amazon
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recently replaced mines last year bought from the local toyota dealer though, just looked identical with amazon ones, just re-boxed labeled lexus and yota. Still made in Taiwan
Read some were able to source made from Japan, but more pricey.
I ordered this from Amazon. Genuine GM 20993998 Radiator Air Deflector Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUFJX0W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_msTEBbQ6Z7F12
It's an OEM part and probably an inch or so shorter than the one it comes on the car from the factory. Double check that this fits the 2015, mines a 2012.
I replaced mine myself and contrary to some people's statements on here mine was getting torn apart by dragging every day and it was starting to work the screws holding it on loose.
Unfortunately mine still drags a little after the replacement but now doesn't seem to be doing as much damage. Alternatively you can pull your original one off, tape a line and cut 1" to 1.5" inches off the bottom edge. It's soft enough to cut with heavy duty scissors.
I would run it by the friendliest Chevrolet dealer you have nearby before you do anything else. Best case they replace it for free. Worst case they give you an expensive estimate that will make you feel better about doing it yourself.
I agree it looks promising and the price is OKish although the remaining visible damage from the (literal!) fender bender wouldn't be cheap to fix. Rust is always the #1 concern to watch for. Seller claims none but you should confirm this yourself, especially considering your location. Look for damage behind the fender and under the hood. I'd watch for bent suspension components.
On the plus side black NA paint is single stage and oh-so-restoration friendly. Seller is correct with statements about the "Black and Tan" 1992 Miata. BBS center caps are missing, and somewhat hard/costly to obtain if you want them. Glass rear window indicates a replaced top, probably a good thing. Bonus if it includes the original boot cover because the tan ones are going up in price on eBay. I got one for $100 in June but they were all $130+ last I checked.
Ultimately this resource is the gold standard for Miata inspection: http://www.miata.net/faq/usedmx5.html
Bring tools. Be careful if you pull and inspect spark plugs; do not tighten more than 11-17 ft-lbs (132-204 in-lbs). Not noted in that guide is the radiator color. Black is OK. Olive is showing age. Brown is time to replace ASAP. Miata engines do not like to overheat, so a well-sorted cooling system is critical. But replacement TYC on Amazon is affordable and easy direct swap.
Good luck! Post back with an update if you look at it or buy it.
Cheaper and almost identical to the NA rad that works great. I bought a TYC rad from Amazon last year for my NA and it fit perfectly and ended up being a Koyo.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IYPQPC/
You don't need all aluminum unless you're tracking regularly. The plastic/aluminum last up to 20-25 years on NAs so durability isn't a concern with the OEM rads. They usually gunk up internally and become inefficient before they leak or fail.
I just replaced mine this fall with this one of amazon and it's worked great so far. Fit right in no hassles at all. Engine temp stays a solid 5-10 degrees cooler now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7S062/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This one: https://smile.amazon.com/TYC-1140-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPNC8 - direct-fit replacement.
EDIT: Amazon is showing that as a no-fit for 1990. I didn't think the 1.6 was different but make sure before you buy!
Also get a new cap. Use your judgement on the hoses but since you'll be in there, especially the one down low, may as well replace if it isn't in great shape.
This is probably the radiator you want to get. Haven't heard anything bad about it.
Since Miatas have their batteries in the trunk, they use this interesting "sealed" type of battery that prevents battery fumes from getting into the passenger compartment. There are tubes that connect to the battery to exhaust the gases.
I think this WestCo is a common replacement
This is the one I got and like most things it's no longer that price, but with that said I've put in two of these and no issues. Our club president recommended this one so I went with it as he does a LOT of Miata work and is a encyclopedia when it comes to the NAs and NBs.
Still worth $138 IMHO, that plus some coolant and maybe a hose if they look cracked.
The original radiator was still working fine, but it was getting long in the tooth as the plastic had changed to that ugly green color indicating potential failure. I watched this NA radiator replacement video to get an idea of the size and scope of the job and then went at it. The replacement is a TYC 1140 Radiator.
The first photo is the old radiator drained with the top hose and overflow tube removed. I'd meant to take a "before" picture and forgot, so this is the 1st in progress pic.
In the second photo you'll see that I took the protective skid pan off so that I could get to the two mounting brackets for the factory installed AC piping. This step can be skipped for those who don't have factory AC.
Third is with the old radiator removed and forth is the side by side prior to transferring the fans and mounting hardware. Fifth is with the fans moved and the additional cooling pipes removed from the bottom as they aren't required on my car. The trick to getting the fans to fit was to loosely insert the bolts and tighten them in rotation - it is a snug fit.
And the sixth photo shows a mistake. I installed the lower mounting pins on the front side rather than the back - doh! An easy fix. Those are rainbow sandals if anyone is curious. The seventh shows the correct orientation of the mounting posts.
Last two are the final installation and hookup. Filled with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze, ran it for a while checking for leaks. Stopped the engine, topped off the radiator as fluid is now filling the engine block and hoses. Ran it a while more and all looks good.
I also noticed that it is time to replace some belts and check the timing belt, but that's a project that I'll hire out.
Might need to be topped up on coolant. cleaned, or similar.
What you're thinking of with the bent fins can be fixed with a fin comb.
https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL10680-Radiator-Fin-Comb/dp/B006K8GKBO#customerReviews
The aluminum tank I'm talking about,
Is tyc a decent radiator brand?
