I’m not exactly sure what you’re trying to accomplish. But you could swap your glory hole for something that looks like a butt hole. I used this item when finishing out my networking cabinet.
They're called banana jacks for speakers. The plugs look like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/
You unscrew the back of the plug and pass the bare wire through it, then clamp it down. So somewhere else in the house you should have some other terminals where the amplifier would go (probably hidden away in an AV closet).
If you don't see speakers or a place to mount speakers in the room, you may end up having to get up into the attic. My house is wired but we never installed speakers into a few of the rooms.
OP could be using something like this
Super handy, but only gives you a single plug at the cable "entry point" behind the TV.
It seems like every day someone posts this photo with a "I just moved in..."
This is the wall plate for some pre-wired and routed speaker cables running through your walls. You'll need a receiver and some speakers and then you can take advantage of the wiring. Banana plugs attached to speaker wires are what will plug into this plate: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC
Oh and because they aren't labeled you'll have to do a little trial and error to figure out what plug terminates at what point.
Then just use a wall plate coupler like this:
What about this one?
Echogear in Wall Cable Management Kit - Includes Power & Low Voltage Cable Management - Hide TV Wires When Mounting A TV - Includes Hole Saw Drill Attachment for Easy Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_EW19RZGG21QG02AMCF93?psc=1
I really like this echogear kit, I’ve used it several times for myself and family.
Echogear in Wall Cable Management Kit - Includes Power & Low Voltage Cable Management - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9C1176/
I use these to penetrate walls and to get cables up to wall mounted flat screen TV's.
https://smile.amazon.com/DataComm-Electronics-45-0001-WH-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0
https://smile.amazon.com/Maxmoral-Voltage-Mounting-Multipurpose-Telephone/dp/B07S1LW15X
if you want to uses them for data (internet) you need to take the wires off and connect them to a rj45 connector.
I'll respond to your list of questions in the numeric order you wrote them:
There's no practical difference between a 2mm TENS socket and a 4mm banana socket besides perhaps the physical strength and durability of the cable/connector. The size you choose is mainly up to personal preference and convenience
As far as I have seen 4mm seems to be the standard "banana" plug size for EStim
Yes, though when purchasing various plugs/conductors consider what parts of them are conductive - it's best to stick with insulated plugs or to get some heatshrink to cover any exposed metal. If I were purchasing plugs like this, I'd be sure to insulate each connection as best as possible
This product, for example, seems to be a female connector on both sides of the wall plate that allows you to use banana, spade crimps, or bare wire. This seems to fit your requirements, though definitely consider my note about insulating in my response #3
Really anything larger (or lower AWG) than 26AWG should be plenty. You're more likely to break a thinner wire physically than to damage it from having too much current. EStim electrode outputs are pretty low current, generally speaking. 22AWG sounds fine to me!
As stated in response #5, EStim current is generally low. The split won't result in a loss of charge, rather the current will split between the two outputs. Note that increasing the surface area of electrode contact, which will happen when you split one electrode output between 2 electrodes, is that they will both carry less current each such that you'll generally feel less sensation on the split electrodes and more sensation on the other electrode.
Those are OK, but they make some that stick up inside the wall that look a whole lot more refined. You put in an old work LV bracket and screw it on like a cover plate. Example here.
People do weird things in houses; sometimes it’s hard to say. Hope it works out.
If you want to replace it with one with a recessed design, and that will allow larger stuff to run through it, this would be an option
Honestly I just ran an extension cord along with all the other wires, plugs into the same power strip behind the entertainment center as everything else. I cut a hole in the drywall and placed a cord through panel.
There's a storage closet on the other side of that wall that doesn't have drywall, so I had easy access to everything.
Not sure if that helps you haha but that's what I did.
Good luck with your setup!
Cord through wall panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HzKdFb8HSZG3M
If by complete, you mean pre-terminated, the only issue I can think of is that it may be harder to run the cable. If you have to go up an insulated wall, getting the connector through that will be difficult. Assuming you can do the physical pull without damaging it, though, it will work just fine.
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As for making it look nice, you could look at something like this https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/.
It’s not terrible. But doesn’t the wire hider thing piss you off? It pisses me off! If you’re doing a hovering TV Mount, pay a few dollars for this:
So as the proud owner of a new Frame TV who just mounted his last week. It looks great - like a piece of art hung on my home office wall that occasionally can be used as a TV or a video conferencing screen. But now after reading through Reddit, I'm worried about potential fire risks .... any easy solution to protecting the One Connect Cord ?
Right now I have the One Connect cable dropped down the middle of the drywall (which was totally clean - no insulation or anything) and stabilized in place using an echogear cord hider. Should I fish the cord back out and get some conduit in place ? What kind of conduit do I need ? Any way to connect the conduit to the Echogear cord hider, or is there a stabilization system that will work in the round holes already drilled for that cable hider ?
I mean, the extra $300 for the samsung cable (which I've never seen available) seems absurd. How much would it have cost Samsung to just include that, since clearly the product was only designed to be hung on the wall, and the inclusion of the One Connect Box makes a drop cable pretty much the only way to install the TV for the purposes it is marketed.
you could also do the following and use keystone rj45 jacks
and use a punchdown tool
use it on both ends.
then just use a ethernet patch cord to your modem/router and back to your device.
A console for the TV would work better. If you don't like that, at least you could get the cords out of the way, I like this method. It's easy and completely repairable if you have to move.
I bought a 2" one and have about 20 cat6 runs through it right now and about to add 3 more. I would bet I'll be close to maxing it out.
Amazon Link to the one I bought
I can add a photo of it completed when I get home tonight if you care to see it.
This is the kit I used. Super simple to use. It even includes the drill bit for the hole.
hey Ive been doing a ton of searching on this sub and your name pops up a bunch
if I want a setup that connects to my PC wired and through my laptop with bluetooth can I just get this Fosi BT20A, Neumi BS5, these banana plugs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0097JLQVC, and this wire https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ and I'll be set?
totally new to this. I was gonna get the active versions but theyre never available apparently so might as well try passive right?
You can do a raceway with angles but the cleanest look is to go through the wall.
Something like this is good. Please don’t just cut a hole and run the power cables as that would probably not be up to code!
These are the Ethernet things that are in patch panels ..
These can be out on both hard and soft cable And will give you a female plug .. so you can put a patch cable of suited length to reach your switch
Or you could replace one of the male plug on your patchcable with a keystone also .. and put it in your patch panel..
Yes, cut the holes, but don't just leave them open.
Fill them with an in-wall kit designed for this application.
I meant, the banana plugs, on plug on each open end of the wire?
Since I just went through this, you can if they are low voltage. Sonos's cord is not. I did this
Looks like you can use any speaker cables with banana plugs like these.
As for what amp, is there any rating info on the speakers?
The access point discussion is good, and as for your plan for running ethernet yes the way you described it should work. I will say that you can buy wall plates with a 'female' port on both sides, this will allow you to just buy an ethernet cable at the right length and run it through, then plug it into the back of each jack instead of terminating the cable yourself (which would require some specific tools). There shouldn't be much interference or loss by running an 'extra jack' and doing it this way.
Link if it helps.
A bit more problematic (finding the cavity from the attic), but I dropped 22 runs in the stud cavity from the attic into a 24" - wide closet space not good for much else. Cut a round access port in the drywall and "sealed" it off with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMKD92Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The runs come into the space laterally, so easy to support the vertical drop with cable hangers.