You could go with something like this, but that seems a bit too overpriced.
For the installs I do, I typically don’t install any equipment requiring power inside these structured media panels. In my opinion, they should only be used to patch the cables to the structured cabling.
But… if you’d prefer to mount it inside, then using a zip tie to wrap around those metal holes to hold the equipment will work just fine.
As far as cooling goes, it really depends on the panel size, how much equipment is in there, and how much heat they generate. It’s usually not an issue though, again, these panels are typically only used to create a “patch point”.
Not true at all. Find the wall in the attic, drill into it, dangle your Ethernet in the wall, cut a hole for one of these reach in there and grab it out.
Hardest part is routing it in the hot attic under the insulation
I wouldn’t call it a “keystone” jack, since that seems to connote a standard size. This seems some other RJ45 modular jack variant, like the Pass & Seymour modular jacks installed at my sister’s place.
Regardless of what it is (vs it’s function), yes, it may be responsible for the Internet issues if the jack was poorly terminated or the terminations have loosened over time … which seems entirely possible.
I’d recommend replacing it with an actual keystone RJ45 jack and modular faceplate, possibly in combination with installing a low voltage bracket.
Mounting tape might cause heat buildup since it appears that your modem has ventilation holes on both sides. Would something like this shelf work better?
I have the same AX55 router. It runs hot so I used a raised mounting plate with keystone posts to ensure effective heat dissipation.
I just put it all in a Legrand Wi-Fi-friendly (I.e. plastic) enclosure. If your cabinet is metal, I wouldn’t mount it inside the enclosure. Here’s my setup:
https://i.imgur.com/TKIGhDf.jpg
I wouldn’t buy an AP unless your testing suggests that the enclosure’s location is so poor that you need to augment your coverage to compensate.
Get a LV bracket cutout template if you're hanging TVs and fishing cables up the wall from behind an entertainment center. Makes that shit way way more convenient to do.
Low Voltage Mounting Bracket Template https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4K4C26/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_8CC09SR3FGWMXNM8R2D5
There are many styles like this. The "flap" in the back spins and tightens the box in place via two screws.
Cmple - Low Voltage Mounting Bracket 1 Gang Multipurpose Drywall Mounting Wall Plate Bracket – Single Gang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_K5X2E3QDDV8NJRBDDPE2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For 13 bucks there’s a plastic template you can get if you don’t have a saw already. These are the next best thing.
Low Voltage Mounting Bracket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4K4C26?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I assume that's what you were talking about. I was going to run an ethernet cable from the router to the office, the outlet. Then the shorter cable to complete the internet connection.
Repair the drywall first, I like this channel How to repair overcut electrical box
Then install an old work low voltage bracket Low voltage bracket
In the future don’t use drywall anchors to try to directly attach a wall plate. There’s not enough drywall between the cut out and where the anchor would go to be a strong connection.
You might be able to just get way with a mud ring if the hole was cut smaller.
BWP Single 1-Gang Drywall Bracket Face Wall Plate Mount Mud Ring Low Voltage Mounting Bracket (1 Gang, 12 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BK9R9X5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_GZNE1XX8B2MZMM62AX6Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Home Depot / lowes will likely have single packs.
Assuming you have drywall walls, why not just install an old work 1 gang electrical box or low voltage box like these?
Cmple - Low Voltage Mounting Bracket 1 Gang Multipurpose Drywall Mounting Wall Plate Bracket – Single Gang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NP6DYPSNW99RYS8H9NXX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Anytime you run an ethernet cable through the wall, you will want to have a low voltage bracket like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket-Multipurpose/dp/B003ZWJGGE/
Find your stud and drill a 1” or so hole to one side of it (big enough to put your cord through). Directly below that put a pass through box in (so you’ll cut out a rectangular hole for a normal junction box. I’ve put examples below of the first things that came up on my phone. You should be able to drop the cable through the small hole and reach into the bigger hole (before installing the pass through) to pull the cable out. Then you plug it in normally and you have an easy pass through if you ever want to replace them or move.
Please continue to bug me if this is unclear.
