I was going to make one so I could remotely reboot my router if my network went down.
Then I realized that I am not a clever man.
EDIT: While I appreciate your suggestions, I already solved my problem.
If it’s anything like the whole house fan my parents had, you’d just need to replace that controller with a smart switch. You’d lose the ability to adjust the speed though.
Can't speak to best. But as a broke home automation enthusiast, I can attest that getting SWITCHES instead of lights is way cheaper, especially in the long run.
Bulb burned out? No problem. Stick dollar store bulbs in em. I got 6 lights on my main floor which work on 2 switches.
Currently using WeMo switches. Sometimes they go on sale for under $30.
Replace the existing switch with a Lutron Caseta switch or dimmer. Install a blank old-work box at the top of the stairs with a Pico Remote mounted in it. Done.
The GE Z-Wave Plus switches, dimmers and fan switches are fantastic. I have over 40 of them in my house and they are the most reliable smart devices that I own.
Here they are on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R
Also, you'll need a SmartThings hub to control it all: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL
$14.99 on amazon You can look at youtube tutorials for installing smart switches. It's not hard. Same for smart outlets or outlets with extra USB ports.
I set up my under cabinet lighting this way with:
The wall switch controls all of the under cabinet lighting, and the motion sensor is wired up in a lighting automation routine. You can use pretty much any z-wave or zigbee wall switch (or dimmer if your lighting load supports it) in this scenario. Any ST-compatible motion sensor will work as well.
Withe the walls open, why not just hardwire the lighting now, and leave all the outlets unswitched? If you're using LED strip lighting, you can install a proper IC rated driver and install behind the drywall to keep it out of sight.
+1 for smart switch. I have a Kasa smart switch for the outdoor security lights on my garage and have them set on a schedule to turn on at sunset and turn off at sunrise, it works flawlessly. I installed it, set the schedule and haven't touched it since.
The Wemo Switch can be wired to directly control the relay/contactor which should be more than enough.
You would just need to grab an enclosure and whatever plugs/outlets and a few bits of spare wire.
There are cheaper WiFi switches but I personally like the Wemo switches, you can set rules (like Auto-Off) or schedules and it works with IFTT for more advance stuff.
WeMo Light Switch, Wi-Fi enabled, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DGEGJ02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8JkBybZJS8X0H
Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1IkBybGQNQV6G
Not op but maybe something like this?
TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Control Your Fixtures From Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WWSHyb1RHJ7SE
I bought these from amazon
Comes with remote, and I have the "boxes" attached to them, and the headset too. Just hit the buttons, and on, or off, they go. Have been using them since April with absolutely no problems whatsoever.
Searched for "zwave led dimmer" and this was the first one on the list, recommended by Amazon and works with Alexa.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RDh2ybABD1MGM
The Devices that can be discovered by Alexa and controlled directly with Alexa are ones that usually connect to your wireless network so they can communicate with the Echo Dot directly over the network. (Such as the Wemo products). Others require a "Hub" in the sense that they don't communicate via wireless ethernet and communicate via other means such as ZigBee (in the case of Phillips Hue). So, the hue bulbs communicate with the Phillips Hue Hub which is connected to your home network. The Echo Dot communicates with the Hue Hub when you tell Alexa to turn the lights on or off.
It is super misleading how Amazon does this. For example they put "Works with Amazon Alexa" in the title for the popular GE Z-Wave switch (Maybe GE puts this in the product title, I'm not sure).
Well this is very misleading because this is a Z-Wave product. The Echo Dot does not have a Z-Wave radio built into it. If you look at the Alexa graphic on the page where it says "Amazon Certified": " Control this product with your voice through select Alexa devices."
More misleading information, because I wouldn't consider a wink hub or smartthings hub (both Z-Wave compatible devices) to be "Alexa Devices" however, these do support control via Alexa using their smart home skills. So there you go, that's how you would control the GE Switch using Alexa.
