I find it unfortunate that Bodega didn’t give more credit to scholar and author W. David Marx (aka Marxy), who wrote the definitive book on Ametora, called... wait for it… Ametora! The article shamelessly rips a lot of its substance from the pages of his amazing book.
Highly recommended reading. Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style https://www.amazon.com/dp/0465059732/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xHFsCbB3PYVTQ
Edit: more than half way through he gets two mentions, one of which calls his book the Bible of Ametora, so I revised shameful to unfortunate.
Today:
I do! Get a copy of The Curated Closet (I guess there's also a related workbook but I haven't read that). It was super helpful to me who had a few items I really liked but couldn't really see how to fit them into a more cohesive/compact wardrobe. It's def not one of those "invest in classic pieces" advice books (like no I do not want or need a trenchcoat thanks) but it's great at asking you to look at what you like, what don't like, what you want to wear, what your lifestyle is like, etc. and then helps you figure out what you want to own. It's NOT a quick process though, at least I didn't find it to be quick, but if you really want to commit to the work, I think it's great.
Picture 1 is the costume I made and picture 2 is the actual costume from the film.
I made this costume from a self drafted patterns. I used a book called Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Menswear-Winifred-Aldrich/dp/1405182938/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=winifred+aldrich&qid=1617566759&sprefix=winifre&sr=8-1) For this costume I drafted a historical frock coat, trousers waistcoat and shirt. I drafted basic blocks from this book and adapted them to what I needed.
The jacket is made from a checked wool and the trousers are made from a striped wool. The waistcoat is made from a black and silver floral brocade and the shirt is made from turquoise cotton. All these fabrics came from Minerva crafts. The neck tie is a black Liquorice allsorts pattern cotton that came from Etsy.
The trousers feature embroidery on one of the legs and the coat and waistcoat feature pockets.
This costume was made for my final major project at university and it turned out really well and I am sooo proud of what I accomplished with this costume!
I’ve been reading about capsule wardrobes lately and am trying to move that way with my wardrobe. I realized that despite my over abundance of clothing, there are only certain specific pieces that i wear over and over again and really love. Personally, I don’t think an extremely strict capsule wardrobe would be very realistic for me, but I think there are a lot of good principles that can be pulled out of the concept. I love the idea of focusing on quality, versatile pieces that fit you well and that you feel great in vs. as many fast fashion/trendy/cheap pieces as you can afford (which I realized is how I currently shop and is definitely why i always feel like i have nothing to wear even though my closet is overflowing).
I ordered a book on Amazon called (the Curated Closet. I haven’t finished it yet so I can’t 100% vouch for it, but I’ve flipped through it and read the first couple chapters and I think it will be really useful for me. It’s very functional, it gives you exercises to do to help you develop your personal style and then build your wardrobe around that as a guide.
I made these from a self drafted patterns. I used a book called Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Menswear-Winifred-Aldrich/dp/1405182938/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=winifred+aldrich&qid=1617566759&sprefix=winifre&sr=8-1)
The shirt is made from white satin from fabric land and features a collar and button stand.
The grey top is made from a ribbed jersey from fabric land and features a collar and centre front zip.
The waistcoat is made from black and silver floral brocade and polyester lining from Minerva Crafts and features 4 pockets in the front.
I am a fairly experienced sewer so these was pretty easy to make and was all loads of fun to make. My boyfriend absolutely loves them!!
The Curated Closet by Anuschka Rees. It can help you figure out what you love to wear so you can donate what doesn't work for you
https://www.amazon.com/Curated-Closet-Discovering-Personal-Building/dp/1607749483
Not an article (sorry), but I really enjoyed this book. It does sort of lean more into the Japanese streetwear trend towards the second half of the book, but it's all around a great read if you haven't heard of it before. You could also check Heddels for their articles on the history of particular fashion brands and articles of clothing, they might have something.
I don't subscribe to any magazines. I had a subscription to Threads years ago and there were too many styles that looked home ecky. The Burda patterns usually don't interest me. I don't usually like Vogue patterns, so I've never read the magazine.
Occasionally, I'll see an interesting review of a magazine pattern on a site like Japanese Sewing Books and will save it.
