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Automotive Engine Mechanics books:
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The best of Automotive Engine Mechanics books by number of unique Reddit comments:
![Design and Simulation of Four Stroke Engines [R-186]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41i6E0PcCWL._SL500_.jpg)
Top Reddit reviews mentioning Automotive Engine Mechanics books:
Everything I will say comes from personal experience, which isn't transferrable, and reading books like Lee Parks' Total Control.
According to his advice, to brake even in the most controlled situations, you should apply the rear brake before the front brake. This maximizes braking AND grip, avoiding accidents such as yours.
From experience, if something undesired happened and you don't know what you did wrong, it's very likely you have done something wrong, and being conscious about it and trying to figure it out is a great symptom that you care and want to improve to not do it again.
Maybe your mind wandered a bit and you hit the brakes just a bit harder than you think. The street conditions you describe are worse than pouring rain, because the drizzle mixes with dust and oils in the tarmac making it very slippery. Heavy rain washes all that residue faster.
I'd give lee parks' book a shot, you will learn the technical aspects of why your accident actually happened and the correct technique to avoid it.
Drive safe, and heal soon!
Sign up for a CHP riding course. Start reading https://www.amazon.com/dp/0760343446/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_3K0PQDXHGP8PYN3N1XDF
Ride on empty back streets with no cars. After you start getting more confident, you can graduate to busier streets. Take a break and relax. Don't force yourself to ride. You should feel confident and clear minded before getting on.
Your carb should be half of a quadrajet:
https://cliffshighperformance.com/product/how-to-rebuild-and-modify-rochester-quadrajet-carburetors
They might have the parts you'll want too, I think, though they don't list dualjet parts.
This book was helpful too:
https://www.amazon.com/Rochester-Carburetors-Revised-Doug-Roe/dp/0895863014
yes indeed about the suspension! And actually i already have a book that is well reviewed in my amazon Shopping Cart that i can't wait to get my hands on.
https://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Your-Car-Handle/dp/0912656468/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
If you're working on turbo engines and you want to modify them, try reading this;
It's very simple, accessible and will give you more than you'll need to know for a long time.
Coming from someone who is very into cars and hungry to learn about them, this book was recently referred to me.
Maximum Boost was a pretty good read on turbo chargers. It goes into a reasonable amount of detail without being unattainable to the average Joe.
I'd love to find something similar for suspension work, myself.
Google mechanic, I’ve been building performance engines and dyno tuning for 20 years. It’s not what google tells me it’s what physics tells everyone, those pipes have essentially no flow after the valve closes and what does physics say about that? The slow gas velocity is under a higher pressure, about 14.7psi of back pressure. Back pressure impedes flow and can even push exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber as well as the fresh intake out into the air cleaner. Read a book https://www.amazon.com.au/Scientific-Exhaust-Systems-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837603099/ref=asc_df_0837603099/?tag=googleshopmob-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341743770390&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7050728797150919472&hvpone=&...
Definitely not video-based, but I would highly recommend the books Beast and The Unfair Advantage.
I think you'll find head positioning is guided by where your looking which is absolutely key. You want to be looking where you want to end up and if that involves moving your head then you should be doing that.
His head turned to focus round the corner to the furthest point he can see, tilted to level view against lean and while he's not at an extreme position his head is just about on the centerline.
Have you tried reading? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Total-Control-Performance-Street-Techniques/dp/0760343446 which will explain the body positioning and the reasons why it works.
Not Subaru specific, but Greg Banish's Engine Management Advanced Tuning book is a great starting point. I would also recommend learning about engines (in general), Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals is another staple to get started. You can find many online resources by searching for FSAE <topic>, like FSAE Intake Manifold, or FSAE Exhaust.
