This is the next best thing. it works very well for me.
I pair it to this so i can use my favorite wired headphones for days and days without needing to charge it.
as someone that uses this combonaton for 8+ hours every day i can confirm it works great but you can pair any headset to the dongle easily
>is there a way to play docked with headphones?
This paired to a set of aptX compatible headphones works great for me. wireless and zero latency.
The issue comes in if you plug network gear into outlets in both sides. If you run regular metal wiring you're creating a grounding loop and could damage a ton of things if there's ever lightning, or anything.
Fiber would run between the buildings and is non-conductive. So it eliminates the issue. You would need media converters to do that though. Or a similar setup. You can get cheap cables on fs.com as well. Here's a media converter I've used which worked great:
An ESP8266 is a WiFi Development Board (used in electronics projects mostly, like for Arduino) that people use for hosting web-based exploits (like the PS4 Jailbreaks) since it allows you to self-host the website on the device itself which is more portable, more reliable, and doesn't require any internet connection.
Basically you flash this exploit host to the board via your PC, then all you have to do is plug it into power via the micro-USB port on the board and then you're able to log into the WiFi network created by the device on your PS4 and run the exploit.
If it is to be used for audio on the PS4 specifically I would recommend the Creative BTW2. It is detected by the console as an audio device while the pairing process is performed on the dongle itself.
and these on each end. 10GBase-SR SFP+ Transceiver, 10G 850nm MMF, up to 300 Meters, Compatible with Cisco SFP-10G-SR, Meraki MA-SFP-10GB-SR, Ubiquiti UF-MM-10G, Mikrotik, N https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U8Q7946/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mKkHCcru3hofG
I use this this one with UDMP: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P39G4XJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The modem is Arris S33, everything works perfectly fine. Getting 1.4G.
This one works great for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SNK1MY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Works at all speeds 1/2.5/5/10 Gb/s
Have been using for 2 weeks now no issues. The only thing is the UDM Pro displays it as 10Gig when using any speed higher than gigabit, but its just a display issue. Still works just fine and speeds are correct when looking at link speed through windows.
Yes! You would need the run of fiber, as well as transceivers for SFP+
You could then use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Converter-Supporting-MC220L/dp/B003CFATL0/
Although this would limit you to only 1 Gbps!
Doesn't look like that's possible since the AUX ports on Alexa devices is just output, not input.
You might be able to get it to work with a switch compatible bluetooth adapter, though.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Portable-Bluetooth-Transceiver-Nintendo/dp/B00ZYYPFHU
Should be able to make it work like you would with any other device using Alexa as a bluetooth speaker.
This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4BYMSM3JPR0FW7RYVAEC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure if a 5ghz model would work or not. 2.4ghz is plenty for scraping.
The software that runs on a consumer electronics device, such as a set of bluetooth earbuds, is called firmware. (Because it's somewhere in the middle between hardware and software.) Such devices contain a small CPU, not as powerful as the one in a computer but able to do many of the same things, and the code that it runs when you turn it on is the firmware.
C/C++ (opinions vary about whether these should be lumped together) is probably the most common language for firmware. One way you can mess around with programming in this area is to grab a cheap little embedded development board and start programming it - the Arduino boards are very popular and it's very easy to find resources about how to get started with them, or there's the ESP8266 boards which are a little more featured, but probably harder for the total beginner. Either way, you'll connect them to your computer to "flash" firmware onto them, and then you power them up and they blink lights or control robots or whatever.
Not op, but this is what I got on amazon.
I just have it plugged into one of the spare USB hubs dangling off the back of my PC. I'm still running off my lan cable, but the as long as the wifi dongle is on (and connected to a router) then it will verify location no problem.
I have had very good luck with the HiLetgo boards from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O1G1ES
Even though a few have released their magic smoke and no longer work.... let's just say that I was conducting "endurance" testing on them... ya, endurance testing... that was it.
This is the one usually suggested. I have it and it works great. Obviously you will need a USB to USB C adapter.
If you are concerned with surges coming in over your network the only solution is fiber optic
Get a pair of these and a fiber long enough if your gear doesn't do optical already
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Converter-Multi-Mode-MC200CM/dp/B003AVRLZI
I don't know exactly what switch you're using, but you could always use SFP transceivers like this if you wanted to go the SFP to RJ45 route.
This one should support speeds up to 10g, but i'm sure there are cheaper variants that only support 1g.
I lied, this does not work.
