Don't buy it from a auto parts store they will rip you off. Check Amazon they are $70 bucks for a good one if you shop around you might find cheaper. just make sure you get the rear one not the front aka upstream you need a downstream Just look up on YouTube how to change a rear o2 sensor it's super easy you need a wrench don't remember the size or you can buy a special o2 sensor socket but it's not necessary It connect to the downpipe it will have a green connector you can get to it fairly easily aswell don't touch the sensor part on your new one with your fingers just the outer part that you see that stick out of your downpipe.
Here's a link assuming your talking about 15+ wrx
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FGXRNWS/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_CR1CYXZ4R09KH1GJW2R6
I just had to replace the rear upstream one on my Odyssey. Pain in the ass. Basically had to do it blind. I do have a good sensor socket though.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-47749-8-Inch-Offset-Oxygen/dp/B00GMN4D1Q
Mine looks like this.
I have a PowerBuilt 648691 Oxygen Sensor Offset Puller. It was the only tool that didn't flex/strip. Don't forget to heat that bish up. Powerbuilt 648691 Oxygen Sensor Offset Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00390BS7C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_HCYPJ59MKKNDSBJSH7DW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Change the O2 sensor. Use this tool, if you have a hard time. Nothing at the local stores worked, they all flexed too much.O2 sensor wrench
Ok, so you need the downhill o2 sensor Denso 234-4623 Oxygen Sensor https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000C5WCUO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ZJPQ40ZMGP8P7CGJZ8H5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And this is the cat that I used. AUTOSAVER88 Catalytic Converter Compatible with 2004-2009 Toyota Prius 1.5L Direct-Fit High Flow Series (EPA Compliant) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B088QWJ2N5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_XZMYVD1W76VB92S406B4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Keep in mind, going this route will cause the check engine light to come on, even tho nothing is actually wrong. If the links don't work, just search Amazon for "denzo downhill o2 sensor (insert your cars year).
Yes, the sensors will be on the underside, sticking out of the exhaust pipe, usually forward of the middle of the vehicle. They will have wires sticking out and look similar to this
https://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4261-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B0016NBBQW
The connection may be located anywhere along the length of the wire, and they usually connect near the front or rear of the engine bay, near the engine. Though again it can connect anywhere along the wire between the sensor and the engine bay. Sometime the wire runs through the passenger compartment, this is not super common though, but if you see the wire go through the floor, you'll know it runs through the passenger compartment.
Post back if you are successful or if you need more help. Thx. :)
So bank 2 is passenger side. Sensor 2 is downstream meaning it’s before the catalytic converter. It’s fairly easy to replace you’ll just need to get under the car. Here’s the link to the Denso
234-4261 Oxygen Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016NBBQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x9ZMFbWB2V95V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used this sensor to replace bank 1 sensor 2
Did you use any penetrating oil (PB Blaster)? Also, did you use a proper o2 sensor socket?
Just wondering so I know what to expect for my install :)
I've been doing the same thing since I'm about to install my DP as well. These are the tips I've found so far.
Remove the o2 sensors while the DP is still on the car, it tends to be easier. Spray some PB Blaster on the o2 sensors and v-band clamp to loosen them up. Use a proper o2 sensor socket with a breaker bar and they should come off fairly easy. You can remove the DP bracket to help get it out without removing much else.
I'd definitely like to know any other tips too!
depends on what the code or fault was. there are some DTCs (fault codes) that will set right away, such as electrical voltage high or low. others require certain monitoring conditions to be met, and they may have to set on consecutive 'trips'. Once the code has set, it can automatically clear itself if either the monitors run again without the fault condition being detected or so many warmup cycles without the fault conditions present. depends on the fault.
That being said, you may be able to find a replacement o2 sensor flange and have an exhaust system shop remove the old one and weld in a new one. An example of the flange is here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JYZ9Z1G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2NMBIZOMZLC5C&psc=1
you would have to verify what the correct flange is for your vehicle, if you choose to go that route.
> how big of a job am I looking at?
We need to make sure your wiring harness is not damaged/chewed by critters before making that call. Wiring repairs generally aren't too hard if you know how to properly cut and splice. The O2 sensor is only 4 wires. The sensor itself is only held in by the threads, so it's as easy as unscrewing the old one and screwing the new one back in. Sometimes these oxygen sensor adapters for your ratchet can help a lot for loosening the old one since it can be on there pretty tight.
I can't help with the second one but I know the forward O2 sensor should be the NGK 25648 or OEM... Which is the same sensor at twice the price. I had a brand new Bosch sensor installed prior to taking ownership of my 2004 R53 and it would kick the code after 3 or 4 starts. Read up online and found that the car is really finicky about he forward O2 sensor and that this is the one to get. Changed it out and no more code! Click Here
Awesome thank you! I actually went to that page and somehow missed the pictures. and for the o2 sensor socked this would work right?
How do I identify them? Or should I ask the mechanic? He just told me Air Fuel ratio sensor.
This is what I found when googling the part: