I have that same amp. I find that upgrading the power supply to a nicer 3 prong model, like the one linked below, will eliminate all noise and static at higher volumes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get a universal adapter like this and set it to 9v and use the plug that will fit https://www.amazon.com/ZOZO-Regulated-Switching-Replacement-Electronics/dp/B015PXUHYA/ref=sxin_12_ac_m_pm?ac_md=2-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkMTAgYW5kICQxNQ%3D%3D-ac_d_pm&cv_ct_cx=ac+adapter+9v&dchild=1&keywords=ac+adapter+9v&pd_rd_i=B015PXUHYA&...
If you aren't sure how to use those power supplies, then those are probably not the best place for you to start, since it involves some mains voltage wiring.
You'd probably be more comfortable with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-100-240V-Converter-Transformer-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B07MXXXBV8/
That's a 12v, 10 amp power supply - with the mains wiring all hidden away safely. It even comes with an adapter to go to screw terminals, where you just wire positive to positive and negative to negative on your RAMPS board.
I use this,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PXUHYA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Kindle 1's do not charge by usb.
ALITOVE AC 100-240V to DC 12V 10A Power Supply Adapter Converter Transformer 12 Volt 10 Amp 120W with 5.5mm x 2.5mm 2.1mm DC Output Jack for 5050 3528 LED Strip Light CCTV Cameras 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXXXBV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_76XG34QS58MYH9J5BPPB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Used one of these. Just ran the power wires from the unit to the adapter that this comes with. Super simple, and works very well.
That is incredibly dumb, and also fairly awful.
You're looking at buying something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/
On the vibrator, there should be "DC Input" and a corresponding #V. That'll be the voltage input. That's the number you'll need to select on the charger you buy.
It wouldn't be a polarity problem, but it may be a voltage issue. The original adaptor may only have been rated for 120VAC 60HZ and Australia is 240V, 50Hz. It's likely an issue with the AC adaptor or the travel adapter. Was this the first time you used it or did it break after using the travel adaptor?
The KP3 is powered from 12V DC, 700mA. You can probably find a universal 12V DC adapter rated for a least 700mA (~10Watts) at the Australian equivalent of Best Buy (or Amazon) that has all the common types of DC barrel plugs. Find the right one and see if a new adaptor fixes it. The one I linked from Amazon will work for 100-240VAC 50/60HZ input. I can't quickly find any with the AU plug, but it may just be because I'm on the US site.
Do you mean if plugged into a vertical outlet it is horizontal? If so.
TMEZON 12 Volt 2A Power Adapter Supply AC to DC 2.1mm X 5.5mm Plug 12v 2 Amp Power Supply, Wall Plug Extra Long 8 Foot Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q2E5IXW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DFB1WYAVXEVMDGXAXC2X
No, you don't want to use something like that. A battery trickle charger has lots of circuitry to try to detect the state of the battery and will probably freak out. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-100-240V-Converter-Transformer-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B07MXXXBV8 would be good but you would have to cut the head off and connect the wires to the stereo harness. Obviously electricity is dangerous so be careful, if you don't feel comfortable with the idea, then don't do it .... But really, it is just 2 wires, don't let them touch, maybe use a fuse etc, be careful .... If you can hook up the stereo to the car, this shouldn't be too hard.
The problem is that you have a 2 amp, 12 volt power supply for the strip. The "wall wart" plug in thing is the power supply. Getting something like this 12 volt, 6 amp power supply supply will clear up the problem.
For #3 you can also buy a 12v 4pin molex AC adapter to power your pump for testing. Sometimes they come with external hard drives. They are inexpensive and can be useful for other things like LED strips for a display case.
LED work on DC( except for AC LEDs). Your LED strips need to have a intermediate driver (Ac to DC convert with step down voltage to 12V)
Your solution is use power adaptor from 240V AC to 12V DC
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-100-240V-Transformers-Switching-Adaptor/dp/B019Q3U72M
You can connect LED strip to the edge of this adaptor. Only thing is check you have enough current capacity in the picked adaptor ( based on number of LEDs in the strip)
> Since it arrived, i've been trying to find a power supply that fits it, but I can't find one.
