https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00296CI58/ref=twister_B00BW1TOI0?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
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This should answer your question.
I bought a 4-pack of Plasti Dip on Amazon, specifically this one. I messed up the first time since I sprayed too close, and too much at once, but thankfully it's just Plasti Dip and it just peels right off. I sprayed it once more, and the trick is to use a fuller can since it doesn't glob up near the end. I did about 4 coats, and completely used up 3 of the 4 cans. No finisher coating.
Yes but go light as to not burn into the fibers or you will see the surface reflection change in those areas after you clear it.
You might be able to use compressed air to help lift/remove the failing clear coat in any areas that it’s lifting before you start sanded 600grit, wet sand lightly. Just enough to smooth the surface and rough it up for new clear to bond.
Use a 2-stage clear coat. (It’s a curing two part clear) it will last much longer and be tougher You can get it in a activating spray can also , check on amazon for “2k clear coat”
Or: USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol (2 PACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W2D806Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_klHMFbZTE9PGY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> 2k clear
2-part Clearcoat in a spray can. You pop a container that lets it mix and then you have ~48 hrs use out of it.
https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY
check the reviews for some decent information and experiences.
2K clearcoat, two component paint sometimes referred to as urethane paint it’s where you have to mix the paint and the Hardner then spray it with a spraygun and then a chemical reaction cures it rather than “drying” basically car paint, if you have extra stickers I would say slap them on a metal tube and clearcoat it and see what happens I imagine unless your stickers are really low quality they should be fine you can get 2K clearcoat on Amazon once you crack the seal on the bottom you have about 24 hours to use the can before it hardens https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY
If they screwed up the paint that bad, you might want to bring it back to base of factory paint. Generally a good 400, then 600 does the job.
Guy down the street said he use a new 2K (two part) spray can system that did an amazing job. I haven't seen it, it's probably the same as this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY
Taking the time to bring it back to a good base, helps to insure that it won't have a bad reaction.
Wet sanding with 400 and a flex sanding block works pretty well.
Not anything formally written up, but this is pretty much it: I stain the wood with LMII analine dyes and for this guitar I finished with this stuff, wet sanded up to about 2000-3000 then buffed with polishing compounds. All it really takes is a good piece of figured maple, the dying process doesn't have to be complicated if the wood already looks great. There's all kinds of tutorials on this kind of thing though, I've seen some good stuff on youtube for sure!
If you want a more durable, 2-part clear in a rattle can, try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_C9MNSKYWGMBMWCXEQKAB You'd likely need to have a few projects ready to go. It's like a can within a can, and once the 2 parts mix, the shelf life is very short, and it ain't exactly cheap!
I've been using a product called Axe Wax, a drying wax blend, for a little more natural feel than a clear coat. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081HYYKSJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_YF7SKYXEA724M1S5CYYP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
NOT to be confused with AX WAX, for guitars! 😁
Your stuff is really beautiful!
Honestly, I suck at this and it still looks good IMHO. For $34 I used a little over one of four cans and that’s cause I messed up and had to peel off and reapply a couple times. Easily a one can job, but I plan to do my rims next so I bought four cans. It’s my first time using plasti-dip, but it’s so cool, just peel off and try again if you mess up. If you hate it, just peel off and go back to the silver. It’s literally idiot and mistake proof. All I can say is you can CLEARLY tell the spots I did right and the spots I rushed. Go slow and layer thin coats and keep the spray 12” away it will look smooth as satin… get rushed and too close with the spray and it ripples… BUT… since the rest of the interior is a mix of smooth and bumpy… I think it matches either way 🤷🏻♂️
4 PACK PLASTI DIP Mulit-Purpose Rubber Coating Spray BLACK 11oz Aerosol https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0093BSNB0/
Honestly, I suck at this and it still looks good IMHO. For $34 I used a little over one of four cans and that’s cause I messed up and had to peel off and reapply a couple times. Easily a one can job, but I plan to do my rims next so I bought four cans. It’s my first time using plasti-dip, but it’s so cool, just peel off and try again if you mess up. If you hate it, just peel off and go back to the silver. It’s literally idiot and mistake proof. All I can say is you can CLEARLY tell the spots I did right and the spots I rushed. Go slow and layer thin coats and keep the spray 12” away it will look smooth as satin… get rushed and too close with the spray and it ripples… BUT… since the rest of the interior is a mix of smooth and bumpy… I think it matches either way 🤷🏻♂️
4 PACK PLASTI DIP Mulit-Purpose Rubber Coating Spray BLACK 11oz Aerosol https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0093BSNB0/
Looks like the clearcoat has seen better days.
I just bought a can of this after watching some youtube videos of DIY clearcoat.
Haven't tried it yet but you want to consider doing that soon.
So basically, it looks like a regular rattle can, but inside this rattle can is a balloon filled with a chemical. You press down on a button on the bottom of the can, an internal pin pierces the balloon, and then you shake it so that the two chemicals can mix with each other. What you end up with is a two-component mixture similar to what you would have in a professional spray gun. You then have to use the can within a few days.
In regular rattle cans, you can only have single-component paint, since it's premixed from the factory, and a two-component paint would harden inside the can before you use the product. The two-component paint (or clearcoat) should form a significantly harder surface, that can be polished or sanded a lot better.
There is a bladder on the inside of spray can that contains a separate reacting agent. 2k clear coat is almost the same as legitimate automotive clear coat and holds up to sunlight much better than standard rattle can paint. There is a mechanism on the bottom of the can that is used to puncture that bladder and activate the paint for use. It is only good for a limited amount of time after first use though. https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY
This is what I used.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W2D806Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Dy88FbVNNF19E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I did
So yes it is
45 bucks plus the sandpaper I already had.
