https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
Clean with this and leave in to keep the shape and stop them from drying out, and use synthetics for basecoating/drybrushing. A single 15-20 dollar sable brush will go extremely far for miniatures painting if you take care of it and only use it for actual detail painting. It really does make a big difference even for an amateur painter.
Finally, 20 years later the mini companies have picked up on it.
Sable, is a bit of a misnomer now. They throw the word around at anything that is a natural hair brush. The kind of brush you're looking for is a "Kolinsky" type of sable. It comes from these cute little guys. Also commonly called a "Red Sable" The only problem with this term is it's disingenuous. You want to know you're paying for 100% kolinsky sable and not a mix, if you're buying a quality (read: expensive) brush.
Mini painting likes water color kolinsky brushes since they have a big belly and lots of spring. If you've never used brushes like this before you will need to get into good cleaning habits with these if you want to keep them in good condition.
The price point for reaper brushes is too high for me to recommend for first kolinsky brushes. Windsor & Newton have a small set of the series 7 brushes that I've seen in a few hobby and craft stores. I can't find the set on amazon to link you, only to the larger brush sizes. I recommend going with them or something similar to start you off. (expect to pay in the range of 20-25 for about 3~5 brushes.) along with a bottle of Pink soap. To get you in the habit of cleaning those kind of brushes so you get the life out of an expensive brush.
If you take my advice and go for that start, you'll know exactly what you want out of a better brush and if you need the more expensive ones for your painting style when the time comes to replace any of them.
Brush cleaner / conditioner. Also depends on the type of brush / type of paint your using (water acrylics / enamel / alcohol acrylic / etc.).
If it’s a natural hair brush and you used it with oils (enamel) you might be out of luck. If it’s a synthetic though you might be able to resurrect it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/General-Pencil-Masters-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM
Get this stuff. It's made of unicorn tears, will remove all paint residue and will fix your brushes. Friend bought it to me for birthday presents and it's saved 2 brushes I was ready to throw away.
If it has signs of mold it’s a good sign of throwing it away. But they make brush cleaners. this is my fave brand.
Brush soap. It's life changing. I used to use dawn (I use dawn for literally everything) but this is next level stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_P6X1WJNSG7XJ87EN2NVF
And if you mess a brush up, this kinda stuff works wonders, I'm currently using the version from greenstuff world, but they're all pretty much the same.
Concentrated it'll take just about any paint residue/build up off your brush. But I like diluting it a ton (like a teaspoon in 2oz of water) to use as a final rinse at the end of a session.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005M4W1VK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_11X92V5XWJV0PE15JNW2
General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KcfbybB907DS3
I hope that link works. This is what I use to clean my brushes and it works wonders. Also helps condition and keep the brushes in good condition longer. It's inexpensive and a container lasts a long time. Easy to get on amazon or most art supply stores.
Hey OP, you specifically need brush soap. Also for some really gunky brushes you can get some brush restorer. The first is a soap made specifically for paint brushes and the restorer is a clear liquid that can help get paint that is caught in the ferrule. The restorer is great. I bought a set of helping hands and I've revived some really old brushes by just letting them sit in there for a few hours. Winsdor and Newton make the restorer.
Anyways, brush soap is ideal for holding the bristles firm and to help remove paint from between the fibers. You definitely need to get some. Even if you still go through brushes like mad this is just proper brush-hygiene. My cleaning process is to at least clean every brush I used at the end of every painting session. I also clean them when I move to a totally different color (e.g. blues to reds). "The Masters" is a good and very popular brush soap and I also oddly like the scent Amazon Link.
Cheers, PS: Make sure you get the soap wet before you start swiping the brush all up on it. ;)
Edit: PSS: Do not stick your brush in restorer fluid past the ferrule. It will eat away the glue binding everything together and you will have ruined a brush.
My cleaning process:
This last part is easy to do with the Army Painter Wet Palette. The tray keeps the brushes nice and safe, while also creating a decent seal that protects paint on the palette itself from completing drying out. That way I'm not changing sheets every single pain session.
An additional thing you can do is keep the plastic protector that most brushes come with. Think of it as a "cap" that you put back on the brush after cleaning it.
This is good advice, but I would recommend getting a good brush soap, like The Master's and just using that to clean brushes out after an oil session instead of buying a separate set- not only does it erase oil from bristles like a Bellicosa on a pack of Knights, it also gets acrylic gunk out too, and generally restores the performance of a brush.
