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Shit isn't rated that well though https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527617129&sr=8-5&keywords=BLACK+2.0
Almost everybody is saying it's not drying all that black. The pictures show clearly visible edges. Doesn't look great.
since vantablack isn't a commercially available product in any way, and has ridiculous handling restrictions due to being something much like asbestos for your lungs, try Black 2.0 made specifically to be the best alternative, until Black 3.0 is developed.
Please don't buy the pad I use, it's not designed for watercolors. Here's one of my watercolor sets, you can buy it on amazon. As for a pad, just buy any watercolor pad and you should be good to go. Good luck!
Winsor and Newton is one of the most reputable brands, used by many professionals. I highly recommend their starting pallet, it's what I first used and is very affordable.
Amazon Link: Winsor & Newton Cotman Water Colour Sketchers Pocket Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004THXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wkokzb8B7G5BC
No! Never! Such dark secrets are mine, and I shall never betray my proprietary secret of buying 'distress crackle paint' off amazon and using that.
Any recommendations in particular? https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Barrel-Acrylic-PROMOABI-Assorted/dp/B00ATJSD8I/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Acryllic+paint&qid=1623160244&sr=8-2 Maybe this? (Sorry for all the questions! I've been struggling with this for months
I've used this with multiple paint brands with no issue,
Oh no! I would call those hobby paints as they are formulated and packagedfor a specific use. By craft paints i mean the 12oz squeeze bottles with the flip top(typically) that they sell at craft stores for $1-3... usually associated with cheap DIY crafting.
Oh no! I hope you get some heat soon. That’s terrible.
My favorite hobby right now is watercolor painting. I just want to paint everything! Here is a Paint Set that I don’t currently have. Thanks for a contest and stay warm!
Tamiya's are better to stir, they can really get chunky and have all the pigment sit at the bottom. Do yourself a favor and get something like the badger paint mixer. 10 or so seconds and you're done.
I just sprayed with titanium silver two days ago, and mine looked exactly like that when I opened it, but quick mix and it's the silver you're looking for. Long story short, you're going to have to thoroughly mix all your paints.
I used their airbrush flow improver, just a tiny amount though, you don't want to overdo it. And in some cases, I didn't need to use any at all.
Try mixing it with a strong stick (back of a big brush). As others have mentioned, that is suppose to be a dry paint, but there should be some liquid left at the bottom of the pot.
If that doesn't work, you could get a mechanical mixer. Note, the link is an example, that is a horrible price. Its basically a milk frother with a smaller mixing head.
In the absolute worst case, Ninjon had a video where he revitalized dried out pant by mixing it with a Matt medium.
You need some Matte finish to spray on top. Definitely did not mix the paint well enough though, I use a paint shaker like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/403423562605?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=0s3NZ9fmQle&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=FzBb2hFETuq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Then a paint stirrer/mixer like this: it’s had the same batteries in it for ten years lol https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-121-Paint/dp/B000BROV02/ref=asc_df_B000BROV02?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80745502739797&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-...
They probably aren't 616 steel bearings in there.
Vortex mixers are great, but they still have issues mixing chalky paints like most of the white pigments GW produces.
The best item you can buy to mix your paint if you are using paint pots is a badger mixer.
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-121-Paint/dp/B000BROV02
Twenty bucks and it will mix your paints better than any other device we've ever used. Including making chalky paints look like they should. We've stopped using our indutrial vortex mixer because it just works better.
So is the issue with it not fitting the width or is it the height. I say this because the difference between the 2016 and 2032 is the height, the 16 denotes that it is 1.6mm vs a 2032 which is 3.2mm. A standard base has just around ~2mm base inside height, so the 2016 should work. The only time they don't work is when the base has a nub or something inside that increases the height, which you may have to sand down. All 2016 and 2032 are standard sizes as well, so any brand will end up being the same size. Another option for you is the cr1620. now this is a tad taller but width-wise is smaller, depending on your issue.
For what I did, I used a clear rod with a red led. If you are trying to go red acrylic, just be aware that light may not pass through it as well, if that is what you are trying to do. For all the smaller sizes, you can really only find clear rods; which I wonder if they just paint the clear rods red? So if you do want to make it a red rod, I would suggest using a clear rod and painting over it with a semitransparent paint. Something like this should work, https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Acrylic-X27-Gloss-Clear/dp/B00TT856HG/ref=sr_1_2.
So, you need this item to stir citadel white paints effectively.
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Agitator balls do not work with de-clumping the white citadel paints effectively. We've found this little badger paint mixer works better than our heavy duty vortex mixing machine for these paints.
We've moved over 3,500 citadel paints to dropper bottles and white paints are always an issue. The badger mixer is the best solution we've found for this particular issue. Also, adding a little flow improver will tremendously help.
For basing an arctic scheme, there are a couple of materials that might be of interest:
Holtz Distress crackle paint is great for cracked ice. It develops cracks as it dries, and it dries perfectly clear. If you want color to your ice, it can be primed and painted, or if you want to preserve the transparency, you can prime with a matte varnish and use inks to color it. (I bet that new Pylar Glacier contrast paint would look good, too.)
