A good note for the future, Amazon sells code readers which can diagnose & clear the light for around $40: Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6S255PSJ88MEYK66XJPW
I would recommend you to get yourself one of these as it makes the job less of a pain to get right.
You are looking for something like this but I cant help you find anything locally. The key with motorcycles is they sometimes use spark plug sizes that are not the same as cars so make sure the adapter fits your bike. Your bike shop should be able to run the same tests if requested. While your driving style does matter they should be able to prove their case by providing test results even if its a test ride, so consider another shop if you dont want to do this on your own.
https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-HW0130-Cylinder-Compression-Automotive/dp/B00SKSAB8U
This is the one I used for Toyota/Lexus Crankshaft Damper Pulley Holding Holder Harmonic Tool with 2PCS Crank Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q1W36L7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CJT3GXZX41S4PGTHHEPH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Additionally to break it I just used a Walmart breaker bar and added the pipe from my jack for extra leverage. Used another breaker bar and I put on the tool and had it up against the frame of the car. Worked like a charm.
if you read the fault codes, it should say which cylinder is misfiring. then, before buying anything, you can swap it to another cylinder and see if the fault code moves, then you know you got the right one. order a replacement. something like AL319 should be able to read the codes (= https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B007XE8C74 )
Only the right motor mount needs to come off.
But be ready to figure out how to torque the crank bolt. I ended up buying one of these
Code readers aren't that expensive. I'd keep one in the car and read the code when it shows up.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74/
The one I have looks like it has been discontinued/not made anymore/not stocked through amazon anymore. This one appears to be the same with maybe a few added things and bigger
Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t0CIAb8VWPT5Z
BETOOLL HW0130 8pcs Petrol Engine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SKSAB8U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Used this brand new gauge, im not sure why they are so high, you think it could just be the gauge or something else like the head gasket?
That's a beautiful bike!
You can check for air leaks by letting the bike idle and then spraying starting fluid or carb cleaner on suspect areas. These will remove paint and could dissolve some plastics, be sure to cover sensitive areas and wipe up excess ASAP. If you find an air leak, the idle will fluctuate or the bike will die completely when you spray on or near the leak.
I'd also second checking the clutch, it's possible your springs are in need of replacement or your shoes may be excessively worn. Additionally, may not hurt to get a compression tester (they are relatively inexpensive on Amazon) to make sure you've got good compression.
It might be worthwhile for you to go and have a shop, whether it be autozone or advanced auto, hook up an obd2 scanner to your car anyways. There might be a code stored, and they should be able to clear whatever is there. Its free, so its worth trying.
And if you have spare cash laying around, you should pick one up for yourself and never have to borrow someones again. I keep one in each of my cars and I find it comes in handy.
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Worst comes to worst, as mentioned, disconnecting your battery for 10-15 minutes will reset the ECU and everything else.
It can be pretty tricky to get it right the first time. For one the engine has to be ice-cold otherwise you'll get all kinds of wrong data on the feeler gauges.
The process itself is simple in the sense that you have known valve clearances that you need to dial in, but there's always the right and wrong way to do it. I suggest finding someone more experienced who has done this a few times to walk you through it on your first time. There is a tool that makes adjusting the valves super easy since you'd otherwise need a box wrench and a screwdriver.
I bought this yesterday - doesn't need Bluetooth, an app, subscription etc... Tells me I have a misfire, let's see. If the shop agreed on Wednesday. Dead easy to use though Autel Autolink AL319 OBD II/EOBD... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007XE8C74?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'd check with Autozone and see if they rent then. There's not much to them.
https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-HW0130-Cylinder-Compression-Automotive/dp/B00SKSAB8U/
I've never used this one. Just pointing it out as an example.
Before you start firing the parts cannon and following all these good, but shot in the dark suggestions, you need to know what is going on first.
Buy/rent/borrow/steal a compression tester. you can get one from Amazon for $20.
Do a dry test: take all the spark plugs out, pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, and test each cyl, writing down the values. Factory compression is 140-150psi, but your numbers will vary depending on ambient temp, altitude, and engine health. As long as you are over 110 on all cylinders, with no more than 30psi variance, your engine is fine. At that point you should consider replacing the oil pump.
If you get low compression, or more than 30 psi variance, you should do a wet test: pour a capful or two of oil into each cyl right before you test it. If the numbers increase significantly (more than 10 psi), your rings are shot. If they do not increase, you have serious issues, and you prob need to have someone professional investigate. It could be a bad head, bad valves, bad mains, cam bearings....
