>hat!! That’s genius hahaha. I gotta know more. Just hardware store stuff?
you can google Mfg Part # MS100124 which is apr catch can kit. It has a valve.
The one i am using is on Fumoto F106SX M14-1.5 Sx Series Drain Valve
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01HP5V092/ref=pe_41291580_475834460_TE_item
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The one I am using is on Fumoto F106SX M14-1.5 Sx Series Drain Valve
Just get a universal drain plug. They're like $10 on Amazon.
Same principle as a drywall anchor.
You fold the two "wings" over, insert them into the drain hole, they expand and grip into the bottom of the pan and the rubber stopper at the head seals everything.
Super simple & super cheap. Highly effective.
Some side notes:
My advice would be that if the water pump isn't leaking, leave it where it is. This is a thankless task.
They make many different types of repair kits for damaged drain plugs. I would for sure try a repair kit before swapping the pan.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65229-AutoGrade-Drain-Plug/dp/B000COBBSE/
I swear by stahlbus. I personally think it's a smarter setup.
Fumoto Original F108S FS-Series Drain Valve with Short Nippple with Lever Clip, Bronze, 16mm-1.5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FFHH0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FWEK69GM5EC4AYXX05YZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
looks like a boat drain plug only reason I say is we used to have a guy in our shop who would use one as a drain plug on his mercury
looked like thisPlug
Take a look at this kit, read the reviews. One guy used this kit to just go up one size and it seated well. If you don’t have a thread gauge you can always bring the plug to a hardware store and figure out the current size. I would go slow, back out, clean and regrease often to catch as many metal shavings as possible. Helicoil is another way to go. Good luck.
Oil Drain Plug Tap Thread Repair Kit Oil Pan Screws Rethread Tool M15 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEFKNX4/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_W8V92YJW82DGTQVZTAZ0?psc=1
If you have a place to do it then this is one of the easiest cars to change the oil. The oil filter is on top, right in the front of the engine, and you can just roll up on a pair of ramps to drain the oil out of the engine. Many of us use the Fumoto drain valve in place of our oil drain plug. With that you just connect a hose to the valve and open it with the lever to drain your oil. I put the end of the hose in a container like this and then just take the old oil to the car parts store where they have free disposal/recycling. The whole oil change take about 15 minutes and you don’t need tools.
I got my ‘17 three weeks ago and did oil+ Fumoto valve, engine and cabin air filters and spark plugs. Just ordered the transmission/diff oil. Feels so good to get the car completely sorted right off the bat.
Which Fumoto valve did you get? That one looks different to what I’m used to seeing. I went with this one and it works perfectly with their tube kit. The low profile outlet is perfectly recessed for our cars.
For $80-100 I would replace with an aftermarket easy change drain plug since I do my own oil
RONIN FACTORY - Easy Oil Drain for 2015+ Ford F150, Ford Raptor & Ford Mustang Replacement for Ford BC3Z-6730-A / FT4Z-6730-A Engine Oil Drain Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H56TP4F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ACDN1X6BBEXWNGXYB9C2
You want an oversize plug that's designed to cut new threads.
Look at this one. Notice the threads are tapered at the end and there's little slots cut in there? That will catch in the existing hole and cut new threads as you tighten.
Notice this design is intended to be installed in the pan and never removed again so the new threads aren't damaged. You use the smaller inner plug to drain oil in future
Fumoto Original F108S FS-Series Drain Valve with Short Nippple with Lever Clip, Bronze, 16mm-1.5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FFHH0M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_EE2SWZ3PM11TH3FW9P2B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'll DM you my address so you can send me a thank you card
I installed this, RONIN FACTORY - Easy Oil Drain for 2015+ Ford F150, Ford Raptor & Ford Mustang Replacement for Ford BC3Z-6730-A / FT4Z-6730-A Engine Oil Drain Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H56TP4F/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_S1KP6V65MBXEAPV0JHJY, and have had got luck with it so far. A little pricey but much less mess on oil change.
RONIN FACTORY - Easy Oil Drain for 2015+ Ford F150, Ford Raptor & Ford Mustang Replacement for Ford BC3Z-6730-A / FT4Z-6730-A Engine Oil Drain Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H56TP4F/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VZ4ZXEZ28S1JTKC35HJ3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Nice! Going to change my oil in a little bit too after this coffee!