“Beast”, about the Ilmor engine that was run in the Indy 500, is excellent. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Beast-Secret-Ilmor-Penske-Engine-Shocked/dp/1642340103/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=beast+penske&qid=1633586988&qsid=260-3486682-4676060&s=books&sr=1-1&sres=1642340103%2CB00NYJHVTC
No, an airbox is still useful. The reason is not ram air, which really is a negligible effect until you get to quite high speeds, but rather the Helmholtz effect. If you read about intake design and optimization, the Helmholtz resonance effect can be exploited to increase the amount of air relative to the RPM of the engine. Since we now have a compressor in front of the intake manifold, the resonance becomes a multiple of compressor speed and pulsing.
The compressor still faces backpressure from the intake manifold which will cause it pulse similarly to an NA engine's backpressure (or rather decrease in negative pressure, less negative) in the intake.
Here's a good read:
https://www.amazon.com/Scientific-Exhaust-Systems-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837603099/
This ones a little pricy but it's a college level book diving into basically everything when it comes to an engine https://www.amazon.com/Engineering-Fundamentals-Internal-Combustion-Engine/dp/0131405705 I've been reading it lately and it's been very interesting at how much detail there is.
while its not specific to automotive engines I work in the engine industry and "Heywood" is considered to be a good book to start with
https://www.amazon.com/Internal-Combustion-Engine-Fundamentals-Heywood/dp/007028637X
After that youll start to narrow your field into something more specific - emissions, performance, etc... its too broad of a field to be covered by one book in any detail.
I will defer to /u/ViperThreat.
I will say is that having a professional watching you in-person and giving you instruction is always going to be the best way to learn. They'll be able to catch things that you're doing wrong and help you reinforce what you're doing right.
If you're a fan of reading, I suggest checking out Lee Park's Total Control. It will help contextualize a lot the things that you'll learn either on your own or from others.
Read the whole comment again. Key words are "not the same." Again, you need to reference the compressor wheel flow ratings, peak flow capacity, and turbine wheel size vs housing size. The flow chart will show you where in the power band will be vs max boost.
Figure out your goals vs what hp your engine can handle, and get a forced induction unit sized to your goals.
There's an excellent book for those who are just starting out: https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606
No no. Of course not. Like others have said, you’re not going fast enough on the street to be able to hang off that much. Not enough centrifugal force and such. But a little butt slide off and leaning definitely helps on street level riding. Going 60 km around a corner, you also need less weight shifted off Center to achieve optimal tire contact and lean angel. If you’re taking that same turn at 130km you obviously need to move more weight off center, hence more exaggerated “track” shape. But the steps and things you move are the same.
On the street you should open your hips when you turn a corner, slide off the seat a little, etc etc. How much all depends on speed and degree of the corner. I think most people here can agree on that.
This is the best book about performance riding on the street. There’s also a course he runs as well. Highly recommended.
First, octane rating has nothing to do with the gas volatility. You can have 87 winter blend that is more volatile than 87 summer blend. Volatility and octane are two completely separate values that have no relation to each other. You need to get that right before we can move on.
Also, knock is the colloquial term for detonation, which surprisingly you are correct. It's when the gas detonates before the spark event and creates much higher pressure in the cylinder. It can sometimes be heard as an audible "knock" in certain engines. It more often is unable to be heard without special monitoring equipment.
Last, as I said before, static compression is just one factor out of many that determines what the engine's octane requirement is. I'll give you a real world example. My 1972 Sportster has a static compression ratio of 9:1 and needs a minimum of 94 AKI to not detonate. My 2002 Sportster has a static compression of 10.5:1 and will run perfectly fine on 91 AKI.
By your simple, misunderstood statements the 2002 should be blowing up compared to my 72. The real answer is that octane and compression can be related, but compression is only one small factor in determining that. There are several other things that are far more dominating in determining the required octane.
If you would like to learn more about this so we can speak intelligently about it, please pick up a copy of John Heywood's Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals (https://smile.amazon.com/Internal-Combustion-Engine-Fundamentals-Heywood/dp/007028637X?sa-no-redirect=1) and read it cover to cover. It will go over a lot of things you're misunderstanding and help you clarify some of your thoughts.
