Do yourself a favor and buy a circuit breaker finder, the tool has paid for itself for the time it saved me.
Just for the love of god what is Kline's fascination with stupid push buttons that get activated in the back of the van so i gotta hear beeping from that and the five wireless testers i have lost in other bags?
Even without a ground, the exterior of your dishwasher should not have any significant voltage present.
If you're getting shocks, you have multiple issues occurring. A bad ground connection is just one of them. You may also have swapped live and neutral at some point. You may have shorted live to the chassis.
About the only advice I am comfortable giving you is to obtain a receptacle tester and check every outlet involved in the remodel. You will very likely find other issues, or the same issue creating problems in other outlets.
Some other appliance in the house is tying common to ground. Your common lead has too much amperage going through it, and some of the electricity is going back through the ground connector. It also seems the ground connector to the house is badly connected (probably just cheated and tied to the common in the fuse box), or floating (not connected at all). This will tell you if you don't like opening the walls. https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
Above is the answer.
Also, do not consult this electrician again after:
> He also said that the the electricity has been "cleaned out" even before the house could use it so it's not possible that it's the grounding.
How old is the house/wiring? If your outlets are not properly grounded, it will show a fault. In which case you should definitely be consulting an electrician before you attempt charging - even the "slow charger" draws enough amps continuously to start an electrical fire on crappy wiring or outlets.
If you have any surge protectors with a "Ground Fault" or "Not Grounded" or "Not Protected" light on them, that will tell you pretty quick. You can also buy a receptacle tester online or at your local hardware store.
Get an outlet tester. If this wasn't a problem before, I suspect somebody did a shitty job wiring up your place. If the wiring is faulty... umm... I'm not sure how to fix it but, technically, it should be your landlord's problem but things might not work that way in Indonesia.
I wouldn't plug in the PC until you've got that figured out unless you're OK with with frying your computer to get in a few more rounds of DOTA.
Former electrician here. Electrical grounding is very important for your safety. That is why the ground line to every outlet is highly regulated, and not optional. That being said, the grounding on any outlet in your home is connected to every other ground in your home. If there is some kind of ground fault, say for example a neutral-to-ground anywhere on that circuit, it can not only cause hum (sarcastic understatement /s)... it can cause a fire! Audio people tend to deal with "hum" and it leads to a phenomena called "audiophile" where bogus suppositions become regarded as audio truths, pretty much any unchallenged supposition eventually becomes a bias over time. That being said, it's not entirely untrue; Many audio cables are unbalanced circuits and generate their own noise. Induction, and RF interference are big contributors to this effect. Anyways, all I can say for your power outlets is to test them with a device mostly because I would not want you to damage your expensive equipment on faulty wiring. I would also highly recommend using a UPS between the wall and the equipment.
Klein will do just fine: https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M/
Edit: it's even cheaper at Home Depot. Also, assumes you have NEMA outlets - sorry if that's not the case, but there are certainly options for the rest of the world.
Re #4: When I bought my first house, my first task was mapping out all the breakers. I ended up finding a huge number of urgent fire hazards in the basement remodel (none of the lights on the drop ceiling had electrical boxes, some of the wall switches had large chunks of the electrical boxes sawed off and wood jammed inside the holes, the smoke detector wires were connected with masking tape, etc.)
If you have a house with a DIY rennovation, this is a must-do.
> Hot and Neutral aren’t backwards at the outlet,
yeah one of these receptacle testers are nice to have when moving into a new place...the home inspector should have caught something like that
You might want to travel with a plug tester like this. Would make for an exciting day to find the hot and ground swapped because some idiot didn't know how to hook up a plug properly.
In addition to all the great suggestions there is also this type of tool ...
AC Circuit breaker finder
The only downside to this tool is that you have to have power on for it to work on the outlet you are checking. So not very helpful if you are trying to figure out which breaker a dead outlet is on.
GFCI reset tester...
Plug it into the outlet, push the button, outlet will shut off until reset at where ever the GFCI is located.
I’d add, while you can use a meter and they’re probably best for checking bare wire, these are invaluable for doing quick spot checks, seeing if the switch does indeed control the outlet across the room and well - doing the job they are meant to do.
Test the outlet, you can verify the wiring in any outlet with an inexpensive tester. https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M
Shocks from the AC leakage from safety caps on improperly grounded supplies is fairly common.
