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YXGOOD 10 Pieces Tungsten Carbide Double Cut Rotary Burr Set with 3 mm (1/8 Inch) Shank and 6 mm (1/4 Inch) Head Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXURLTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4VW287ZK7STMKAT5RYKW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this set and the second from the left worked really well for me. I just kept it slow and cooled it frequently. This was also my first attempt at a spydiehole mod bc I’ve got another knife in mind that will get an even more extensive overhaul.
Thanks, I searched amazon this morning, never saw these. They will do until I can find a set of different types. I bought these last week: https://www.amazon.com/SE-82331TF-30-Piece-Titanium-Coated-Diamond/dp/B000P49BX8/ they're terrible, chipped the edges. I'd like a better smaller set, if anyone makes them.
I actually favor this idea as well, assuming you have enough depth left in the body to do so.
I would use my Dremel with the flex shaft, and get an assortment of carbide bits, like these:
I would shave the whole area down, including more around the edges until this flaw is “gone”, smooth out the shaved back area with successively finer sandpaper grits until it’s the same texture as the rest, then carve the fur detail back in. Practice on some other bisque pieces first. If you use those carbide bits turned on their side, you can shave back very fine areas. Don’t try this without the flex shaft and hang up the dremel. It will give you super good control.
I think this is going to be the best looking repair that allows you to get the soda firing you want. I think if you can approach it carefully enough, it may not show at all.
If there isn’t enough depth in the bisque to do this, I would fire the broken piece separately and epoxy.
But I’m a madwoman so I would go for the perfect fix, lol. There’s just no going back from that.
Do you have a Dremel, or other rotary tool?
I guess if I were doing it, I'd start by snipping off the cable (or snip it as short as you want it, if you're aiming to keep some of the cable).
I'd consider checking for any screws or obvious methods for opening it. If there is nothing, that's fine - skip that. If it can be opened, maybe try opening it and see about removing any electronics you can without screwing up it's ability to keep the exterior appearance intact. (Like, if removing innards, makes it impossible for the lens part to sit in place, then maybe just leave things as they are).
Next, I'd take an existing Rainbow High Doll and measure the size of the existing head hole. Then I'd draw a circle on the webcam in that size where I want the hole to go. (Probably aim for drawing it on with something you can remove, or maybe try drawing on it with a pencil.
Using a dremel and some sort of drill-type bit, start by putting a hole in the center of the hole you've drawn.
I recommend getting some bits like this - Carving Bits
Go slow, and aim for keeping your hole -smaller- than the circle you drew.
I have no idea what to expect from the interior of this thing, so there's going to be some improvisation depending on what you encounter.
Try doing some tests as you go, seeing if you can get the neck to fit in the hole at various points to see how things might be working.
Whether or not you'll need to put something on the inside of the webcam is gonna depend on your tests.
When the hole is a size that works, you'll want to sand the edges with sand paper. You'll probably need to take an xacto knife and go along the inside to remove any plastic burrs.
You’re in luck cuz I just so happen to be a Carpenter. What you described tells me that the deadbolt doesn’t line up with the deadbolt plate on the jamb of the door. This can be caused by numerous things but if you only have to put a little bit of pressure on the door in order for the lock to work, you can prob get away with removing some of the metal plate that the deadbolt is hitting (room side) with a rasp bit If you have to put a lot of pressure on the door, u have a different animal on your hands with adjusting the head for level, adjusting the jamb for plumb, OR cheating by adjusting the top hinge to pull the door up. Good luck !
Nice username. Love my K390 Microclean Spyderco's. I was just looking at the BRS version of the Thresher the other day and my exact thought was "if it had a thumb hole ....." .
Ok so I took the thumb stud out and used different shaped Carbide burr bits to enlarge the hole until it was the size I wanted. I started with a cone shaped on both sides till it got big enough then switched to a straighter bit. I did it on my small drill press dipping it in water periodically to keep the blade cool. It creates a lot of heat due to the enormous amount of friction. The bits I used are like this
Tungsten Carbide Burr Set 1/4" Shank 10PC Double Cut Rotary Cutting Burrs Die Grinder Bits for Steel and Wood Working, Grinding, Carving, and Engraving https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097BRDSZT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_36G6FAQCHQ0GAB0ECJ53
Now what I want to get for my next thumb hole mod is a solid carbide machining bit to actually cut the entire hole in one go. Not enlarging a small thumb stud hole but actually cutting a hole. They ain't cheap though and they require a drill press. This is what I mean
Kodiak Cutting Tools KCT166681 USA Made Solid Carbide End Mill, AlTiN Coated, 4 Flute, 1/2" Diameter, 1/2" Shank, 1-1/4" Length of Cut, 3" Overall Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070YYPP0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_Y7QGGRZWJQ27DMWZ4ZPG
I've seen several posts from guys saying they did theirs with a dremel tool using Carbide bits. The dremel carbide bits cut really well but being so much smaller it would take a while. Would still need to finish it up with some type of larger bit like a carbide burr bit so the hole would be uniform and round.