Pass through plate
Pass through box
Cmple - Low Voltage Mounting Bracket 1 Gang Multipurpose Drywall Mounting Wall Plate Bracket – Single Gang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FQD35QBZYB4FE09Z7VCM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Oh, you won't like this. I went with the Leviton shelves. I hear you - they are more expensive than they should be. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V5WXFNK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're literally just running through one wall from one side to the other just run the cable directly through the wall. If you want to hide the hole then get a pair of the media plates used for TV's like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQP5Y9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_EHYuDbVC2FJRM Or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N2YHTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_5IYuDbTMGMTQM
Then run how ever many cables you want. Otherwise you'd literally have a 3" patch between one side of the wall and the other.
Honestly I'd run one cat6 cable to the switch you linked to and connect everything to that. It's unlikely you'll be using more than one or two devices at the same time, and it's also unlikely your internet is fast enough to keep up with the gigabit link anyway.
Everything you need: KCC Industries 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate with Mounting Bracket +UL/CSA Listed Safe+ (2-Pack, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQP5Y9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_6XGXCbV8Z9S7P
Also sold at home Depot, would save a few bucks that way.
Absolutely. Drill a hole alongside the phone cable (carefully) and tie a nail to a string to drop it down thru the partition. Once you have the string in hand, tie it to the cable and pull (either down from the attic or up from the room). Cut a hole in the wall below and use a "low voltage" bracket (like this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZWJGGE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to hold the faceplate for the coax connection.
I used one of these sandwiched between the stepper motor and the extruder. I did have to machine one of the bolt slots to match my x carriage bolt spacing though. Works fine on 2 of my machines.
>Should I run conduit? If so, what kind?
If possible, yes. Your preference on kind, but something that fits and is nice to work with.
>Do I need wall-boxes (like outlet boxes) at the drops? Or can I just cut a 1.5" diameter hole, pull the cable out and into the keystone, and screw the cover-wallplate into the drywall?
You will need to use Low voltage brackets in most places. something like these work great.
>I want to put my router in the living room with the entertainment center, but it needs to go modem>router>switch, no? What's the best way to accomplish this with the modem & switch in a different closet?
Get an access point, and leave the router in the closet. Hell, use the older router as your router, and use the new one as an access point.
Is this what I want to put into the hole in the wall to attach the wall plate to?
Is this what I want to put into the hole in the wall to attach the wall plate to?
If you like cleaner looks you can use these low voltage single gang boxes. I used them to run cat 6 between my entertainment center and my home office.
http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU
coming from an IT install field I facepalm at some of the suggestions. yeah wireless is simpler, but if your dad is cool with it and the walls are just like a simple drywal, go to your local hardware store and buy a drywall saw, and get 2 LV1 pieces,and some simple wall plates that will screw onto the LV1's that will allow an ethernet cable through. no cable through the hallway problem solved. the only thing you need to be concerned about is not hitting the electrical wires in the wall, but that is easily taken care of by not cutting in the same stud gap that the power is in.
Please note, since you mention your father, it would be best to get his permission before cutting holes in the wall.
You will want to mark out the wall carefully using the lv1 so you don't make the hole too big. run the necessary length of a cat5 cable through, then put the cable through the wall plate and connect the wall plate to the lv1 that is affixed to the wall. Now you have your cat5 and no ugly hole in the wall. make sure to do this on both sides of the wall of course.
One last thing, if your house is ancient (like built in the early 1900's or the late 1800's) this solution may be far harder due to the construction style of the day and age.
for those that don't know what an LV1 is, http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU They are basically wall openings to allow low voltage signal wires through the walls. This is used to keep cabling to networks, video, and more hidden from view and gives a nicer cleaner look to many comercial installs. for home use, it makes getting cables from one room to another far easier.
You would want some sort of busbar, one for hot, one for neutral. Wago style push makes it easier for assembly, and leaves a less exposed conductor, but is a little more costly.
Busbar:
Why are you using high voltage full covered boxes? use a proper round low voltage bracket and this will not be an issue.
You can buy one and mix them up however you want. If you are going to be making new holes in the wall for these jacks, keep in mind that you will also need something like below before you can use these plates: