The best Automotive Paints & Primers: Reddit reviews

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

For anyone who wants to have a non lethal go at this: witness.

I tried it. It still kinda sucks but I didn't have to call poison control.

If it's a small scratch, I've heard this works well. Personally though, I'd wait a bit until you are more used to the dimensions of the car. It will very likely happen again.

This ^ Rust-Oleum 260510 Automotive 2 In 1 Filler and Sandable Primer Spray Paint, 12 oz, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZLQ4HQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qD7gFb441PTMW Do a few layers of this and then sand it down.. this stuff is made to be sanded

I read on several forums that this is a perfect match. I ordered, but haven't actually used it yet, so I can't give you my personal endorsement.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need to get some legal paperwork in place that can secure not only your current and future medical care in your partners name, but that also explicitly excludes your mom.

If you do get another dog, service or other, get it microchipped and add in the coding that noone but you or partner are to make medical choices. At least its some attempt of control.

Also, hopefully this gives your a smile. Since everyone needs a chance on the fury road. https://www.amazon.ca/Wilton-710-5521-Silver-Color-Mist/dp/B005KTVG86

I used a Dremel to smooth out the spot, 4 coats of paint and one of the sealant listed below. Very easy and looks good.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECOlDb09DPAAS

That more or less happens to everyone. The car is wider than any of us are used to by a few inches and the tire itself doesn't stick out... it's really common. But I feel your pain... I did the same thing within the first month when I got the car and I was totally deflated over it too.

You could take it to a body shop - which will likely cost $50-150. Or - since you are likely to do it again - you could just do the poor man's fast fix method which passes the 10ft test (if you look from 10ft or so away, it looks fine) by buying this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE66OK8

For best results, use some sandpaper to sand the area flat, and then shake it well and apply... but I never do the sandpaper thing any more. It's not a perfect match - it's slightly too dark - but it is very close. think I've scratched my rims about 6-8 times over my 29 months of ownership (Feb. 2018 to now). I just go out now and again and touch them up... they look ok as long as you don't look too closely.

This *might* work. If possible, disassemble the red piece from said pokeball (also, release any pokemon living inside). Use denatured alcohol and a soft rag to slowly remove the red coating. No coarse materials or the chrome is destroyed. Underneath is a vacuum chromed coating that will hopefully stand up to this. Next, without touching with your bare hands, use an adhesion promoter like this. Careful nice light coat or it will run. Finally spray 3 light coats of this. You want one light coat, wait 10 minutes, 2nd coat, wait ten minutes, third coat. Don't handle until the next day (yes, it's tempting). The red paint is very thin so you may want to practice on something like a pepsi can first. If you get runs on the ball you will have to start all over again. Best of luck, and God bless!

Buy some plasti dip in a can, the orginal stuff that you can actually dip the clips into it will give a much thicker coat.

Amazon link

I did it the hard way and borrowed a 5" sander with several discs of sandpaper, so I only spent about $15 for the paint. The 5" sander was way too big to control for such a small area, and in retrospect, it would be way easier if you have a cordless drill and just pick up a 2" or 3" foam disc adapter like this with some pieces of sandpaper. Start with a lower grit like 80, then go over the areas two or three more times with higher grits to make them smooth. Then just clean and touch up with paint.

It may not be 100% perfect doing it yourself, but the paint is a perfect match, and honestly it's a huge waste of money to get this done professionally unless you are super picky.

A primer is used for basically all types of painting, including miniature painting. As a 40k painter myself, I paint a 3d print just like anything else. The difference is during the prep work. For a 3d print you need to do a lot of work to get rid of layer lines if you want to do a highly detailed paint job.

Depending on the print I would use:

Sanding and a lot of time and effort. Start at 120 then 220 then 400 dry. 600 wet typically will leave a good enough finish that primer and painting will cover up. Otherwise continue up to 1000 wet.

filler primer. Just go to a local auto body shop to pick some up, amazon has that specific one marked up by about 200%. Do a lot of sanding before hand. I start at 120 then go to 220 then 400 before spraying. After the first coat I go back with 220. If the print is smooth at this point I would use my model primer, which seems to apply much thinner than the primer filler, and then I would start to paint. Otherwise, do another coat of primer filler and sand again at 220 and repeat until smooth. The only concern is that very small details will get obscured by multiple coats of primer filler.

XTC-3D would be my other quick go to. Use this a few times to get a hang of it. It can obscure fine detail with just one coat if you don't apply it well. After the first coat, the finish isn't completely uniform so sand the issue spots with 220 grit then prime and paint.

I’m an idiot as well and curbed my back rim on the very first day I had the car. I purchased some touch up paint from Amazon for 15 bucks and fixed it myself though. Looks decent enough. Not perfect but you’d never know unless you’re looking at it up close. This paint matches the aeros pretty much spot on:

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/

edit: I see someone else indirectly sent you to the same product. I used it, it’s fine. I’m not paying for professional repair to only do it again. :-) Covering it up works well enough. It stops that annoying/embarrassing strobe effect that you get when you have the bare metal rotating and reflecting..

