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Why don't you get a 1440p display, cheaper sata ssd, cheaper cpu and mobo (ryzen 2, since you'd be playing on a higher res than 1080p ryzen 2 won't bottleneck and you won't need an aftermarket cooler) and you can step down to a 600/650w psu
you'll save: $176.88 on the cpu and cpu cooler (you'll also save some on the mobo). you'll save around $30 depending on the sata ssd you get (possibly more). save more than $30 and get this psu. So a total of around $295
you can get an Acer G247HYU for $230, you can find better deals on 1440p monitors tho
You'll get an overall better experience for slightly less money
Both of those errors are related to a bad PSU and/or CPU. Typically people think it’s ram because of the type of error code it is but that’s not always the case. Get a psu tester. If the power supply is good move to CPU assuming you have tested your ram in each slot one stick at a time individually then paired. Computer PC Power Supply Tester, ATX/ITX/IDE/HDD/SATA/BYI Connectors Power Supply Tester, 1.8'' LCD Screen (Aluminum Alloy Enclosure) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CLNPPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oNEMDbQCJFC18
500W should be enough if OP wants to keep costs down.
The GeForce GTX 980 Ti's TDP is 250W, i7 6700 draws 65W, so between CPU and GPU it's only going to pull 315W, that leaves almost 200W for other components, HDDs are going to pull less then 10W each, much less for SSD.
The similar model EVGA 650W is reduced to $49.99 though, so for the extra $10 it would probably be worth picking up that instead for future proofing, but 500W will 100% run the system above otherwise I wouldn't have suggested it.
I only have a EVGA 500w 80+ certified PSU. That is too weak for the Fury, right? I can sell this PSU to my business (I need to build a new computer for it anyway) and use that money toward a better PSU if I wanted but what would be a good (and relatively) cheap PSU to run the fury. I prefer Newegg or Amazon Prime.
EDIT: Fuck it, I pulled the trigger. Was sitting on the money to buy XFX/Nitro+ 480 but I've been rocking this 6950 for too long and I'm tired of waiting at this point. This seems like a killer deal for $275 and free shipping (I used the Paypal promo). Here's to new GPUs!
Worth noting for larger setups you can do power more cheaply when running larger numbers of nodes by sharing a power supply between nodes with something like this with a bit of extra setup.
I was going to recommend the EVGA GQ 650 for $50 but this Enermax is Tier A compared to the Tier C for the EVGA. For those of you who don't care about the tier system, heres the EVGA 650 GQ for $50
Amazon price matched that Walmart deal so if anyone missed it, check it out! Also it's available on primenow meaning you can get it tomorrow! https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B00EON40CS?qid=1494323845&m=AQCUSYIS91P2B&sr=1-0
edit: Amazon and Walmart are huge and it's good seeing walmart fight Amazon. In the end we all win.
2nd picture, rectangular chip, 4th silver connector on right side down, burnt connection and chip
You should check with the seller for a replacement power supply first, otherwise
or this should work from amazon but it won't fit in the box according to the reviewer, still 18.99
Then you are running a huge fire hazard. Here is link to the psu im using: https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG Mosfets can be found on amazon/ebay aswell. Marlin is free software and soldering just need a soldering iron and your skills. I would not recommend you to use it before you do these upgrades.
When you have done these upgrades, then you can start to troubleshoot the other problems. I am sorry, but I do not know what's causing the sounds.
chances are that PSU does not put out its rated wattage -
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48 bucks for an EVGA 80plus 500w psu if you can stretch it- never really want to skimp out on psus if possible even this evga is questionable for me - a psu failing if your lucky will only end up costing you the psu - but in reality psu failure can take alot of your hardware with it.
The Corsair RMX750 is also on sale for 149.99 in stock
I just ordered this: https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CP-9020179-NA-RM750x-Modular-Supply/dp/B079HGN5QS?th=1
Think I should cancel for this one instead? Seems like it may be better (toms hardware review seems promising) although I dont need wattage beyond 750, and even that is a bit much for new system.
I agree with the other poster. This is a cheap power supply. Don't let the Amazon ratings fool you. Never cheap out on the power supply. Why not at least spend 40 bucks more and opt for this.
The price ranges from 50-70 dollars btw. Remember putting it in my amazon cart when it was 54.99. So not really a sale tbh. Edit currently at 64.99$ on amazon https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476969917&sr=8-1&keywords=600w
Pricing similar on Amazon, minus the MIR. Just bought mine there.
The first piece of my first build! Been a console gamer for years and have had only Macs for work. Pretty excited!