I have a small library of basic patterns and also like Japanese sewing books, such as "Stylish Dress Book: Wear with Freedom".
David Page Coffin — Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing (Taunton Press) — published in 1998, still in print. The “definitive resource” — tons of good information, excellent presentation. One of my all-time favorites.
This book, Shirtmaking, is how I learned to make my own shirts.
I was on mobile before- here's the link for convenience.
Personally, I think it's fine to jump in and learn pattern drafting. I found that once I learned the fundamentals of drafting patterns I had a much better idea of how to alter existing patterns. It's quite easy and straightforward to draft things like skirts, dresses and blouses from a set of measurements. Once you're comfortable with those move on to harder things like pants and jackets. Once you perfect your basic slopers you can basically make any pattern you want without having to spend a bunch of time fussing with the fit. Drafting is a very worthwhile skill and I encourage you to dive in and learn!
I highly recommend the book Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Armstrong (link). This is a pretty standard textbook used in college pattern drafting courses. It starts from the very beginning but it does move quickly. I followed this textbook on my own and had no problems really teaching myself drafting. Sure, there was (a lot of) trial and error and I probably would have made fewer mistakes with the help of a teacher, but it's definitely doable if you want to learn on your own, and learning from a textbook is going to be WAY easier and more comprehensive than learning from various youtube videos and blog posts.
metric pattern cutting for menswear
The womenswear version is great. If the mens version is anything like it, I’d recommend it as a staple.
I would recommend this book. I have a small stack of men's shirt patterns, but I haven't made any of them yet so I can't really recommend any particular one. The one's I've made were from patterns pulled from existing shirts.
As for whether or not it's foolish, I certainly don't think so. I'd start with an inexpensive fabric and make a toile or two, figure out the fit and any alterations that may be needed, but I'd also suggest finishing them as practice. There are quite a few ways to turn collars and to attach them, so I'd make a few of those for the practice and to see what works for you. You'll probably also want to test the buttonholes and such on scrap fabric.
The way you finish the seams and small details and how much you press as you go will really determine the difference between looking professionally made and looking home made. If you can encase a seam or fell it, it'll almost always look and feel better than overlocking no matter what the pattern says. If you don't have one, buy a good iron.
https://www.amazon.com/Curated-Closet-Discovering-Personal-Building/dp/1607749483
This book can be really helpful in “defining” your style, getting you to think about what kinds of items you need, etc. I would recommend actually going through and doing the activities as the author sets out for you
Get a copy of 'Dressing the Man' by Alan Flusser. It has been in print for almost two decades and is becoming a classic. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/0060191449 )
Definitely look into vintage patterns then. They usually have much nicer details than what's currently available. You may still have to alter the pattern to fit you since many vintage patterns are smaller than current ones are. Plus size women's patterns are just as blocky and potato sack as plus size men's patterns. Do they think that plus sized people don't require professional clothing, have jobs or attend events they need to dress for?
Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting was suggested in this thread, but she has also written a book for menswear. I think that would be more appropriate for you. It uses metric measurements, but really, it's just a unit of measure. I'm American, but prefer metric because it's more accurate. Here's the Amazon link. I hope that helps you find something that fits you well.
I totally feel you. After having my kids, my body was completely different, and I hated everything in my closet. At the end of last year, I randomly came across this book (linked below) at the library and found it to be so helpful in finding my style (I ended up buying a used copy on Amazon so I could continue to reference it).
I ended up looking at fashion photos I pinned on Pinterest and finding common themes with pants, tops, dresses, shoes, and other accessories. I was surprised to uncover that I'm drawn to metallic shoes and statement earrings. I found that my style doesn't really match any of the influencers I follow.
Right now, I'm trying out my "uncovered" style through Nuuly (clothing rental service). I work from home, but am meetings (required to have camera on), so I feel like I'm getting use out of my rentals. Plus, I wear them on weekends. It's a fun way to try clothes out and really test out clothes/styles.
Book: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1607749483/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oh don't worry, a decent amount of professional pattern cutting is copying some vintage (or sometimes not vintage) garment anyways. I think copying clothes is a great way to start learning.
