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Try this stuff, it's meant for jewelry and dries completely clear. It is a bit pricey but it does last a long time with lots of handling. I've used it on a steel water bottle, so something I was touching and stuff constantly, and it's been a couple years with minimal peeling.
It looks like they've been re scraped but hard to say for sure. There is rust removing solution:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_020QN53ZBH7X92QXTZ9P
I've read people using vinegar also but haven't tried myself.
If the metal hasn't rusted completely through, you might want to try some rust reformer. If it's rusted through, sheet metal and MIG is likely the best option.
Evaporust will clean it up nice. It doesn’t even remove paint.
Evapo-Rust ER004 , The Original Super Safe Rust Remover, Water-based, Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, 32 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRSOJSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KM4XTZQVJ2MQWKV44GEC
Ospho 605 Metal Treatment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C02CDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_TQ97HNQPGHDJGHSY68TM
Brush some of this on, it will slow it down by alot and it’s super cheap
Wear gloves and DO NOT get this in your eyes/mouth
Good input from everyone! Thanks guys!
This ski is my baby and been with me for a long time, I'd love to keep it that way.
I know most of this is common sense to you guys and some items I already do, but I'm stuck in my ways and don't want to forget.
Just want to make sure I continue treating her right :D
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Consensus seems to be:
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- WD40 (inside hull/engine before riding & engine after if large water ingestion)
- Rinse, Rinse, Rinse! (Outside, inside, trailer, car)
- CRC heavy duty corrosion inhibitor (impeller, moving parts, metal that contacts salt water)
- found this Amazon - CRC Corrosion Inhibitor
- Flush (engine water jackets using hose hook up)
POR-15 fanboy here. That is what it was made for. That very problem, in the same area. Buuuuuuut, you have to follow the directions and take precautions around bolts and nuts. All you need is the little small kit on Amazon. Yes, the little baby cans. Get one extra baby can.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077J66P27/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_W2pMEbWK9Q3D4
For after-range cleaning, Windex is not even needed, I used to use it a decade ago. But now just some warm water (just water or sometimes with some Dawn dish soap) works perfectly well to clean off the corrosive salts after a day of running surplus ammo.
After you've rinsed it off, be sure to dry it off thoroughly and then oil.
Since you already have corroded parts, Hoppes 9 works great - let the part soak in it. Use a nylon of brass brush to help scrape some of the corrosion off. Can also use 0000 steel wool to help, especially on the piston face.
If it's deep corrosion and are planning on repainting the kit before or after reassembly, I recommend EvapoRust. You can get a gallon of it and keep reusing it for a number of projects. Just place the part in a bin with some evaporust overnight, and boom, rust is gone. https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66
What /u/moronotron stated. I used Rust-Oleum, Black, 248658 Rust Reformer Spray, 10.25 oz on mine and tossed some Rugged Ridge Floor Liners over it. That's got me held over until I replace the entire body. Oddly Home Depot had the floor liners for the cheapest price.
I have never used this but the idea came to me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0TLQ66/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Reading the reviews, people soak stuff to dissolve rust.
I've read a lot of stuff about phosphoric acid for situations where there's a lot of pitting. You apply it with a brush over the pitted area, and the acid will convert the rust and prevent it from spreading any further. I picked up a bottle of Opsho from my local Ace Hardware for like $15, and so far it's been doing what's advertised. Pitted areas turn black, which means the rust has been converted. I just haven't given it a good test of time to know if's my go-to solution. Just another option, maybe someone else has feedback on it. I used it for the first time on a few areas of an RV with pretty thin gauge metal. I was worried that if I kept grinding, I wouldn't have any metal left to grind.
can I have a moment of your time to talk about our Lord and Savior, Evaporust?
First you need to scrape it, then attack it with a steel wire brush on an electric drill. There is a great product called VHT Rust Convertor, $14. I converts rust into black metal. I swear by this product. Then paint it and use the oversize gasket mentioned elsewhere. If you skip any steps it will just continue to rust under the gasket.
Ok, I would recommend using an epoxy primer then to protect it better than this stuff. I have used a similar Rustoleum product but only on stuff that isn't really exposed to the elements. It scratches off pretty easily. So that's why I'd suggest using an epoxy primer, for better protection against the elements and the salt.