Don't forget to check the bed control board on the back wall of the control box. Mine arrived with a wire loose.
There are 4 wires, two thin ones that go to the control board, and two thicker ones direct to the power supply, very short distance.
Also UNPLUGGED you might check the screws and wires on the power supply, one may have come off and shorted somewhere.
If that's true, it blew the power supply. (Bad news)
Good news - they're cheap to replace.
Here's one on Amazon that works:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG
I looked closely at your pics and all looks OK, it's probably the power supply. Be happy, it's the least expensive thing in there!
Seriously, look for loose wires, the big ones that are screwed on, not the little ones with white plugs. Look both at the terminal block of the power supply and where those wires go into the motherboard.
If no joy there, (and just to be thorough) check the wires to the bed and turn the printer over and check the bed heater with good lighting. You'll know if you see a problem ....
Good Luck!
PuterPro
Gonna be as many different suggestions as opinions; that said am using this style from Amazon and Molex style connector soldered in to replace the stock power connector. Replaced all my stock barrel connectors after melting one, don't think it's the best choice for a printer with heated bed.
This. My power supply was dead on arrival and wouldn't fire up. The ones that ship with the kit are kinda crap.
Bought this one on Amazon and it's been great for 1.5 years.
eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gmb4Cb8FSPKHQ
I’d check the PSU using a tester. 12 dollar tester on amazon should work. Otherwise the motherboard would be the next test item. Seems like the motherboard is sending power to some of the components and not others. Maybe the power supply has a bad rail or isn’t sending the right voltage.
Also, replace the battery in your smoke detector.
This is what I have:
Corsair CP-9020179-NA RMX Series RM750x 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular ATX Power Supply https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B079HGN5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_6RPM75F5YEMCJ8QNYM04
I think it's cheaper than yours, and fully modular:
be quiet! Pure Power 11 600W, 80 Plus Gold, Power Supply https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07JJL3QRG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VVVFDTKJRDQKDVMTD6VB
I would start with stress testing each component to ensure the hardware is working as expected. You can't start with the RAM by using this tool, https://www.memtest86.com/. From there test your CPU with something like Prime95. Next, move onto the GPU. I prefer to use FurMark as you can just run the test for hours on end. There's really no software to test a PSU, so you'll need a hardware tester like this one, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CLNPPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_DP2DCB1HFKXD0TX20RRC.
Generally when running stress tests you want to run the tests for at least an hour. Make sure you're closely monitoring the temps to make sure the software doesn't damage any of your components.
If you want to test your PSU, get this cheap tester. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CLNPPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also I would suggest if you don't already have it download the Blue Screen View program. That will more than likely tell you what error you are getting if you don't see the BSODs, if any.
I've used Supernight LEDs a decent amount and, while they don't have as true a color as much more expensive brands, like Adafruit, they're an excellent value. What you need to know about RGB LED strips is that they're powered by 12V and use more current the longer the strip your powering. I metric I use is on the Adafruit website, here. So, if we need 60mA for each 3 inch segment and you want to power 50 feet (damn), then let's do the math.
50 feet is 50*12 = 600 inches
Our estimated current draw for each 3 inch section os 60mA, so 60mA/3inch or 20mA/inch is our scalar.
A rough estimate for the current you're dealing with is 12A (again, damn).
You should look in to using something like this. That little dude will give you all the power you could need. Really you probably only needed a 15A, but the only 15A with any reviews on Amazon was a Supernight brand and also cost 20 bucks, so I thought for 5 bucks more I'd probably just build it like a tank and have confidence in my power supply.
As to whether I'd trust the Supernight controller to handle 12A, I'm not sure. I've never used their controller before, but it's possible.
Also, check this out for other tips about the printer.
I think the heat beds are aluminium now, maybe I am wrong. Anyway, order that stuff, it will make the heat bed work less to get to temperature.
You will also need a power supply, I use a 30 dollar one from amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer-Project/dp/B00D7CWSCG
Rule of thumb:
Any mother that has a Z like a Z97 is meant for overclocking whereas H series are just standard.
Like I said I built a pic last weekend with an i5 4690 and an ASRock H97 Pro4 and it went flawless so you wouldn't be disappointed there.
Edit: plus it would match your RAM.
Second edit: you might be pushing it with 450watt and a r9 380. If you can afford it, I can recommend the EVGA G2 series enough. Top tier in terms of quality and fully modular so cable management is a breeze. I would look for other builds and see if anyone has gone 450watt with that video cards.