If you decide to learn, I've heard good things about the books by Winifred Aldrich. I use the Muller and Sohn books, but they're quite a bit more expensive.
If you ever need any help with patterns or making stuff feel free to DM me, I always like seeing other peoples work!
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Dressing the man leans towards classic styles, but it also has some really good tips, including what colors go best with what skintones and how to match things. https://www.amazon.com/dp/0060191449/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_N2Q59S2M9KKQ20182ZD8
Very clumsily worded, but, Japanese reiterations of western garments are on another level.
And folk in Japan who are into clothes are deeply immersed in it, very knowledgeable about fabric, cut drape and the history of garments..
Quite a few British heritage brands openly admit that without the very specialised nature of the Japanese market that their goods would no longer be in production.
W.DAVID MARX's Ametora is a good primer in Japanese cultures obsession with Americana..https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ametora-Japan-Saved-American-Style/dp/0465059732
I believe so! I’ve read the e version, which I just rented from my library.
The Curated Closet: A Simple System for Discovering Your Personal Style and Building Your Dream Wardrobe https://www.amazon.com/dp/1607749483/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AV8K7X6J5S0BQQNG1XHK There’s a kindle version available on amazon
The relationship between Japan and traditional American styles (prep, Ivy looks, workwear, western wear) is really fascinating. “Ametora” is sort of <em>the book</em> when it comes to learning about this trend, but there are plenty of good summaries available online.
That’s why some of the “best” Americana or Ivy League type clothes are actually coming from Japanese brands - Kamakura, Beams, and roughly a million different selvedge denim brands.
I made this jacket from a self drafted pattern. I used a book called Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Menswear-Winifred-Aldrich/dp/1405182938/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=winifred+aldrich&qid=1617566759&sprefix=winifre&sr=8-1)
For this jacket I used dark blue denim with a light blue stripe in it. I also used light blue denim. Both fabrics came from Minerva Crafts.
The fronts and the bottom of the back is made from the dark blue striped denim and the top of the back and the sleeves are made from the light blue denim.
This jacket includes a stand collar and two slit pockets on the inside of the front and two pockets in the side seams.
I am a fairly experienced sewer so this jacket was pretty easy to make and was all loads of fun to make. I hope my boyfriend loves it when I can eventually give it to him!!
This jacket was made from a self drafted pattern. I used a book called Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich to make the pattern (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Menswear-Winifred-Aldrich/dp/1405182938/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=winifred+aldrich&qid=1617651525&sprefix=winifr&sr=8-2) This jacket was made from a green and brown dog tooth check wool from Minerva Crafts
It features a lapel collar, green buttons and pockets in the inside.
I am a fairly experienced sewer so this jacket was pretty easy to make!
I made this jacket from a self drafted pattern. I used a book called Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Menswear-Winifred-Aldrich/dp/1405182938/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=winifred+aldrich&qid=1617566759&sprefix=winifre&sr=8-1)
For this jacket I used green cord and black denim for the outside of it. Both of these came from Minerva Crafts. The inside of the jacket is lined with more of the green cord and black fleece to make it nice and warm. The fleece also came from Minerva Crafts.
The buttons are black with a crown design on them and I got them from Amazon (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07HDGJP64?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title)
This jacket includes a collar and two patch pockets.
I am a fairly experienced sewer so this jacket was pretty easy to make and was all loads of fun to make. I hope my boyfriend loves it when I can eventually give it to him!!
https://www.amazon.ca/Fruits-Shoichi-Aoki/dp/0714840831
the dudes hair is spikier a than clouds. but you tell me about historical construction of race in anime. lol.
the blond on black trend started in japan.
you sound so fucking white. imagining yourself in all the things. literally this is a fight i have with white weebs all the time. they cant stand theyre not the protags of everything.
i guess i can view a world that is not axiomatic to whiteness and produced in asia.
A lot of the styles in this game was inspired by the street fashion of early 90s Japan. https://www.amazon.com/Fruits-Shoichi-Aoki/dp/0714840831/ref=nodl_
The book Fruits. Is a nice visual collection of a lot of the popular street styles.