Agreed. Lutron Caseta are the absolute best way to integrate lights in HomeKit. Simple install. Reliable. Responsive.
By the way, what you are describing is called a 3-way light switch (I know its weird, because you have two switches — it has to do with the way the wiring works). I have dozens of Lutron Caseta dimmers in both three-way and four-way installations. This kit on amazon gives you both the main switch and a Pico remote for the second switch.
What is great about this is that inanition to giving you HomeKit control, the physical dimmers you install work to control the lights just like your current physical switches, which is handy both for you and your guests.
Yes it is. Get it on Amazon or Walmart or other places and you'll see recent reviews of it. People still use it.
If you use Lutron Caseta switches, you can optionally replace the other switch with a Pico remote. They can be wall mounted (without creating installing boxes) or mounted in a box to look like normal installs. I have probably 50 Caseta switches throughout my home. They are pricier but they don’t operate entirely off of WiFi; this means poor signals will not cause random issues. You do need a hub tho. The other reason I went with Lutron is because if there is an issue years down the road, I’ll be able to replace the switch and maintain same style. If you go with some cheap Chinese Amazon brand, you have no guarantee. This may or may not be a problem for you.
Dimmer model: Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch and Pico Remote Kit, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-PKG1WB-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CZ7XPVDKW1P9FHZBCF07
Ah, gotcha. Yeah, I missed that bit, sorry. Yes, Bond provides a WiFi bridge to the RF.
I've replaced some wall switches with Kasa switches, which can also be hooked into Google and Homebridge/HomeKit:
I went on Amazon and bought a very cheap “smart outlet” that I can turn on and off with a button. I plugged the power chord for my reverb G2 into that and I just click it off until I’m ready to use it and click it on when I’m ready for VR. It keeps me from having to unplug/replug anything and has been an easy workaround for that annoying issue.
These are what I use
Limited-time deal: Kasa Smart HS200 Light Switch by TP-Link, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4Ghz Wi-Fi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Assistant, UL Certified, 1-Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_09CHTV6RBT8EK0N983F1
Does it have to be a dimmer? Because that is why you are limited to only 150W with the one you've linked, because it is a dimmer.
There are plenty of options, like Lutron Caseta, for just a smart switch, no dimming, where you aren't so limited on wattage. That one I linked is good for 6A, which is 720W at 120W. It just can't dim.
If you HAVE to have the dimmer, and HAVE to have those 41W lights, just Google "250w smart led dimmer" and you'll get plenty of results. But honestly, running 246W on a dimmer good for 250W is not a good idea in my opinion. The dimmer is going to be hot to the touch every time the lights are on because you're maxing it out, and I can almost assure you that it will eventually die on you from overheating.
I've had this for a few years: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AP92N2/
You program the date, time and latitude and longitude and it does everything. You can have it turn on before sundown and off at a certain time (for instance, midnight). It's also smart enough to keep track of daylight savings time. You can even have different schedules for different days of the week.
It has a built in supercapacitor that will only keep the current time for a few hours in the event of an outage, so you don't want to use it somewhere where it will lose power for long periods of time. It's only the clock though, it saves the rest of the programming.
I too am looking to do this (happy I found this).
I was having my gas fireplace serviced this morning and asked about it.
My wall switch for my fireplace has 2 switches. 1 switch is a low power switch to turn on the fireplace, while the 2nd is if I wanted to install a blower.
The guy said since it's a low power switch that want to control I would need to tap into the extra outlet (where there is already a constant flow of 110 amps) and use a Rib Enclosed Power Relay (about $20) to bring the constant power over to the outlet that i would like to control to light my fireplace.
This is the the RIB Enclosed Power Supply he recomended >
and I was looking at this outlet on Amazon (as I don't already have a Home Automation Hub in my Home and can't think of a reason to install one just for this).
TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Control Your Fixtures From Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS200)
Let us know how it works out.
