Not likely. Tesla inspected it and gave the sign off. The install is super simple and there are no exposed or stripped wires. The way the dashcam connects to power is through a cigarette lighter adapter wired to a inline fuse 12v battery terminal connector. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Blue sea. They’re marine units, and pretty nice.
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bgdnCb03QAVSB
I was going to mention this too, the signal wire came as a surprise to me when installing this unit. I have an older van, and I don't want to put extra load on my engine (through the alternator) before it's warmed up, so I'm installing an extra switch in the signal wire as well.
I first found a circuit in my fuse box that was only active when the ignition was one, then used one of these fuse taps to connect the signal wire.
Nah, it’s super easy. Find an alway hot fuse and one that only gets power when the car is on and use these to wire them in.
It’s preferred to solder the connection to the taps but not necessary. Just get butt connectors and heat shrink.
Replace that horn. Easy, cheap. So many options.
I think these are them:
Hella dual tone Very very loud but does push near the max amps of the circuit.
12V DC is pretty safe and easy to work with and because it's so widespread there are lots of ready-made parts. u/Broan13 linked a good example video. In that the guy used this adapter which already has a fuse holder built in, as long as you get something similar you'll be fine (make sure it's actually genuine and has a fuse).
Other than that just use sufficient gauge (thickness) wire for the current you need, the guy in the video used 14 gauge which is more than enough, but he's following the best advice for electrical work which is "when in doubt, overbuild".
One thing I would do which the person in the video didn't is cover the terminals of the battery or put a lid over the box, so that if you drop something at night or in transport it has no chance of falling across the terminals and causing a short. Keep it ventilated though.
These are 100% plug and play, just take off the radiator cover- https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-012010901-Black-Trumpet-Toyota/dp/B01EG18SFM
There are adapters to retain steering wheel controls. I used a Metra Axxess ASWC-1 for mine. Literally just connect the wires and it was already programmed out of the box.
Just go on amazon and look for fuse boxes. There are lots available for custom car applications, trailers, and motorcycles as well as marine applications (water-proof with high grade connections).
The mentioned VB block is 1. from VB and 2. Twice the price of the same block from somewhere like Summit.
There are a lot of options
another smaller type:
Bought the horns off of Amazon then I used some extra wire and fixtures that were laying around the garage! I'll put a link to the horn set I bought. But this is my 2016 crosstrek that's I've owned for about two months and I love it! HELLA (3AG 003 399-801) Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Hp6WAbFFJ7W96
I have a 120 volt electric shaver that takes 3 watts. I use an inverter for that. I also have a small soldering station that uses 120 volts. It is likely that you will have something that needs 120 volts where a 12 volt version of the product isn't available or practical. My inverter was $26, actually only $20 as I had a coupon.
Search on Amazon for "cigarette lighter socket" to see what's available. There are many plug in devices like fans, lights, fridges, laptop DC chargers. For example, a cord, socket and fuse:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Adapter-Socket-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/
Is your fridge a thermoelectric cooler? Is it a Peltier device? You only want a compressor fridge. If there is a switch that can make the cooler a warmer it is the wrong kind. The wrong kind uses way too much electricity and doesn't keep food cold enough to be safe in a van. The wrong kind is just great if you have a bunch of chilled drinks to take on a picnic or to the beach for an afternoon. There are many 12 volt fridges over $600. There are also many cheaper ones. Sometimes expensive fridges are cheap on Craigs list. Alpicool C15 are well reviewed, low power, $180 new at Amazon.
To run new wires, use a multimeter to find an appropriate spare slot in your fusebox. You'll need one that turns on and off with the ignition and one that is always on. If you can't find an empty slot, you can tap existing fuses with these.
Your best bet is probably to identify the cut wires and use them. This site has pinouts and wire coloring for miatas.
I didn't know Spain made cars. That's a cool looking hatch.
I'm not aware of anyway to add Bluetooth to your factory stereo that will allow you to use the steering wheel controls. However, I know with most cars available in the US if you add an aftermarket stereo you can get an adapter so it will use the steering wheel controls and that will skip songs via Bluetooth. However, you're obviously in Europe and I've never even heard of the auto maker SEAT so I couldn't be sure of availability.
Edit: this is an example of the adapter I'm talking about. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4PJC9K/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ikdivb0YPRXTG
You would need to replace your stereo completely and confirm compatability with your Bocanegra but I imagine there's a version of this in your country.
Let me recommend you upgrade your harness first if you haven't.
Just the harness upgrade will increase your stock headlights by like 30-40%. Not even kidding. Google it, it's all over the forums. It's a must-do $40 upgrade on XJ's. Then just throw some Xtravisions in it or something for like $15 a piece, or go nuts and get some Rampages or something - either way, it's a MUST to upgrade harnesses first, especially when going to a high watt upgrade like rampages.