I ordered one from Amazon that people said correctly negotiates 2.5 with the modem and 10 with the UDM pro.
Wiitek SFP+ to RJ45 Copper Modules, 10GBase-T Transceiver Compatible for Cisco SFP-10G-T-S, Ubiquiti, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, Mikrotik, Unifi (Cat 6a/7, 30-Meter) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07P39G4XJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FWQ98WB12KKRP7VT13WX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> My modem has a 2.5GbE RJ45 port, but the UDM Pro only has 1GbE RJ45 or 10 GbE SFP+ for the WAN, no apparent multi-gig RJ45 WAN. This little guy shows a 10 GbE connection to my UDM Pro and a 2.5 GbE connection to my cable modem.
Since switches with SFP ports are typically going to be relatively more expensive than a regular switch, you could buy two media converters at either end of the connection, then plug those into regular switches. I used a pair of media converters for this purpose and it worked great. This is the one I have: TP-Link Gigabit SFP to RJ45 Fiber... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATL0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Amazon sells this for nearly $28.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Portable-Bluetooth-Transceiver-Nintendo/dp/B00ZYYPFHU/
On sale through woot for 40% discount.
Couple thoughts
* UF-MM-1G I have had issues using these. Best luck I have had was direct patch cables like
*They don't load balance. One port is primary other is "back-up" so to speak. So heavy trafficon 1 port is common but the light off is weird (have 50+ users and kbs on 2nd port)
*Could be a bug
*You did set port to aggregate on both sides right? Assuming so if it works
*Light is broken?
Sure it was this one:
10G SFP+ Twinax Cable, Direct Attach Copper(DAC) Passive Cable, 0.5-Meter, for Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU0.5M, Ubiquiti, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, Mikrotik, ZTE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRLWCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Mu6aGbZSRXQP4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's not an SFP patch Cable. That's an LC to LC Fiber cable. SFP is the port into which the LC Fiber Transceivers go, into which you'd plug this cable.
OP's looking for something more like This although I think 18" is the shortest they come.
An ESP8266 + MQTT is your answer. I built a few out myself and created the DTH (based on an existing RGB wifi handler) to go along with it.
Here's my post on the ST community with links to NodeMCU code, the DTH, and the ST MQTT bridge https://community.smartthings.com/t/device-handler-for-nodemcu-using-mqtt/121076/50
For the actual ESP module, check Amazon, they start around $5 - i went with this one, and have not had many issues issues (running 5 in various places) - they do sometimes freeze if they run some of the animations for too long, but solid colors never give any problems: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010O1G1ES/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't have centurylink, but do have fiber 1gb up and down) being handled via PPPoE and VLAN in my Orbi. My setup as follows, hoping it can help.
- Pulled the SFP module out of ISP provided crap (router, modem, wifi etc...)
- Put SFP into an SFP>RJ45 Media Converter I picked up on Amazon
- RJ45 from Media Converter into Orbi WAN
- Orbi Advanced/Advanced Settings/VLAN Bridge Settings: Check Enable VLAN/Bridge Group, Enable By VLAN Tag Group. Add the new VLAN Tag Group entry using the VLAN tag required by your ISP (201 in your case). Priority set to 0. The entry shows as all Wired Ports and Wireless
- Orbi Advanced/Setup/Internet Setup: Connection Requires Login = Yes, ISP = PPPoE, Enter Login and Password for ISP
Regarding the specific question around WiFi - I don't believe it gave me an option, but after the VLAN entry was created, it showed Wireless and Wired were on.
My first recommendation would be to if possible set up an Ethernet connection. That will most likely be your absolute best bet. However, if that is not possible at this time, getting a USB WiFi adapter (can be purchased locally at most tech stores or you can get something like this on Amazon, depending on your ISP's speeds) should serve you well for now.
Maybe something like this one? I haven’t personally used it but it has good reviews. It supports aptX Low Latency, which is great if your headphones support that
Nintendo did not fix the d-pad, sadly. The issue is that it’s too easy to do diagonal inputs. It’s fine for most games, but is annoying in ones that need an accurate d-pad
It is a 10 Gigabit Fiber switch. I assume that's what's throwing you off. In each port, instead of a standard copper Ethernet cable, you install Fiber SFP Transceiver modules and connect to other devices using fiber patch cables.
You can purchase a compatible wireless dongle and use that. I have this one for my desktop but you may need a direct connection as well. I'm not actually sure