What you want to accomplish is certainly possible, however, you have a 3-way switch, so you will have to replace both switches. GE makes a 3-way compatible z-wave dimmer switch that I've used in my house that I've been pretty happy with. You will need to install the z-wave dimmer on your load switch (where the hot line comes in) and an "add-on" switch on the other 3-way switch. The photo you posted appears to be of your non-load switch since there isn't a black line connected to the switch, but to be sure you should test the load portion of the switch with a multimeter.
Here's links to the GE switches I use:
GE Z-Wave Dimmer
Edit: Upon looking at the photo you posted again, I do see a black line, but I can't see how it's connected to the switch. It's possible this is your primary load switch, but again I'm would test with a multimeter to be sure.
Thanks for your feedback, it was incredibly helpful. So These are the switches I will get since the lights I got for my rooms are LED Dimmable. I'll get the smart things hub as well to interact between the switch and my echo, but what do I use to program all the details. For example how do I get alexa to recognize "bedroom 1" name when I talk to her and have her interact with it. Is there a software program I use to manage all these devices and name them, etc?
Also, my light switches do not have a ground since the house is older, so I'll have to have an electrician come out and figure out a way to install these switches
I've never used the light switches you mention, but if they are these ones, then they seem like they will work as you think. The second photo will provide some insight into how each switch goes into the electrical box behind the faceplate. The page says
> Wemo Light Switch seamlessly replaces your old wall light switch and works with any one-way connection light.
It sounds like you haven't changed a light switch before. As such I'll just remind you to please open the circuit breaker the switch is running through before disconnecting the switch from the circuit. No offense intended here, just trying to help you not electrocute yourself.
You could accomplish this with home automation. Replace the fan switch with this zwave switch and then add a Wink or Smartthings hub. Your phone would be the remote. You can also get an Amazon Echo for cheap and then control the fan with your voice.
Hue ecosystem uses the Zigbee protocol. The Hue app can only control lights out of the box. There is only 1 fan controller for HA that I'm aware of and that's the GE zwave fan controller which requires a z-wave hub similar to SmartThings which also integrates with Hue and it works pretty well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
So, with a 3 gang box, you can put in anything. Wemo make a light switch and also a dimmer switch. Leviton has a few switches as well.
Keep in mind that you'll need a neutral line available for all of these switches. If you have the kind of switch where there's only a single wire and the switch sits in the middle to cut off power flow, you'll have a problem swapping in a smart switch.
What was I thinking. Sorry, I was hypoglycemic when I replied.
Here is a Z wave switch that should work well and connect directly with Abode:
GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A.91zbQY1X4RQ
I dont know how expensive they are in india. But looks like $30-$50 price range in amazon us.
I'm still a noob in the research phase of setting up my system and haven't bought any of these or installed anything so I'm just going off of what I have read thus far. This is the switch though.
GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_juIwAbZ7GCV0T
If you want a wifi switch that works with both Alexa and smartthings, I'd recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Wi-Fi-enabled-Amazon/dp/B00DGEGJ02. Alexa can access it without a hub, and it works well with my smartthings system. All of the Wemo wi-fi devices work well with or without a hub.
Also I've installed a lot of these around my house: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2
They work great with Smartthings (not sure about Wink). With Alexa tied into my smart home system, she is also able to control the lights when I give the proper voice commands.
So they will work great once you have a hub. Without a hub they will work as well as a dumb switch, with the added bonus of allowing your neighbors to add your lights to their smart home systems.
I have never heard of LC before this thread so I trotted over to Amazon to see what I could see. The 2nd non-sponsored result was Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Switch for All Bulb Types and <strong><em>Fans</em></strong>, PD-6ANS-WH, White, Works with Amazon Alexa. Is there really no fan control or am I misunderstanding?
This one (Belkin WEMO) is WiFi and works with Alexa.
This one (GE Z-Wave) is Z-Wave and works with Alexa.
