The best Disconnect Terminals: Reddit reviews

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

You don't need to buy new wires. Just buy these. Twist the wires together like you have them, slide a cap over, crimp. Throw a cap on any unused wires too. Once you've got them all capped, throw a zip tie around the base of the caps. Tie them altogether like a bouquet of flowers. Keeps them together and help reduce stress/tugging on the crimps.

What year, make, and model vehicle? Some Nissans don't have a factory ground wire. So you'll just run the black from your new head unit directly to some metal in the dash. Crimp on a small ring terminal and then find a factory bolt/screw or use a self tapping screw to ground your head unit.

looks like a molex connector. I use them regularly. They come a few sizes and can be bought easily. There is a special crimping tool needed for the pins.

https://smile.amazon.com/Molex-Connector-Matched-2-Circuits-Hanging/dp/B074G5PQHL/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=molex+connector&qid=1598133052&sr=8-5

I don't have high temp ones on-hand. Is this the right kind? Or would I be likely to find high temp ones at a hardware store instead of waiting on shipping?

FasTrack is so awesome for what you are asking that you need to take a few moments to understand just how great it is! On the underside of most sections of track there are either one pair or two pair of terminal 0.110" wide spade male connectors built in. All you need to buy is some 0.110" wide spade female connectors and you are all set to expand your wiring. You can get these connectors at Amazon.

Highly recommend crimp caps over butt connectors. Wire-to-wire connection with one easy crimp. Wrap a 4" zip tie around the base of the whole bundle. Dummy proof and will last forever. https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?crid=ZJV9UBBKS7KV&keywords=crimp+caps&qid=1655250099&sprefix=crimp+caps%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-17

If you are using Lionel O gauge FasTrack, Please do not solder wires to the rails. Almost every section of O gauge FasTrack has one or two pairs of male connectors on the bottom. Attach your wires to female connectors and slide the female connectors and wire onto the male connectors built into FasTrack.

You might want to make sure your state law would allow you to run an LED light bar on the road.

That aside, can you just use something like these - https://www.amazon.com/TICONN-Connectors-Self-Stripping-Electrical-Disconnect/dp/B07MLPBPW5/ -- and tap into the high beam power that goes into one of the headlights? I don't know which is which, but if you have a multimeter and someone to pull the high beams on it should be easy to find.

I actually had the same thing. I retained my factory head unit but added some subs and replaced all of the stock speakers. The RCA’s are generally just providing your amp the input of an audio signal for the amplifier to strengthen and push through the subs. I have my signal tied into the wires of one of my rear deck speakers to get the signal and then all I had to worry about was making sure I get power and turn-on from the battery and head unit. If you want a good easy fix I would go the t connector route like These. Just put one on the positive and negative of your door or deck speaker and make sure you connect them correctly to your amp and you should get your signal. This is obviously for smaller projects like a daily driver or just improving your system which sounds exactly like what you’re looking for. This method will keep the door speaker powered and it will allow you to keep your factory amp without having to worry about the number of rcas on the head unit.

Yeah, the cherry switches have .187" lugs so those would work assuming the jst connector fit whatever arcade1up uses.

For reference though you can get 200 connectors for $9 from Amazon : Cofufu 200 Pcs 22-16 Gauge Red Nylon Female and Male Fully-Insulated Quick Disconnects Wiring Spade Wire Crimp Terminal (Female 100Pcs, Male 100Pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JP3Z3DQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HFQoEbGF4JR0A

And a crimp tool is $13 Wire Stripper,ZOTO Self-adjusting Cable Cutter Crimper,Automatic Wire Stripping Tool/Cutting Pliers Tool for Industry https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072J62TBN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mHQoEbF8WQ3FZ

So basically paying 5x as much to have the cables made for you.

Big box stores should have them in variety packs, but not sold separately. Amazon has them all day. https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Insulated-Connector-Electrical-Terminal/dp/B01MRRMVZL/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=.110+connector&qid=1580649060&sr=8-7

If you mean cutting back the cord and splicing it near the brush holder, that will be fine, in fact the Porter Cable 690 uses these from the factory. Is this an old Black and Decker? The strain relief might be molded to the cord, in which case you can't cut it back and should buy a new cordset. Make sure you pull the brushes out before you put the armature back in.

Man, I've been to fry's electronics, home depot, lowe's, harbor freight, two ace hardware's and a hobby store. Noone had them.

All I could find were the wider ones like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Insulated-Connector-Electrical-Terminal/dp/B01MXTK0GY/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Z0BVK9MESX6TKHCZ316C

Those are standard spade connectors.

$5 for 100 on Amazon, but I've been able to find them basically everywhere (Home Depot, Lowes, Best Buy, Walmart, any audio shop).

You can get a 14-16AWG into it, way more than enough for 200wrms.

You actually found what they are "Closed-End Connectors" But those are too big.

Go to your nearest Autozone, O'Reillys, NAPA, Advanced, Etc..

They will have the the size crimp caps, more expensive though.

For if you have a day or two to wait

Yes that's the one. Just match the colors with the harness that comes with the deck that you buy. Join the wires with crimp caps or butt connectors, or solder and heat shrink if you feel comfortable.

http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector--100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/

You need a special crimping tool. You could possibly get away with something you already have.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/

Or, I guess, some screw on wire nuts and then zip tie or tape it together.

Remove the screws from the factory deck and put your new deck into the bracket with the pocket, the new deck should have the holes there.

you would need to remake the connection with something like a crimp cap or a but connector they require the use of a crimper, but just about every wire stripper has one built in.