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don't worry dude, the other 99'11" of this line is still good, no need to rip it out
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518894673&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+kit&dpID=51DjZejC9oL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch should have everything you need for under $15 - will sort you out perfectly.
It took me about 20 minutes to learn to use the tools, and now whenever I need a short cable I can just make one. Boot split and frayed? Who cares, I'll just replace that bad boy, no throwing out the entire run for me. Drilling through a wall to feed a cable outdoors, how will the plug fit? No problem. So convenient as a future-proof ability to have under your belt.
Unsurprisingly, excellent instructions for dummies like me are incredibly prolific on the internet, including lots of great YT videos
As others have mentioned the interference from multiple unshielded cables right next to each other will be slowing your entire network down right now (loads of dropped packets and failed attempts), so I agree this is more /r/techsupportgore than MacGyver. Fix this right and everything will be significantly less laggy, plus you only gotta buy cheap tools once and then you're set to be able to make incredibly low price Ethernet lines wherever you live for the rest of your life
You need a tool that crimps the dupont connectors onto the wire.
If you are not using Pass-thru connectors. Do yourself a favor and get a crimper that supports it. It makes a world of difference. I will never go back to the old style connectors.
I use this at work and it hasn't let me down once.
https://www.amazon.com/Pass-Thru-Reliable-Klein-Tools-VDV226-110/dp/B076MGPQZQ
Here they are on Amazon Qibaok Crimping Tool Kit Ratcheting Crimper with 1550PCS 2.54mm Dupont Connectors and 760pcs 2.54mm JST-XH Connectors for AWG 26-20(0.1-0.5mm²) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZK5F8HP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F5QYZXT75V0PWWX5Q155
It'll need to be a cut and crimp tool, but I believe the loading bar style uses the same crimper. As long as it has a blade to cut excess cable length from the passthrough slots.
Here's the one I use: Klein Tools VDV226-110
It really is a game changer. You just get the wire order right and shove it through. No making sure theyre the same length so they all hit the metal inserts or messing up the order when inserting the loading bar.
Qibaok Crimping Tool Kit Ratcheting Crimper with 1550PCS 2.54mm Dupont Connectors and 760pcs 2.54mm JST-XH Connectors for AWG 26-20(0.1-0.5mm²) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZK5F8HP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QA38ZR6CNZN6W6VHVHBZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These types of wires are not meant to be soldered, best method is crimping. This looks like it might be the right setup for you, but there's a few different sizes of these kinds of connectors so it's hard to be 100% sure: https://www.amazon.com/Qibaok-Crimping-Ratcheting-Connectors-0-1-0-5mm%C2%B2/dp/B07ZK5F8HP/ref=sr_1_1_sspa
I just replaced another one of those. I use https://www.amazon.com/GeeBat-460pcs-Connector-Housing-Adapter/dp/B01MCZE2HM/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=geebat+jst&qid=1626918189&sr=8-1 Takes about a minute to do
Preciva Crimper Plier Set, 0.25-10mm²/AWG23-10 Self-Adjustable Ratchat Wire Crimping Tool with 1200 Wire Terminal Crimp Connectors and Wire End Ferrules (Crimping Tool+1200 terminals) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073TZ5BBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_D7WZH0PW25R43T28X4RP
If you’re going to buy a crimper and ends, it’s probably worth the frustration to get a pass-thru crimper. This one from Klein Tools has basically everything you need in it and, because it’s pass-thru, you never worry about whether or not all the wires made it to the end or if you accidentally untwisted the wires too much.
Crimping tool. I have hundreds of the things. If you want to send me the pinout and length, end to end, I will send you one for the cost of shipping.
otherwise... get this... https://www.amazon.com/GeeBat-460pcs-Connector-Housing-Adapter/dp/B01MCZE2HM
and this.
Just be warned that the die does not line up perfectly. You need to move the connector just a hair back from flush to get a good crimp.