> tplink wifi switched
I like this, so far this seems great, and it does state "single pole" for switch type in the Amazon descriptions so should work I think since I only have two wires
For some holidays, eBay runs 15-20%. This one was for fathers day. Even without the coupons, you can usually find deals on switches. For example,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Switch-PD-6ANS-WH-R-control-lights-or-fans/123009856808 for 40.55 no tax
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-BL-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38 for 54.95 + tax
Looking back at my history:
PD-6WCL-WH for 40-43, no tax vs 54.95 + tax at Amazon
P-BDG-PKG2W-A that includes the hub plus two dimmers and pico remotes for 112, vs 159 + tax at Amazon
I’ve had good luck with just daylight led bulbs. Just amazon the daylight led t8 bulbs. You can also hook up a timer switch to mock daylight hours. Honeywell Home RPLS740B1008 Econoswitch 7-Day Programmable Light Switch Timer White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2
I keep them 6-24 inches from the plants with a small fan to help them dry out between watering
A bridge is not required. You can pair Picos to switches without the bridge or app - it's right in the quick start guide: https://www.casetawireless.com/documents/quickstartcasetainwalldimmerus.pdf
And I'm pretty sure if you buy the kit they come pre-paired - I haven't installed a new switch kit in a while, but the lamp kits I've bought recently have.
$65 on Amazon for a switch and pico and wall mount bracket right now. I have about 10 switches and almost as many lamp modules in my house with a bunch of picos and I love the.
The decora style is pretty common for smart switches actually if that's what you are thinking about. Have these and they work great but there are other options: https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/
Yes, sorry, I meant a wireless remote switch. Not nearly as elegant of a solution, but the pros and cons must be weighed. For example, I have BX wiring with fabric-jacketed copper wires, and the stuff is old and anytime you even look at the jacketing wrong, it falls off the wire (leaving exposed wires). I'm not sure I would attempt it on my own house, and I'm a pretty avid DIYer (I added a master bathroom to my house, including running all new electrical and plumbing). So in our living room there's a light on a ceiling fan we have to activate by pull switch, and another lamp in the corner that we either manually turn on and off, or use a wireless switch like this (we usually use this during Christmas time when we control other indoor Christmas lights with it).
Certainly looks like a kasa smart switch on first glance.
This is the one that I have.
I use it for my front door light so it turns on at night and turns off in the morning.
Kasa Smart Light Switch
You do have to download and create an account in the Kasa Home app to set it up but then it will integrate in to a google home. The rest of the people in my home did not need to sign in to Kasa to be able to control it from the Google Home app.
Ummm Lutron Caseta fan control, light switch, and Picos. Faster, easier, cheaper, and with more control over the settings from various places. Run power to one box for a light and fan switch and put Picos in as many other places as you'd like.
Caseta and Pico
My K&T work started on Thursday.
My contractor is making several small holes in each room. The number depends on the wire. The main bedroom has about 15 holes. They will rough-patch the holes, and the painters will still need to sand/finish.
Yes, to the network cables. At least one to each room. It's much cheaper to do it while the work is being done.
I'm getting new under-cabinet lights added in.
There are good quality battery operated light switches so you have have a three-way switch at the top and bottom of the stars (for example) without running wire. They work well and the watch-like battery lasts for years. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6L48C/ (which has a dimmer etc, but there are many options there).
I'm getting LED panels (they look like old-style fluorescent lights) installed in in the basement, so the place is light up well.
I'm getting an overhead outlet installed in the middle of the basement with an overhead retractable extension cord. Helpful on projects I figure. Something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FI0MXSE
Light fixture changes are free. The electrician said if I have to take one down, putting up a new one is no extra work/charge. I am replacing a few ceiling fans and light fixtures.
I'm adding outside power points (patio, front porch, back deck). I'm adding a fan to the front porch so I can work there on the hottest summer days.
