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I assume I'll want some kind of table saw. I don't have one but I was gonna have a friend of mine help me with the cutting.
Something like this about right?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Ub--CbBDZ5612
One failure point I can see in this test before it even happens... leveling the laser.
He shows two levels: the cheaper one on Amazon states that its accuracy is 0.1^o while the more expensive one on MicroMark is accurate to 0.01^o. That is perfectly adequate for checking level over short distances, but over three miles the error balloons considerably.
With an accuracy of 0.1^o the potential error at three miles would be 110.6 inches. With an accuracy of 0.01^o the potential error at 3 miles drops down to 11.1 inches... still considerable.
More to the point... the casing of the laser is not guaranteed to be perfectly parallel to the laser beam itself. Using these levels to level the laser will only tell you if the casing is level, not the beam itself.
Right away I can tell this guy has not really understood what he's trying to do, because he states that an error of six feet could only occur if the earth's surface is curved and did not mention accuracy at all when discussing which level to choose - saying that two less accurate levels would somehow be more accurate than one more accurate level.
As for this guy's retarded thought experiment: on a curved earth level is defined as "equidistant from the center of earth" as he admits earlier in the video. Water flows from higher levels to lower levels as any child knows. If the water is level at both ends - that is, it is equidistant from the center of the earth, water will not flow because neither end is further from the center than the other. The water can't flow from higher to lower levels, because both are the same height. The fact he can't grasp this simple point shows why he's a flat earther - he's an idiot.
A tool like this will do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-822-Digital-Finder/dp/B00563TM32/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=woodworking+angle+gauge&qid=1627405115&sr=8-5
Analog angle finders work well to.
There may be cheaper options too, but this is the standard.
[edit] Here's one for $12: https://www.amazon.com/Protractor-Precision-Measuring-Carpentry-Baseboard/dp/B08333SFM1/ref=psdc\_553274\_t2\_B003CJSQ4S
So I just redid baseboard I did years ago, some lessons were learned. Lesson 1: Never try to do baseboards when you have a 1 month old baby. 2: buy this mitre angle tool and thank me later. https://www.amazon.ca/Starrett-505P-7-Miter-Saw-Protractor/dp/B003CJSQ4S. It’s now my favourite tool.
I've had a lot of problems doing things like this, and the only way I was successful was by getting a digital protractor and using that to set up my miter saw. Although I was getting close with normal speed square, etc. it wasn't really truly 30 degrees or 45 degrees or whatever, it was always off a bit. But with the digital protractor, you can set up your miter saw perfectly, and check each cut, and if you have to adjust the cut you can easily do that on a belt sander with just a tiny amount of effort. It's really made things much easier for me.
I've been a bike mech since 1972, and I can truthfully say that just about any saddle can be made better with the correct seatpost-height, Saddle tilt, and fore-aft position. A poorly-fitting bike frame only exacerbates any saddle issue you have.
All this being said, a Brook saddle can be adjusted by starting out with it a zero degrees level, then start raising the nose a degree or two at a time until you get the comfort you need. I finally bought a digital gauge to set on top of the saddle, but for years all I ever used was one of these: Johnson Level It will take a few rides to get to where you like it, so carry some tools to make adjustments.
Walls are never a perfect 90 degree. Pick up a Miter Saw Protractor to help find the exact angle.
When you find your angle, cut it slightly larger. Example, if the angle is 45 degrees, cut it at 45.5 degrees. That extra .5 will help close that gap.
I recently installed a bunch of trim and struggled. I found out that most of my problem was how I was cutting the trim.
First, grab a speed square and make sure the miter saw blade is at a perfect 90 degrees. If its off by even a hair, you will get angled cuts and it will never meet up perfectly.
Second, you need to make sure the trim is not moving or flexing on the saw. Check out this video, and take a look at the metal brackets on the miter saw that hold the trim up to the fence perfectly. You don't need those fancy brackets, a couple spare pieces of wood can be glued down and work just as well.
Find the exact angle and add .5, cut it at a perfect 90 degree and you should have some nice looking outside corners.
For the inside corners, check out some videos on coping the trim. It takes a bit of practice but it will help tighten up the inside corners.
This thing is a life saver. I use it all the time to find angles. I just framed a roof with 4 different pitches that all met in different valleys. Math gets you close but this thing dials it in.
For future corners, I suggest getting this:
Also, from the look of your first pic, the most unsightly part is the door jamb. You should sand and fill with wood filler and sand again.