Mobile mechanics are good. My experience has been that places like Yelp or Google maps will have the best info. Reviews don't lie (most times).
Do you have a check engine light? If so, buy or borrow an OBD scanner. It will give you specific diagnostics. They loan these out at AutoZone.
Saying "it's the engine" is a huge red flag. Engines have many different components. Never let someone do work on your car unless they've given specifics, including a price estimate.
If you don't know about cars, tell them your uncle is going to be reviewing the quote before you authorize any work. They'll often tell you there is an inspection charge, it's always worth it. If you proceed with the repair after they've quoted, the inspection charge will be rolled into the cost.
Cheap obd scanner: Autel OBD2 Scanner Autolink AL319 Code Reader Read and Erase Codes Check State Emission Monitor Status Powerful Scan and Car Diagnostic Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_55ARKGD477FW0ASP06M5
Nowadays they absolutely are! Mini computers and all types of other modern machines! Example for people
A simple scan tool is like $35
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74/
Most parts stores like AutoZone will scan your vehicle for free.
As I mentioned, it could be a simple fix that is easy and obvious, or it could be a difficult and complicated fix.
Personally, I don't trust a lot of the chain shops as they tend to pad the bill, rush the diagnosis and do unnecessary work.
It's the inside. Four 10mm bolts hold it on. And disconnect the black sensor on top. Don't disconnect anything else. The gasket goes on with the little ear on the passenger side pointing up.
This is a perfect little scanner.
Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_QE82AXETPDAKF71NVT6A
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XE8C74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i have this, will it work?
I bought a knock-off one from eBay but the threads on the compressor screw were pretty much gone by the 16th valve since it is a steel screw into a soft aluminum thread and getting it to compress the spring flat and linearly was nearly impossible so I'd be sure to lube the threads if you go this route, or buy two. Like with the genuine one DIYGuys had, it had to be modified to clear the injector rail. Also, the magnetic Lisle retainer and keeper tool makes removal a breeze. It is marketed as a removal and installation tool but using it to install retainers and keepers is super difficult with the engine in the car and you will probably end up sending keepers across your garage like I did or worse, into into your engine if you don't plug the oil galleys.
Nah that’s way loud. They’re using exhaust cutters. Low profile and silent.
GEARWRENCH Exhaust and Tailpipe Cutter - 2031DD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M93OUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T7T2QGY6NQRY23TJRPPA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'd also consider getting an OBD-II scan tool. ~$35 and you'll be able to see (many of) the same error codes an independent mechanic's scan tool would see
Some out here like the $20 bluetooth scanner + smartphone option, but I say spend an extra $15 and get something... semi-pro. Autel makes some of the best units on the market and their entry-level model would work great for this kind of diag https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLink-AL319-Scanner-Automotive/dp/B007XE8C74
I have to change by timing belt too. Do yourself a favor and get the special tool for the crank pulley. With the automatic trans it's almost impossible to stop the crank from turning. Don't be the guy who braces a breaker bar and uses the starter to break the bolt loose. I was recommended this tool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q1W36L7/
You could disconnect the fuel line to the carb, I suppose, and drain the carb. If you were trying to limit it to a single fuel source. I think it's a worthwhile test, albeit possibly inconclusive. If the carb is already providing way too much fuel, it still may not start. I guess you could unbolt the carb, and just let it hang down for the test, so it's not providing fuel.
You can definitely do a compression test at home, here's a $20 tester on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00SKSAB8U/
You just unscrew the spark plug, screw the tester into the hole, turn the choke off, and crank the engine for a few seconds. Then check the reading.
Just use a flexible funnel to divert the flow downward, and a flexible magnetic drain plug tool to get the plug out the last little bit while holding your hand off to the side. OTC Tools 5911A Drain Plug Pro Magnetic Remover, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSJEBBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BE728TM9YZY0KWK51C7Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Key word: long term. If you’re swimming in the shit all day every day it might be a problem. Us DIY folks that do a couple oil changes a year it’s not really an issue as long as you wash up thoroughly soon after doing the job. Also, use a form a funnel, and also use a flexible magnetic drain plug tool to remove the plug that last little bit. I have a Craftsman version of this from Lowe’s. Works awesome. OTC Tools 5911A Drain Plug Pro Magnetic Remover, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSJEBBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BE728TM9YZY0KWK51C7Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yes it does in fact. It’s a 1 and 1/16 and my 6 point 1 and 1/16 would not fit. An open ended wrench may round it. Just get the proper tool for the job and don’t listen to an toaster knights
Lisle 13250 Oil Pressure Switch Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR2RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_C8A9849FS768Y023ZVY3