Also going in are outside lights. The stairs at the side of the house to the backyard are dark at night. I want those security style where they automatically come on AND I can also choose to turn them on and keep them on.
Hope that helps.
Honeywell Home RPLS740B ECONOswitch 7-Day Solar Programmable Switch, Lights and Motors, Indoor and Outdoor, Energy Saving https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_SKB6KG32F0Z8ZT01XB10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I was really surprised to see that there was no grounding method as well. The switch can still be screwed in if I wrap the bare ground around the screw behind the metal plate. It ll be sandwiched behind the metal that is part of the switch and box.... I figured this was the next best option.
Not sure if that link need to be made public to view so let me know if you can't see it.
Hey Ryan, are you saying all I need is 4 of these? Thank you.
Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch and Pico Remote Kit, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-PKG1WB-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_73D36C60VA8W0E9ZSVBW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Simple. replace the wall switch with one of these. It will power it on and off. It might be possible to control the speed with a dimmer switch, but I just keep the fan speed at Low.
Switch on Amazon
I find one of these remote switches very useful for fans: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Control-Wireless-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK
There are many variations on this on Amazon.
I have some Kasa light switches that allow me to turn lights on/off with alexa and also act like a standard switch.
Be aware that you'll likely want one like this that only has the one position. Meaning that like normal switches they show either up or down position to note on / off. The Kasa switch always looks like it's on the Up/On position. You tape the bottom of the switch and it acts like a push-button. Having a smart switch that moves in the up/down like normal switches can be confusing to know if you should press it down to turn off, when it's already off.
A Lutron Caseta dimmer is only for use on regular bulbs. You can get one that has the wall switch dimmer and a battery-powered remote to use as a 3-way dimmer. The remote comes with a wall mount to permanently mount it on the wall rather than on a table.
So at my church, I use one of these to turn on a device that is difficult to reach. I have several other ones at home. You can actually get multiple plugs and have them all connected to the same button. They're cheap and easy to set up. And these have a button on the side of them that can be used in lieu of using the remote.
There's also some other types of remotes where each item can be controlled by a separate button, but there's also an "all on" and "all off" button. But even if you're pressing multiple buttons, having them all on a single remote would still make it easier to do.
Maybe this will work for you. You can add more remotes if you need to or use your phone.
There are normal switches in Caseta.
I have looked for a solution to this exact problem and it came down to just installing a Honeywell timer switch. It’s a simpler solution for an outside garage, front door, or accent lighting. I looked at Lutron’s Caseta switches with a hub. But I already have a Phillips Hue setup with a hub and didn’t want to complicate things more. If I could find a reputable brand that offered a thread connected switch with HomeKit, I would have pulled the trigger on that. Eve offers this, but so far only sells the European version of a thread connected light switch. Thread is so fast! I have been testing a few thread enabled Nanoleaf bulbs and they are many times more responsive than the Phillips Hue with hub.
Honeywell Home RPLS740B1008 Econoswitch 7-Day Programmable Light Switch Timer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y32HD4ZZPR0FEPMYCXFB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used a non-smart switch with a built-in info based on the latitude.
Honeywell Home RPLS740B1008 Econoswitch 7-Day Programmable Light Switch Timer, White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2
This had been just working without much issue for 7 years now. Set and forget. There must be some power backup (capacitor) inside since I haven't mess with the clock for short power outages.
Here's a Lutron Caseta dual-switch that fits a single outlet box.
I recently added a motion sensor to my front porch and setup an automation that turns the porch lights on (controlled by a TP Link HS200) if there is motion between the hours of 9:30 and 6 AM.
No, it’s a ceiling fan using a Wemo wall switch.
