Not a direct answer to your question, but I would recommend using knifeless tape to get a clean line around that curve. Then you don't need to pull that piece off in the first place.
I think that next time I remove a brake line, I'm going to plug it so it doesn't leak all over. Since I'm to lazy to find the exact threading of the line I may just buy an assorted tapered plug set from Amazon. It's 10 bucks.
40 Pc 1/16" to 3/4" High Temp Silicone Rubber Tapered Plug Kit - Powder Coating Custom Painting Supplies https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XYD2760/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_8T5XXQCG9PW3WMX7E7SP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I wouldn't exactly call it new. Amazon has been selling it since April.
And I would prefer use clear Plasti-Dip if I was just looking for something temporary, like a roadtrip. Mainly because I could buy 3 can of Plasti-Dip Glossifier for almost the same price.
There are vacuum caps that can go over the vacuum tip https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Silicone-Rubber-Protective/dp/B00XYDFW8K/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?keywords=vacuum+cap&qid=1668014726&sr=8-18
An annoying problem with the APO is the silicone plug for the thermometer socket, which has a very tiny prong that is hard to insert (particularly when the oven is hot). Not to mention, some people have found that the plug breaks with use, and Anova can't provide a replacement.
Another thing I worry about is plugging the two pipes in the back of the oven when I clean it using Easy-Off.
So I bought some silicon plugs off Amazon to solve these problems. Admittedly, not the cheapest solution in the world (a 40 plug bag!), but they are on sale at the moment for $9.93.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XYD2760?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Yup, I just use these from amazon just find the right size and it should work.
Cut the end off one of these and you have the same thing that can stand up to the heat
I have these little silicone stoppers that I use for hubble bubble and my rig to keep water from spilling out. Might work for ur purpose, they plug up any hole airtight and it's hard to pull out: https://www.amazon.com/Swpeet-Silicone-Protective-Assortment-Anodizing/dp/B07KJYPGT5/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B07KJYPGT5&psc=1
This Knifeless Tape seems to come highly recommended for making easier, risk-free cuts:
You can see examples of people using it on youtube to get the most out of it.
You needed to remove the brake calipers to change a tire? I understand unbolting them to swing them out of the way, but I'm shocked that you needed to completely remove them.
Get some silicone plugs like they use for powder coating. They're great for stopping brake/fuel/power steering lines from leaking fluid all over the place when you open the system. Would have allowed you to pull the calipers and keep the lines full of fluid. This is the set I use
If it was fine before, but squishy now, the problem is air in the system not brake lines or seals.
The air is probably trapped by the master or the banjo bolt on the master.
Go to your local auto store and grab some car vacuum line caps as they are exactly what are being used here for protection. Amazon has them also, just need the size of the legs width😉. Vacuum line caps
You might try trimming & drilling a silicone plug like they use for powder coating. Some might be found in smaller quantities on Amazon, eBay or a craft or metalwork supply shop.
You will need to get yourself some high temp resistant silicone plugs. The plugs I use can withstand heat of up to 600 degrees F. Here is a link to amazon for a small kit of plugs: https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Silicone-Paint-Powder-Coating/dp/B00HWLU6ZE
I am sure you can find cheaper/smaller kits for smaller projects.
For parts that require more finesse to mask, High temperature resistant masking tape is also something I use often: https://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Masking-Painting-Sublimation/dp/B00UCBIX1A/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00UCBIX1A&pd_rd_r=b7c81255-77f7-11e8-aa12-e9bed29a5105&pd_rd_w=Bk15e&pd_rd_wg=zkX67&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&...
I used the black "sleeve" that came in this kit that is 3/8" ID
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XYDFW8K
I had to disassemble the hot end completely, then slide it over, then cut the hole for the heat break and nozzle, then reassemble. Trying to cut a slit and slide it over didn't work very well.
The rubber caps I got from the local hardware store. Autozone sells them, but the one near my place jacked my cc info once, so I don't go there. I ordered the silicone caps from amazon, something like 8 bucks for 25.
The AC/DC converter should work. + to + and - to - and you are good :)
Too large ESCs cost a little bit more and weight a little bit more, but it's really not a large issue. You can fly with the ones you have selected. No problem.
Again, not an expert in FCs, but I will try. Newer flight controllers have 32-bit processors handling more data and responding a bit faster. As opposed to the 8-bit KK2. In general the hardware is more up to date. I hear people here and on other forums talk very warmly about the FC "naze 32". It seem to me as the most popular modern FC for budget builds.
Liquid tape like this is nice for the exposed metal connectors. You might want the heat shrink tube you linked as well to cover wires if you are soldering them.