Tips when installing the harness - go in through the front of the passenger side headlight to put the relays back inside the engine bay so that you don't need to remove your battery. This makes it 100x easier, and the whole thing can be done inside of an hour. Also don't tug too much on the wiring, the relay housings aren't amazing and wires can come out if you really tug them. Sand your grounds VERY well, it's the main cause of people having relays go. Also maybe grab a spare relay just in case - Link
I wired mine with a piggy back fuse on the fuel pump.
These just plug into the factory fuse box under the hood. Run a wire to a relay that triggers the LEDs. They’ll be on any time the key is on. I do the same thing to run the amber back lights on my off road lights.
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Running a fuse panel would be another option. Allows all of your devices to be protected and allows you to add as many fans, lights, etc as your electircal system will handle. Plus allows you to add on to a custom build in the future if you wanted to add more devices.
No. Behind the button is actually a chip, not wires.
Here’s what I did for my 03 and 05 suburbans. I bought these that plug into an existing fuse and basically piggy back off it. I chose to use my high beam fuse. I used power from that fuse as the power for my relay for my LP9s. I also have a button in the truck. So now when I turn on my regular high beams my off road lights also come on. If I want just factory high beams I turn the off road lights off with the button.
Amazon fit claims my 2021 Prime is not compatible with the Hella model 012010901 that I bought too. But it's already installed so I know it works perfectly.
The one Amazon recommends first as an alternate and claims as "this fits" does not have a plug that matches the Toyota harness.
On a related note, when a product claims 300dB volume, realize that is enough to kill you and everyone in a 1000' radius at minimum. It's far louder than a nuclear bomb. So you probably shouldn't trust that manufacturer's claim of "universal fit" either.
We went with the trumpet style one. Also a perfect fit, maybe five minutes to install. Obviously I can't compare it to the one you went with but it was definitely an upgrade over stock.
I got the Hella horns: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EG18SFM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Its much louder than the OEM horns! It was pretty easy to install. I just watched a few videos on youtube. The rest was straight forward. I'd suggest you get the toyota one in the link above because it was just plug and play. The connections are a bit tight, but i was able to keep the horns facing downward.
Get a Fuse Block, you dont want to plug anything straight into your battery, things could get damaged.
I use the blue sea one, but others on amazon are cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/
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Once you have a fuse block, connect it to the battery, then connect accessories to the fuseblock.
I did the DC conversion on mine. Scooterswap has you splice in to a wire. I used one of these instead
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742BZXC2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 and added a switch for day time riding or stealth lol.
since the swap I've had no issues with my high beams.
But it might be your bulb, maybe put the old one in and see if the high is working on that?
This is what I got and I think a lot of us here use this. For speakers, check out Crutchfield. I use Kickers. I don't remember the number off the top of my head but they were on sale for like $50 for the pair.
FYI horn was super simple to replace.
Tips: do it when it’s hot out, makes the plastic easier to bend. Loosen the hood latch mechanism but don’t remove it. 10mm and 12mm sockets required. I used a vise to rotate the bracket on the horn itself to get the connection closer to power supply.
I have the same. Added a NOCO connector and use a NOCO genius 10 to keep it charged once a month. My 34R battery is a bit over 3 years old and so far no issues. It does take a whole weekend to complete the last part of the full charge.
I hear you man just do what I did!
HELLA 012010901 Black 12V BX... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EG18SFM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Pretty much bolt in. The car only has one horn from factory, so I had to make a custom extension harness. But they do make one that’s pre made https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T6YN7CB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AD9VXTVC49PSY3A81X1Y. It was going to take a month to get so I fabricated one lol. Cool thing is the factory horn is held in with 2 bolts, so I was able to use the extra bolt to mount the second horn. There’s even a second unused horn mount under the air plenum so it’s super convenient.
HELLA 012010901 Black 12V BX... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EG18SFM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Pretty much bolt in. The car only has one horn from factory, so I had to make a custom extension harness. But they do make one that’s pre made https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T6YN7CB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AD9VXTVC49PSY3A81X1Y. It was going to take a month to get so I fabricated one lol. Cool thing is the factory horn is held in with 2 bolts, so I was able to use the extra bolt to mount the second horn. There’s even a second unused horn mount under the air plenum so it’s super convenient.
No. Just. No.
I mean, yes, they do work, but ping 16 is a direct connection to the positive battery terminal, and by spec does NOT have to be fused (usually is, but I've seen some models not do so).
OP is missing some needed information:
- Using 3 or 2 wire power supply for the Viofo
- Wanting parking modes active on the camera, or off with the car.
- Are the Accessory sockets powered all the time, or switched?
I would rather recommend something like this (not recommending this one specifically, but it had a good, clear, picture), and plug it into one of the spares (if your car has one, my '16 fusion has four!); or in the case of OP's picture, looks like fuse #1 - Accessory or one of those Accessory Socket ones, like #10. Dependent on the answers to the questions above.