One of these:
Wemo F7C030fc Light Switch, WiFi enabled, Works with Alexa and the Google Assistant https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00DGEGJ02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6T8ANEFQ8RYZY9P7QZD0
I bought it a long time ago, I don’t think I spent that much on it? :)
You bet. https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=59868230143&dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw2bmLBhBREiwAZ6ugo0Q5TD4RpV88-21VMDg-W5aL7PU9KkKFF_uzSThYT_OMb-P2vmvOjhoCkJkQAvD_BwE&hvadid=31003467...
I use all tp-Link switches and plugs just because they seem to work easily. I have a Google ecosystem so you may want to include a nest hub https://store.google.com/ca/product/google_nest_hub_max?hl=en-GB
If you are an Amazon ecosystem then they probably have their own devices.
Love my Kasa switches at the same price point. They would need to be much cheaper to compete with such a stable product. I have most of my house on a mix of these switches and the smart dimmers and love how they have performed for the price. Kasa Smart Light Switch HS200,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Those fans are pretty great. There are other fans that will boast bigger CFM numbers but these are great at blowing all of the air right on your body and not just making your workout room 'breezy'.
I bought some remote control outlets off amazon so I don't adjust the fan's setting but I can turn one or both of my fans on and off from the remote.
These are the ones that I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Well i guess I should know that since that version is the very 1st Caseta switch I ever installed, but that was years ago. All the Caseta switches I installed after that are just on/off, not dimmers, and they do require a neutral wire:
Lutron switch with Pico remote. The Pico remote can be mounted to the wall to look like a switch, or in a box. All wireless and doesn't require a smarthome connection. The downside is if you want a smarthome connection you'll need a Lutron bridge (or a problematic Wink hub--not advised.
Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Home, UL Certified, No Hub Required,White of ONE Pack. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BF11PV1EB6SZQDB60FZV?psc=1
I'd agree, this is going to be your easiest route, by far. Electrically, there's plenty of other solutions but they're going to be much more complex to implement than just changing out the switch. The TP Link Kasa switches can be bought for ~$10-15: https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU
Clap on! Clap off! The Clapper! https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Activated-Detection-Appliances-Technology/dp/B0000CGKLR
Thanks for the help… both the lights and are controlled by switch they’re all one unit.. Would this suffice for the upgrade? Lutron Caseta Smart Home Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant | 6-Amp, for Ceiling Fans, Exhaust Fans, LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6ANS-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EFHGGZ8CQNTXA170P7R6
Yeah as others have said it doesn't seem like you have enough wires there (You are missing a neutral and possibly a hot), BUT you can still get an outlet there and not even have to change the box to a 2 gang if the other end of the 3-way is within 30 feet that switch.
Just get yourself a Lutron Caseta 3-way kit. Then convert the other end to a single pole and install that dimmer (you can get a Caseta switch too if you don't want dimmer) and then just send a hot and neutral wire to the switch you want to convert to an outlet. You'd end up with an extra wire that you can cap off. Once you do that, you pair the remote Pico switch with the dimmer and just mount it next to the outlet using the mounting kit. It's just a battery powered remote(supposed to last 10 years) so you just mount it directly on the dry-wall and put a 2 gang plate over it and nobody can tell it wasn't always there.
Otherwise, you gotta do it the old fashion way and fish a new cable through and cut holes and what not. Both these options do require a solid understanding of home wiring and 3-way switches and such however. It shouldn't cost you much more than $200 for an electrician to do it.
Yeah no problem. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_Z2F3YGN0T15J3VYPK4K0
Just for clarity I am considering it a midrange switch, not the best option, not the worst. Also non sale price is what I am referring to.
Thanks for the link. That seems like something I'd have to install in the wall above my switch?
I was thinking something like this could work to replace my switch: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/
But I'm not sure if you're suggesting it wouldn't be up to the code and also I don't know if I can make it work locally.
Replace the switch with a smart switch. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ (not an endorsement, this was just the first one I found).
And... DONE. You can now control it with alexa, google home, ect. Create a routine/skill that turns it on for 30 minutes and call that with your smart home app of choice, rather than calling the switch directly. Or you can physically manipulate the switch from the kitchen.
