I’m guessing a key hole bit.
Freud 25/64" (Dia.) Key Hole Bit with 1/4" Shank (70-104) by Amazon.com Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7JX/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_GVETW667Z98B7XQ2002Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for sharing and very cool. That's a very interesting way to hog out the material and you did a really good job all said and done taken I assume the dremeling had to be done by hand.
If you are interested, this is the style of bit I'm hoping to get. I'm not sold on this brand as it seems you'll get mixed results if you are doing heavy work, but for a handful of depressions in stuff that's not going to be heavy duty hardwood, I hope it's going to work out. Not sure what types of equipment you have but I do own a drill press which I would plan to use with this. If you plan on making more, maybe this could save you some time and elbow grease?
Thanks for sharing and hope you enjoy your table.
This one from Amazon
CNC Spoilboard Surfacing Router Bits, 1/2 inch Shank 2 inch Cutting Diameter, Slab Flattening Router Bit Planing Bit Wood Milling Cutter Planer Woodworking Tool by NITOMAK
This one is good too and I haven’t used it yet.
CNC Spoilboard Surfacing Router Bit, 1/2" Shank 2" Cutting Diameter, Insert Carbide Slab Flattening Router Bit Planing Bit Wood Planer Bit by NITOMAK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085QGLHB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TZoJEbXAV87GS
I’d find a spoilboard leveling bit that CNC’ers use to level the work surface of their machine. Find the widest one you can. This has served me well..
Yes, you can plan and sand, no problem. I planed the whole thing with my router & sled, using a flattening bit, ,like this one : https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Spoilboard-Surfacing-Router-Shank/dp/B0728GYZFW/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=Z2ZQI&pf_rd_p=bb56b41f-df49-41e1-be0a-6aa8b5f2799c&pf_rd_r=M0PDW2C0151CPNRZFE6A&pd_rd_r=7c3296bd-3980-4b3a-be18-3b5cd8aa9b2c&pd_rd_wg=DfX1E&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m
But be prepared for a gigantic mess....
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Then sanded with random orbital sander 120,200, 320 grit, and finished with Rubio Monocoat.
I use a Whiteside 6220 - it works quite well for this task.
https://smile.amazon.com/Whiteside-Spoilboard-Surfacing-Router-Shank/dp/B0728GYZFW/
I like the square tube idea. You can always prop them up on something if you need more depth.
Not sure about the tear out. I was getting annoying tear out with the first router bit I used. Ended up with this based on recs in some videos I watched, much better results… 1/2” shank but there is one for 1/4” as well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085QGLHB4/
I had to experiment a little, because I started off taking extremely shallow passes…but found I was getting a better surface when I took off a little more material (but still shallow). I was trying to barely skim the surface to see if I could avoid sanding but that was causing more tear out for some reason, so ended up finishing with the orbital once everything was level.
Only wanted to use 1/2" because I have it already.
Is this the set you used? I see a few different ones from Freud
It's probably cheap Chinese, but holy hell this thing is good
I did mine using this set on a router table:
Freud 1-3/4" (Dia.) Adjustable Tongue & Groove Bit Set with 1/2" Shank (99-036) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006XMTT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D3E94Z5WZXVBYDMTN565
Once I routed the groove I then made a few passes and adjustments using scrap to get the right fit and then routed the tongue on the rails.
One of the easiest and most accurate ways to do them is with a router bit set like this one:
Agreed with everyone else.
Make a router sled, something like this. Then buy a router bit like this (make sure the shank size is correct for your router) and plane that way. It really is the best way if you dont have a planer.
Yes everyone does this. Most people use MDF. I used particle board because I didn’t know better at the time. Either way it’s meant to be sacrificed and replaced from time to time.
When you screw it down make sure you counter sink the screws so you don’t accidentally hit them with your tools.
After you screw it down make sure you run a surfacing a pass to make it parallel to your machine. They have bits specifically for this for example.... Whiteside 6210 CNC Spoilboard Surfacing Router Bit, 1/4" Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071748JQN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e2FmFbV4229ST
Thanks for the advice. That’s sort of the way I was leaning but I like to hear feedback that it was a good theory. Had considered a couple more expensive ones but I like this idea better to start out.
So now the question is which set between these two:
Probably a coin flip I guess??
Update:
Thanks for the suggestion. Seems others have also made this suggestion so I went with this MLCS kit:
Yonico 16170 Small Bowl Router Bit with 1.65-Inch Radius, 1-3/4-Inch Wide and 1/2-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZM2UEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_744ITrax1eUVP
As for the speed I'm not home but it was fairly slow like 1000 rpm. I also used pine on purpose cause it being so soft. That bit is not the greatest.
I live in the midwest as well and was planning on using something like this if you have a router: https://www.amazon.com/Yonico-15127-Medium-Router-45-Degree/dp/B00KZM25QA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1490275723&sr=8-2&keywords=miter+router+bits
That's a half inch shank for CNC routers hence the spoilboard part of what it is. This is a good option too: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035GWKCW/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0035GWKCW&linkCode=as2&tag=woodworkweb-20
My dad's birthday is coming up, and he and my mom bought a lake house this year that they're still getting just right. I thought I could make a key rack (largely based on Jay Bates's design) for the doorway. The major deviation from Jay's design is that I routed keyhole slots on the back for hanging instead of having unsightly (imo) screws visible from the front.
Here's a link to Jay's key holder video if you're interested.
This is the router bit that I used to make the keyhole slots on the back (sorry, forgot to get images uploaded of those). Worked very well with a plunge router, and I think it looks way nicer that way.
Are you looking for something like this?:
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-20-301-Radius-V-Groove-Beadboard/dp/B000R4EAEG
A "V-groove beadboard bit" is what you may be looking for.
If that's the look you are going for, glue up the tabletop as a flat panel, and then run this bit down the table lengthwise (on the joint lines would be a good way to accent the different boards)
I would recommend something completely different from most people here. Since you just bought your first router, chances are, you'll need some time and variety of bits to pay with to get a good sense of what you can accomplish with them. So, my recommendation is to buy a set of reasonably priced bits such as this: http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-6077-Woodworking-Carbide-tipped-15-Piece/dp/B001S2RAWA/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1439734294&sr=1-5&keywords=router+bit+set
The kit will have most of what you're likely to need for now. Then, as any particular bit wears out, replace it with a quality bit. That way, you'll have a bunch of bits you may need in a pinch without having to run to the store, and build a new series of workhorses via replacement.