Power supply recommendation: EVGA 220-G2-0550-Y1 80 PLUS GOLD 550W ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI Ready and Crossfire Support Continuous Power Supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-438-053
Another edit: Even better, the 750watt version of the G2 is the same price as the 550watt version on Amazon.
EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 80+ GOLD, 750W ECO Mode Fully Modular NVIDIA SLI and Crossfire Ready 10 Year Warranty Power Supply 220-G2-0750-XR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_qsyHwb8X08VYH
All looks good, I would suggest getting this power supply instead
simply because it has a proven track record for being reliable (291 reviews on newegg at 5 star average and tons of amazon reviews). Another thing would be to wait on the GTX 960 until the benchmarks come out on the Radeon RX 480 because it is the same price and the 480 could perform better.
This looks like a solid build, but I would consider the EVGA 650W GQ (80+ Gold, ECO) a better choice. You can get it on Amazon for $69.99.
Does it have to be new? I just bought this for $55 on Amazon Warehouse Deals with 20% off.
FO4 will definitely keep you involved. I've gotten 150+ hours on it already and I haven't even played the DLCs. Just getting into building all the settlements up. Also, if you have Steam (which I am assuming is where you have your FO4), grab Evolve since it's free across the board. Fun little arena shooter.
Also, on Amazon you should grab this PSU. I ordered it for my old desktop (since I pulled its out for my new build this weekend). Great price and should do you well. It's non-modular, but the price might get it to you for the new build sooner.
As for the ordering on Amazon for the GPU, I have no idea how long it will take. I really am not sure what Amazon did. They didn't even have them listed (for almost all model 1060s) before they were on back-order. So I am hoping that just means they got their shipment later than other retailers and they will be up soon.
You don't have to spend an arm and a leg on a PSU to get one that isn't going to completely fail you or damage your other, more expensive parts. Amazon has the EVGA 500w for $37.48. It's a low-cost option that won't damage the goods. Check the JonnyGuru site for reliable reviews on power supplies and see for yourself.
You have an unlocked processor (meant for overclocking) and an H170 motherboard (cannot overclock). If you want to overclock, you need a Z170 board. If you don't want to, then you should get the i5-6600 (or 6500) - no "k" on the end.
For a couple bucks more, the EVGA G2 is a better power supply
You are handcuffing your framerates a little bit with that monitor since it is only 60hz, and it's a little expensive as far as 60hz IPS panels are concerned. You can get cheaper 60hz IPS panels, or you can spend more cash on a high refresh rate monitor instead
I assume you are buying all your parts on Amazon for some reason, however, I would highly recommend looking at jet.com for the video card. They are running a promotion right now, for 15% (up to $30) off your first 3 orders, with code "triple15" - you can save a good deal on a 1060 there instead of paying close to $300 on Amazon.
The EVGA 600b is currently $40 at Amazon and is a better pick than the CXM (though CXM isn't as bad as most people make it out to be).
But yeah, solid build.
As this person specified that PSU should be good. I that your best buy link was Canadian so here is a Canadian amazon link to almost identical PSU. https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485987043&sr=8-1&keywords=power+supply
I dont think its worth it. You can squeeze higher clock speeds and maybe help stuff run a little faster. But IMO its not worth the price increase and time you will spend tinkering. Its just a hobby to some.
Aftermarket cooler isnt necessary. The benefits are that they are MUCH quieter and keep the processor MUCH cooler. The stock cooler is loud and only cools it to the minimum needed.
Do you have to buy at Amazon?
- RX 480 8gb (not 3gb) will be a better and cheaper card.
- The case is like half the price on newegg.
- Much cheaper Power Supply that will perform the same https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487886799&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+600b
For sure! Some of your parts on your list come from OutletPC, so here's the cheapest 580 I could find (http://www.outletpc.com/mq1372-gigabyte-radeon-rx-580-gvrx580gaming4gd-4gb-256bi.html?utm_source=mq1372-gigabyte-radeon-rx-580-gvrx580gaming4gd-4gb-256bi&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=pcpartpicker&utm_content=Gigabyte%2B-%2...)
I didn't read your whole post at the time of posting my comment. If you're an Amazon Prime member, this PSU is worth it for $30 (https://smile.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1494877028&sr=8-10&keywords=crucial+ballistix+sport+8gb&sa-no-redirect=1)
I'm partial to the EVGA PSU's, suggest a 750w or higher, here is an example through Amazon - Not a referral link, you can google prices across the web, this is only one example of what I use on my dual PSU setup.
Very sorry to hear this!
Odd are good it's a power supply issue. :-(
A lot of times the power supply will go wonky (that's the tech term, sorry ...!) and shut down. You must UNPLUG it and let it "rest" for about 15 mins before it works again.
