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Not videos but books.
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Wheelers-Bible-2nd-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760335303/
The catch phrase is "Slow as possible, fast as necessary".
Really most of the knowledge has to be in the spotter. The driver just has to follow directions.
If you've ever had a good spotter and a bad spotter the difference is night and day.
Don't you know that you can Build Your Own Sports Car for as Little as £250 and Race It! ^price ^of ^the ^book ^not ^included
yes indeed about the suspension! And actually i already have a book that is well reviewed in my amazon Shopping Cart that i can't wait to get my hands on.
https://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Your-Car-Handle/dp/0912656468/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
If you're working on turbo engines and you want to modify them, try reading this;
It's very simple, accessible and will give you more than you'll need to know for a long time.
Coming from someone who is very into cars and hungry to learn about them, this book was recently referred to me.
Maximum Boost was a pretty good read on turbo chargers. It goes into a reasonable amount of detail without being unattainable to the average Joe.
I'd love to find something similar for suspension work, myself.
https://www.amazon.com/Build-Your-Sports-Little-%C2%A3250/dp/1859606369
That or any other LoCost building book will get you far.
Not Subaru specific, but Greg Banish's Engine Management Advanced Tuning book is a great starting point. I would also recommend learning about engines (in general), Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals is another staple to get started. You can find many online resources by searching for FSAE <topic>, like FSAE Intake Manifold, or FSAE Exhaust.
> I am just starting out so anything helps !
Automotive manufacturers spend millions of dollars in R&D to place the intake in the most efficient place possible so changing that doesn't really help. Most cheap CAIs just intake hot air which reduces power. Most CAIs that actually work are very very expensive and could be DIYd by a competent person for much cheaper. None of it matters if you can't add more fuel to the added air density. Your ECU may add that if it can measure the change properly, but most can't.
I really think this book and it's worth a read if you're interested in learning how things work in cars.
It's firmly in the weeds but you'll learn all of the sensors that an engine uses, how engines calculate fueling, how the ECU controls outputs like fuel injectors and VVT. If you want to learn, it's a really good source.
Yeah you need a cat as well, otherwise when you put in the downstream oxygen sensor it'll throw codes and revert to limp mode.
At the risk of being patronizing, basically the ECU says "I think I should have this value coming from my upstream O2 sensor" The O2 sensor sends that data to the ECU. Then the ECU checks the efficiency of the catalytic converter expecting specific numbers. If there's no cat then the numbers that the ECU expects from the downstream sensor will be off and at best you'll throw a code and be down on power and fuel economy.
Moss miata sells affordable high-flow replacements that are bolt-in fit. And just because your state doesn't do emissions tests doesn't make it legal to run a vehicle without a cat. Now, you do what you want. You're (probably) an adult. But a test pipe is a tool for tuning a car because when you're tuning you want to tend on the rich side because it keeps cylinder temps lower which is safer. But this excess fuel in the exhaust can destroy catalytic converters. So you thow in a test pipe to preserve your cat. You'll see all kinds of modded cars running test pipes on the street so they can shoot flames and dumb shit, but the idea was always about creating a working vehicle.
Check this book out if you're interested in learning all kinds of stuff about modifying modern EFI engines. I know, I know, books are dumb and boring. But it's really good information.
Nope - you're good. Their products come with a million mile warranty. You can always reinstall the factory airbox if you change your mind later - relatively easy to do. Also, check out my book: https://www.amazon.com/Hacks-Mods-Dummies-David-Vespremi/dp/0764571427/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=vespremi&qid=1608830130&sr=8-1
Better off buying this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Modify-Automotive-Engine-Management-Systems/dp/0760343454/
Same exact book, just 9 years newer.
Read the whole comment again. Key words are "not the same." Again, you need to reference the compressor wheel flow ratings, peak flow capacity, and turbine wheel size vs housing size. The flow chart will show you where in the power band will be vs max boost.
Figure out your goals vs what hp your engine can handle, and get a forced induction unit sized to your goals.
There's an excellent book for those who are just starting out: https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606
Come over and check out /r/4x4
A bunch of the things you list are intertwined really.
Tire diameter and how aggressive the tread is is usually the most important. Next is getting power to those tires. That is where 4x4 and lockers come in.
But to fit bigger tires you often have to modify suspension. Keeping those tires on the ground is also important, so suspension matters there too (articulation and wheel travel).
Engine power usually really depends on terrain. If you are crawling rocks it's not really a factor. If you driving in sand and mud it can make a big difference.
Smaller and lighter is better for most terrain.