TYC 2674 Radiator Compatible with 2003-2005 Subaru Forester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IYSI0M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VFGSRNGDW57DBNKBYNFE
I can get this shipped and be here on Friday and it's less expensive than any local parts stores then get the hoses locally
Put in a stock Spectra-Premium radiator, you don't need none of that fancy "upgrade" shit: https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU1193-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000C7S062
For the water pump I've found Gates to be a trustworthy brand, I put one in 2 years ago and haven't had a problem with it.
You know they make a specific tool for straightening fins that costs under $20? Would have saved you 3 hours and 55 minutes. Still looks way better now regardless.
Did you just hose out the radiator from the front? Or did you really spray out the fins well from the back side of the radiator. I usually have to take off the plastic cover on too and take a couple bolts out. Then you can move stuff around enough to fit a tool like this..
Radiator Genie - Water & Air Cleaning Wands for High Efficiency Cooling Systems and Radiators - Blow Out / Wash Out Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAU8J6D/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_W1NFWDXQQ068K496WAVX
My wife's JKU overheats on the highway Everytime after we go through mud, until I clean it properly. Cleaning the radiator from the front, even with a pressure washer does not get it clean enough.
This is the one you want: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYPNC8
I have installed two of these with good results. Direct fit. Just pull your radiator, transfer the mounting hardware and fans to the new. Install everything and replace any lost coolant. Replace hoses as needed, of course. "Burp" the system and you should be good for many more miles.
Note: the unit is AT compatible but if you have a manual, you can ignore or remove the AT cooling line connectors. It's a separate chamber in the radiator.
This thing is the bee's knees. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002ATK4N2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Use it together with a hoover. It will get everything, you will be addicted and you will be breaking into the neighbours' to clean theirs.
This is what I got for this very purpose:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002ATK4N2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It worked well :)
The $80 TYC brand radiator available on Amazon is a direct fit replacement. It has connections for AT cooler which you can simply ignore if installing on a manual transmission car. Drain coolant, pull old, swap over the mounts and bushings and whatnot, install new, replace coolant, burp it, top it off, done. A lot of people replace upper and lower hoses too, that's up to you. Definitely get a new radiator cap also.
That one in the video is really brown. Look it over carefully. See info about this in the guide: https://www.miata.net/garage/garagebuying.html
Possibly a comb for straightening the fins on AC condensers. They are made in different fin spacing. Here is a link for a similar one on Amazon. Radiator Fin Comb
I know your title indicates radiator relocation but these also work. A little pricy, but you could always make one too - Radiator Genie - Water & Air Cleaning Wands for High Efficiency Cooling Systems and Radiators
I got this one off amazon and have been super happy with it. Dropped right in, noticeable drop in engine temp on the highway.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7S062/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stock is fine if yo u don't plan to turbo or track the car. This one from amazon works great for most people.
If you do think you'll ever turbo or track it go for one of the mishimoto all aluminum ones. They're more expensive and seem to have a few quality control issues here and there but they come with a lifetime warranty and offer better cooling over the stock replacement.
Stock is absolutely fine unless you add forced induction and/or race it on a track.
I have purchased the TYC radiator on Amazon twice and both have been quick, easy, and problem free. Be sure to also order a new radiator cap, it won't come with one and you shouldn't reuse your old one.
Pull out your old one, swap over the mounting bits and bushings, transfer the fan(s), and install. Fill with coolant to replace what you lost, and "burp" it. Some people suggest replacing the upper and lower hoses while you're at it. They're not expensive.
The one you'll get will have the AT line connections at the bottom, which you can ignore. They are not connected to your coolant system. It's no concern if one or both of the little rubber caps fall off.
I bought this one in an 01 Sport. Worked fine. It's a little more but free shipping. I am a fan of Rockauto though. Good company.
I went with this radiator on Amazon and it hasn't let me down in the year and a half it's been in. If you're going for the upgraded setup (a pretty good idea considering the turbo) then I would look at mishimoto or similar, but I haven't done extensive research.
I'm a Subaru EJ-Engine geek. I'm sorry to hear about your symptoms showing up.
If you need to save money, it's a really easy job, and the TYC rad's are cheap enough.
Use the "Will This Fit" thing, but I bought one of those about a year ago, and replaced the cap with an OEM Radiator Cap. Price is fair enough.
I did the job in about 2 hours on my '07 Forester (basically the same car as yours), in the rain, first time with that car. It was pretty easy. The upper and lower hose, and the two transmission cooler lines. Have the largest Vice-Grips you can find (10" +) and a pair of smaller (?6"?) for the Trans-cooler lines (or just any pliers) a clean drain pan if you're going to re-use the coolant. Remove the 2 10mm bolts on the overflow tank, get it out of the way. Mine as well wash it out while you've got it out. 2-3 bolts to remove the fan(s) assembly. There are two mounting brackets which you'll see on the top of the radiator support, where the front grill is. The radiator just drops in onto dowels/locator-pins, and then the brackets bolt it on the top.
If you're really strapped for cash right now you'll be able to get by. Just keep a good eye on your coolant over flow when cold. Don't press your luck though... Pretty much the main reason for blowing gaskets, as I mentioned before.
I hope this helps.
It does look like a good deal. Properly maintained by an engineer owner? Wow. All it needs is a radiator to replace that brown one which is certainly approaching failure (under $100 DIY with the TYC radiator from Amazon) and you should be all set!