Your meter is very sensitive and provides no real "load" while measuring voltage. You may be getting high-impedance AC leakage that is very noticeable if you touch the metal screw lightly (I use the back of a finger to feel for the buzz). It probably an indication of a poorly grounded/ungrounded electrical box. Purchase a low cost "receptacle tester" and see what its lights tell you.
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Electrical-Klein-Tools-RT250/dp/B08QW7K1JJ
Curious why you're both pig tailing and using all the terminals on the outlets? Do one or the other, not both. Also, what kind of tester do you have? Just one that detects a current or an actual receptacle tester like this?
In order to properly figure this out, you need to find where the line comes in to the room. Start there, hook up the outlet, turn the power back on and trace it to find the next electrical box with power.
The only reason you're having this difficulty is because there is something not hooked up correctly. Forget how the previous outlets were hooked up (unless one was a switched outlet) and start again, replacing one at a time.
I use a wire toner for things like that. It allows you to ID each line without guessing. I have a fluke that I used at work however you don’t need to make that kind of investment. It simply puts a signal on the line that you look for with a probe. If you need one now, Grainger or electrical supply places carry them. Or Amazon, there are many options. I also have a separate cat 5 tester but they have combo options as well.
You said your apartment has shoddy wiring. What have you done to confirm the grounds are good? I've seen 3 prong plugs without any ground wire attached at all. Visually it looks good. If you haven't checked it borrow a meter or get one of these. (It's returnable) You should have 110V (US) between the smaller slot and the bottom ground slot. As well as between the slots.
Congrats on the journey! It will be a bit stressful but fun.
Good tips so far (furnace, roof, water heater, etc). Look for signs of water damage, especially in the basement. Rod holes happen and aren’t a big expense to fix, large foundation cracks can be a huge problem.
Another thing you can do is purchase a cheap (Amazon or harbor freight) electric outlet tester. Klein Tools RT210 Outlet Tester, Receptacle Tester for GFCI / Standard North American AC Electrical Outlets, Detects Common Wiring Problems https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VBVNCY31M9CQVAQABRKW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Plug it in a few outlets to make sure they are wired properly.
Don’t be afraid to question the realtor and get legit answers. If it sounds fishy, it probably is.
As for location it depends what you’re concerned about. Check local crime maps and if you’re bothered by noise, look out for nearby train tracks or fire stations.
> You can test it yourself by running a hair dryer (or similar high load device) on the plug that you intend to use.
Yes, that loads the circuit, but in addition to the load, electric vehicle charging requires a correctly grounded circuit. A tool like the one below is cheap and tests for correct grounding as well as other issues (reversed polarity, etc).
But an electrician's inspection is worth it. It's not much money relative to the amount of money you'll be putting into an electric vehicle to make sure your home's circuits are up to the task. (And you'll likely make up the difference in operating expenses between electric and gasoline in a very short time)
>a few sessions of an hour each
Everything you said is right except this, from what I found. looking into using mine in my vehicles I found that anything over 15 minutes, on some plastics surfaces, can lead them to break down. They could be wrong, but I've always stuck to 12-15min a day max and it works well on stuff like this.
Also you need to make sure you have a ground at your outlet. without a ground these don't work properly and the one I have specifies making sure there is an active ground. a cheap receptical tool can confirm.
I use one of these breaker finders. You plug it in (or use this as an adapter for a light), then wave the wand around the breaker box and it tell you which one it is. I live alone though so it might be more useful for me than others.
You can get an actual circuit breaker finder for $25. There's a transmitter you plug into the outlet, and the receiver you hold in your hand and it'll tell you if the outlet has power.
Try one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Ulta-Lit-01201-Complete-Miniature/dp/B000R8KBOK?sa-no-redirect=1&pldnSite=1
Paid for itself in saved light strands more times than I can count
Are you properly grounding the amp and is your house properly grounded?
You can get something like this on amazon for pretty cheap to test your outlets.
I have this one from amazon:
I've only used it once to find some buried speaker wire that the builder left in the ceiling but it worked perfectly.
Home depot says the ryobi is discontinued but there is a Klein version on Amazon for $30.
That's an EFF charity link btw.