TIP: For assembled wires, buy "DuPont ribbon cable" from EBAY, then remove the 1P female ends, then push them in 3P ends that you buy separately. To remove the ends, use a paper clip to push down the metal tab that keeps the pin in the housing, then slide it out, then push the pin in another housing.
On EBAY, you can buy ribbons cables with a mixture of male and female ends, such as F to F, F to M, M to M.
If you are going to drive a big load with those MOSFETS, then ribbon cable wire will likely be too thin, so you'll need to make your own.
To make the best crimps, you do a crimp tool. The cheap crimp tools are a cluster fuck of results.... some tools are good or ok, while others sucks. Some cheap crimp hand tools are a waste of money!
I own a precision medium-price tool, because I look at tools as a long-time investment. The Engineer brand PA-09 and PA-20 are highly recommended by everyone that has one. The 2 are similar except for the side of pins they can crimp. I own the PA-09. They are made in Japan, but you can purchase them from sellers in USA on AMAZON for about $40.
GeeBat 460pcs 2.54mm JST-XHP JST Connector Kit with 2.54mm Female Pin Header, JST-PH 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 /6 Pin housing Connector Adapter Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCZE2HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_itnWAbBEMEXWT. These are the connectors you'll also need a crimper. You can buy the Amazon recommend crimper, or look for Engineer Pa-09 if you want something nicer.
Those connectors are, but the wire that came on them IS NOT. It's 28 AWG which has a max rating of .228 amps for power transmission. Those wires are fine for the small fan, but not the blower. You'll need to desolder and resolder some thicker wires. You'll need at least 26 AWG but I don't go below 24 for ease of use.
Edit: After looking at the amazon link again and the pictures, you can probably slide the wires out of those connectors and use the metal connectors that are on those wires on new wires that are of a higher rating. I personally bought this set of connectors which can be used directly with blower fans such as yours. Plus, those connectors are also the same used for 3 pin endstops, 4 and 6 pin steppers and so on. Best 9 bucks I have ever spent.
Also, that fan seems kind of overkill for part cooling. I bought these and they are more than adequate. I use a single fan and I only have it at 70% (unless bridging) and it is plenty strong enough with just above 1/3rd the amperage.
mainframecustoms.com sells the molex brand pins as well as headers and quality wire for a good price. Go to Amazon and buy iWiss brand crimpers
You don't even need to buy wire, you could use the stock wires after you've shortened them. Just buy maybe 25 or so extra to get the hang of crimping before you start on your project.
I put the link in another reply already but here you go Qibaok Crimping Tool Kit Ratcheting Crimper with 1550PCS 2.54mm Dupont Connectors and 760pcs 2.54mm JST-XH Connectors for AWG 26-20(0.1-0.5mm²) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZK5F8HP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GUfKFbGADJES4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got this connector kit for swapping out the louder stock fans on the printer, so figured instead of ordering the correct BLTouch kit, I might be able to modify it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZK5F8HP
Piece of advice: get a real ferrule crimper. They are cheap and prevent really irritating to teach down problems if your plier crimping makes a mechanically unreliable joint.
Idk how far along you are in the process, but order way more nuts and screws than you think you will need. I've had to reorder them multiple times now and it's so annoying. Lots of drop in bolts for the extrusion and a little set of M3 screws has been an awesome help.
Just being careful and making sure to measure ten times and cut once, making sure everything lines up perfectly was really important for me to ensure as clean an outcome as possible.
One thing that has been an absolute lifesaver in organization (even though it looks like I have none) has been a nice set of JST connectors. I bought this kit on Amazon and wow is it so nice to make everything super cut and clean for this printer, everything clips in nicely and can be cut to exact length. Makes everything look a lot more professional.
Other than that, not sure off the top of my head, it's been a really long ride for me so far, so I'm sure I've forgotten a lot of things. I have been keeping a little build log if you're interested. It's been a little since I've updated it, but it has a lot of my research and process so far.
Edit: here's the Amazon link to the kit I bought, I'm in love with it
The guy above didn’t bother completely reading your post or has little knowledge with Ethernet cables. The cable you bought from Home Depot contains stranded conductors which are meant for patch cord use. This means that the cable can tolerate being moved around constantly because the conductors are flexible. As a result, these cables should not be used for long distances, in-wall, or terminated to a patch panel or keystone jack.