Turning the power switch ON after unplugging sometimes speeds it up, but the printer is useless if you can't trust it to stay on!!
It's possible it's the motherboard, this capacitor thing is still new enough a problem that we're just seeing the 1st few factory boards arrive in the field, so there's not much track record.
Plus no one who's a real Tech or Engineer has reported what Creality is doing on the fix, what's they're actually replacing, and what parts they've chosen to use.
Plus, we don't know if LITB is not just doing the repairs in-house to their existing boards...
You can fight with LITB Tech support, see if they'll send you a new power supply, or you can do what I'd do - replace it myself.
Here's one on Amazon that will work:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/
Under $20 ... up to you, but for that price ... even if it's NOT the power supply, LOL!
Let us know what happens!
PuterPro
There's a 30a PSU on amazon with great reviews and is under 20 bucks with 2 day shipping. Your printer will likely never get near the 30a it's capable of.
I wouldn't advise going with that psu if you're planning to overclock. There is currently a good deal on amazon on this psu. It costs a bit more but it's well worth it.
On the other hand you might be able to save a few hundred bucks by going with a gtx 1060 instead of 1070ti. If you're going to play games at 1080p and 60fps gtx 1060 will be more than able to handle them.
You could buy a PSU tester like this one: Computer PC Power Supply Tester, ATX/ITX/IDE/HDD/SATA/BYI Connectors Power Supply Tester, 1.8'' LCD Screen (Aluminum Alloy Enclosure) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076CLNPPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WnvzFbX752VYP
I think it’s the same one I have and it works well. Here’s a video that shows you what to look for: https://youtu.be/T-jG3vqRQHM
Also if you have a multimeter you can use that instead, the video covers that as well. Worst case scenario is that you only spent $15 on a tester that can be used later and the PSU isn’t the problem.
What I mean is check they're fully plugged in on the PSU side.
Would you be able to get a proper PSU tester? The paper clop test only verifies the PSU can be turned on, not that it's actually functional.
and if you could get some pictures of the board and how it's set up, that would be very helpful.
Oh yeah this psu is in a great sale, its evga as well
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https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Warranty-Supply-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8
Anyway if you want more help from the community post again with detailed information on what you want out of the pc, budget, etc
will this PSU be able to supply a 480 8gb and an i3 6100? I will probably upgrade the 6100 to a 6500 , its for my little brother. I also have a 750w Bronze something EVGA psu if need be, I just dont wanna go through all that hassle
EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_utIKyohojJs7t
The case has vents right where the psu exhaust is so no issues.
+
http://gpushack.com/collections/all-gpus-for-sale/products/msi-r7950-twin-frozr
for < $200
Used, but tested, and comes with a 2 year warranty.
Lower, but not zero. Since it's the producer of the power it's far more likely it's killed everything else - primarily the motherboard and GPU - but there is a chance power got fed back along the wrong lines too.
I would recommend getting an inexpensive PSU tester to verify voltage outputs before plugging it back into anything. I don't know where one would be sold in Australia, but where I am in the USA they are extremely cheap and easy to obtain, so cheap that it's almost silly not to have one when working with computers.
hey just grabbed the first link as an example- but this is what it looks like, a majority of the time it’s mounted on the bottom of the pc at the back side of the case where you would plug everything in, it may be blocked by a cover. If you can send some pics of the case or upload a video of the inside booting up it would be very helpful.
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM750x-Certified-Modular-Supply/dp/B079HGN5QS
For the power supply there are tools to test the output, for example: https://www.amazon.com/Computer-PC-Tester-Connectors-Enclosure/dp/B076CLNPPK
As for the GPU that's hard to test if you don't have another known working PC you can slap the card into.
Could be the PSU but I've seen these sort of problems from memory, GPUs and motherboards too. Could even be a loose wire or screw in the case shorting the board. You're going to have to rule out individual components one by one. Remove any component that is not required to POST, like your GPU assuming you have onboard video, sound cards, whatever you got in there. You can POST with a single stick of RAM. For your sake I hope it's something easy like a failing PSU. You can test your PSUs with something like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Computer-PC-Tester-Connectors-Enclosure/dp/B076CLNPPK/
Hey so sorry I forgot to follow up. Still need a psu? Here's what I've got
Heres some pics https://imgur.com/a/lQYfkEd. Great shape, got all the original cables.
There are several ways you could check voltage:
Some motherboards will measure and display the PSU's 12V, 5V, and 3.3V outputs in BIOS. Additionally a program like HWinfo64 may be able to display these measurements in software (depending on support from the MB). This isn't necessarily the most accurate or reliable measurement, but certainly the easiest.