For snow, I like to create a mix of water, PVA/white glue, and baking soda/sodium bicarbonate, and apply it with a brush or other tool. As it dries, the grainy consistency of the baking soda will show through, and it gives the appearance of white, fluffy snowdrifts. The paste can be applied as thin or this as you like, or layered if you want more volume after a first coat. Once dried, it becomes absorbent, and can be colored with washes - useful if you want to make some of it look muddy and trodden, or bloodied. It seems to take varnish well as well.
For sure! This Winsor & Newton set is a good beginner set. Just remember to mix your own colors in the palette area (don't use them straight from the pan), keep it to like 3 colors in total to start, and leave plenty of the white of the paper as your highlight... let the paper breathe through. Good luck!
This is the best blood paint I have ever found:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TT856HG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get this it works great with Tamiya paints...
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-121-Paint/dp/B000BROV02
Turn it off before you pull it out of the paint jar. Then have a shot glass full of IPA and put it in there and turn it on to clean it off.
11 Nontoxic Miniature Paint... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714QL55V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use these and they work really well.
Nuln oil is only really good for blacks and other dark colors. Earth shade is mostly for browns.
This box, which cost about as much as 2 nuln oils and 2 earthshades gets you a whole range of washes to try.
I know a lot of people swear by citadel paints, but the dropper bottles are much better in my experience. I still buy citadel contrast paints but I don't know any of their normal acrylics.
Personally, I think you got a good pattern of cracks our of your Martian Ironearth, but if you want something more dramatic, I like to use Holtz Distress Crackle Medium in thick coats. Do be aware that this does not adhere well to plastic, so I find that letting some superglue flow into the cracks after it has dried gives a good bond. Applying the medium over a layer of wet PVA/white glue also helps with adhesion, and produces even more dramatic cracks. (As the medium dries, it the surface shrinks, constricting the wet medium beneath and producing cracks. The PVA will pool in some areas and even come to the surface as the shrinking medium forces it out, leaving wide crevices once the PVA dries.)
put wood screws through planks of wood, paint it with this, tie fishing line to one end for quick retrieval from a distance. Place them where they usually drive and hide in some bushed and wait for the show.
Welcome. To avoid clogs in the future, you can add some flow retarder to the paint (just a single drop for the entire collector cup and mix it up).
There's also a technique that takes a bit to master where you ease up on the paint on the trigger before releasing the air. When you don't do this it causes the paint to dry on the needle too quick and causes more clogs. I haven't mastered this yet, but since I started trying it my clogs have reduced significantly. However, it sounds like you have to isolate the root issue first before attempting this technique.
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ70597-Acrylic-Paint-Retarder/dp/B000PH9JP0
Get some of that and use it when edge highlighting. It will stop the paint from drying as quickly on the drush.
Also, you need to go black and clean up the highlighters with the base colour afterwards.
I loooovveee watching paint mix!
The tool I am using is this. It is usually used on those little Testors' bottles of paint, but it works PERFECT for the 2 oz cups I usually mix in.
The pearl powder, I'm not 100% sure it actually has a brand? I have had it for like 6 years, but I am fairly sure it is just the one from Hobby Lobby in the aisle with the soap and clay. This one isn't the Pearl-Ex brand, but those are great too and I use them all the time.
Typically when I mix the mica powders, I am doing them in pours, so I will just mix it in a bit of the pouring medium to get clumps out then add any paint color. If you want to use mica to make a paint that you use brushes with , yeah, I would mix it with an acrylic medium (gel medium for thicker paints, liquid medium for thinner). If you are mixing the mica with an already existing acrylic paint, the binder in it will be enough.
I actually did a mica and interference mixing series on my channel if you are interested! Here is the playlist for it!
I use this mixer, and haven't had any issues with it.
there are transparent acrylic paints that have been developed for just such purposes.
to me it looks like tamiya clear red x-27
This is the stuff I used: Ranger TDC31888 Tim Holtz Distress Crackle Paint 4 oz Jar, Clear Rock Candy https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005FY5HCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BY18W8TNYNJKQ0294E44?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> Sorry to bother you but what is a wash?
A wash is a very thin ink, rather than a paint. It's very different than a primer. Inks, unlike paints, are translucent. When placed over a paint they provide tint. They also have very little surface tension, so they naturally flow into recesses and crevices, where they pool up and provide a deeper tint. The best part is they require almost no skill to apply -- they're called "washes" because you literally wash the model with them, just loading up a brush and slathering it on.
These two models really illustrate the power of washes. These models have been base coated white and then washed with a Flesh Wash, a reddish-brown color. As you can see, the wash has naturally flowed into the recesses of the model, while leaving only the barest tint on the raised surfaces. This gives instant contrast and highlights.
If you're new to painting, do yourself a favor and pick up a full set of Army Painter washes, or at a minimum the Soft, Strong and Dark Tones.