Might I recommend a Fumoto Drain Valve for your car if you're going to be the one doing oil changes. I've had it on for 4 years now and it takes me less than 20 minutes on average to do my oil changes lol, a small incline on the front tires and I can just drain without having to change washer or do any bolting.
Can Confirm. My driveway is hella steep, this makes maintenance challenging. Added Fumoto valve and completed first oilchange in 15 minutes. Super easy and will be adding to all my cars. 19 Outback Premium
If you really want to go riding or something this weekend you can put in a temp rubber drain bolt, like this one, and then afterward like everyone else says put in a helicoil kit.
Get a piggyback bolt set, thank me later.
There are also versions that have a screw on cap to seal the valve from dirt and salt.
Like this one and there are likely even better ones if you dig around.
Just to add another option, I did a Fumoto oil drain valve on my TDI. You just put a 3/8” (I think) hose on the end, open the valve and drain it right into your container (I use an old 5L oil container), then close the valve. The car still needs to go up, but not far as there isn’t any torquing or replacing plugs or anything.
FYI I did need the banjo bolt style on my 2013 because of the oil pan style, the normal one wouldn’t thread on because the valve hit the pan.
F106SX: New Generation Fumoto Valve with 14mm-1.5 Thread Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HP5V092/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zsRrFb4BB7356
Although, I have not purchased this yet, it is in my cart for my next oil change. With it, you can attach a hose to the plug and it will direct the oil directly in the disposal container. I feel like it is going to make oil changes a much more pleasant experience
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I have a different pan that doesn't splash. Maybe if you inserted a large funnel in the hole, raised the pan and placed the pan such that the initial fast stream hit the funnel there would be no splashing. You could make a large funnel by cutting the bottom off of a gallon jug of oil (or milk, etc)
I dont know what type you tried or the guard layout, but they do make versions that can be rotated and have outlets perpendicular to the pan hole. For example this one
I just changed the oil in my '16 Crosstrek. This makes it much easier.
I have one for my Outback, and I'm never looking back to using a normal screw. Different models also have different styles (long tip, etc), so you're bound to find something that will still have adequate clearance even for off-roading. I personally use the F-108N, which has a long tip, and it still tucks away inside the factory skid plate.
As for not being able to drain completely...I'd say it depends. My OB has the drain hole facing the rear-ish of the car, and I have my car on ramps during oil changes, so gravity kinda does the work of clearing out that last little bit for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MEFKNX4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Just be warned that this may not work for you. My factory plug is a M14x1.25 thread, so I'll be drilling it out with a M15 bit and tapping using this kit.
Still, this comes with a magnetic drain plug which I really wanted.
Any normal crush washer should work. The idea of the crush washer is to slightly deform when you tighten the drain bolt, so that it forms a tight seal all round the head of the bolt and the oil pan. I just buy a pack like this and then I'm set for a while. If you have a bunch, it makes it easier to change your oil and have one less thing to remember to buy, plus it dissuades you from reusing the old one. Most of the time, you'd probably be fine reusing the old one, but I can spare the 50 cents, so I just use a new one every time.
I actually just watched the oil change video from Jake TheGardenSnake where he links the crush washers he used for his 2016 FZ07. Thanks for the help!
For the oil and filter, I'd recommend going to the closest Jap Four dealer and get your manufacturer, or a similar manufacturer's 10w40 for 4 strokes, then go to the parts department and tell them you need a filter for your exact bike; almost guaranteed they have some in stock.
Gloves - if you go to the pharmacy section in walmart or a similar store, you can get 100 gloves for under $10. You'll pretty much never have to buy them again.
Here's a set of metal crush washers that are actually cheaper per washer ($.89 vs $.793 each). Again, get a bunch right away, and then you don't have to worry about it for a while.
Torque wrench - some people are recommending against that one, or even using one in general. There's nothing wrong with torquing an oil drain bolt, it's a little excessive, but you can't do anything wrong if you torque it to spec. That might not be the most accurate torque wrench in the world, but unless you're taking apart the motor, it'll be close enough for what you use it for. Plus by buying one now, you'll have it for future use, obviously it's not like it's only applicable for this one specific job.
I'm surprised you didn't get the one with a short nipple: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FFHH0M/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2863GGTLW41KH
or the one with a longer one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCB9WC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
For anyone worried about them coming open on their own you can also get a plastic piece that snaps over the valve to give some piece of mind (although it isn't necessary).