The best Computer Cable Adapters: Reddit reviews

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

I run HL:A on my laptop. Similar specs, except for the RTX, it's a 2060, the biggest issue is making sure you can get the DP connection to work

Here's the one I use;
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07F17ZHJY

https://www.amazon.com/Syntech-Adapter-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B07CVX3516/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2HGR5FR47KKA9&dchild=1&keywords=usb+c+to+usb+adapter&qid=1627484822&sprefix=usb+c++to+%2Caps%2C326&sr=8-3 this is just an example but you could aquire a USB C to USB adapter and be able to use a mouse had to get one myself when I got loaned a MacBook for my graphics design class

The bundle of connections all together are the ones on the motherboard. The XFX card at the bottom is an addon graphics card, which takes priority for the computer's video output when it's plugged into the motherboard.

From the top going down and to the right, you've got

• Two USB 2.0 ports set aside for mouse/keyboard and a PS2 port for legacy mouse/keyboard
• Onboard DVI and VGA video outputs (not to be used when you have an addon graphics card like you do)
• HDMI (same story as the other onboard video outputs above) and then two more USB 2.0 cables.
• Two USB 3.0 ports (used for external hard drives)
• Two USB 3.0 ports and your network jack (aka ethernet jack)
• Microphone jack, audio out jack, line in jack

And then below all of that, you've got a nice XFX video card with 3 of the ports blocked off for god knows why. The HDMI port down there is what you'd connect your monitor to.

The guy who linked the Amazon HDMI to DVI cable is the correct cable. They sell one at Best Buy for $35. DON'T spend $25 extra for no reason. I would suggest spending the $6.99 on amazon and doing Prime Today for $2.99 instead if you have amazon prime or know someone who can order you that cable on Prime Today. Give em $10 later.

The back of your monitor has the blue (VGA) and white (DVI) connections probably.

EDIT: Not to confuse you, but I see some people on here are questioning the cable with a lack of knowledge on their part. DVI-D to HDMI is a bi-directional cable that works going either direction, so it doesn't matter if it's advertised as a DVI to HDMI or HDMI to DVI in this instance. Just as long as it doesn't say DVI-I or DVI-A you should be fine. The amazon one is fine.

why dont you just get an adapter??

https://www.amazon.com/Syntech-Adapter-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B07CVX3516/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=usb-a+to+usb-c+adapter&qid=1608442719&sr=8-3

Just get the $14 pci card from Amazon. It works perfectly. They have dual ones for like $50.

Personally I’d boot Mac OS from NVME and run windows on an SSD.

I wanted it to have Type-C mainly for future proofing, because Cooler Master has discussed adding Type-C to their new revisions of the case, and also wanted to have it for any future case I get. But I could always get a USB 3 to USB 3.1 adapter if I wanted to

That will never work.

You have to use display port over type-C for G-Sync.

Here is what I use on mine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F17ZHJY/

The display also has to support G-Sync for it work.

You want to use the dvi port at the bottom of that picture. It's Dvi-D so only does digital output, you could use an DVI-D to HDMI cable like this one

I used this exact card for a friends budget Gaming pc and it works great. 80-120FPS On Fortnite with his G4560. Had him buy this DVI to HDMI cable adapter on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Input-Output-Adapter-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY

https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=usb+3.2+header+adapter&qid=1598377674&sprefix=usb+3.2+h&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaW...

you can get a different board with the header https://pcpartpicker.com/product/BYBhP6/asrock-b550-steel-legend-atx-am4-motherboard-b550-steel-legend

or use an adapter https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41

I bought 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJTVGZM to add 4 NVMe drives to an r720 without any issues. I didn't try booting from them but they worked on the host OS as well as VMs using PCIe passthrough.

1. You will need a USB C to USB A adapter (or pony tail), and plug it in the center console to use a USB A flash drive. (I prefer the pony tail)

2. There's a Wifi icon on the top right, click on that, it will open the Wifi settings

You need an adaptor. People have had success with this specific one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F17ZHJY

Forewarning though. It can vary on a laptop by laptop basis and id not a guaranteed solution. There's a reason Valve stipulates it needs an actual displayport.

Also do not try a HDMI to displayport adaptor (as some people try that as an alternative). That wont work at all.

This consumes about as much power as the NUCs, but should cost slightly less, and it has internal room for a 3.5" drive or two.

HP ProDesk 400 for $110 on eBay. Offer the seller $90. You’ll need an HDMI dummy plug to enable hardware transcoding. You’ll need to install your own SSD. You can use a SATA SSD, or if you’d like extra speed for your metadata, you can get a PCI-E to NVME adapter, and use an NVME SSD. Windows would cost extra, if you choose to go that route. Linux is free, but you pay by learning a bit. FreeNas is cool too, but I'm not sure about setting it up with individual drives.