A purpose built PSU tester can be used to safely and easily take an external measurement of the PSU. Readings from these are quite accurate, although they can only test at 0 load.
You can also measure with a multimeter, you just need to be careful as there's more risk that you accidentally short or damage something. For added safety, you can disconnect the PSU cables from the system first, and jump start it for testing.
Or you could swap in an old video card and see if that works. If it doesn't, either the PSU or motherboard are probably dead.
The RMx is a very good PSU, and you only have a ~550W system. Even with the 3090's transient power spikes, the RMx should be fine.
However, power surges from the wall can kill any PSU. Have you had any recent power outages? Is your PC connected to a surge protector? When the power comes back on, it can surge and overload electronics like a PC PSU.
The lights and fans turning on does not necessarily mean the PSU is fine, but if you have a surge protector or haven't had any recent power outages; my guess is the motherboard died. It really is a bit of a coin flip though.
Wait are you talking about the 4-pin adapter for the for 20-pin plug? I've never had to plug in more than a 24-pin and an 8-pin (or two). I'm not even sure my EVGA Gold PSU has that.
I just ordered this PSU (should be here on Friday) to test: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017HA3SQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Alright, I've replaced the fan, once again thank you for the tip. Would never have noticed that otherwise, and I would never want my fans running at full power.
One last thing: I think I'd prefer to use a well-rated brand name PSU such as this one: https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-Modular-Warranty-Supply-210-GQ-0650-V1/dp/B017HA3SQ8
Call me paranoid, but I really want this PC to last me a while and to run at near peak efficiency, and as far as I can tell, EVGA makes the best and most popular PSUs. However, if you can think of a different cheaper/better brand name PSU (such as an Asus or Corsair one), I'd be happy to hear it.
well the min your supposed to have with a 3080ti is 750 wat and thats enough for everything else you already have so this should be decent
That model will likely not work, as it appears you need a 12v, 30A power supply just like the ones used for many other Creality printers. I would highly recommend buying one from the official Creality website (here's a link), but if you absolutely can't afford that one, this one on Amazon seems like it would work.
This is the one I have:
It has two VGA 8 pin spots and two CPU 8 pin spots. Not sure if I could get away with using the extra CPU slot. But the cables are currently at my parents house and I wouldn’t be able to get them until tomorrow.
have you tried the ram sticks in slots a1 and b1 instead of a2 and b2 then switch them to a2 b2 after you get it to boot up? Also remove the CMOS battery, and hold the power button down for about 20 seconds put cmos back in and try. After that i'd start at the power supply this looks suspect of power supply failure. Here is a way to find out in 15 mins if your power supply is bad. https://www.amazon.com/Computer-PC-Tester-Connectors-Enclosure/dp/B076CLNPPK
more than 10A on an adjustable power supply gets expensive fast.
Other people recommended a 30A 12v power supply (or larger), which is probably the most bang for the buck.
If it wont post at all but its getting power, then the mobo prob fried somewhere (obviously I cant say for certain if I can't run diagnostics on it, I'm just talking about the odds). If you're still under warranty send it back to the manufacturer.
Also obviously the power supply is also in question. If you don't want to take it into a shop buy one of these. Youtube has tutorials.
Corsair RMx 750W (2018) looks great - https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM750x-Certified-Modular-Supply/dp/B079HGN5QS?th=1 19000 reviews 5 start
You can buy this to test your power supply. It’s about $15 plus tax for it so it’s cheaper than buying a whole new motherboard.
Thats usually it's a sign of a bad power supply. You can get a power supply tester on amazon for fairly cheap. Disconnect it from your motherboard completely before using the tester. This is the tester i use and it has been pretty reliable so far.
From all the power supplies that I have ever tested, the PG value was always between 200ms to 500ms. From everything that I have read, the value should be 100ms to 500ms. This is the power supply tester that I am using. https://www.amazon.ca/Computer-PC-Tester-Connectors-Enclosure/dp/B076CLNPPK?th=1 The tester beeps when the PG value is too low. When I tested all three of the Asus TUF 650Watt Power supplies, the tester was always beeping so that's why I think there is something wrong with the power supply.
Replace the thermals on the GPU and CPU first. If you have not done in in 8yrs it may be dried up. Clean dust of all components. etc.
Get something cheap like this - cheaper on aliexpress if you willing to wait. I have an antec900 still working 10yrs.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Computer-PC-Tester-Connectors-Enclosure/dp/B076CLNPPK
I have a similar setup with my G90 to what you are looking at.
