Thick gloves, a deburring tool and divine Providence.
AFA Tooling Deburring Tool with 15 High-Speed Steel Rotary Burr Removal Blades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RHZ7T5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QAVM95AKTK5JPJ59NW4D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Something like this will help a lot
Deburring tools are very handy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RHZ7T5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_JZ0MKKYQB55HMNN96SGN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Digital calipers as well, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_M9CWE3538AD4X87Q420C
Brass wire brushes for cleaning nozzles.
Isopropyl rubbing alcohol for cleaning his print surface.
Those would be a good place to start if he doesn't already have them.
This is the deburrer I bought a few years back. It was recommended as it comes with a few different cutting edges, but you .
It works well. The heads on these swivel, so they shave instead of gouge.
It's a replacement tool for a router and countersink drill bit. Knocks off hard edges and can easily make room for a screw head.
Edit: Here, see it in action.
brim and a few moments with an exacto knife is what I used. or one of those debur tools.
a very handy tool....
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07JGVDRQC
using a raft, or vertical with supports will give a worse result I imagine and more time to clean up.
also check out the ironing setting In Cura for a better top finish. but some may like the pattern.
I've got the Noga brand That I really like with the angled blades that curve.
I use a deburring tool to remove my brims.
If they're just slightly larger you can open up the holes in your tower. A deburring tool works well for these small amounts.
https://www.amazon.com/AFA-Tooling-Deburring-Printed-Printing/dp/B0B7611J5Y
You can but if the resin level is above the top edge of the mold it makes it more likely that some resin will spill as you move them into the pressure pot. In my experience the pressure pot doesn't actually affect the level by a noticeable amount unless you have . Some resins may contract more than others while curing but that's a property of the resin and isn't affected by pressure.
In most cases I find it easier to deal with any potential shrinking after the item is cured instead of trying to prevent it. Most of the time the level is fine and doesn't actually need topping off so I just use a deburring tool (example here) or craft knife to remove the lip and smooth the edges down since those spots can be fairly sharp. In the cases where the level is too low I will do another small pour to top it off before I pull the item out of the mold.
3d printed stuff sometimes has terrible edges like that. To clean 3d prints up, people normally use a deburring tool. I bet it would work pretty well for this? There are a bunch of cheap ones on Amazon.
This is why I use deburring tools, best quality of life tool in the 3D printing world ever!
​
Hey OP, do yourself a favor and get one of these for trimming prints, burrs, brims, etc. I haven't looked back since getting one myself and recommend it to any and all. This was the single biggest quality of life improvement in 3d printing hands down. I LOVE IT, saves time, saves from possible accidents with razors, etc.
Does anyone else use a deburring tool like this? https://www.amazon.com/AFA-Tooling-Deburring-Blade-Blades/dp/B01L2XR4P2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=6FGR5K0WBHRG&keywords=deburring+tool&qid=1653683266&sprefix=debu%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyP...
It works great for removing brim remnants, minor elephants foot, etc!
I use this one but there are even cheaper models if you don't care about getting the extra bits.
The red tool is a deburring tool. Something like this: AFA Tooling Deburring Tool Kit with 11 High Speed Steel BS1010 Blades | Precision Edge Burr Removal on Copper, Iron, Brass, and PVC Plumbing Pipes, 3D Printing Plastics, Resin Art, and Metal Work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RM1D6WD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AJ5980B1C3KR8MTB79DG
With aluminum being so soft I think the one I used is the same one you’d use for 3d prints. Can’t find the exact one but it was something like this - Chinese no name. amazon com/dp/B01L2XR4P2/
Edit: seeing if this gets around the spam filter
Okay here's what I would do if i had a deck, the B sticking, and total confidence in my abilities:
Disassemble the deck, take a de-burring tool made specifically for plastics and gently de-burr the inside of the "B hole" in the face plate. (Inb4 some kind of Bill Burr butt joke)
If the issue is coming from there you'll solve it completely. You could probably get a similar result with the finest grit sand paper you can find maybe wrapped around a pencil so you can gently remove material from the cover so the B button can slide through uninhibited.
I'm personally terrified of the prospect of the tear down on the machine i haven't even been able to purchase yet but that's what i keep thinking of when i see these. Just a little extra finishing touch. deburring/chamfer tool
It comes from where the bars(? The things that that rollers a foot pedals are mounted to) connect to what I’d call the crank arms (like on a bike). Basically the spindles on the crank arms are about a millimeter or two longer than the part of the bars that move around it. If the crank arms aren’t 100% true (which mine aren’t) the bars slide side to side on the spindle making a loud klang when they hit the outer edge.
I bought some of these Teflon washers off eBay.
And put them between the end of the bars and the hex bolt and metal washer on the outside ends.
I had to ream them out just a bit with a deburring tool until the were big enough to fit on spindles.
AFA Tooling - Deburring Tool with 10 Extra High Speed Steel Blades - Works on Metal, Resin, PVC, and 3D Printed Plastic Edges - Great for Copper and PVC Pipes, 3D Printing, Resin Art, and Metal Work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2XR4P2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NJ89086RYX833XSN7W0X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's not the exact one I have, I bought mine from the Cornwell tool truck(I'm a mechanic), but that one is functionally the same.
I like this one. I bought 3. The first for me, the second for my friend with an ender 3, and the third for me when I leave the first one somewhere random and forget.
In Cura, the slicer I use, I set the Support Z Distance under the Support section, to 0.2 . This sets the distance from the Top/Bottom of the print to the support structure to the print. I also use Tree Support Structure. I have very little problems taking any supports off and it is a fairly clean removal.
I also use this deburring blade set to keep it all as clean as possible.
I almost always use a brim, which has largely solved that issue for me. Cleaning up the edges then becomes a bit of a pain but I find it to be a necessary evil compared to corners lifting. I use a de-burring tool to clean up the edges much easier than with a normal blade. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AFA-Tooling-Deburring-Blade-Blades/dp/B01L2XR4P2/, though I'm just using a cheap one from Home Depot
A deburring tool has been very handy. Especially to clean up holes
Ideally you'd use a deburring tool.
AFA Tooling - Deburring Tool with 10 Extra High Speed Steel Blades - Works on Metal, Resin, PVC, and 3D Printed Plastic Edges - Great for Copper and PVC Pipes, 3D Printing, Resin Art, and Metal Work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2XR4P2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FKHF6WTN1QRWKSRD5D6N
Theres this amazing tool called a deburring tool, it is featured in many 3d printer tool kits on amazon or you can buy one individually for like 15 dollars. I have ran into similar situations and that tool has really helped. Make sure to check it out I'll put a link to a cheap and good one on amazon if you are interested: Deburring Tool
Commonly known as a swizzle stick amongst machinists I know. It's one of a few different types of deburring tools. I've never seen one used in a slow mo glamor shot before. Made me laugh. https://www.amazon.com/VASTOOLS-Deburring-Chamfer-Removing-Aluminum/dp/B07JGVDRQC/
You should probably have a deburring tool for cleaning up brim edges anyways, but it would make very quick work of this as well.
try a de-burring tool, there's a slight knack to using it (same pressure = same depth of cut) then you can trim off brim edges in seconds and with a professional finish.