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You use a spanner wrench or more specifically one for camera and lens repair like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Andoer-Professional-Tips10-100mm-Hexagon-Olympus/dp/B00QRPWCN0/ref=sr_1_23
Use the points in the vent holes and carefully ease it open. It is most likely stuck because the battery has leaked and corroded it from the inside. If you have to resort to penetrating oil only use a tiny amount and apply it to the join a drop at a time with a needle.
If the vent holes are too small use a pin drill bit ; https://www.amazon.com/Pin-Vise-Precision-Jewelry-0-6-3-0mm/dp/B07FJ6VD2P/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2G5SUSFQ1UDPO&dchild=1&keywords=pin+drill+bits
That looks like it's under the front element. With a spanner wrench, you should be able to get the element out and clean it - hydrogen peroxide, then lens cleaner. There may be spores lurking in there, some people say they can get into other gear (but then, the air is full of spores). Some people say that putting the lens in full sun for a few hours so light (UV) is getting all through the elements can kill it.
Fungus can eventually eat into the lens coating (called "etching") and that can't be repaired. You'll only know when you clean it. OTOH, lens probably is only worth a few bucks?
Will it affect images? Good chance, especially in situations with lots of flare (sun or light sources in the pictures), only way to tell is to test it. I have an old canon lens that was really etched by fungus, but it looks gorgeous, sort of old-school diffusion look.
I just got a cheap one from amazon, similar to this one. So far it worked great, no damage on the tips and the bent tips helped me a lot (i often need them bent outward when I'm somewhere in the lens).
Depending on the severity of the damage to the threading and your willingness to put strain on the lens, I’ve had a lot of luck with the tool linked below. I’ve used it to tension out broken/dented filters when restoring vintage lenses.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Camera-Repair-Adjustment-Construction/dp/B07NJS1RML
Aside from sending it to a professional, I really cannot think of a better option.
I’ve found that the glass elements in lenses tend to attract sharp objects, so I’ve made it a point to never use any tool that I couldn’t stand tapping the glass with. I would really suggest not cutting the ring.
Removing the button was a pain in the a**.
I used relative fine pliers. That worked, but the brass got scratched a bit.
If you have a 3D printer, you could try to print a tool that grabs all the holes at once. Or something like this could be better than pliers.
I've never, ever seen fungus on the outside of a lens. Can you actually feel it with your fingers, or is it under the front element? Almost all the fungus I've dealt with is on the back side of the front element - usually you can get the element off with a spanner wrench and clean it. The notches on the black ring that surrounds the front glass are for a spanner wrench.
You can use a tool like this https://www.amazon.com/DSLRKIT-Repair-Filter-Ajustment-Steel/dp/B00SYBYTZO That's just an example, there is tons of these available. If you use "lens vise", filter thread repair or something similar in google/YouTube you'll find a lot of videos and websites that describe how to use these.
I got a $14 one from Amazon; people pooh-pooh that and say you have to get the micro-tools one, but it works just fine, esp. if you'e not repairing lenses 24-7. I really can't see how one could be significantly better than this one, at the same size, etc.
I got a set like this Neewer Professional Spanner from Amazon, not great but worked well for me so far. Also used it on a few lenses with success.
Thank you sir! Here is the tool! very helpful. I just put a cardboard cutout in the lens so it couldn’t get accidentally scratched and it worked wonders. It takes a lot of time and finessing though. There are also YouTube videos available on how to use the tool. Good luck!
Fotasy M39 to Sony mount adapter under $9 and free shipping with Amazon Prime. Can't you return the M42 adapter and buy the correct one?
I have the M39 to Fuji x-mount and Minolta MD to Fuji x-mount adapters from Fotasy and they work great.
Solvent might work - don't use acetone, and I'd try an alcohol before WD-40. Dribble some 99% isopropyl or some grain alcohol ("Everclear" type stuff) and wrap it in plastic wrap to keep it from evaporating. Might take several applications.
If the cap and the camera bottom plate are metal - if the alcohol doesn't work, you can try touching a hot soldering iron around the circumference.
If that doesn't work, you may need to buy a lens spanner wrench and drill two tiny holes in the thing and crank it loose, but do a good alcohol soak before, like a day or two wrapped in plastic and re-applying every few hours. Chances are it's full of rotten battery, you'll need to get the remains of the battery out, clean it all up, clean the corrosion from the battery contacts (probably very fine-grit emery paper, like 1000 grit) and test it. Battery corrosion loves copper wire, it can travel up inside wire insulation and eat the wire up while ignoring the insulation, so the wires can look fine but there's no connection.