Antenna: I went with the Nelson UJM-EFHW-40-10, because I wanted to get started with an antenna that was resonant and not dependent on a tuner. The G90 has one but I wanted some flexibility in the future. People have suggested kits. Kits are fun, but when I got my first setup I just wanted to get on the air. I got the kits later and have enjoyed experimenting with them knowing that I still have an antenna that just works.
Power: I have a bioenno battery and love it for portable work. However, if you are going to use this in a fixed location you should look at a simple power supply. Linear power supplies are the gold standard, but I use a $19 regulated switching supply and it works very well for me. (In other words, it doesn't make my noise floor worse. I have a wife and kids and live in a residential neighborhood, if I want a quiet noise floor I go to the state park with my battery.) This is the exact one I use https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG I had to hook up the power to it, but it's not hard and I can send you pictures of mine all wired up if you go down this route.
RF Choke: I made my own using this $12 toroid and a short run of coax. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01959LAFA/ It made a noticeable improvement when I attached it to the back of the radio.
There are so many ways to go about this. Mine is not the best… I've made some compromises for sure but this has worked well for me. Hopefully, some of my notes help.
Btw if you want $15 off the G90 PM me and I'll send you a discount link they gave me when I purchased mine.
Ooof. Psu testing is hard without getting lost…. Cheapest I found was on Amazon so far
Computer PC Power Supply Tester, ATX/ITX/IDE/HDD/SATA/BYI Connectors Power Supply Tester, 1.8'' LCD Screen (Aluminum Alloy Enclosure) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CLNPPK/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_HW330N9ZKSJNHRNW3C80
If you have another 8pin connector. And it’s a 3 phase psu. Make sure the free 8pin connector is from a different phase, and plug it in place of the current 8pin connector.
Otherwise you’d have to test the psu… didn’t realize it was new. And (unlikely. But possible to get a faulty one). Switching to a different 8 pin would do it.
I’d swap in a different stick of ram and give it a go again…
Well your best bet first would be to have spare parts lying around, but I'm going to guess that you do not have an extra power supply; otherwise you could put another in and give it a 20 minute benchmark. If it shuts down, then it's 100% the motherboard. If the problem stops, then you know the PSU is bad.
Another way to test the power supply would be to buy a product such as: https://www.amazon.com/Computer-PC-Tester-Connectors-Enclosure/dp/B076CLNPPK
This can be plugged into the power supply cables and it will read out the voltages going through the rail. If any of the numbers come up as under/overvolt; then that indicates an issue.
The motherboard however would be harder to test without another one (which also has to fix that CPU).
You could find out what the model number of the motherboard is (It should be printed on the motherboard itself), and then Google that board and see what the cost of a replacement is going for.
You'll be able to get it a lot cheaper by ordering it yourself, vs having the company do the repair. They'll add a few hundred $$ just for labor.
This is either cpu or psu. I suggest you get a psu tester and check the power rails. I had a newly purchased seasonic psu and turns out it had failing rails. Got it swapped and haven't had a single shutdown since. My computer would always shutdown and restart fairly quickly. It happened to me maybe every 2-3 days but it would occur even if it was just desktop/chrome.
It's a bit hefty on the price but a great psu for upgrades in the future as well EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W Power Supply( 100-W1-0500-KR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_KEV3J1Q040WHFWMAGQWG
Buy a DC power supply, attach it to your rack, and run wire. You can get bus bars for distribution, or some power supplies will have a few ports and you just jack the raw (or tinned) wire wire into the binding posts or terminals.
Not much more to it other than some appropriate size wire and crimping or soldering your barrel jacks on.
I'd just go on Mouser or Digikey or something.
I actually use one of these for testing small electronics project:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG
Very Chineseum quality but it works fine. You don't need to spend a lot of money on a "nice" bench supply, wall warts are already pretty mediocre quality.
I recommend a 750 Watt or 850 Watt PSU. You can get a good one for 100 USD, or sometimes cheaper.
Corsair RMX Series, RM750x, 750 Watt, 80+ Gold Certified, Fully Modular Power Supply (Low Noise, Zero RPM Fan Mode, 105°C Capacitors, Fully Modular Cables, Compact Size) Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HGN5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_W7SGBJB20WZMVZBTWCJH
Something like that one. That's IF you need to replace it.
Yeah, you cannot mix cables in any way always only use the cables that came with the PSU (or replacements made for that specific model)
Best case is you killed your second PSU, worst case is a lot of things are killed.
Sort out which cables go with what PSU, do not mix.
