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My son tried using a double-bass pedal from his regular drums on the Alesis Nitro kick pad, but the pad was too small. His double bass pedal clamped directly below one of the beaters, and the other one didn't hit. I don't know if all double bass pedals are like that, or if some have the clamp centered between the beaters, or if that would work anyway. Where the clamp is located and how far apart the beaters are would be two things you'd need to look into before buying a double pedal. If you have a music store near you, you could take your pad with you to see if any double bass pedals they have available would work.
Since we already had an unused single pedal, we bought a second kick pad, the Yamaha KP65 Electronic Drum Kick Tower. There are others on Amazon as well. It's plugged into the aux Tom input. That's a different option you might not have considered. That was cheaper than the double bass pedals I saw, but if you don't already have a spare single pedal, you'd have to take that cost into account.
If you want my thoughts on it, come back in a day or two and I’ll share how I like it. But straight off the bat I can tell you this, the construction was kinda annoying, and it’s a tiny bit unstable since the CSL pedals only have 2 mounting holes instead of 4. To counteract this, I added in the 2nd mount bar. It doesn’t screw into the pedals, but it still provides a lot of support. Now the pedals barely move when using them. The very slight instability shouldn’t be an issue for me. Keep in mind, this is only if your pedals have 2 mount holes instead of 4. If they have 4 it’ll likely be fine.
The mounting positions are also adjustable, so it’ll most likely fit almost every pedal set. I did need to use the black cylinders that came with the CSL pedals in order to mount the pedals as the mounting holes of the CSL pedals are not leveled with the bottom of the pedal plate. And the screws that came with this mount were sufficient, although there were 2 scenarios where I had to use a nut (included with the mount) to shorten the length of the screw.
All in all, this mount seems like it’s going to be worth the $80. I’ll confirm this in a few days.
Thanks!
I did look at locking wheels and those chair glide feet you linked but in one of my experiments I wedged some boxes between the back of my chair and the wall but while that stabilized the chair, the pedals then began slipping around. So I was looking for a solution that solved both problems.
I contemplated trying to build something like this, but given the price of wood these days I figured I'd save myself some money and effort and go with a premade solution, so I wound up ordering the Pein Pedal Mount. I came up with the idea to use the strap to hold me over until it arrives. :)
Can't comment much on cymbals but I had the Yamaha KP65 kick drum and 'upgraded' to the Roland KD-10. I didn't notice any difference in noise level at all (both still quite noisy) although the KD-10 has a nicer strike feeling.
I'm using a felt beater but I've seen the quiet beater recommended so that may help you if you're prepared to put up with the difference in feel. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Roland-KDB-200-Practice-Kick-Beater/dp/B07DXZS55B
If your only concern is the pad noise impinging on yourself then I've found that drumming headphones are great for blocking out all external noise.
No problem. Keep in mind this pedal doesn’t have the classic heel rest, compared to this one that does Drum Workshop, Inc. 3000 Series Bass Drum Pedal, Double (DWCP3002) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H8Z732/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZYX43PBZ6PJXF37S4QW4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It all depends on your preference.
We have an Alesis Nitro, and the beater pad is kind of small. We have a double pedal for real drums, but they are aligned with one right over the center of the clamp, and the other off to the side, and there was no way to get it to clamp and have both of the pedals hit.
We also had a spare single drum pedal, so it was cheaper to get this second kick pad than to buy a different double pedal. The Nitro doesn't have a second bass pedal input either, but it has an aux cymbal input and an aux tom input, and we were able to plus the second kick pad into the aux tom input. So we have double bass pedal using two kick pads.
~~So does your Forge have aux inputs you can use?~~ Just looked at the Forge on Amazon, and it's got the same tom 4 and crash 2 additional inputs as the Nitro. Before I bought the Yamaha, I plugged the Nitro's pedal into each of the aux jacks, just to check that it could detect a kick there. A little light came on on the drum brain, so I figured it was a safe purchase.
The Yamaha kick pad also allows pass through. You can plug your existing pad into the Yamaha, and the cord from there is a stereo cord, so both pads can send a signal to the drum brain. AFAIK, the Nitro doesn't support that input for the bass pedal, so we can't hook it up that way, but maybe your Forge does. (I'm assuming that's how that will work, but I'm not an E-kit expert.)
The Yamaha pad has a 4 inch clamp zone, compared with the Nitro's 3 inch zone, so it's also possible the double pedal would have worked on that, but we've never tried.
I'll also mention that you can use the hi-hat pedal on the Nitro as a second kick pedal, although it's going to feel different.
If you don't want to deal with two kick pads, you can just buy a wider kick pad and get an actual double kick pedal. I did this about 6 months ago and it works out super well, but definitely don't try to put a double pedal against the stock nitro pad because it's definitely not big enough
Here's what I bought from Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001R2RA4E/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XJLLCQ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've never used T3PAs but it seems they're the gold standard for a non-loadcell pedal set, or at least a very popular choice. One thing to consider is that the TLCMs (and probably most loadcell sets) are best hard mounted onto a rig or separate pedal stand (although you can DIY something pretty easily if you get creative) as they can require a lot more force to activate the loadcell, depending on how stiff you want them to be.