I don’t know if it’s the best. But it’s what I’ve used and had decent results. I used a different thinner flow improver before and it was rubbish.
I use www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001TNR7VM to clean and condition my brushes which keeps them in fab condition too.
You might want a brush cleaner like this it’s worked pretty good so far. And there are plenty of videos that can help on YouTube. That’s all I can really think of that you might need. Welcome to the hobby!
For miniatures I buy these from rosemary and co: https://www.rosemaryandco.com/pure-kolinsky-pointed they’re reasonably priced and good quality.
As for fraying, have you heard of this brush reviver?
It’s basically soap for brushes. One tub will last you a life time seriously
As for your current brush, try cleaning it, you might have gotten paint clogged at the base. Essentially don’t flood your brush with paint, always make sure the paint doesn’t touch the bit there the bristles meet the metal. It’s easy to do by accident.
If that doesn’t work... maybe you could get a tiny pair of scissors and cut the stray bristles off until you can buy a new one >_> that’s what I used to do
Daily, or after each use, use white spirits for enamels and either IPA or water for acrylics. You can also mix a 2:1 water:window cleaner for cleaning water based acrylics.
Once a week, use this soap to ensure the brushes last a long time.
ok I'm about change your BB cleaning routine drastically!!
Get the Masters Brush Cleanser from Amazon, just swirl the soaked BB in it a few times till the cleaner soaks in. Then squeeze a few times & VOILA it will be squeaky clean! I've been washing all my makeup brushes & BB for the past 8 months, It really works.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
Don't let the brushes dry. You can store them in water for a little bit but you don't want to leave them soaking because it'll kill the glue.
I use a large jar about ⅓ full of water and vigorously run the brush through that until all the pigment is out. Use a figure 8 motion. Then I use this soap with water at the sink to clean and condition the brush.
Acrylic paint is really hard on brushes. Much moreso than oil or watercolor. So you need to be on top of keeping them clean.
Brush "soap", and clean your brushes after every session. This will dramatically improve the lifespan of your brushes. I use this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-105-BP-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0027AEANE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536592260&sr=8-4&keywords=acrylic+brush+cleaner
Second, good prep work is key to a good finish. Mold lines suck, and removing them is a significant investment in time. I recently picked up a Citadel tool specifically designed for this task and it is superb! I can't recommend it enough. You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-Citadel-Mouldline-Remover/dp/B00MYUK8VK/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1536592439&sr=1-1&keywords=citadel+mouldline+remover
Second this!
Been using this for years now and it always does the trick. Just make sure you use it before the paint gets too dry on the bristles; especially if you've been drybrushing!
A single Kolinsky sable brush in Size 0 should be plenty to do almost all details. I paint my Reaper minis almost entirely with Winsor & Newton Series 7's in Size 1 and Size 0, and they get pretty much everything I ever need them to, though I don't do anything super fancy. My Size 000 almost never sees any use.
Also, if you're going to spring for Kolinsky sable brushes, or really any natural fiber brush, do yourself a favor and get a thing of Masters Brush Cleaner. It's pretty much a must have, and that 2.5oz container will last you a pretty long time.
Don't ever clean a natural fiber brush with dish soap, paint thinner, or anything like that unless it's a last resort, because you'll ruin it. It strips the fibers of their oils and dries them out, which makes them fray and become brittle extremely quickly. Masters brush cleaner can be used to help save brushes that you've already done that with, by soaping them up in it and letting it sit on the brush for a few days, but it's not going to make them like new if they're too far gone.
You can also use regular hair conditioner on the brushes to help them stay soft and like new. Just get a dab and work it into the bristles, then leave it there. But remember to rinse the brushes well before you use them again.
Treat a Kolinsky sable brush right, and it will last you years and pay for itself 10 times over compared to cheaper brushes.
I’ve replied to brush cleaning before, here’s my last reply:
> This is my method for brushes when using acrylics. Good brush routine should be rinsing/cleaning them often, during a session, not just at colour change. Thin your paints, don’t paint straight from the pot. Don’t let paint dry on the bristles, never fill a brush to the metal ferrule with paint, use two pots for cleaning, first a heavy rinse and then a clean rinse.
> Use a brush cleaner like Master's Brush Cleaner & Preserver: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001TNR7VM/.