Then there’s this:
Klein Tools ET310 AC Circuit Breaker Finder with Integrated GFCI Outlet Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNMCVWP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FXGFV1PN82409WFXHEM2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The ONT isn't able to output internet over both Coax and Ethernet at the same time. It can't auto-detect and switch on its own either, it has to be remotely switched by Verizon. All new installs and speed upgrades use Ethernet and will have the ONT switched to Ethernet, as Coax only goes up to 100/100 and the slowest speed currently offered is 200/200. Since it's set to use Ethernet, connecting the router to its Coax port will do nothing. It has to be connected with Ethernet. When it is, connecting the Coax to the router will make it "active" and give the extender something to connect to.
In your case, you should look into repurposing the landline phone wiring for Ethernet. If the landline phone wiring is Cat5e or better, it can be done. You just need to find which cable is the one for your apartment (use a tone and probe kit if the correct wire isn't obvious), terminate both ends for Ethernet, and connect one end to the ONT and one end to your router. I did this very thing for by brother in a previous apartment of his.
Is it a GFCI outlet, a normal outlet on an Arc Fault Breaker, or is it just a grounded outlet?
How is it grounded? Did your electrician run a new ground from/to the main panel, did they ground the outlet itself to a ground rod, a water pipe, or to the neutral wire? All of these might make a difference, as some of them are not proper ways to ground a GFCI outlet, and somewhat questionable otherwise.
You might try hooking up something like a vacuum or blender to the circuit and see what happens... if it blows, it's either an improper install of a bad outlet (I've installed a lot of GFCI outlets, they do come DOA sometimes, not often)
I'd suggest an outlet tester like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX8L0M/
That will tell you if there's a ground or other wiring error.
Also, if it was installed by a professional electrician in the US it is almost certainly a 15A circuit, possibly 20A - good for at least 1600W so your laser is probably fine on it.
FYI - in case you didn't know, there is literally a Christmas light gun that you can plug into half-working strings of lights that will revive them again.
This is the gun I mean.
You literally just find the first dead bulb in the series, plug the gun into that socket, pull the trigger a few times, and boom - the string lights up like new.
I bought it in a retail store because it was like 12 bucks on clearance and figured "worse it could do is nothing". The damn thing fixed every string of lights in my "Christmas bin".
Yes, move it, see if you still get a shock. At the start of the heating season many people complain that their kitchen appliances zap them, but it's just common physics + made in China mat :P
But do make sure your outlet is grounded properly too. Best $7 you'll ever spend: https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GFI-3501-Receptacle-Extension/dp/B00170KUPC
Yeah I love mine. It's Klein but does the same thing. If y'all like this kind of thing, Klein and probably others make this circuit tracer that actually works. You plug in a similarly sized to the pictured thing at the receptacle and the wand on the panel. It does work unlike others I've used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNMCVWP?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_EGBTNKQNVR9HRGNWJWKH
Would something like this work to figure that out?
Also would it matter if im using a power conditioner?
Haven't used one myself but from what I've heard they're good. Would obviously still be somewhat weary and double check the circuit is dead once it's identified but it should save some trouble specifically with plugs
I wish I knew of an easy way to check it. I have a tester that shows whether an outlet is wired correctly for polarity and grounded properly. I don't know if you'd want to purchase one of those. I think it was forty dollars or so. I love that thing. It sends out a signal that I can detect at the breaker so I know which breaker controls that circuit.
I suspect you may be in Europe somewhere because you mentioned Scan which I assume is an electronics store I have never heard of. If your house is pretty new then it is highly unlikely that the outlet is ungrounded. I have no idea about that though... I'm an American and have remodeled a number of houses but have no idea about that stuff across the pond.
Bummer. So, I'm still going with 'not connected' vs broken. You just have to figure out where...
Yes, you can trace wires with a tone generator and probe. Have the power off, it will trace through walls to a certain extent, etc...
But, I'd be inclined to start guessing. When they did the third floor did they steal power from someplace on the second? Like, when you turn off the breaker that controls these third floor outlets, does some second floor stuff go off too? Can you guess which outlet or ceiling light box they tapped into? Power does your best guess and pull the device and see if there's another cable out - see if disconnecting that cable cuts off the 3rd floor outlets (or use a tone generator to show the you've found the correct cable). Did they just not connect the ground?
I just re-read your original post and it seems your electrician has you convinced that the cable is damaged inside the wall and the damage just interrupts the ground but not hot or neutral. This just seems highly unlikely, but let's run with it for a sec. On the one hand, the tone generator tracer is going to struggle - the tone will magnetically couple to the other wires some, you'll get tone through the wall even past the purported break. On the other hand, the tone tends to radiate out the end of the wire, the sensor beeps much louder at the end of the wire than along it - maybe you get lucky and find a break that way.