Just my 2¢: I wouldn’t get the mini chisels (and I don’t prefer the carbide); that chuck will do but you’ll want some jaws specifically for spindles; and I don’t like the diamond burrs on a dremel for wood work as much as I like the cutter heads like these: YXGOOD 10 Pieces Tungsten Carbide Double Cut Rotary Burr Set with 3 mm (1/8 Inch) Shank and 6 mm (1/4 Inch) Head Size (Style 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXURLTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0BRJ0Z9KQDBDZWMK41WB
YUFUTOL 20pcs Solid Carbide Burr Set 0.118‘’（3mm）Shank Tungsten Carbide Rotary Files Burrs with 3mm Cutting Head Diameter Fits Most Rotary Drill Die Grinder for Woodworking,Engraving,Drilling,Carving https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCRD5MW/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_05YM98XPKA5JRNMP1AXJ
These two sets should take care of pretty much anything
Thank you. Right now I'm using a Chicago electric version of Dremels heavy duty rotary tool. It's not great but it will work till I get a better unit. I've used everything from an old Dremel 300 up to the high end foredoms and they all seem to work pretty good. A flex shaft and a rolling stand are essential. I use an old IV stand because it's got wheels and adjustable height. For the burrs I use cheap carbide off Amazon. Double and single cut
YUFUTOL 20pcs Solid Carbide Burr Set 0.118‘’（3mm）Shank Tungsten Carbide Rotary Files Burrs with 3mm Cutting Head Diameter Fits Most Rotary Drill Die Grinder for Woodworking,Engraving,Drilling,Carving https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCRD5MW/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_05YM98XPKA5JRNMP1AXJ
Thanks. I used a dremel with the bits below to get them close then hand files to get them flat then 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper.
Rokrou Carbide Double Cut for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097CY5NK5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
UPDATE:
THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH FOR ALL THE RECOMMENDATIONS, HELP, AND ADVICE. I WAS ABLE TO GET IT OUT.
I bought this carbide burr kit from Amazon and it arrived the next day. I began by using the pointy bit to try and indent a spot in the middle. A couple of the bits went dull, but that's to be expected. It was definitely starting to make some progress. After that, I started messing with the thicker bits, and it was history from there. Those thicker bits ate through like nothing. Once you get a small hole going, it gets easier. Although I had gotten the broken extractor out, I just had to get the broken screw out next. I could've done it a couple different ways but I had too much trauma to be touching another extractor lol. So I ended up just widening the hole a bit more with some standard titanium bits. Then, using an M6×1.0 tap, I essentially retapped the hole which took some time to push the broken screw out the other side but it worked beautifilly. (Mind you, while retapping to get the screw out, I had to go really slow so that I don't brake the tap). Although I tapped the hole, it was still the same size as before and it took care of all the rust as well, which was what caused the problem in the first place! I really enjoyed reading everyone's comments, thoughts, and jokes. I learned a lot and I hope others can learn from this post as well. Thanks again.
UPDATE:
THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH FOR ALL THE RECOMMENDATIONS, HELP, AND ADVICE. I WAS ABLE TO GET IT OUT.
I bought this carbide burr kit from Amazon and it arrived the next day. I began by using the pointy bit to try and indent a spot in the middle. A couple of the bits went dull, but that's to be expected. It was definitely starting to make some progress. After that, I started messing with the thicker bits, and it was history from there. Those thicker bits ate through like nothing. Once you get a small hole going, it gets easier. Although I had gotten the broken extractor out, I just had to get the broken screw out next. I could've done it a couple different ways but I had too much trauma to be touching another extractor lol. So I ended up just widening the hole a bit more with some standard titanium bits. Then, using an M6×1.0 tap, I essentially retapped the hole which took some time to push the broken screw out the other side but it worked beautifilly. (Mind you, while retapping to get the screw out, I had to go really slow so that I don't brake the tap). Although I tapped the hole, it was still the same size as before and it took care of all the rust as well, which was what caused the problem in the first place! I really enjoyed reading everyone's comments, thoughts, and jokes. I learned a lot and I hope others can learn from this post as well. Thanks again.
UPDATE:
THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH FOR ALL THE RECOMMENDATIONS, HELP, AND ADVICE. I WAS ABLE TO GET IT OUT.