Sorry didn't take your description as meaning you didn't have neutrals.
So yes your best bet is probably the cap.
Or you can add more lights to the circuit of you'd like.
Believe neutral required for this
Lutron Caseta Smart Home Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant | 6-Amp, for Ceiling Fans, Exhaust Fans, LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6ANS-WH | White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KN8BVPRBBW027P536Z6D
You want all 3 switches to control the single light, correct? What you’re looking for is a 4-way switch. Take a look at the Lutron Caseta 3-Way Switch. It’s standard smart switch that comes with a remote that essentially replaces the other switch. You can then buy an additional remote to replace the third switch. The directions will walk you through the install but it’s pretty simple.
I replaced the light switch in our kid's room with one of these:
The normal switch stays in the same spot, and I installed the remote to look like a light switch, and it can go anywhere in the room.
Deal link: Amazon
Category-wise subreddits for Amazon Deals:
Is your reddit feed getting flooded with deals for products you are not interested in? Below are our category-wise subreddits where I crosspost from the main sub.
Discord Server: Instant deal notifications on our Discord Server!
Amazon Canada Deals: /r/OnlineDealsCanada
Disclaimer: The deal links are affiliated. We may earn a small share on qualifying purchases. It does not affect the deal price in any way.
> I will say I am rethinking sticking with toggles. I have had many visitors flip a switch with a whole arm swipe, which seems bad for longevity.
That's the kind of thing I'm interested in hearing. Thanks for sharing.
That said, I'm not sure that's any different for any smart devices when it comes to visitors. I had this GE/Jasco dimmer in my previous house and guests constantly misused it by holding down to turn it off (instead of tapping) which would just dim to the lowest brightness.
And then they would also turn it on and and just accepting that the lights were supposed to be at their lowest brightness. I suppose that type of user error is less concerning than improper use that could damage, though!
This was a zwave+ model.
I think this is the 2nd gen. I see there's another gen beyond this, and honestly I think I saw Jasco is just switching away from licensing the GE Logo.
Related, I did notice Lowes dropped their partnership with GE.
Caseta still has a regular on-off that isn’t for dimming lights. I have one in my laundry room. Lutron Caseta Smart Home Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant | 6-Amp, for Ceiling Fans, Exhaust Fans, LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6ANS-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_sLZ6FbKWJYJ6B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Definitely a noobie DIYer here, hence why I'm here to ask questions and learn (:
Okay, so sounds like I don't have a neutral and will need either a Caseta or some other solution (like smart bulb) then. I was hoping to get the TP-Link Kasa Smart Switches since they're a fair bit cheaper ($17) than Caseta ($70) in Canada. Open to suggestions though!
I was looking to buy a couple of the TP-Link Kasa Smart Switches since they're the most affordable here in Canada ($17 compared to the Caseta for $70).
Open to suggestions though, but like /u/dcduelist said, I'd like to be able to turn on/off with phone or switch!
NOTE: Are you looking for discounts on a specific product? Search for the product in our official Discord Server! We are gearing up for Black Friday and Cyber Monday! Grab the deals before anyone else! Join our Discord Server to get real-time notifications on all deals. We have category-wise Discord channels. Disclaimer: Some deal links on this sub may be affiliated
Instead of fixing the switched outlets, you may just want to purchase a set of these. For only $20, you can postpone the major detective work for another time.
It sounds like you need a "smart switch". You can set them up to automatically turn on/off on a schedule, but still control it manually.
For example: https://smile.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU
Doesn't even need to be in a low voltage box, the remotes designed to be surface mounted and then you can buy a plate with one more spot to make it appear it's part of the same box. I did this to add a switch to my entry way where the light switch was too far from the door. Works perfectly, bit it does have a 1-2 second delay. Can't recommend Lutrons smart switches and pico remotes enough. Here's a link. Add in a dimmable LED bulb and you really take advantage of the functionality.