Dont try anything until you test your PSUs. Not worth destroying more while you fumble to see what is broken.
Test the PSUs. I imagine the second PSU is blown. You can also test the 850W to see if that was the original problem.
You then go from there. Check back when you have done all that.
(Really dumb question, did you turn the 850w switch on in the back)
ATX PSUs are easy. Just plug them in apart from the computer and test voltages. You can pick up a tester for cheap to do this for you so you don't have to break out the dodgy paperclip for starting the unit.
https://www.amazon.com/Computer-PC-Tester-Connectors-Enclosure/dp/B076CLNPPK
AT power supplies can be a bit trickier, i don't know of a cheap tester for these. Similar testing method though, you can google it for more info/pinouts.
Anything older gets very sketchy. Some of these must be plugged into the computers to generate proper voltages and can even be damaged if they aren't. Definitely look for help with the specific machine if it's not AT or ATX(12V).
I think OP should get this, yes 750W is overkill but its the same price as the 650W because its on sale, and will allow for more growth later when the upgrades for a better gpu and cpu
- Corsair RMx: (750 watt deal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HGN5QS
- Seasonic Focus Gold: (850 watts deal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WVMDZMZ
- EVGA Supernova G6
- Super Flower Leadex III Gold
Whichever you can find cheapest for your wattage requirements.
Idk about your country, but this is a great deal currently fron us amazon at $84 usd 750w 80plus gold fully modular. Corsair RMX Series, RM750x, 750 Watt, 80+ Gold Certified, Fully Modular Power Supply (Low Noise, Zero RPM Fan Mode, 105°C Capacitors, Fully Modular Cables, Compact Size) Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HGN5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NT2XR4YVWZDAG1T1V6F8
Corsair RMX Series, RM750x, 750 Watt, 80+ Gold Certified, Fully Modular Power Supply (Low Noise, Zero RPM Fan Mode, 105°C Capacitors, Fully Modular Cables, Compact Size) Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HGN5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_DSB1W8WMJR9H2MJSW6G5
Before buying a PSU, you should have just got a tester:
https://www.amazon.com/Computer-PC-Tester-Connectors-Enclosure/dp/B076CLNPPK
Unsure how old your computer is; but does it come with EZ Debug? Or any feature on the motherboard which displays an LED indicator if anything goes wrong during POST? (Your manual should tell you if this is a feature).
Does your monitor try to kick on at all? If so, what can you see?
Well, that PSU still could've been at the root cause of this issue if it had shorted something out...I mean one of those 650 BQ PSUs shorted out my Lian Li hot swappable HDD add on board, along with an RGB controller when it popped :/ Now, when most PSUs pop/trip their OPP you can get spikes and surges that can fry other PC parts connected to them and thus your PSU could've sent a surge through the 24 pin or 8 pin CPU power connection and fried the motherboard : (
Now, I myself have the luxury of having an abundance of spare PC parts lying around the house and several working rigs to swap parts into and test them to help troubleshoot issues like these but, without you having other working rigs that you can test that PSU with or a PSU testing unit (like this one https://www.amazon.com/Computer-PC-Tester-Connectors-Enclosure/dp/B076CLNPPK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=power+supply+tester&qid=1645159494&sr=8-3 ) well, then it's going be hard to know for sure if it was the cause, besides IMHO, I wouldn't take a chance connecting that BQ PSU to any working PC in fear of it repeating its OPP failure (if that is what really happened???) and thus possibly killing that PC's parts in the process :/
Intel is the better buy right now for gaming builds. I would swap to an i5-12400/12400F and a B660 mobo. This would also afford you the ability to use the stock cooler; the 12400 is a pretty cool running CPU that doesn't really necessitate anything more than the stock cooler.
32GB of RAM is pretty unnecessary for the games you play, I would hold off on that and purchase 16GB instead. I never found "future-proofing" to be an argument because nothing is preventing you from just buying more RAM 3-4 years down the line.
Replace the SN750 with a Sabrent Rocket.
IMHO, that's too much $ for a 750W power supply. Corsair sells a similar model for $20 less available here on Amazon, I would opt for that.
Power supply might be bad do you have a tester? this one works well https://www.amazon.com/Computer-PC-Tester-Connectors-Enclosure/dp/B076CLNPPK .
I'm pretty sure it's always been there, I just don't normally put my head to the back of my PC, but I have a fan that's bearing is on the way out and it happens to be at the back of my case.
I'm probably gonna wait and see though tbh because I know most of the things in my PC are under warranty (GPU, Mobo, CPU, not sure about RAM though) so I should hopefully be fine anyway. The PSU is listed as having all the protections a PSU of its price point should have anyway so in theory it won't go boom if it does decide to die.