How are the lights wired? Sometimes there's power to the switch box and then onward to the light. Sometimes power goes to the light box and a switch loop runs down to the switch box. Once you know which it is, you can pop open a switch or light and see if there's ground there that isn't passed on down the line for whatever reason.
One thing I'd do as a start is use an outlet tester. Local hardware store should have a cheap one, or here's a $10 one from Amazon (link). She can confirm the outlet is wired correctly. My bet is something is wired incorrectly, or is wired poorly causing transient issues. No matter what the issue is, she should have a small UPS that can insulate the machine from most power issues.
Your local home improvement stores will have a device you can plug into an electrical outlet to check if it is wired correctly, including the grounding.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX3AYE
Yea OP could check the outlets with something like this:
They may have something wired up wrong.
Those voltage testers dont work very well unless they are physically touching the copper wire. They give false readings all the time if you just shove it in a wall socket. You dont need a full on meter for this though, a plug tester will do the job (unless you only have 2 prong outlets). Get something like this for testing
Im willing to bet that you just miswired the gfci. Unplug all the wires while power is off. Turn power back on and use the hot stick to find the black wire thats still hot. Find the white wire that goes with it and put those 2 on the line side of the gfci. Connect all the other wires to the load side. If you cant find a hot wire in that box then your problem is somewhere else in the house and starts becoming a bigger issue then what reddit can help you with. If this is the case you might need to call an electrician in
Grounding is through the common ground (the outer shell) on the RCA jacks on this turntable. Which means that if whatever you're plugging the cables into doesn't ground the shell of the RCA connection properly, you're going to get hum.
Other potential causes of 60Hz mains hum in turntables:
I think you are good. Klein makes a tester https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT110/dp/B01AKX3AYE/ref=asc_df_B01AKX3AYE/ feel the wall for heat, but otherwise if the plug works and the breaker or outlet isn't hot you're golden
What country are you in? What you describe sounds like a bad ground connection
I wonder if there is something like this available for your country.
Hey thanks for the feedback! Btw, you can get an outlet tester for less than $10 from Amazon or a depot. It's the quickest and safest way to test all your outlets. It could be that the ground wire broke loose inside the outlet.
Also, it might have been a loose hot wire inside the case that was shorted to ground, or a metal object inside the PSU that was causing the problem, and it got disconnected/dislodged as you moved the PC around. Only testing the outlets will confirm the cause.
I have one of these:
Is this not similar?
This tool has been pretty handy for me. My Box is not labeled correctly so anytime i had to turn off power it was a guess. I am also changing my outlets over to white so this tool helps me find the breaker by myself, lets me know the power is off and if its wired correctly. Worth the money to me.
it could be any number of things. AC Electricity in north america cycles at 60hz. Speaker cables and RCA cables can act as antennas picking up this interference.
i'd start with the lowest common denominator.
They sell a tester at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. that you plug into an outlet and it will tell you if the neutral and hot are on the correct sides and if it is grounded. It has a test button that will pop a GFCI if it is supposed to be GFCI protected. These are nice to have for making sure the outlets around the sink or bathroom are properly protected (areas where you use electrical things with wet hands.) Also makes sure your expensive electronics aren't plugged into incorrectly wired outlets.
I have this one and love it. It also allows me to touch the wand to breakers one at a time and see which one is for the plug in question.
Something like this should work
PTE Wire Tracer & Circuit Tester -Tone Generator & Probe Kit - Find & Trace Wires & Cables, Test Circuit Continuity, Network Telephone Line, Coaxial, Automotive - Features Alligator Clips & RJ11 Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ADHQCIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_5748HHWJ0XTFHBFSGV49?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It honestly depends on your application, small in home stuff the one I linked is perfect. Larger jobs like where I am (working in a dorm where panel boxes are remote) they actually make a circuit tracer that's handy too, but takes up more space still probably no bigger than the mallet you have pictured, the only other advantage is it has a gfci tester and a "wiring condition" indicator, say you accidentally reversed hot and neutral it will tell you, that one you would plug into your circuit and the hand held would be taken to you panel box and beeps when you highlight the breaker that it's plugged into, neat, but. Again would be your discretion, mostly based off location of your panel box in relation to where you're working, either way one of those two tools is a must have
If you're concerned about the electrical outlet in that particular room, use one of these or something similar to do a basic test. Alternatively, there could be something else (such as an appliance) on the same circuit that is causing the noise in the line. If that's the case, you can use something like this to help eliminate the noise or at least greatly reduce it.