Do you need to switch the power at the light head or can you do that from the house?
The problem with the consumer level products (most) is that you're required to use a specific brands app for those devices and in most cases other integrations (Hue / Alexa / Google and whatnot) all require an active Internet connection so they can contact the mothership of the equipment you're using to switch it on and off.
You have a few options, you can use traditional z-wave devices and then pair them to a remote like the Aeon Labs minimote and operate them that way (no hub required). I also discovered that GE has a bluetooth switch that you can program and operate remotely with your phone but looks like you don't want to use a phone.
Edit: as /u/gurase mentioned Lutron has a system that will work too.
and if you get a hub later, you can still use these devices so that is a plus.
The WiFi switches also act as normal switches. You can turn them manually on and off but still retain the Alexa ability to use voice. BUT these will not work with WiFi bulbs, when the switch is off it does remove power to the bulbs. You need to use dumb light bulbs with the WiFi switches. I have most of my switches converted to these...
Kasa Smart Light Switch by TP-Link, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4Ghz WiFi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Assistant, UL Certified, 1-Pack (HS200), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_zueHFbQ5311K4
This is designed for what she wants to do
You can enter in the latitude and longitude of her house, the switch calculates the sunrise and sunset times for each day of the year. Or it can just come on and go of at pre designated times.
I wouldn't use the fan speed control switch. Dimmable lights and adjustable speed fan motors require power to be provided in different ways that are incompatible, and if you try to hook them to the same adjustable switch, one won't work properly and may get damaged. The only Caseta switch that will work to control both a fan and a light on the same circuit is this on / off switch: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=lutron+caseta&qid=1601411520&sr=8-7 You would still be able to adjust the fan speed from the fan itself, but the light would either be on or off, not dimmable.
Are you sure you don't have two separate circuits connected to a single switch? If so, then you could convert the box to dual gang and use one light dimmer switch and one fan control switch just like you do everywhere else.
I’m personally a huge fan of Lutron Caseta. They were my primary choice for smart home lighting, but I would still use them without the smart home integration. What I really like is the included pico remote (which you can mount to a wall plate and it looks like any other switch). You can even mount the remote where there is no existing switch, like if you have a toddler who can’t reach a switch you can mount one lower directly to drywall and throw a light switch cover on it.
In my basement I have three zones, then a pico remote at the top of the stairs that’s linked to all three dimmers, so it controls them simultaneously. Then I’ve got one on my coffee table to also control the entire basement from one remote. They also have a center “favorite” button which sets it to the preferred dimming level.
3-way set-ups are also really easy, where you install the dimmer on one side then the pico remote on the other side.
With all that they’re not cheap, about $50 per switch I think, but works well for me.
EDIT Here’s a link to the product I’m referring to, I guess closer to $65 each. I built mine up through out the house over time, but nearly every room has one now.
You won't find much if anything that doesn't use wifi or a hub. If you can tolerate a remote, then get https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=emc_b_5_i
Allows you to mount a pico remote wherever you need it add a normal plate on top and you would never know it's surface mounted. It also does not need a hub as it works directly with one another.
^^Note: ^^Get ^^instantly ^^notified ^^on ^^Telegram ^^when ^^there ^^is ^^a ^^new ^^deal ^^in ^^"Home ^^Improvement ^^and ^^Decor" ^^category. ^^Join ^^our ^(Telegram channel)
if you aren't looking forward to wiring a three way, you could use a Lutron Caseta switch or dimmer in the existing position by the door, and mount a Pico Remote in an empty box at the top of the stairs: here's a kit on Amazon
I have about 2/3 of my house set up now via Alexa and smart switches. I happened to get a deal (at the time) through Amazon on Kasa (TPLink) switches. Regular "on/off" switches, 3 way switches and dimmer switches. Good name, seems to be a quality product (going on 8 months with this setup).
For example ...