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY
Sorry I couldn’t find and brick and mortar
I wet sanded 800 then wet sanded to 1600 or 1800 (I forget) cleaned it with water then gave it a wipe down with alcohol. Two cans, and as many coats as I could put down. Get good clear though. I recommend this stuff
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W2D806Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_fHqDFbR4VZTMM
Anything that isn't 2-part is complete shit, even if it is supposedly meant for cars. You need something like this if you expect it to last.
AC Schnitzer front bumper could be a start or just adding a lip, and center caps for your wheels would be a nice detail, I have floating caps on mine. M3 diffuser is another thing you could add on that's subtle. Foglights or foglight covers would be a nice addition since it seems that you are painting a bit.
Also, if you are re-clearing your paint with a spray can of clear for a temp fix, try some 2K clear coat. It has an amazing shiny finish for being in a can and keeps orange peel to a minimum. Just make sure to prep good and spray at a good distance.
The closest thing in paint today that we have to japaning, is DupliColor de1635 semi-gloss Ford engine paint. I use it when I restore my Griswold stoves, mailboxes, and milk boxes.
https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1635-Ceramic-Semi-Gloss-Engine/dp/B000GKEXVQ
spray paint works, but the prep/primer will depend on the frame material. Steel tubes will required a standard priming, but Aluminum frames will require a self-etching primer.
Clearcoats are a good idea, as they add durability and shine--the best spraycan clearcoats are two-stage clearcoats.
Personally I use a 2K spray can clear coat like this. You can get it at the link or from a local auto paint shop.
https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Refinishing-Permanent-Surfaces-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=2k+clear+coat&qid=1662915121&sprefix=2k+clear%2Caps%2C98&sr=8-3
I use the whole can to coat a typical guitar body, and maybe the neck as well. It is a 2K so if you follow the instructions it will still cure quickly even if it is on thick. I know a lot of purists will gasp at 'thick' finishes on guitars but for me on an electric it is not a big deal.
So one could even go with two cans. But, start with one, and if it is enough to sand flat then you are OK. If not, get another one. The smoother the base coat paint is, the less clear you will need all else being equal. Like with painting anything, prep is very important.
With vintage computers, after how many repairs and replacements is it still the original computer?
In this picture, the MacTV not he RIGHT is 100% original stock.
The one on the LEFT, has an original MacTV front bezel, the back comes from a 550 (painted). The motherboard is a MacTV.
I had an old Performa 550 that was damaged in shipping, seller gave me 100% refund and I painstakingly pieced it back together with ABS cement. I also had a front bezel for MacTV that I bought on eBay. So is this a MacTV or a 550? or something beautiful and new?
Thanks to u/womtp246 who did this post on painting his MacTV. He pointed me to this paint which is a perfect match for the MacTV!
You have the wrong clearcoat. You need something that has a 2 part mixture and becomes "activated". The over the counter spray cans of clear dont hold up to gas. The pros use a mix your own kind of gun and mix in the clear coat with a hardener. This is the secret to clearcoat that can handle a gas spill at the pump. If you dont want to get a pro setup (or a cheapo spray setup for hundreds) then go buy a rattle can that has a button on the bottom that when pressed, has a 30-45 min clock until the paint dries in the can itself.
You want this brand if you want just a rattle can to try again. Just sand down your top coat a little, apply another coat or two of base if needed, then wipe with a tack cloth and spray your clear, let it cure for a few days longer than specified on the label and youre good to go.
After sanding i finished with two layers of clear-coat
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY
I have heard that clear-coating isnt very effective for headlight but im going to try and see for myself. It usually hazes up after a year so here's hoping.
Absolutely correct - 2K Spray Max is quite decent, and certainly the BEST clear you can get if you have to go with rattle cans.
Sand the paint an re clear, if you use anything other than 2k clear it will fade and dull quickly
Spray Max 2K High Gloss Finish Clear Coat Spray Paint | Car Parts and Repair Refinishing Clear Coat for Permanent Sealing of Coated Surfaces | 3680061 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NBS4MPBYX1VQGT5ZA153?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
1) Remove hood (2 10mm bolts on each side). Mark/etch where the hinge was located for easy alignment later.
2) Remove remaining clear coat. You can do it by hand if you don't have power tools.
3) Use Clear 2k. This is not your regular clear coat sold in the store. It'll cure extremely hard and make the hood look brand new. https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Refinishing-Permanent-Surfaces-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY
4) Wait a few hours and put the hood back on. Clear 2k cures fast and is not reusable so toss the can after you're done.
Tips: Paint the hood on your lawn if it's not windy/humid. Otherwise lay down plastic sheeting and spray in a covered outdoor area.
You're probably going to want to use something like a 2k clear.
I'd let it cure for a while, sand it all down to base (touch it up if needed) and get clear with a catalyst if you're going to use a can.
These spray a little better than your standard rattle can, and the clear itself will cure/harden. You'll probably need 2-3 cans for something this big. You want to keep a wet edge and overlap on the passes so you don't get those tiger stripes you're seeing there.
Compressor and a cheap gun is prob. the most efficient way to go but I know not everyone can do that.
VHT SP888 Red Nite Shades - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005257R0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ENTT088W9E20NZ76ADEJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I used this to get rid of the clear tail light look on my 2012 Impreza. Also used it on my e30 to get rid of the giant ugly reverse lights, and amber signals. They might make it in a black, I’m not 100 percent sure. It’s really easy to do, hard to fuck up. And the darkness goes by coats.
I've only used the OG plastidip stuff (though buy it locally, it's usually cheaper) and it has worked great for me. I'll try and upload some pics a little later of a few of my cases.