+1 for the GFCI receptacle tester
Plug it in and press the button.
Actually IMO this is like an essential tool for living in older places, because it can also show you neutral/hot reverse and missing ground. When I move to a new place I do this for every receptacle that requires GFCI to make sure I know where the trip point is, that GFCI is installed, etc.
While your Trogotronic is being nice enough to tell you there’s a problem with tingly feedback, it really shouldn’t, the exception being if the ground/earth terminal is somehow connected to a mains wire on the outlet. It could be that there’s issues with the wiring in the new house, some DIYer swapping outlets and hooking them up wrong. If you move the PC, Trogotronic, and modular power connections to a different outlet does it solve the issue?
Get yourself something like this outlet tester (actual one to buy depends on where you live; that one’s for North American 115 Volt outlets) and do some testing.
I wouldn't be concerned about cloth covered wire itself. Are you having any electrical problems?
I would recommend testing that 3 prong outlets have a ground and that GFCI protected outlets are working correctly. The tool costs basically nothing:
Lastly you could post up some pictures of the breaker panel, but really it might make sense to just have an electrician do a quick check of it.
Get a tester, they're super cheap. I took a few hours one day and shut each breaker off one by one and tested each light and outlet and created a panel map and labeled my panel.
Also check to make sure they are wired right. Something like this will tell you if it's wired up correctly. https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
Sometimes old houses aren't wired right, or they never set up the ground.
This is a great tool for quickly tracing out which circuit your outlets are on. Klein Tools ET310 AC Circuit Breaker Finder with Integrated GFCI Outlet Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNMCVWP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_MGPY5E52S38WZV4ZTQPM. For the lights the easiest thing to do is turn it on and go through the breakers one by one until you find which one turns the light off. As far as troubleshooting questionable electrical installs and issues go though, it may be difficult to do properly just from reading a book. Most electricians learn to troubleshoot from years of experience but Home Depot or lowes does have wiring books if you want to try do it yourself
Get a circuit locator Tool. This is just an example, but you can get them at any big box store or a place like harbor freight.
You'll plug in the transmitter to an outlet and then run the other part up and down the panel to see what circuit it is on. Get a screw in plug with outlet to test the lights.
If you still cannot locate, I'd guess there is a subpanel someplace.
I'll point out that the turning off the power step should happen before the taking the plate off. I strongly suggest plugging in a light, radio, or some noise generating device that you can tell switches off when you're trying to kill the power to the outlet.
While you're at the hardware store you should pick up an outlet tester to confirm that you wired it correctly. For under $10, one might not be had to have on hand if you have older or questionable outlets.
In fairness, changing an outlet is a job that literally anybody can do. If you can turn a screwdriver, you can change an outlet.
Turn off power at the breaker. Test this with a socket tester (which costs $10.
Unscrew the cover, pull out the socket.
Unscrew the leads from the old one, screw them onto the new one.
Replace socket and cover.
Turn power back on, test with socket tester.
I think this might be a question for a different sub.
If you suspect that there's a problem with the outlet grounding in your house, you can get a pretty cheap and simple outlet tester that will be a good starting point.
You may want to buy an outlet ground tester, something like below. Any home depot type of store should have one if you don't want to order it.
Easiest and safest way to test is to get something like this and just plug it in to whatever outlet you want to test.
The voltage comes from your power company and is not affected by your house wiring or devices.
Coworker has this one and you have to circle the panel twice for it to actually find the breaker but I will say for $30 that’s not bad
Check your plug, I had a disconnected ground AND a reversed neutral. I never knew it for five years until I plugged my rig into this plug in the garage.
Klein Tools RT110 Receptacle Tester for North American AC Electrical Outlet Receptacles https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX3AYE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_TQQ5KXQWJX8236HNY3NV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
No, reversing both black hot and both white neutral wires to the opposite side of the outlet would reverse the polarity on that outlet and all the other outlets fed from that one.
It would not stop them from functioning, anything plugged in would still run, just like it would run everytime you plug a 2 prong plug in to an outlet reversed, with the wide prong in the narrow hole.
