I second buying books from the country you’re in! I tried to teach myself some throwing in high school using a book published in the UK, and it turned out that much like driving, we typically throw in opposite directions. Plus, I’d only “taught” myself bad habits that I had to be broken of once I was in college. Seek guidance as early as you can! Apart from helping your work vastly and saving money, there’s a lot of dangerous stuff in a ceramics studio that needs to be handled with care. For beginning (or continuing) with glazes, The Complete Guide to Mid-Range Glazes: Glazing and Firing at Cones 4-7 (Lark Ceramics Books) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1454707771/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_xciRFbR6TQJZH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The Ceramic Bible - https://www.amazon.com/Ceramics-Bible-Complete-Materials-Techniques/dp/1452101620/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516500859&sr=8-1&keywords=the+ceramic+bible one of my favorite books.
Offer to help your art teacher clean up or other tasks in exchange for giving you time in the studio, and to glaze your own pieces. If you end up loving clay then you can work towards building a home studio. However if you think you might go away after high school, you may want to hold off on your own studio, as the kiln and other equipment is not easily transportable.
Googling everything is going to take a long time to figure out what applies and does not apply to your work. I would recommend starting with a book, and using search to augment your information. Your library probably has this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Potters-Bible-Essential-Illustrated-Reference-ebook/dp/B01G8U33YK/
Hello, I really like this guide: https://www.amazon.co.uk/20th-Century-Ceramics-World-Art/dp/0500203717
Also, we have product info, photos and blog posts on our webpage (www.rogueandfox.com) if they want to browse and figure out what style they're into. Cheers, Sarah
We fired in an Anagama Kiln, specifically Masakazu Kusakabe's smokeless kiln (plans can be found in this book https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Wood-Fired-Ceramics-Marc-Lancet/dp/0873497422) In this firing we did a reduction cool for 9 hours till about 1550 F. I know that we reached at least cone 12 at some point during our firing. I will need to check the firing notes for more details because I can't really remember much else sorry! We mostly used cottonwood and pine, the cottonwood produces a lot of blue ash. I did use at least four different flashing slips. This head was located behind the bagwall of the kiln. If you want the recipes I can get them to you in a couple of days when I get back to my studio. As for the casting slip I know it is porcelain and I can provide the recipe for that as well if you are interested! I had several other items in this firing that also came out amazingly well if you would like to see pictures of them!?
My absolute favorite is Simon Leach's guide. I read it cover to cover, footnote to credits. It's very informative. Anytime I question something, I turn to it. http://www.amazon.com/Simon-Leachs-Pottery-Handbook-Comprehensive/dp/1617690228
Fara Shimbo's Crystalline Glazes book is by far the best I've found on the subject--and honestly it's one of the best books I've found on glaze chemistry in general. There are lots of books out there on crystals. Most of them cover one or two topics well: colors, firing schedule, glaze formula, application, process, reduction, catch disks and removal, etc. Shimbo's book covers it all with fantastic references for later, when you've got the process down.
A kiln with a controller helps immensely when you are first learning and if you plan to do long firing schedules. It also makes the process easily repeatable.
Electric kilns are great, but you end up having to replace your coils frequently if you take it to ^10 and hold, as is often required for crystals.
Most gas kilns don't come with controllers (they're expensive), so you have to do the firing manually. The zinc in the crystalline glaze volatilizes when introduced to a reducing atmosphere, so you have to keep the kiln in oxidation for the majority of the firing. Gas is great though, because there are no coils to replace and maintenance is next to nothing.
For the colors achieved in this video, you need to reduce after the growth period, on the way down. That means either firing in a gas kiln or setting up an oil drip for your electric kiln (which wears the coils down even faster).
Crystals are a fun process. They take commitment, but they are rewarding. Once you are familiar with firing a kiln, you should definitely give them a go.