> At the end of a session take your brushes to the sink and rinse under warm water and clean with the cleaner, get it amongst all the bristles. It works with non acrylic paints too. Always store a brush with a plastic cap on and always store them horizontally, storing vertically will mean debris will collect in the ferrule and split the brushes.
Agreed. I have smaller brushes but getting a decent load of paint into the brush tip is a pain with ‘micro’ sizes! A good sharp point is worth gold! I suggest thinning your paints more and cleaning your brushes after use with The Masters Brush Cleaner. This is great stuff for keeping your brushes in good form!
My go to brushes are size 2 Kolinski round point brushes. Love ‘em. Reasonably priced from Amazon. With good care they last and last
Welcome to the hobby and enjoy!
> How do I clean testors enamel paint off the brush once I’m done?
2 step process: 1. Clean using enamel thinner (get the cheap DIY store stuff for cleaning). Use 2 pots, one for deep cleaning (it’ll get dirty quick) and the other for final cleaning (it’ll take a lot longer to get dirty). 2. Weekly, clean the brush using a conditioner like this one. Just follow the instructions. It‘ll keep your brushes in good condition for quite long.
> Would a regular surgical mask be sufficient if I am only painting my model with brushes?
If the room is well ventilated, yes. Open a window a view inches while any jars are open. Clean outside or in the garage if possible. Dispose of paper towels or rags quickly if cleaning in your room.
Otherwise, get a respirator, but still, keep the fumes out by removing things while they dry.
> Should I use the testors enamel primer for their enamel paint?
What cleaner do you use? I use link below.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-105-BP-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0027AEANE/
Could also just be a shit brush like the people are suggesting in the thread. Final question is what paints do you use with it? Metal paints always fuck up my brushes.
If you don't already have a good brush cleaner/preserver like 'The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver Soap', you should probably get some. It's pretty amazing stuff. It's surprising how much paint it takes out of a 'clean' brush.
That being said, that's a really inexpensive Tamiya brush. It may be beyond hope. If it's paint buildup in the bristles that's making it spread, a good clean may relax it. If not, start with the brush soap on your replacement brush and treat it really well. It's one thing for a $3 brush to go bad, it's entirely another when you buy a fancy $25 brush and that happens.
By the way, don't buy a $25 brush unless you just really want one, the Tamiya brushes can work just fine...ultimately it's more about the painter and not the tool. A good painter can get good results from a $3 brush, a poor painter cannot get a good result from any brush. You'll know if/when the quality of the brush will affect your results.
I spend a lot on expensive brushes, I’m not the best miniature painter but enjoy trying. When you’re spending ~£10-£15 a brush, I try and look after them.
I’ve replied to brush cleaning before, here’s my last reply:
> This is my method for brushes when using acrylics. Good brush routine should be rinsing/cleaning them often, during a session, not just at colour change. Thin your paints, don’t paint straight from the pot. Don’t let paint dry on the bristles, never fill a brush to the metal ferrule with paint, use two pots for cleaning, first a heavy rinse and then a clean rinse.
> Use a brush cleaner like Master's Brush Cleaner & Preserver: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001TNR7VM/.
> At the end of a session take your brushes to the sink and rinse under warm water and clean with the cleaner, get it amongst all the bristles. It works with non acrylic paints too. Always store a brush with a plastic cap on and always store them horizontally, storing vertically will mean debris will collect in the ferrule and split the brushes.
I guess it works on the same principle, yes.
It's basically a system that let's you quickly change your paint water while painting. Usually lasts me a whole session.
A bit bulky, but a great QoL item.
https://www.amazon.com/Masterson-Rinse-Well-rinse-well/dp/B0017880ME
I know GreenStuffWorld recently launched a similar, slimmer product, but the amazon link looks like the one I got.
I always use a cleaner like this after I paint
Also you should check some guides on how to care for brushes. I really like squdimars guide to brushes. I started following his tips with a new set of brushes and my brush game is better than ever, always have a nice pointy tip
Excellent work! Using Action Force figures to create retro “Action Force” is brillant. Fantastic job on all the small details.
BTW, if you want to safely remove the Cobra logo on the BAT, you can use Windsor & Newton brush cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Brush-Cleaner-Restorer/dp/B005M4W1VK
That works well for me when I want remove paint. I wet a cotton swab with it and rib the area of paint I want to remove.