That outlet and all the others on that same branch would have reversed polarity, but would still function.
Simple to check for incorrect polarity with a tester available online or at any hardware store.
Light Keeper Pro. Pull out a bulb in the unlit section, plug in the light keeper, pull the trigger 20 to 40 times, and the section will come back on. Replace the two (or more) burnt out bulbs.
Gardner Bender GFI-3501 Ground Fault Receptacle Tester & Circuit Analyzer, 110-125V AC, for GFCI / Standard / Extension Cords & More, 7 Visual LED Tests , Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170KUPC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_G4XVX50E2VHANEQQ0X1E
PTE Wire Tracer & Circuit Tester -Tone Generator & Probe Kit - Find & Trace Wires & Cables, Test Circuit Continuity, Network Telephone Line, Coaxial, Automotive - Features Alligator Clips & RJ11 Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ADHQCIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SZVPWK2HYJ3P7A8AKT10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
$30 on Amazon will solve your problem.
These things are supposed to help map those out. I've had mixed results with mine. I'd suggest trying one of those eout or getting a bunch of night lights or some kind of appliance and plugging one into each outlet. Turn them all on and systematically check the breakers vs outlets.
This tester might be convenient for you:
Klein Tools RT210 Outlet Tester, Receptacle Tester for GFCI / Standard North American AC Electrical Outlets, Detects Common Wiring Problems https://amazon.com/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CYFSMSQB29AHARRRGR5P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Get one of these.
It's a receptacle tester. Tells you if there is power, of it's wired correctly, and there is a button for tripping the GFCI.
To test the GFCI, push the button, see the power go out, and then plug it into outlets downstream to see if they are live.
GFCI and the breaker in the panel trip for different reasons. The GFCI trips when it detects a difference of 4-5 milliamps difference of incoming power (from the panel) and outgoing power (back to the panel) as it completes the circuit; basically power leaking to ground or the case of an appliance. The breaker trips when more amps are drawn than the breaker is rated to (15 amps, 20 amps, etc.). To compare the two, there are 1,000 milliamps per amp so the GFCI is much more sensitive and is measuring a different scenario.
Now that that is out of the way, it could either be one of about three things:
If the circuit is really dedicated as you say then you could start by getting an outlet tester like this https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M
That will allow you to make sure the outlet is wired properly and that the GFCI is tripping properly. You could use a high draw appliance like a drill or heater and see if that trips the outlet. Or you could replace the outlet and see if that helps. If it keeps tripping then you need to replace your sump pump.
I'm not an electrician, but I would see what I can do before bringing my guy out.
Buy an outlet tester to check your work when you're done.
Depending on if these are LED or not, there is this silly looking ‘gun’ you can get off of Amazon or at Walmart this time of year that can fix these! Sometimes it’s just a burned out light, which you would need to replace, but often it’s a short in the bypass that the run thing can fix. ultra light keeper
Here’s a link to one off Amazon, and they actually work pretty dang well.
You mean like this? The higher ups will never approve of the hit to the budget. /s
Are you sure you don't have a sub panel somewhere?
This may help too
I don’t think so. But I would mention it on your disclosure, the hoa is in the process of some outlets stuff, but I don’t really understand all that.
But if you wanted to test/mark your outlets.
Klein Tools RT210 Outlet Tester, Receptacle Tester for GFCI / Standard North American AC Electrical Outlets, Detects Common Wiring Problems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_96W985N0XGMCA5YXTCQ7
That will trip the circuit. If it doesn’t trip your fuse box it’s not your power. (Or a really unsafe installation)
Just a guess, is it possible that the voltage at the wall receptacle is low or not grounded properly.
There are cheaper Receptacle Testers available, but the GE Receptacle Tester was the first result from an Amazon search.
Amazon - GE 50542 Receptacle Tester, 3-Wire Light Improper Wiring Indicator, Gray/Yellow
Detects probable improper wiring conditions in standard 110-125 VAC outlets
Provides 6 probable wiring conditions that are quick and easy to read for ultimate efficiency
Lights indicate if wiring is correct and indicator light chart is included
Tests standard 3-wire outlets
( Light indicates if wiring is incorrect
This unit is not hardwired but rather is plugged into an outlet? Start by unplugging and testing the outlet-- make sure it's grounded and the GFCI (if there is one) is working properly. If it seems to work fine, try a different load on the outlet...plug something in and run it for a while, ideally a higher-draw appliance like a hair dryer or toaster or vacuum. If those work fine then the problem is clearly with the dishwasher.