That's unusual. 9v jacks are fairly standardized…
Current draw is minimal, so you don't have to sweat that. 9VDC center-negative is the most common adapter there is, and there are a lot of options on Amazon. First one that pops up is a Planet Waves for 9 bucks. That should work just fine for you.
I’d suggest buying an ac/dc adapter with a variety of standard plugs like this Universal AC Adapter, ZOZO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PXUHYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3pChFbES8AN1Q Look for the voltage on battery or vacuum and choose the plug that fits. If you know what size and voltage you might find one at thrift stores like Goodwill.
You can get a known brand Kastar 12v 6a adapter for $11.99 on Amazon so you know Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W, Tip Size 5.52.5mm for LCD Monitor, LCD TV, 5050 3528 5630 LED Strip Light, Tape Light, Rope Light, Wireless Router, ADSL Cats, Security Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EXI9EbG5R09C9 save a few bucks and it’s a good brand
You should be able to find a universal adapter that works. Like this one Amazon Link
Pretty sure the screens run on 12 volts like the Gamecube does.
this cable is in no way specialized, especially not for wifi. You can get any universal adapter (something like this one), as long as it accepts 110V input (which will be nearly all of them sold in your country) and outputs 12V (most of them have a way to set the output voltage). The output amperage should be equal to or higher than 2A.
You have not shown the barrel plug, but i highly suspect it's the wildly common one. So there's a good chance that you have a compatible adapter in your home already, for some small electronics appliance. as long as the voltage matches, the amperage is not smaller and the connector fits, you're good to go.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MXXXBV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is what I bought. The barrel looks small to me but i used a digital caliper and the female receiver measures 5.8mm so im sure it will fit.
I've run Molex power from my PC to this one and control speed with a manual speed control, but for power you could use something simple like this.
The problem there is that it won't turn on and off with your PC. It's not hard to make power and/or PWM wires to run directly from your PC to an external hub - making it look good can be though.
This is another option. It provides external power connectors via a PCI slot and connects directly to your PC's PSU.
I was planning on sticking a spare quadro on the pump block probably and running their 5pin-to-USB-A to the PC. I can splice an extension on if I need it longer.
I'll use an external AC->DC 12V 5A molex to power the quadro.
So I'll use USB-A for control and a wall plug for power and I don't have to worry about passing any cables through the case. At least, thats my plan. I need power and control for the fans anyway, I figure the quadro pwm plugs will be 4fans+pump+pump.
make sure its not the power supply. Its a known issue with these and I believe I had similar symptoms.
This is what I got last April and have been fine ever since.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2E5IXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
as for a replacement, I saw the same thing with the USG OOS. Maybe I'll go Firewalla or something else Ubiquiti like a dream router or similar
You need the USB to connect it to your computer and a 12 volt 2.5mm center tip positive power source to power the cooler. Something like this which is what I use to power my camera and mount: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXXXBV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Z9Q6T1RW70DH43SVYAZF
You could use a regular extension cable to move it away from your house, and that’s worked good for me. I’ve ran a cable probably 40-50 feet without issues.
One note on the power, you need a guitar pedal specific power supply, which have center/tip negative polarity. Normal 9V power supplies meant for electronics will likely fry it.
That could be something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/DAddario-PW-CT-9V-Power-Adapter-Sleeve-Positive/dp/B00191WVF6/ref=sr_1_4
Or like this if you want to get more pedals in the future:
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/1SpotComboPk--truetone-1-spot-combo-pack
Your local guitar store should these as well.
https://www.amazon.com/110v-Power-Supply-Molex-5000mA/dp/B002TJNDU4
3.5" drives power directly off USB, and fun fact, most USB floppy drives can't read old disks properly anyway.
You'd probably be best off getting a universal switchable power supply. Something like this except for the EU market: https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG
Yeah I thought this was the problem because I was using some random power supply i had lying around first, but I now bought this; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00191WVF6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Is this power supply fine?
You will also need a Molex Power Supply if you go this route
Offer $50 to all of these used ones and see who accepts. Once she gets familiar with it and decides she needs other features, you can sell it for $50+.
Dont forget a power supply and extra instrument cable.
Thank you so much! Most helpful comment yet! Also a very amateur question, but is a 12v wall power supply interchangeable with a 3s lipo in this scenario? Thanks again