VHT Rust Convertor is amazing. Converts rust to a hardened mineral. Does not hurt paint but try to keep it off the paint anyway. I'd still use a frame saver after. For smaller rust spots I apply it with a small artist's brush.
Pretty cool, the package even has a picture of your trailer hitch! POR-15 40909 Stop Rust Kit, Permanent Corrosion Preventive System, Gloss Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077J66P27/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Xd53FbZ8HTZS0
It seems to last very long and work well compared to others. I bought a can and plan on applying it eventually. Haven't done anything other than touchless washes with underbody sprays. That seems to work great.
Nah I've owned it since 2018 and haven't yet, and I know the previous owner that lived up the street from me also didn't coat it.
I did buy some CRC 6026 to spray whenever I feel like it haha, maybe when I install my downpipe. That seems to be one that actually prevents existing rust from spreading while also lasting a long time through underbody pressure washes to prevent rust further - that's all I do, get a touchless wash once a week or so when the salt is bad.
Amazon Tractor supply has it and wall mart if your lucky
Hit up your closest autoparts or home improvement store and look for a big bottle of evaporust. Pour it in with some small metal pellets like ball bearings, shotgun pellets or bbs or very small nuts. Seal it all up the best you can without your petcock in there. Plan to shake it for like a minute every hour or so and set it back down in a different position. Do this for a few hours up to over a day depending on how much surface rust and flaking is in there. When its all done give it a quick rinse with gas or alcohol.
- scrape and wire brush until all of the flaky thick rust is gone.
- spray this on thick
- soak the bottom and any rust prone crevis of the vehicle with this. it leaves an oily/waxy film the prevents rust, but don't spray over thick rust that needs to cleaned up first.
I would tell you to use Bar Keeper's Friend (the powder form) and a scrub brush or copper scouring pad, but it might just re-rust, so I'd recommend using a rust converter product. You "paint" it on and it chemically alters the rust to a blackish-colored surface (iron phosphate) that you can leave as-is (might re-rust a little bit if there is moisture, but stops rust fairly well) or paint. Some good products are Krud Kutter's Rustex Rust Converter or Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer
rustoleum rust converting primer sounds silly, but drys super fast, its thin, and provides super adhesion to anything you spray over it, and if you just prime it, its a really hard to scratch surface.
Just like the above post strip the paint then use this stuff. If you have a lot of stuff with rust it’s worth picking up. I refurbished a few tools with it Works wonders.
Evapo-Rust The Original Super... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
link without tracker, courtesy of random internet meatsack bot:
This is the way . . . Evapo-Rust ER012 Super Safe Rust Remover – 128 oz., Non Toxic Rust Remover for Auto Parts, Hardware, Antiques | Rust Removers and Chemicals
I would second the POR, you could go other ways like a 2 part epoxy primer, but the area is so small. I normally would of told you to go with POR patch, since its a small job, but the prices right now on it have almost doubled for some reason. So this would be a good kit https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-40909-Gloss-Black-Stop/dp/B077J66P27/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1B08A9MLN7TRT&keywords=por+15&qid=1667335393&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjcyIiwicXNhIjoiNC40MCIsInFzcCI6IjQuMjEifQ%3D%3D&s=automotive&sprefix=por+15%2Cautomotive%2C101&sr=1-7
Just never open POR till you are ready to use it, and never reinstall the cover, unless you put a layer of wax paper or saran wrap between the lid in the can, because other wise you'll probably never get the lid off again, with out damaging the hell out of it.
Or just jack up your car and coat everything you can with lots left after you fix the spots.
Naval Jelly is what you need. It removes the rust but doesn't affect the paint. Leave a cool looking clean bare steel patina too. It will probably take several applications. After the rust is removed you will need to protect the area with the application of something like car wax to prevent future rusting.
https://dsportmag.com/wp-content/uploads/145-023-Tech-RustRemoval-5CloseUp-1024x768.jpg
expose the rust
apply rust converter https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-40909-Gloss-Black-Stop/dp/B077J66P27
Prime
Paint
Rust sucks. One of the reasons I traded in my tiburon for my new Veloster. Same place as yours, all 4 corners. Happened on year 15 of ownership