I have my TLCMs mounted on one of these since I use an office chair based setup.
I ran the v3’s for awhile at my desk before I got my rig. I ended up using this to mount the pedals and lock the wheels of my chair. It still moved a lot in the front given the force needed on the brake so I ended up just literally screwing the whole mount directly to my floor.
https://www.amazon.com/distance-comfortable-PC-Mac-Linux-Unix/dp/B07N2F9YQN
Definitely get a cockpit/stand. Anything that helps you have a consistent setup. My experience changed so much + my braking & trail braking is more consistent now.
I got this to lock my chair and pedals to the same distance. Only complaint was some edges of this could be sharp
>40 comments
I somewhat solved this with the PEIN pedal mount combined with removing the casters and buying the rubber feet others have mentioned.
The remaining issue I have is, I can still "pry" myself out of the pedal mount chair feet slots if I'm braking too hard and tilting my chair back since they're just sort of a cup preventing horizontal movement but not vertical. Need to figure out how to keep my chair planted to the ground or more rigidly coupled to the pedal mount...
FYI I use the tennis ball beaters for my TD-17... will destroy the head a lot less slower, plus they're fun and also sound good on regular kick:
So if I were to mount them, then something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2F9YQN
I assume just making a base/mount out of wood would work too. Same with leaving the pedals on the floor and making sure they're pressed up against the wall.
You already have a great wheel base and now pedals. A foldable cockpit or wheel stand should be next imo. [this may help] depending on your budget(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2F9YQN/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_T4CA4SMZYBVQF80A0XPY_0)
This stand would work. You could diy yourself something cheaper just from wood though.
This is the best answer until you get a rig.
https://www.amazon.com/distance-comfortable-PC-Mac-Linux-Unix/dp/B07N2F9YQN
I use this and it works very well. Sharp edges so get you some water shoes!
I placed them an angle resting on a baseboard with the lightest spring. This was ok for a few weeks and not a ton of movement just not completely comfortable with an office chair. Last night i connected them to a PEIN mount from Amazon and it’s a total game changer as it holds an office chair in place as well. https://www.amazon.com/distance-comfortable-PC-Mac-Linux-Unix/dp/B07N2F9YQN/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=pein+pedal+upgrade&qid=1659898347&sr=8-1#
Buying this or DIYing something similar will allow you to use them just fine.
I use to use the KT-TBB from KAT Percussion with my bass Cajon.
Go with the TLCM and then something like this, or diy something similar, it wouldn't be difficult to find/make a solution.
The standard Playseat Challenge pedal mount is good for what it is but isn't built for load cell braking forces. After some tinkering I decided to use this pedal mount instead. Bonus is it comes off easily for storage and can be used with swivel chairs etc if desired. It's good quality and works well, but does cost $70 though.
Pedal Mount PEIN (upgrade) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2F9YQN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_3KVV21DDY0X3R4FBPACH
I use the vrs pedals mounted to a 3/4” wood board and this and it works. Not as stiff as a cockpit and I’ll get legit rig soon but for now this is more than sufficient and I’m using the stiffest spring available.
Sorry for offtopic, can't comment on technique, I'm not experienced enough.
I got my TD17KVX from second hand and it had nasty looking bass drum trigger. Previous owner didn't keep it good looking.
First: use plastic side of the pedal.
Second: buy a protective patch (I have one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Evans-Double-Pedal-Patch-Black/dp/B0002D0DWK, maybe different one, but same manufacturer).
Both real and electronic drums can use such patches.
I have this and it works perfectly. Maybe it would work for you as well?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07N2F9YQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This beater helps dramatically KAT Percussion KT-TBB Silent Strike Bass Drum Beater https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DDXM77A/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_ZR8KA5YECX1XCNH2GF9S
This patch protects the mesh head of your kick pad and also reduces noise a bit further Evans EQ Double Pedal Patch,... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002D0DWK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Put a sheet of SONOpan on top of your foam tiles and another sheet in between them. Put carpets or mats on top. Done.
Someone suggested these in another thread. I bought a couple of them, and they are waaaayyy quieter than the stock DW beaters on my KD-10.
Have been using KP65's myself for 10+ years now, I wouldn't worry about felt. That's mostly an issue only on mesh kick towers. The KP65 has a sturdy rubber compound that is very resistant to even extreme wear.
I've used basic Pearl beaters (felt-side), and switched to these beaters once I got my demon drives. These things are amazing -- still get full responsiveness, low noise, minimal rebounding.
This is your best bet to quiet the kick pad:
https://www.amazon.com/KAT-Percussion-KT-TBB-Silent-Strike/dp/B00DDXM77A/
It helps but the issue is not noise but vibrations. Even with this there will still be lots of vibrations going through the floor from the pedal. A riser will be the only way to completely eliminate the issue.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2F9YQN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
^ Heavy recommendation for this thing. Looks good and allows you to use load cell pedals if you dont have a dedicated cockpit.
If you're using a plastic beater you can get a kick drum patch like this
I did this and immediately noticed a difference. I also built a tennis ball riser and whilst its your upstairs neighbour complaining, something that would definitely reduce the vibrations they may also be hearing.