Once you've (presumably) isolated the problem to the dishwasher you can either start troubleshooting that, pay for a repair call, or replace it. If I were troubleshooting I'd first check to make sure the power cord is intact and the connections/ground to the unit (which should be inside a junction box, likely built into the bottom of the unit) are good. If so then I'd suspect the control board and start troubleshooting that next, since it sounds like the issue isn't just the pump goes off or it's not drying, but rather than the entire unit is going dark somehow mid-cycle?
Most DWs I've had were easy to service once you have them removed from under the counter. Parts are generally available. But if it's the control board you could be looking at a high enough price that it makes more sense to just replace the entire thing.
Do you have one of these?,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT110/dp/B01AKX3AYE/ref=sr_1_26?dchild=1&keywords=circuit+tester&qid=1634117690&sr=8-26
GFCI Receptacle Tester with LCD Display, for Standard 3-Wire 120V Electrical Outlets Klein Tools RT250 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QW7K1JJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J0PADDGPZ1JDX3YRB2BD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They are. I have a feeling you have a hot/neutral reversed outlets.
Get a cheap tester like this to check honestly. Most things don't care with AC line lights. But your PC does
Klein Tools RT110 Receptacle Tester for North American AC Electrical Outlet Receptacles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX3AYE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_4X9W87TAGRE1HKPEB1R1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You don't even really need a $40 tester for this sort of thing. A simple $5 continuity tester will tell you if the circuit is safe or not before you work on it. Or one of these guys: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX3AYE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_KMXCS22F7N6RXN7THCZS
Quarter says the outlet isn't grounded at all. Also seen reverse polarity cause all sorts of odd issues. Pick up a cheap outlet tester like this: https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT110/dp/B01AKX3AYE
Check the basics first. Get a outlet tester to verify no wiring issues with the wall plug or power bar. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX3AYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_BVER2CZAZE7574ETS3YR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. If you have a lifted ground or wiring issue, it could be dumping voltage on your pedal ground. If all is good make sure pedals are on the same outlet as the computer to prevent ground loops. Then look for a power supply issue in the device. Check continuity of grounding between pedals and wall outlet ground.
Gardner Bender GFI-3501 Ground Fault Receptacle Tester & Circuit Analyzer, 110-125V AC, for GFCI / Standard / Extension Cords & More, 7 Visual LED Tests , Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170KUPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_C9273GCGDNGKTNC62CD2
Something like this will help you test your outlets, something good to have in general to be honest. But yeah sounds more like your guitar isn’t grounded.
Primarily, I’m glad that you are actively attempting to learn your job, this makes me happy. You can purchase one of these…. GFCI Receptacle Tester with LCD Display, for Standard 3-Wire 120V Electrical Outlets Klein Tools RT250 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QW7K1JJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NK13AWQQCHJ3VDY517DA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 to test every receptacle for missing ground, missing Neutral, rolled hot leg and GFCI/AFCI functionality. This will expose a ton of future problems and bad wiring. I would also recommend you check swimming pool electrical. I’ve seen several houses where that system was completely overlooked. Often times there will be a separate sub panel or fuse box for the pump/lighting and accessories. Function all of that equipment to check for faults. Also I had installed a 60A sub panel at my own home on a separate photo cell operated contactor for outdoor lighting and receptacle for holiday decorations. Since the panel was only energized from dusk to Dawn and the inspector checked it at 2pm, they failed it on several points including inoperable receptacles , inoperable lights, failed AFCI breakers and such. I made the inspector come back out on a Saturday and flipped the Hand/Off/Auto to Hand just to prove my point. Familiarize yourself with different schemes and don’t be afraid to ask questions from the seller’s or representative. Good luck!
Like a tester?
Klein Tools RT210 Outlet Tester, Receptacle Tester for GFCI / Standard North American AC Electrical Outlets, Detects Common Wiring Problems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_AMZXHGMKCTA5E39T1S2N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If the outlet or breaker was setup wrong it might jack up the grounding for the pc. Might want to get your hands on a outlet tester that shows the various configurations. I suspect computers are more sensitive to the way circuits are setup than say a refrigerator. This might require a electrician.