You should look into purchasing CMR or CM rated solid copper conductor Ethernet cable from Monoprice or other similar reputable cable manufacturers. Don’t go on Amazon and purchase the first cheapest spool of Cat6, make sure the specs are good. CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) conductors are not acceptable.
As for the termination, watch YouTube videos on how to do it. Most devices will auto negotiate regardless of what standard you used. However, I would recommend using the B standard for every cable you may terminate. This is a good kit to start out with.
I bought a Ethernet/phone cable tester with a crimping tool and few other things in a kit a few years ago on Amazon for around $16. The tester worked fine - Tester Kit
Just to add to what others have said, the black module in your pic can be used for Ethernet. It has 5 unused jacks, so you can convert 5 rooms from telephone to Ethernet by moving their corresponding cables from the green modules to the black module. That might be enough for your needs. Or you can get another identical one to convert 6 more in addition to the 5.
You’ll need a punch down tool to connect a cable to the module. The TRENDNet works for me.
A network tester will come in handy. One with a toner can help you figure out which cable goes to which room. And it will verify that you’ve wired things correctly.
If the rooms have telephone jacks instead of Ethernet, then you’ll have to replace them as well.
Just to be clear, the black module is not an Ethernet switch. It’s just a row of Ethernet jacks. They are not connected to each other. Once you punch down a cable, you’ll need to connect an Ethernet cable in the corresponding jack to a LAN port on your router. Or you can connect it to an Ethernet switch. Then connect the switch to your router. This will activate the Ethernet jack in the corresponding room.
It sounds complicated but it’s not. You can find tons of videos that will walk you through the process.
They crimp just fine on most fan, 0.1" pitch, and JST pins. They're secured well, but sometimes the pin isn't small enough to slide into the USB/audio connectors. So I have one of these for the extra bit if needed. I do the initial crimp with the MDPCX, then go over it with the smaller one.
I just did this conversion. It's not difficult, as most of the connections are 1:1 as others have indicated.
You can find the various manuals here. The one you'll be interested the most in is the ...PIN.pdf.
The only thing I really struggled with was the fans...
- FAN0 = part cooler/blower
- FAN1 = mainboard
- FAN2 = hot end
As far as the JST connector for the fan, I ended up using this kit from the Amazon with crimper and connectors. It also includes Dupont connectors as well. There are also versions with just the JST's for less as well.
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I love this crimper. As far as the PoE using Cat6 will be adequate with either a PoE switch or power injectors. No special head, but make sure you get Cat6 terminations as the wire gauge on 5E is smaller and will not work well. (this refers to your "American wire Gauge" question) Unless you have a lot of power outlets or romex in the same vicinity you will not need shielded. Keep in mind that it goes against most home codes to have ethernet in close proximity (conduits) of power cables.
get a proper tool to punch/cut your rj45 keystone jacks
this will push the cable in properly and cut at the same time.
Like the other person said, the right hand module (the one with the yellow cable) can be used for Ethernet. The left hand module is for telephone. If you don't need telephone, then you can move the blue cables to the right hand module. You should get a punchdown tool. The TRENDnet punchdown tool is pretty decent.
You may also need to replace the telephone jacks in the room with Ethernet jacks.
Then all you need to do is connect all of the jacks in the right hand module to the LAN ports on your router. If your router doesn't have enough LAN ports, then get an Gigabit Ethernet switch.
If your router is located elsewhere, you may have to move it here. Alternatively, if there is an Ethernet jack (or telephone jack converted to Ethernet) near the current location of the router, then you can connect one of the LAN ports on the router to the room jack. Then install a Gigabit Ethernet switch and connect it to all of the wired jacks in the right hand module in this picture.
Thank you so much for your help. I think I’ll go through with this kit: And so anywhere I see bare wire going into a terminal, I should take it out, crimp a ferrule onto it, then put it back into the terminal?