The reason large vehicles are popular off road is that they can usually fit much bigger tires and already have heavy duty drivetrain / steering / suspension components.
The best of both worlds is a custom vehicle: small truck or suv with heavy duty drive train and suspension.
And most of the things that make a vehicle good off road compromise it on road. A lot of the equipment is expensive and heavy. Which is why not many modern manufacturers make good hardcore off road vehicles, or if they do only in special trim packages.
If you are looking to follow you interest here, I recommend this book (no affiliation):
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Wheelers-Bible-2nd-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760335303
How did you guys learn car mechanics, aka how suspension, brakes, diff and other stuff works? I want to learn it so I can be a more complete driver. I am on the edge of buying this book
https://www.amazon.com/Chassis-Engineering-Building-Performance-Handling/dp/1557880557
and it looks promising, although hearing other opinions does not hurt.
Edit: I am a sim racer.
Rollover from last week:
>How did you guys learn car mechanics, aka how suspension, brakes, diff and other stuff works? I want to learn it so I can be a more complete driver. I am on the edge of buying this book https://www.amazon.com/Chassis-Engineering-Building-Performance-Handling/dp/1557880557 and it looks promising, although hearing other opinions does not hurt.
Edit: I am a sim racer.
by u/MusaDoVerao2017
Came he to say the exact same. I did a lot of research back in the day and settled on a 64' but iirc the best options were around the 1960 - 1968 but I couldn't tell you the reasons. I spent a lot of time on the samba (as the rest) but I also pretty much memorized the book Baja Bugs and Buggies. https://www.amazon.com/Baja-Bugs-Buggies-VW-based-off-road/dp/0895861860
These two books are a great place to start.
The first book goes over some of the basic stuff like what each sensor does and the overall process of tuning. The second book goes a bit more in-depth and discusses things like how to properly create your base fueling/efficiency map, why injector characterization is so important, why running E85 is beneficial in certain applications, etc.
Other than sitting in on dyno tuning sessions or asking questions to the engine lead, I found these two books one of the best sources of info.
OP, I'd suggest you pick up this book by Keith Tanner.
It gives very detailed instructions on how to do most repairs/upgrades on a Miata. Very much worth the $16 from Amazon.
In my Build Diary I posted a lot of weld photos, I have been documenting my welding skill from No Skill to today (a little skill).
I suggest you read the "Buggy Bible" http://www.amazon.com/Baja-Bugs-Buggies-VW-based-off-road/dp/0895861860
Great book, just reading it now. It covers everything you need to know.
I have a hayne's manual, but I haven't used it at all yet. And I've done a lot of work so far (all fluids, replaced bushings, swapped subframe, clutch master and slave cylinder, rebuilt shifter, etc.). There are so many tutorials online, a simple google search will tell you everything you need to know. My favorite resource is the miata.net garage - http://www.miata.net/garage/ . I've also referenced this book - http://www.amazon.com/Mazda-Performance-Projects-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760316201 by keith from flyin' miata a couple of times. It's very well written.
These are the two Banish books I'm most familiar with: Engine Management: Advanced Tuning, Designing and Tuning High Performance Fuel Injection Systems. They're pretty similar but the main difference is obvious from the title: the former is just tuning with a little bit of hardware and the second is about half and half hardware and tuning.
I try to remember that the RPi isn't really targeted at hobbyists, it's really an educational board. There are definitely better options if you're willing to give up the support and community. The Banana Pi is looking pretty good as well as the whole ODROID line. Since I'm not a coding guy I would probably be running a tuning PC program hence the requirement of x86.
Join a 4x4 club. Ask around, see who will teach you.
Or get on some web forums and see if you can find someone local to help.
Start reading:
http://www.amazon.com/Four-Wheelers-Bible-2nd-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760335303
I wanted to build a baja bug with my dad for my first car, but they're just too damn slow to be a decent daily. He had this book that explained pretty much everything. It's probably cheaper than building a hot rod, since this will basically be a beater and all you have to do initially is adjust the ride height, cut down the fenders a bit, and get some off road tires. Then just go crazy from there.
Many referred me to <strong>this</strong> book.
I have very little experience, but I have learned that you need to find out what your known values are (airflow, fuel pressure, timing) and adjust the fuel maps. Knowing exactly what your Air to Fuel ratio is a must. Once you have a target A/F ratio in mind, use your known parameters and adjust your fuel accordingly.
What is the output of your logs?
Jesus Christ son, I certainly hope you never tell this to anyone in a car forum or at a track.
Once you get through the basics and start looking into performance, I would suggest "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. It is pretty much the gospel of turbocharging. Amazon link