Then, as everyone has said, caulk and paint
I used this to help with my stair skirt, helped a ton
Starrett Miter Saw Protractor, Prosite 505P-7, Angle Finder Gauge Cutting Guide Tool with Laser Scales for Carpenters, Plumbers, Building Trades, DYI Home Improvement, 7” Narrow Plastic https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_W3Z335QCNPN4NNGMM2HG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
GemRed 82305 Digital Angle Finder Protractor (Stainless steel, 7inch/200mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W395R5E/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_CW9155FR31PJRGP56MYM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Worth every penny.
I use this kinda thing.
General Tools 29 Plastic Protractor and Angle Finder, Outside, Inside, Sloped Angles, 0° to 180° , Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7P5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_F5FS2WXTNM30MYRAFEMS
Agreed - what looks like 90 degrees but isn't? Every single corner in every house I've ever lived in.
Buy one of these things my dude.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-822-Digital-Finder/dp/B00563TM32
this may not be exactly what he's talking about, but it'll work
I just used one of these cheap protractors for a couple of fin plug repairs. Worked well and the angles are spot on.
Starrett Miter Saw Protractor, Prosite 505P-7, Angle Finder Gauge Cutting Guide Tool with Laser Scales for Carpenters, Plumbers, Building Trades, DYI Home Improvement, 7” Narrow Plastic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D018MECZDCV5TK0EQNQR
One of these will save you a lot of heartache
This did the trick! Even worked for that other weird angled outside corner. This angle finder really helped get the cut perfect on both of the trim pieces: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08333SFM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Here’s the trim until I paint it black to match my wall paint: https://imgur.com/a/584qHfm
Thanks for the write up. I think I’ll go with this one
GemRed 82305 Digital Angle Finder Protractor (Stainless steel, 7inch/200mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W395R5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X4SRZR4VXT1HWG4W6CPZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
One suggestion I can make is to get yourself a digital bevel gauge like this one. That and a spirit level to ensure you have level shelves. The bevel gauge is not 100% necessary, as you could just use the spirit level to mark out the height of the shelves on the back wall, but it is a nice to have especially if you want to put an angled edge on the shelves on the left wall to match the slope.
First, 1/4 round isn't the same height as depth. Before cutting your miter make sure it's in the "up" position it will be on the wall. Second, you will need an angle finder to cut the proper angle at the sections in the center of the room. I find this miter angle finder to be very helpful for doing cuts like that.
First, draw the heights on the walls, measure up from the nosings, connect the lines with a level or chalk line and once you do that take a bevel gauge, transfer it to paper and use a protractor and then look up a table of angles online if you dont know how to divide that protractor angle into a useful degree
Or just buy one of these because it does all of that in one step in seconds. I've used one for 20y and its indispensable imo...lives in my tool belt
As others have said, buy yourself a miter angle finder.
This is the one I bought prior to redoing all of the baseboard and crown molding in my house. It has never let me down, perfect miters every time, regardless how wonky a corner may be.
At $25, it’s a no-brainer versus the amount of time and money spent re-working or re-cutting pieces.
Starrett ProSite Miter Saw Protractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Tl2.FbH6SE10W
Came here to say this is what I use in every home I’ve ever worked in and for how cheap it is it’s saved me 1000s of hours trying to figure out weird angles or even angle that have 2 degree differences.
Starrett ProSite Miter Saw Protractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_2N.7FbW07EFWS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Agreed!! I'm just trying to dial in my reads.. 1,2,3,4, etc... even trying to use halve degreees, might buy a this guy to help me out.
By the way, hows my technique? Do you do anything different than what i've mentioned? What i sort-of struggle with right off the bat, is choosing where I'm actually going to aim once I've measured. If there's not a ball-mark, leaf, stone, whatever to aim at, is there a way to choose a closer aiming point than something near the hole?
https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-505A-12-12-Aluminium-Protractor/dp/B0000DCBLW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=starrett+angle+finder&qid=1601356732&sprefix=starret+an&sr=8-5 buy this and check all your angles before you make any cuts. I know its expensive, but its pretty much the best carpentry protractor there is.
Also cut use your off cuts to test your miter angles. nail the miters together before nailing the rest of the board off, it sucks to have 10 nails in a board only to realize the corner isn't going to come together. The crown in OP's photo probably could've been made tight if they twisted the pieces together and joined them before nailing the rest of the board off.
FYI, Amazon has cheap inclinometers. You can get a pretty good estimate from a $10 construction inclinometer.