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Obligatory not my car but I’ve been seriously considering a Chevy SS.
This ~$20 part and a few minutes work disables the factory 1-4 skip shift without throwing codes
> no one sells this kind of option
uhhh Hella Supertones come with a relay in the box. I did mine with some wire and crimp on spade connectors, but they sell cheap relay blocks on Amazon as well. It's not hard to do; I installed my horns on their own circuit controlled by a relay off the existing horn circuit.
Haha, sorry.. I tried to put it into English best I could. I spend so much time using industry jargon, I forget what is and isn’t sometimes..
Yeah, an external charger would be good. A charge controller is good to have in any system. They’re usually hooked to solar or some other means of charging though, mainly to prevent overcharging. Stock van alts wouldn’t be able to recharge a 200ah battery. I’d recommend something like this as a catch-all solution if it fits within budget. You may not need it’s full recharging potential, but it’s good to have (you would need AC power to connect). I’ve worked with NOCO professionally before, and actually own that charger personally. Good company, good products.
Alas, that ship has sailed for me. It’s okay though..I live vicariously through YouTube and podcasts now lol.
I think these are them:
Hella dual tone Very very loud but does push near the max amps of the circuit.
I bought these in 2017. People have heard me since.
Should be able to see them in front of my radiators here. Left side grill slots.
Get yourself a set of the PIAA 85115 horns. They are a lower, louder tone than typical horns and really grab people's attention.
Bought the horns off of Amazon then I used some extra wire and fixtures that were laying around the garage! I'll put a link to the horn set I bought. But this is my 2016 crosstrek that's I've owned for about two months and I love it! HELLA (3AG 003 399-801) Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Hp6WAbFFJ7W96
I hate how most aftermarket horns are loud but sound "whiny" instead of authoritative. I think it's an asian market thing.
I spent the cash on these guys and have been very happy with them.
I used this adapter to add this horn. Mounting the second new horn in the engine bay was very difficult but I found a place and it is SO worth it. The stock horn is comical at best!
Yes. I have a AEM AFR Gauge setup with alligator clips to connect to the battery and a bracket for the gauge to mount via a handlebar clamp.
I'll disagree on the needing a dyno to make it worth it. However I will say using a AFR gauge on a carbureted bike on the street to tune it, does have a learning curve.
I've done lots of dyno tuning. More often than not with the AFR gauge and test rides, I can get the bike dialed in to the point where the only tweaking we might be doing on the dyno should we put it up on it is a little timing adjustment. I use the AFR gauge to shift the bulk of the tuning to me vs having it all done on the dyno.
I used this one by Hella. It fits the opening almost perfectly. I think we welded a small tab to mount it. No more rolling fuses to troubleshoot. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VU9D20/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good to know, thank you! I assumed it was fine, but many times when I assume......... hahaha
I was reading too that lower the amps on the charger, the better it is for the battery. So i was originally stuck between a 1 or 2 amp charger. But I'm liking this 10amp, where i can also charge my mower battery. Two 2amp units or one 10amp, I'm thinking.... camelcamelcamel dot com shows there is usually a large price dip between black Friday and November 30, so I'll try to snag them then!
NOCO GENIUS10, 10-Amp Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Portable Automotive Car Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3QT226
> Ahhh. So is the battery bad or did something get really screwed up? 🤔
The 12v Battery is likely bad. Every time a 12v battery dies it undergoes sulfation which prevents the 12v from attaining it's maximum charge again. This also happens slowly overtime through normal wear.
However... some sulfation is reversible. You could buy a NOCO GENIUS10, 10-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation or the 5 Amp Version and use the repair function in an attempt to repair the 12v and get it to hold a higher state aof charge. This may or may not work but I can personally attest to it repairing a 12v I own.
If you are going to run the Prius defrost in the future... put the Prius in READY. The 12v won't charge without the Prius in READY. it's basically like doing the same thing anyways... you have a Hybrid Battery for a reason.
When in doubt, follow Jim’s advice
Install this past the merge point on your exhaust pipe and it will remove all the guess work.
You don't know for sure until you get a fuel/air ratio gauge on there. Or until you burn a hole in a piston running lean at freeway speeds.
You also need to spend about $40 at an independent muffler shop so they can drill a hole in your exhaust after the merge point and weld in that threaded sensor bung it comes with. Be sure and take the bung to a hardware store and get a bolt that fits in there first.
You'll basically do a duct-tape install of the whole setup because you can't shorten the sensor cable without throwing the calibration off. Drive around at different speeds and see what your jetting is really set at.
Once you're done, take it all out and box it up, and use that bolt to seal the exhaust until next time you need to check or tune your jetting.
You CAN do a permanent install but you'll need a waterproof gauge housing and you'll need to hide the extra cable somewhere. But, if you add any kind of dial adjustable jetting to compensate for altitude on the fly, the gauge rocks.
Anyways. This is how you seriously check jetting. You want a 14.7:1 ratio at idle through cruise, 12.8:1 at hard acceleration.
It wasnt too bad, most difficult thing was cutting the connector off of the old horn so I could reuse it. I put this kit in https://www.amazon.ca/HELLA-007424801-Twin-Trumpet-Bracket/dp/B000COBK8A/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=hella+horns&qid=1659633940&sprefix=hella+%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-8 and used a weatherproof relay instead of the one that came with the horns.
If you want to try to save some money but no gurantees this will work... you can get yourself a NOCO GENIUS10, 10-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation or 5 Amp Version and use the repair function to attempt to reverse sulfation in the battery.
You can do this at the jump points under the hood.... but again... no gurantess this will work.