No prob, we all want to succeed at this stuff - and failing gets pricey - OTOH, Tim Rudman (in his "Master Printing Course" book, which you should 100% get, it's freaking killer and out there used!!) lists darkroom equipment and includes "a really big trash can - if you're not failing, you're not trying".
You definitely need a longer lens for 6x7 - the EL Nikkor 80mm will do up to 8x8, but I'd look for the 105, it's less known and a great lens. I find with the 80, 6x7 negs need to be perfectly centered to not vignette a bit in the tall corners when printing big. To swap lenses, find the instructions for your enlarger or do a post here with the specific model. You may need a cheap spanner wrench to get the retaining ring off, if it uses a ring. (Cool print, too, I seem obsessed with ruined things!)
Pro-level enlarging glass has 6 elements, generally El-Nikkor, Rodenstock "Rodagon" and Schneider Componon-S (the "S" is important, non-S may be cheaper glass). Hobbyist lenses have 4 or 5 elements but you may not see a huge difference in smaller prints. Some Minoltas and Fujis are 6 elements, but the three brands I listed are a little easier to know you've got a good one.
Fungus will definitely light up in bright scenes. If it's in the front element, it's usually an easy fix since the 90 doesn't have a floating element. You use a rubber sink stopper or Fernco plumbing connector - any kind of rubber ring that you can push against the name-ring on the lens (the disc that says "Mamiya C" and so on) to unscrew it. Just take the lens to the hardware store and look at the Fernco stuff and find one that sits on the disc without touching the glass.
You push the rubber against the ring and unscrew it - you might need a spanner wrench to lift the front element out, then clean it and hopefully it isn't etched. You can also clean the front element of the lens group under the front, and blow any stray dust from the interior. I've never had an RB lens with fungus any deeper than that.
I've bought RB lenses cheap because they had a spot of fungus and had them like-new in ten minutes, it's really worth checking out vs. buying another used lens with unknown history.
Could be, though fungus usually has a tendrily-webby look. Fungus goes dormant if there's not enough humidity to feed it, and UV light can kill it or drive it into dormancy. But if it grows, it can eventually etch the lens surface which usually means a trashed lens.
To get the front element off, if you feel up to it. Usually the front plate with the logo/etc. unscrews by holding a rubber plug against it. You can buy a set of specialty lens repair plugs, or go the the hardware store and find a rubber plumbing coupler (like a Fernco) that fits on the face without touching the glass, press it against the facing and unscrew it. If it won't budge, dribble some alcohol into the gap. If there are two holes or slots that are parallel, you use a lens spanner wrench to unscrew it.
When that comes off, the element may be able to be lifted out, or there may be a locking rings with slots/holes for the spanner wrench. Clean the element with 99% isopropyl or grain alcohol and give a final polish with a clean microfiber cloth; blow all the dust out of the inside of the lens and re-assemble it.
If you've got steady hands and patience, there is a tool called a "Lens vise", which if used carefully, should be able to restore that to the point where you can use filters again.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Camera-Repair-Adjustment-Construction/dp/B07NJS1RML
I stress care and patience, because if you do it wrong, you run the risk of making things much worse.
But I was able to repair the filter ring on my EF 100mm f/2.8 macro, which is one of my favorite EF lenses, so it does work.
I the beginning I used something like like this with some tape covering the pointy end. Later I switched to using circlip pliers.
I have screwed and unscrewed it many times now, in the beginning it did slip once or twice so the ring (not the light) has some small scratches. But with the experience I gained after doing it so many times, the slipping didn't happen anymore. I will probably get some new retaining rings next time I order a light.
I have pretty large (2" wide field) eyepieces, so I purchased a camera lens dew heater and just wrap it around the eyepiece directly. The eypieces are smaller than a camera lens so it wraps around a bit but still works. This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LGN222F
They are power hungry. I connect it to a 10,000 mah cell phone power bank and have gone 4 hours or so and think I have a little less than 50% left. It would run dry in an all nighter.
I have mostly ran it on medium, but haven't really tested low yet. It might work and use less current.
It's called fungus, not mold - I'd clean it or have it cleaned, as fungus can grow over time (if your environment is dry, you can put the lens out in the sun for a couple hours which won't necessarily kill the fungus but will make it dormant) and will eventually etch the element for permanent damage. I can't tell if this is some rare/pricey pro lens or a consumer zoom that could be replaced for forty bucks, but fungus under the front element is fairly common. If there's not a ring that adjusts the front element (a floating-element control, I doubt it for a 35mm zoom), they're usually easy to get into.