How did you guys learn car mechanics, aka how suspension, brakes, diff and other stuff works? I want to learn it so I can be a more complete driver. I am on the edge of buying this book
https://www.amazon.com/Chassis-Engineering-Building-Performance-Handling/dp/1557880557
and it looks promising, although hearing other opinions does not hurt.
Edit: I am a sim racer.
Rollover from last week:
>How did you guys learn car mechanics, aka how suspension, brakes, diff and other stuff works? I want to learn it so I can be a more complete driver. I am on the edge of buying this book https://www.amazon.com/Chassis-Engineering-Building-Performance-Handling/dp/1557880557 and it looks promising, although hearing other opinions does not hurt.
Edit: I am a sim racer.
by u/MusaDoVerao2017
It would be pointless (and inaccurate) to not include the pump work from the additional turbo when finding the thermal efficiency of a turbocharged engine.
https://www.amazon.com/Engineering-Fundamentals-Internal-Combustion-Engine/dp/0131405705
My source.
Your carburetor number decodes to a 1977 engine, not a '91. GM stopped using carburetor on all small block passenger cars and light trucks prior to 1991.
A Q-jet that runs rich all the time usually has leaky primary and/or secondary well plugs. This problem can be fixed with $5 worth of JB Weld and 15 minutes of your time.
I also strongly recommend you buy and read the book Rochester Carburetors by Doug Roe. That book has all the info you'll ever need about "modern" Rochester carburetors.
These two books are a great place to start.
The first book goes over some of the basic stuff like what each sensor does and the overall process of tuning. The second book goes a bit more in-depth and discusses things like how to properly create your base fueling/efficiency map, why injector characterization is so important, why running E85 is beneficial in certain applications, etc.
Other than sitting in on dyno tuning sessions or asking questions to the engine lead, I found these two books one of the best sources of info.
Heywood So you understand the physics of an engine. The text is getting a little old and dated, but it's still pretty much the calibration bible.
MegaManual very good guide on how to work with an engine controller and get an engine running. Some of the things presented are a little ghetto but they are generally very good.
If you read Heywood too you should be in a good position to understand why some of the things in the megamanual are not 100% correct.
The Banish books posted are fundamentally correct but tend to be content lacking. Even more so for an engineer.
Could I tell you how much HP it makes from a photo? No. But I can tell you the most powerful passenger car (Corvette) 350 made 210HP in 1976. The generic 2 barrel carb passenger car 350 made 145HP. A 4bbl 350 in a truck probably made 180HP when new.
The stalling/stumbling when cold is almost certainly a choke problem. Pick up the book "ROCHESTER CARBURETORS" by Doug Roe.
ROCHESTER CARBURETORS by DOUG ROE on Amazon.
It will tell more than you ever wanted to know about how to repair your carb and a bunch of other carbs.
Also, rebuild your trans. It's not that hard. It will look intimidating when you disassemble it, but it's not difficult to rebuild these transmissions. Here's a tutorial.
Replace your clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, throwout/release bearing, pilot bearing (use a roller pilot from a 6.5 diesel or an aftermarket roller pilot bearing), release arm/fork and pivot ball when you install your freshly rebuilt trans. All of this stuff is still available and it's not terribly expensive.
Please update us with progress reports.
Great book, just reading it now. It covers everything you need to know.
These are the two Banish books I'm most familiar with: Engine Management: Advanced Tuning, Designing and Tuning High Performance Fuel Injection Systems. They're pretty similar but the main difference is obvious from the title: the former is just tuning with a little bit of hardware and the second is about half and half hardware and tuning.
I try to remember that the RPi isn't really targeted at hobbyists, it's really an educational board. There are definitely better options if you're willing to give up the support and community. The Banana Pi is looking pretty good as well as the whole ODROID line. Since I'm not a coding guy I would probably be running a tuning PC program hence the requirement of x86.