Never tried wheel bands but I had the same thing happen to me 2 weeks ago and I was realllly pissed at myself. I ended up removing the aerocap, sanding the scratched area(s) with 320 grit, then touch-up painting it with this: Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N092XSG0BAH4M787Y6WG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know if you wanna see how some before/after pics.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought this from amazon and it worked great. Has a coarse end to sand it down and matches perfectly.

If it’s the same color as my 2018 Model 3 LR 18 inch rims, then this is almost exactly the same: Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_STihFbB2KHY4D

Sand it down and use this if you want a cheap fix.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_xMmN4M8AOoyqk

This stuff is great, very hard and a great clear aswell BUT you have to wear a mask or be outside where it's well ventilated. After you coat it (2-3 layers) let it dry for 24-48 hours and then wet sand it with 2000 grit to 3000 grit for a good shine. You could also pick up some wipe on polishfor a truly glossy look.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_506YQX9B9P50BGR0462D

a light coat of sandable filler works nice to get rid of layer lines:

https://smile.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-260510-12-Ounce-Sandable/dp/B006ZLQ4HQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3NLAHN6MVPMOB&dchild=1&keywords=spray+filler+primer+for+plastic&qid=1610924264&sprefix=Spray+filler%2Caps%2C204&sr=8-1

I start at 120 and work to 600. I also use 2 in 1 filler/sandable primer to help really smooth it out.

Tbh, most stuff I don't do all this work for, if I want it to look real nice I just print at smaller layer height, but like you said, this mask is pretty big and already a long print. I wasn't about to push it down too low and turn it into a 3day print lol

I think logically it will be susceptible to UV damage on interior of the lense. Headlights that still have a yellowish hue to them, even after restoration, are damaged on the inside. I don't see this too often so you should be fine. When the initial clear coat is gone. You have nothing left. You wont necessarily damage it more. But the yellowish fog will slowly introduce itself until you use a clearcoat.

Restore your headlights. Then use a clear coat after.

Ratchets and Wretches did a 3 year test and the 2K Clear Coat has the best result.

Yes but go light as to not burn into the fibers or you will see the surface reflection change in those areas after you clear it.

You might be able to use compressed air to help lift/remove the failing clear coat in any areas that it’s lifting before you start sanded 600grit, wet sand lightly. Just enough to smooth the surface and rough it up for new clear to bond.

Use a 2-stage clear coat. (It’s a curing two part clear) it will last much longer and be tougher You can get it in a activating spray can also , check on amazon for “2k clear coat”

Or: USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol (2 PACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W2D806Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_klHMFbZTE9PGY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

> 2k clear

2-part Clearcoat in a spray can. You pop a container that lets it mix and then you have ~48 hrs use out of it.

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

check the reviews for some decent information and experiences.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r-0kFbWKCNGH7

Perfect color match. Seen and shown on many YouTube videos. Hope that helps buddy

2K clearcoat, two component paint sometimes referred to as urethane paint it’s where you have to mix the paint and the Hardner then spray it with a spraygun and then a chemical reaction cures it rather than “drying” basically car paint, if you have extra stickers I would say slap them on a metal tube and clearcoat it and see what happens I imagine unless your stickers are really low quality they should be fine you can get 2K clearcoat on Amazon once you crack the seal on the bottom you have about 24 hours to use the can before it hardens https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

If they screwed up the paint that bad, you might want to bring it back to base of factory paint. Generally a good 400, then 600 does the job.

Guy down the street said he use a new 2K (two part) spray can system that did an amazing job. I haven't seen it, it's probably the same as this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

Taking the time to bring it back to a good base, helps to insure that it won't have a bad reaction.

Wet sanding with 400 and a flex sanding block works pretty well.

Not anything formally written up, but this is pretty much it: I stain the wood with LMII analine dyes and for this guitar I finished with this stuff, wet sanded up to about 2000-3000 then buffed with polishing compounds. All it really takes is a good piece of figured maple, the dying process doesn't have to be complicated if the wood already looks great. There's all kinds of tutorials on this kind of thing though, I've seen some good stuff on youtube for sure!

If you want a more durable, 2-part clear in a rattle can, try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_C9MNSKYWGMBMWCXEQKAB You'd likely need to have a few projects ready to go. It's like a can within a can, and once the 2 parts mix, the shelf life is very short, and it ain't exactly cheap!

I've been using a product called Axe Wax, a drying wax blend, for a little more natural feel than a clear coat. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081HYYKSJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_YF7SKYXEA724M1S5CYYP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

NOT to be confused with AX WAX, for guitars! 😁

Your stuff is really beautiful!

Looks like the clearcoat has seen better days.

I just bought a can of this after watching some youtube videos of DIY clearcoat.

Haven't tried it yet but you want to consider doing that soon.

So basically, it looks like a regular rattle can, but inside this rattle can is a balloon filled with a chemical. You press down on a button on the bottom of the can, an internal pin pierces the balloon, and then you shake it so that the two chemicals can mix with each other. What you end up with is a two-component mixture similar to what you would have in a professional spray gun. You then have to use the can within a few days.

In regular rattle cans, you can only have single-component paint, since it's premixed from the factory, and a two-component paint would harden inside the can before you use the product. The two-component paint (or clearcoat) should form a significantly harder surface, that can be polished or sanded a lot better.