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Well then you’d need a smaller valve than I got. The once’s I ordered we’re 1/4 inch and I had to force it over with pliers
2PCS Non Return Check Valve, 1/4 inch (6mm) PVDF Wear-Resistant One-Way Diaphragm Check Valve, High Temperature Resistant, Strong Acid and Strong Alkali Resistant Check Valve for Fuel Gas Liquid Air https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089YVV23M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GF5YD1ZZMCN9A5F8JSG8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have no idea why so many are downvoting you for your water damage comment. You are absolutely right. If you can't see it from the diagram then you just don't know enough about plumbing to even be talking here. As a water restoration specialist for 12 years I can promise you these will and can spill from the top when there is a clog in the drain pipe. This isn't rocket science. I'm going to safely assume that's why amazon recommends you buy this as well.
More than likely the buzzing is coming from the inline check valve, not the ASV. https://www.amazon.com/G-Murdock-Mur-lok-Component-Certified/dp/B0756JWQKF
In this case it's not about air moving through the system, it's about the water "squeaking" through the check valve it's pushing open when it's running.
A way to test this is when you hear the buzzing wiggle the tube near the check valve. If the sound warbles then you've found your source.
I think i may of figured it out..i believe the part is called a "Check Valve "... i will see if i can replace it without having to remove the whole pvc tee with sensor
Thank you for the response.
This is the check valve I am using for both the inlet water line and drain line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756JWQKF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_PF0QQ28Q3GRBEBTGVFP1. I wanted this at both locations because I run on a well water system with a pressure tank and if I lose power it's possible the RO holding tank pressure will exceed the house water pressure (if someone flushes a toilet or something) causing yet another path of backflow.
Dumb question, but what is the point of the air-gap? Do you think I need both the air-gap device you sent me and the check valve? Could I just use one of these things?
Thinking about using this on the air hose to lift from a short distance instead of being so close but I don’t know if it’s gonna work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NPM5P5D/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_i_T3ED8E7VBVNDYHVWSR44
Your check valve is like 90% of the noise. The chunks and bangs anyway.
Silent check valve will change your life. Also only get the spring style. Like this. All others are junk
Campbell Mfg Llc 2" Quietsewage Chk Valve B-0823-20C Well Supply Accessories https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000LXA9RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_GWWVQHET2WA12CHB6DZ2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That’s the unit.
Is this for a sump pump or a sewage ejector pump?
You can hear the water flow back into the pump. Back check valve. Little Giant 89695 CV-10 Condensate Pump Check Valve for VCC, VCM, VCMA and VCL-14/24, 1/4-inch MNPT x 3/8-inch Barbed, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WR50VA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_66WYKXCQAA8PQA7JB492?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Would something like this work for you?
So find the correct size of valve for what size of PVC you have, e.g 1 1/2 " vs. 2".
Supplies needed:. Valves, PVC cement & cement primer. Potentially hack saw, PVC pipe, PVC coupler
The distance between the PVC pipes isn't predictable, your old valve will not be the same height as your new one. My PVC on my sump x2 was luckily the same, but my ejector pit was not. I had to go buy 2" pvc and a staight coupler and cut the pipe to size.
It shouldn't hurt. Below is the one I used and it's been great! No loud thunk when it closes which is nice. They have a couple different sizes depending on your pipes.
https://www.amazon.com/Campbell-CHECK-CLR1-5-MfrPartNo-0823-15C/dp/B00JFF205Y
Well first make sure it's not just a loose connection on top there.
If you do replace it, might I recommend a great replacement.
I installed this check valve on two of my sump pumps and it worked wonders. It's called the quiet check valve and it truly lives up to its name. Plus it's clear so you can see if it's actually working. Highly recommend.
CHECK VALVE QUIET CLR1.5 by BRADY MfrPartNo 0823-15C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFF205Y/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_STyZyb947Y42Z
Cut the line, pull the pump, unscrew the connector, get an adapter and piece of pipe (probably 1 1/2) screw and glue as needed, use a Fernco to re-attach the pump.
Seriously it should take less than an hour.
Use one of these valves and no thump.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFF205Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do it when dry and not needed. Plan ahead , get your parts, take your time and feel the accomplishment.
One thing I would say that might help is to move the check valves lower. They should be very close to the pump itself. Yours are so high that a lot of the water that gets pumped up comes right back into the sump. So they work more and the water level stays higher.
Make sure they are working when you move them. If not or suspect get a Zoeller 30-0181
http://smile.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Plastic-Check-Valve/dp/B0009WD1L4
> On another note - my check valve - per the images from my last post - is super LOUD. Would you guys recommend the Zoeller unit? I have a baby on the way and need something a bit more quiet.
I've been using Zoeller's Quiet Check for my last few installs and it is very quiet. I actually had one customer ask me to remove it and reinstall the 'noisy one' because he found the silence and lack of banging and thumping disconcerting.
Looks to me like someone made their own cheap air gap back flow preventer by gluing up some fittings and cutting the corner off.
Though why they needed a back flow preventer or why they didn't jut use a check valve is unknown. This setup is going dump water all over the floor if it's actually ever needed.
Sounds like you're looking for a check valve with a low cracking pressure. A google search shows numerous off-the-shelf options. Parker makes a variety, some even available thru amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Cracking-Pressure-Compression-Fitting/dp/B007I5TTMA