You probably need to connect a smart charger to the battery and charge it over the weekend.. Depending on how much or how long you drive will regulate how much you need to charge the 12V Battery..
I have to charge my wife's 12v every 6 to 8 weeks as she does not drive very far or long.. Maybe 5 to 10 miles a week..
Here is a great charger > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W3QT226
THIS - since COVID and dramatically reduced excursions, I've wired my E39 with a charging plug direct at the battery for my Noco Genius 10 and set a calendar reminder for every 3 months to charge it over the weekend.
Also I have an extra OralB toothbrush charger that I use for my key as well.
All of this typically coincides with Water & Air filter weekend
Here you go.
HELLA 007424801 Twin Trumpet High/Low Tone 12V Horn Kit with Bracket, Red
Diffacutly wasnt too bad, but it does require a bit of work. First, i had to remove the front left tire and the lining to get to the horn. Then i had to make a new wiring harness for both horns. I also had to figure out a way to mouth both horns on a bracket that was only designed to mount a single horn. Truth be told, i wish the mount was more secure. But it works.
Here are some pics of the mounting, if that helps.
I'm a fan of AEM UEGO gauges, they never need calibrated and in my experience are extremely reliable.
I tried an innovate wideband in my car and it was endless trouble. Constantly ate sensors and needed calibration, frequent errors. Total pain. Had 2 aems now and both were flawless.
They were $150 a year ago, stupid inflation
AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VGPYS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_YVTJ1XZ78C6PXYST02XD
I bought the PIAA Superior bass horns because I wanted something as low note as possible. These are 330Hz and 400Hz and I definitely recommend them!
The tough part was finding a good place to mount them, I ended up making a custom bracket and bolted it to the metal on the side edge of my radiator. I reused the hot wire from the stock horn and grounded the horns directly to the body.
I bought a Noco Genius charger. Once this little batter is charge up it can sit for months and still be good when you need to boost your battery. It also can be used to charge your phone. It is small and I never expected to use it until the day I left my lights on at the airport. I had to use my key to get into the car because there was no power to open my doors. I popped the hood and hooked up the charger and the car fired up. It is simple to use and it stays charged for at least 6 months or longer. You would never guess that something so small packs a wallop. Under $100 I highly recommend this charger. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS10-Fully-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B07W3QT226/ref=sr_1_51?keywords=generator+battery+charger&qid=1648353735&sr=8-51
I use this one but you could get one with less amperage if you feel like you wont ever need to charge it faster. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS10-Fully-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B07W3QT226/ref=sr\_1\_7?crid=2JV63I5DGMCYM&keywords=trickle+charger&qid=1647367649&sprefix=trickle+charger%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-7
You can make it work with a relay and inline fuse, I installed this upgrade kit and the horn is now properly loud.
> However, I didn't turn the car on, just the battery. (Power button no brake pedal) When I got back to my car to leave it wouldn't turn over.
Ummm... what's your rationale for this warming up the car? This doesn't warm up anything. Just powers on 12v accessories.
1-click = Accessory mode, so basically just the radio and display come on.
2-clicks = Ignition On mode, which powers up most electronics including the computers for the HV Battery, but doesn't actually engage the battery contacts that deliver high voltage to the system . The 12v battery will still drain in this scenario.
> I drove for 20 minutes or so to allow the alternator to bring the 12V back to power.
The Prius does not have an Alternator, it uses a DC to DC converter in the inverter under the hood to deliver a charge the 12v. For the converter to be charging the battery, you need to have the Prius in READY (Brake and Power Button) for it to be delivering a charge to the 12v.
Also, 20 minutes is likely not enough to charge the 12v after a discharge incidence. At least an hour would be best if not longer.
Your battery also may have undergone sulfation due to discharging too deep, which will prevent it from holding a charge properly. This can be reversed with a NOCO GENIUS10, 10-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation. But depending on your 12v's age, it may be wise to just get a new one.
I upgraded my 2014 to a “hella horn”. Also known as a traffic blaster. Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-Protective-3AG-003-399-801/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Hella+horn&qid=1633309699&sr=8-3
I installed these a little while ago. They are aptly named, and are several orders of magnitude louder than the stock horns. The tone separation turns heads as well, as it's a very different ordinal than factory horns - a fifth down from the top note (E3-C4 to use notation).
What /u/pimpbot666 said about the ground wires is absolutely correct. You'll have to make two wires, so make sure you have some red spade connectors and yellow ring terminals handy. I used 10awg wire because that's what I had lying around but they're fed with two 18awg wires at most, so a 14ga wire would work fine. 16 would probably work fine too, but I like to oversize my grounds because I'm a nerd.
> I saw the jump points mentioned online also but couldn't find any under the hood, owners manual was no help in this situation. Unless I just couldn't find it in there.
It's likely inside the large fuse box under the hood.
> I think I let it run 20 minutes or so. Idk, never had one die that fast but I've also never worked on a hybrid.
That's not near enough. 1 more like 2 hours is the minimum you should let it charge. If it was really dead, even longer.
> I'm gonna hope she just buys a new battery and I'll slap it in there. Hopefully problem solved. Thanks.
That'll work. Just make sure she runs the vehicle in READY for 30 minutes each week if she doesn't drive much so the 12v stays charged.
You could also buy a NOCO GENIUS10, 10-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation which to maintain/repair the battery.
Personally repaired a suboptimal 12v of mine that had died and wouldn't charge above 12.14 volts. After a few repair cycles it recharged to 12.6+ volts which is basically new.
HELLA 003399801 Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Red Protective Grill, 2 Horns https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5YJTQA9A64PTEE4D29NE
They are ok - the pitch is a little higher than I’d like.