I dont know much about the WD15, but if it has a thunderbolt 3 port, you can use a thunderbolt 3 to HDMI 2.0 adapter to get 60hz on the TV. Make sure to set the TV to a "PC" mode. Also can use the thunderbolt 3 on the 9550.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

This like this exist: https://www.amazon.com/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41

I haven't used one myself, but there's a note on their amazon listing which is concerning:

>*** Note on USB current over limit issue: The power from the USB 3.0 header on the motherboard has a power rating at 4.5W (0.9A x 5V). However, many USB-C devices can withdraw power up to 100W (20A x 5V). This may result in a power shut down to protect the motherboard and its components. Devices such as iPad Pro and other tablets should not be charged through this port.

This indicates that they messed up programming their port controller chip in the adapter by setting an inappropriately high current limit advertisement instead of Default, which would limit the sink power of phones and iPad to 900mA.

Way to admit your product sucks, LinkUp.

$8 HDMI Headless Ghost. Now you can set the resolution for that screen what ever you like and configure to your hearts content. Description says 1080 but the case shows 4K and I’ve got mine set to 4K.

https://www.amazon.com/Headless-Display-Emulator-Headless-1920x1080-Generation/dp/B06XT1Z9TF

Sure. This is the usb c adapter

LINKUP - USB 3.0 (3.1 Gen 2) Internal IDC 20 Pin Motherboard Header to A-Key 20 Pin Female Header Active Converter for Type C Panel Mount Adapter https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dxiiFb0WC88AQ

This is the one I’m using for usb 2.0 -> 3.0

LINKUP - USB 2.0 Female to USB 3.0 Male 20 Pin IDC Motherboard Header Active Compatible Converter Compatible with LINKUP Type C USB-C Chipset and Panel Mount https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B084D58HBP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.ziiFbVVRV3XV

So I have the same issue, h510 and my motherboard doesn’t support the usb-c header, I plan on getting this adapter, I haven’t personally tried it yet but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work just fine

Great, all you’ll need is a USB-C to HDMI adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

You can also get a hub for a bit more money that adds some handy USB-A ports and a card reader:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Reader-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B07H4VQ4BZ

You can still use it if you get an adapter, but it will only run at 3.1 Gen 1 speeds, instead of 3.1 Gen 2 speeds.

They look like this: https://www.amazon.ca/LINKUP-Internal-Motherboard-Converter-Adapter/dp/B07WG8ZJ41

I also have a 7,1 with a single W5700X and 3 monitors. Using the one hdmi provided and converted the other 2 hdmi’s with this. Works for me:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THJGZ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RNK314PVJ444HE3EZ87M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this and it’s worked great. The tv I used apple fitness + with doesn’t have airplay so this has saved me from having to buy an Apple TV.

Just purchased this USB C to DisplayPort, Maxonar 8K 60Hz Type-C to DP Cable 6.6FT/2M(4K 60Hz 144Hz 120Hz 2K 240Hz) VESA Certified 32.4Gbps 1.4 HBR3 Alt Mode Video Adapter for M1 MacBook Pro Mac Mini, XPS 15 and More https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08B3XNZGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AE2EP6QGAGBCH1NWX1XV

I have Plex on regular Windows 10 and use AnyDesk to remote into it. I needed to buy an HDMI dummy plug to get it to work without a monitor, but it works great. I use it to update, manage, or download anything from anywhere, even from outside my local network.

> VIZIO E320VP

Has VGA and two HDMI

​

>ASUS VH242H

Has VGA, DVI, and HDMI

​

Just get a HDMI to DVI cable and connect it to the HDMI port on either monitor depending initialization order.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DVI-to-HDMI-Cable/dp/B014I8UQJY

That way two monitors have their HDMI ports used. DVI and HDMI port on GPU used. Hopefully this allows you to configure everything to work better.

Note: Other ports on the GTX 1060 are probably displayport.

Need these badboys

Even if the mobo doesn't have one built in you can add one, all you need is an extra 4-16X slot which 99% of mobos will have. using a card like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJTVGZM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_EZY52K3DJSGNQCPM75MK

Hi, thank you for the response! I looked online and I'm 99% sure that my laptop (Zephyrus G14) has DP 1.4.

If high refresh rates are not well supported via docks, would it be better to have just a direct DP to usb-c converter and use that? Something like this? I have another USB-C port I could use for mouse/kb/ethernet if it comes down to it. However, that is inconvenient just because of how my workspace is arranged.

Thank you for that link, it definitely seems helpful. I'll look through the options. One question there: If my port supports DP 1.4, will it support HDMI 2.0? (through the dock)