I bought this carbide burr kit from Amazon and it arrived the next day. I began by using the pointy bit to try and indent a spot in the middle. A couple of the bits went dull, but that's to be expected. It was definitely starting to make some progress. After that, I started messing with the thicker bits, and it was history from there. Those thicker bits ate through like nothing. Once you get a small hole going, it gets easier. Although I had gotten the broken extractor out, I just had to get the broken screw out next. I could've done it a couple different ways but I had too much trauma to be touching another extractor lol. So I ended up just widening the hole a bit more with some standard titanium bits. Then, using an M6×1.0 tap, I essentially retapped the hole which took some time to push the broken screw out the other side but it worked beautifilly. (Mind you, while retapping to get the screw out, I had to go really slow so that I don't brake the tap). Although I tapped the hole, it was still the same size as before and it took care of all the rust as well, which was what caused the problem in the first place! I really enjoyed reading everyone's comments, thoughts, and jokes. I learned a lot and I hope others can learn from this post as well. Thanks again.
you could get some of these dremel bits and put them in a drill chuck
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S8WRYH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I really think your going to want to get a dremel though as carving bits like this work better at higher RPM than a drill is going to go but its worth a shot to try, their cheap enough
Barring some metric sizes, burr’s generally come in either 1/4” or 1/8” shank diameters.
1/8” fit most rotary tools like Dremel. 1/4” fit most corded and pneumatic die grinders.
There are some 1/8” shank burr’s available in moderately large sizes such as 1/4”: Double Cut Carbide Rotary Burr Set - 10 Pcs 1/8" Shank, 1/4" Head
Generally most burr’s will not be available much larger than double the shank size, due to structural integrity issues when the bit is caught abruptly.
I measured both sides with the frame on and bolted from the top two bolts. Then made some marks with die punches, then measured again, etc. once I was confident I took a shot of tequila, grabbed my drill and these bits and did it over a few nights:
YUFUTOL Carbide Burr Set with 1/4''(6.35mm) Shank 8pcs Double Cut Solid Carbide Rotary Burr Set for Die Grinder Drill, Metal Wood Carving, Engraving,Polishing,Drilling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1YAX4Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q2R1QEPE0PD6JFGAT8JY
I bought a cheap chinese set of carbide burrs from Amazon. $11
I used the cylindrical one with the round head to grind out two bolts that held the sway bar clamps on one of my W163 MLs. The bolt goes through the control arm and the two clamp halves and is a colossal pain. The head breaks off of the bolt almost every time.
Very time consuming and it takes a lot of pressure on the drill to make it cut but it worked great. I used a 2x4 as a level and was probably putting close to 100lb of pressure on the drill. Took forever but it worked.
This set is on amazon. link
I’ve used it and it works well. Probably better tools out there, but for the price I was impressed
For finishing
Burrs
Sorry, went to bed. As long as you are slow and deliberate, I wouldn't think you would have a problem with cracking. There are some issues with the glass flaking off where you cut it, but that can be fixed with sanding.
I used these bits to finish the edges after cutting. The "globe" bit, 7th from the right, is what I used to drill a drainage hole in the glass.
edit: also, for sanding the edges, get Emery Cloth, it's in the sandpaper isle at home depot. It's sandpaper that is bound with cloth, so you aren't going to cut through on a sharp edge when you are sanding it down.
I've not tried it myself, but using a hand tool would seem to be the safer bet.
I believe i have also read someone say they used the Diamond Bur set that you can get on amazon. Google'd: This one maybe?
Thank you so much for this info, c0nduit. I really appreciate it. I aim to do carving in the round. I'll see if I can get away with a generic big hook instead of the stand. Would a hook > spring > motor help keep the motor's sound down / keep it from rattling or vibrating the wall/cabinet the hook is connected to? Or is that a non-issue? My bench doesn't support any of the elevated stands they sell.
Thanks for letting me know the big burrs that come with the kit are functional and I had no idea fire is the best medicine for a clogged burr. Thank you also for a look into your workflow. I will pick up the detail diamond files. I anticipate them being very helpful. I'll also get the diamond "detail" burrs cause they're also cheap and it sounds like small diamond burrs will work well enough in moderation. Hopefully those and a basic detail knife set for edges will get me through the first few projects and aim me towards a stronger detail game-- hopefully without acquiring another power tool :]
Am I right to think the small diamond, almost engraving burrs might be OK for very limited detail work? Or would they get clogged immediately and be a huge pain to repeatedly clear out?
Thanks again for 1 -validating my research and 2 - your thorough answers. This is a really big help.
And here you go:
SE 82331TF 30-Piece Set of Titanium-Coated Diamond Burrs, Grits 120-150 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P49BX8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_w8I7wbTKQKNKS
I've been pretty happy with those so far. I think I might try my hand at engraving sometime soon.
I have this diamond burr set from Amazon which contains bits that are perfect for opening up those channels.