In case it does go full IED on me, I'm probably gonna get this one from corsair:
Computer PC Power Supply Tester, ATX/ITX/IDE/HDD/SATA/BYI Connectors Power Supply Tester, 1.8'' LCD Screen (Aluminum Alloy Enclosure) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CLNPPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_H5MCJ27YJSQ1G75WX7CZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I’m using. It’s very vague on the instructions.
https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CP-9020179-NA-RM750x-Modular-Supply/dp/B079HGN5QS?th=1
$123 for the warehouse deals one, very likely to be sealed
a bit better than the G+ posted below
kinda limiting your options by buying from amazon only though
This should suffice for the time being. Since you don’t have a GPU, this should provide plenty of power for peripherals and all your components. It’s EVGA 80+ White, but it’s good enough for a cheap entry level PSU. You don’t really need an 80+ Gold/Platinum quite yet until you upgrade down the line where better hardware will be able to take full advantage of clean power delivery.
EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W Power Supply( 100-W1-0500-KR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_G76MPQR9G78G28ZFFC02?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
+1 for swapping that 3600 to a 5600x. Its a decent performance difference and for the price of that 3600 you wont be saving much by going with the last gen cpu.
That power supply is also absurdly overpriced. You could get this 750w RM750X for that same price or This RM650X for even less. over $100 for 550w is a scam.
Also, unless you really want to have an official win 10 key, its free to download it and you can use "totally legal" tools to get the full license.
This model: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
My ram is installed in the 2nd and 4th.
Idk if my bios is up to date, I've opened it like 3 times but it has never told me something about an update.
I'm using the cooler that comes with the Ryzen 5 3600.
No, I haven't. I could try this but I'm no really sure how to do it. I'll have to watch a tutorial on yt.
Everytime I connect it, the GPU light is always on. Nothing else reacts to the power button.
I'll try using the power pins to start when I get back home.
Ty
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HGN5QS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 how is this power supply?
i found this power supply but idk if it will work, i dont know that much about power supplys so i dont know if it has the right cables: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=dp_fod_3?pd_rd_i=B00H33SFJU&psc=1
i forgot to mention but my graphics card is an asus model gtx 760 graphics card
For your PSU comment: would a corsair PSU like this suffice? Similar wattage (750) plus 80+ gold certified.
Since it's a new case I'm assuming there definitely isn't a dust problem. Shutting off during gaming is usually overheating, but there could be other issues. You can get a PSU tester like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CLNPPK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_T6B3EH0B4RZFMR1DEGJA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They're pretty easy to use. But I would try to monitor the temps while the game is running, using something like HWMonitor (https://www.cpuid.com/softwares.html).
Good luck, let us know how it goes!
It could be a problem with the PSU. Try using a tester like this with it.
80+ Gold is actually the bare minimum and I've never heard of SilentiumPC. You can get a cheap $15 PSU tester something like https://www.amazon.com/Computer-PC-Tester-Connectors-Enclosure/dp/B076CLNPPK/ but that isn't foolproof. Do any LEDs show on the motherboard?
looks good but you could just make this last change https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM750x-Certified-Modular-Supply/dp/B079HGN5QS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=750+psu&qid=1638380314&sr=8-3
rm750x $100 instead of the MSI one for $99. RMx is a really reliable quality PSU.
What are you putting on the power supply to get it to turn on. Generally you need some type of load on it. We use to use testers to make them fire up.
Computer PC Power Supply Tester, ATX/ITX/IDE/HDD/SATA/BYI Connectors Power Supply Tester, 1.8'' LCD Screen (Aluminum Alloy Enclosure) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CLNPPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EQB61TAP5YRDSE4CEKP8
I might have to start using a PSU tester again. My old one was just led’s, new ones on Amazon with meters seem cheap… Computer PC Power Supply Tester, ATX/ITX/IDE/HDD/SATA/BYI Connectors Power Supply Tester, 1.8'' LCD Screen (Aluminum Alloy Enclosure) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CLNPPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BK392XYSDP1S8AAT49J0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
yep you totally can, thats the great thing about the long lived ATX Standard, you can pretty much stick a brand new ATX PSU into a 20 year old ATX Motherboard I've been using these for my recent retro builds
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https://amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU
I recently got a 3080ti through the EVGA queue. I just realized I only have two PCIe cables, and the 3080ti has three PCIe ports. Do I need a new PSU since it only has two PCIe ports on it, and two cables? Or can I buy a special cable to use? Link to PSU