This lens looks like you'd need a rubber plug to remove the ring with the text on it (you apply pressure while turning the plug) - you can go to the hardware store and find a Fernco plumbing coupler that's the right size. The front element is under that, and it probably has a metal ring with two notches that takes a lens spanner wrench. IF the front element just lifts right out, you're good to clean it - if things look more complex, like it's part of a group or something, YMMV, but very often the front element lifts out on its own.
You can clean it with alcohol (like 99% iso or even Everclear/grain alcohol) or lens cleaner, you shouldn't need anything more. Some people use hydrogen peroxide on fungus, but alcohol will remove it usually. Blow off any dust, gently clean it, polish with a microfiber. Blow as much dust out of the lens barrel as you can, re-assemble without leaning over it and raining more dust in.
It looks like you can take out the rear element or rear group simply, with a spanner wrench. that's what the two notches in the close-up photo are for. From there, make sure to note which way the lens goes in (concave vs. convex) and try cleaning it and the back of the front element or group. A little suction cup can be handy to lift elements like this out.
I used that tool that I think they use on camera lenses. Like this Neewer Camera Lens Openning Repairing Tool Kit Includes: 10-100mm Lens Repair Set with 3 Tips, 6 Screws and 2 Hexagon Wrench for Canon Nikon Sony Olympus DSLR Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734PH87W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y9GBWFZHH9W9248YZNZC
That will not work on a Olight bezel.
They're not threaded.
I have one of these tools to take apart stuff like that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QRPWCN0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It sounds like this is exactly what you need.
Consider a 10w Lens heater.
It's used to keep telescopes and cam lenses warm, but they pitch it as multi-purpose. Now, I'm not thinking it's gonna keep my tea hot, but it could stave off freezing on the bird feeder.
Oh, btw... here is the one I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LGN222F?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
I used an old 10,000 mAH cell phone battery for a couple hours one night and it burned through about 50% of the battery. I had it first on high setting, then on medium. Need to try low next time. When you put your eye up to the eyepiece, there is a noticeable electrical smell coming out of the eyepiece strap. I'm thinking of moving it down on the eyepiece next time to test how well it works a bit further from my nose...
An adjustable version of this is confusingly called a "spanner wrench"; here's the one I use: Neewer Professional Curved Tips DSLR Camera Lens Spanner Wrench Repairing Opening Tool Stainless Steel for Most DSLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5F73GA/
Just some kind of dirt/crap - it looks kind of foam-ey, and most RBs mirror damping foam is like stale toast nowadays.
Take a flashlight and see if you can figure out where it is in the element stack. If it's around the front element - and if the lens is not a floating element lens (with the extra focusing ring at the filter end), you can probably clean it out easily. You take off the name ring (the front ring with "Mamiya 90mm" etc on it) with a rubber stopper; you want a rubber ring that doesn't touch the glass but rests on that ring. I've used rubber plumbing couplers (Fermco, available at any hardware store), take the lens with you and find the size that works). You push down and turn that to unscrew the name ring.
You might need a spanner wrench to get the front element off, can't recall, but just lay the lens on a clean towel, take off the element, and clean out the inside of that area with an air blower (I see a fair amount of crap in there). Use lens cleaner for stuff that won't come off, and re-assemble. Don't lean over it when it's open and rain dust down in there. Usually under the front element is a sealed group of lenses that you can't get into.
That little pig nose lookin’ screw head at the center of the advance lever. You need a spanner wrench and use those two holes to unscrew it. 95% chance it’s lefty loosey but some cams have lefty tighty so be careful.
And keep track of what order everything comes apart in!
The lens board depends on the size of the rear of the lens itself. Many are 39mm, so you just take your old lens off and stick the other one on if that's the case. A lens spanner is recommended to get the retaining ring off and on. If the rear of the lens (where the threads pass through the board) is bigger or smaller, you'll need a different board - and if you go back and forth between formats, it's nice to have each lens on its own board.
23C boards are just simple squares with a hole in the middle. I think they're the same board as the MX 4x5 series, too, and eBay is full of them. You can also get a square of 1/8" aluminum or thin plywood and a hole-saw kit and drill the hole size that works.
See if anything is a ring with 2 notches - you need a spanner wrench for that. Sometimes people make them by driving two nails through a scrap of wood, etc. Smaller discs with 2 holes can be removed with snap-ring pliers. Sometimes you can bend a paperclip for those.