The other thing that comes to mind is that some component of the pc is drawing too much current and the power supply can't handle it. I'd think it would have protections, but it's possible a cheap component inside it could fail if drawing too much power.
Last thing, make sure you are on a good power strip or ups to save you from surges going forward.
Circuit breaker finder. Just plug it in and the magic wand will beep over whichever breaker is controlling that circuit. It will also beep when waved over any other outlets on that particular branch. I like to label which breaker controls a particular outlet on the back of the faceplate as well, makes life easier.
Klein Tools ET310 AC Circuit Breaker Finder with Integrated GFCI Outlet Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNMCVWP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_812AR942TSRW7MXDCHBB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They sell adapters to adapt the radio transmitter to lightbulb sockets and alligator clips for direct wire hookup
You mentioned you had a non-contact tester that showed you have some voltage. Is there voltage indicated at any of the outlets?
It would be odd for there to be a GFCI that's interrupting power to all outlets in a particular room, other than the garage or bathrooms.
Remember that a tripped breaker may not LOOK tripped. If you know for sure which breaker is associated with those outlets, try turning it off then back on again.
You may need to buy a "fox and hound" type of tester that will send a tone from whatever receptacle you want to test. You then have a receiver that will indicate when you're putting the tip close to a wire or breaker that's tied to that outlet.
Here's one that looks good, on Amazon, but feel free to search around for one to fit your budget & needs.
Get one of these, it's a receptacle tester. It'll tell you if it's wired correctly or not.
Then get one of these. It a no contact voltage tester. It'll tell you if the wire is hot without having to touch it.
If you feel comfortable taking apart an outlet
Only do it if you know for sure the power is off. (Hence the voltage tester)
It could be a loose wire nut behind the outlet. A wire could have been terminated shittily on the outlet and it may have fallen out.
Watch some videos on how to do it, just remember to shut the power off, that green goes on green, white goes on white, and black goes on gold. Make sure all the wire nuts and screws are tight by doing the pull test. (Just give the wire a healthy tug to see if it pulls out). If you're worried about the sides of the outlet, you can put a wrap of electrical tape around the side of it.
ONLY DO IT IF YOU'RE CONFIDENT THAT YOU CAN CLEARLY FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AND NOT BURN YOUR HOUSE DOWN
Replacing outlets is pretty easy, you just have to triple check you did everything correctly. Proper tools are key, and keeping everything clean helps a lot. If you turn the power back on and nothing trips, you're probably fine. If things start tripping after you plug something in, it could the the appliance itself. If you're really curious about what's happening, you could even get a proper meter and measure the voltage that you have, but it's probably not necessary unless something is majorly fucked.
Source: I'm an electrician
If you don't have a volt/multi meter, you need to get one of these outlet testers. https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=outlet+tester&qid=1629210709&sr=8-7 They are cheap and come in very handy. I used to carry a lamp around to plug into outlets to test them. This one tests polarity, ground, gfi outlets. It can even tell if you have a bad neutral. A volt meter will come in handy if you have one. I'd still get the outlet tester too.
Well it's great that the bathroom and kitchen have some grounded outlets. We're opening a can of worms here, but hopefully they're GFCI protected as well. If not, that's another thing that I'd want fixed. Depending on the age of the house, not strictly required, but so much safer for you.
The best way to find out is to buy a GFCI tester like this: https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M
But you can also look for rectangular outlets that have the little test/reset buttons. If you see those anywhere, push the "test" button and then go around and see what got disconnected with your power strip or anything else like a light, since the GFCI outlets can affect/protect other outlets. Then you'll know at least you have some protection in those areas. If you DON'T see those GFCI outlets, the circuit(s) may still be protected in the panel by a GFCI circuit breaker. It should look like a normal one but have a little yellow or white button on it that functions as the test button. If you see one or more of those, that's a good sign, and you can perform a similar test to see which outlets they affect.
Overall, my biggest concern here is that you have those ungrounded three prong outlets at all. Why? Who put them there? If it was someone the property manager hired, what else has that person touched? If it was the owner, what else did they do wrong?
It's not the end of the world to have ungrounded outlets, but they should only have 2 holes. The fact that they have three holes means someone who doesn't know what they were doing was mucking around, and that would make me nervous. Not that the house is going to burn down tonight, but that I could get shocked if it rains or if I decide to take a bath.