A no spill coolant funnel. It saves mess, burns and aggravation. Just fill it half full and let the air burp out while you tend to other things.
EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1q3zAb7ZPJXM1
Yes, but not Superchargers. You can use Tesla destination and home installed chargers. It is only an L2 solution.
https://www.amazon.com/Lectron-Tesla-Charger-J1772-Adapter/dp/B07V7V2QT8
Superchargers are L3 and Tesla only.
bleed the system properly.
I can almost guarantee you have air in the system. if you're not noticing the level dropping.
to bleed the car properly watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU
you can get that funnel off amazon Lisle spill free funnel
you can certainly do it without that funnel but you'll be in for a messy/sticky job and you'll let fluid spill all over the damn place.
In the US we can get a well reviewed level 1/level 2 charger for $200.
Megear Level 1-2 EV Charger(100-240V,16A) Portable EVSE Home Electric Vehicle Charging Station(NEMA6-20 with Adapter for NEMA5-15) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GJK2S9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EKWVHZEP5AWNWHM79KA9
A Dolly and Moving Straps for going up stairs are 2 essential items I always bring to help people move.
Fuck breaking your back, I help people move so that they owe me a favor when I have to move and for free beer and Pizza.
Other brands can already charge at Tesla destination chargers since the connector protocol is compatible with J1772 communication.
They just need a Tesla-> J1772 adapter, now you can get one for just $160.
Re: "they need a Tesla": not necessarily. There are adapters that convert from Tesla to J1772 (for example this one). Saw someone charge their BMW 530e at a Tesla destination charger with one of those.
If you're not dead-set on a connected charger, you could get something like this one that actually rated/designed to do both 120 and 240 for a lot cheaper. I have basically the same one that I keep in my car.
Just get a cheapo ($200-300) portable level 2 cord that does level 1 or 2 charging. 120v/240v, your choice. These generally level 2 charge at a slower rate.. but still are a nice option. You can level 2 charge at any rv park in a pinch with it.
Look at reviews. Here's the first result on Amazon:
Also, most cars lock the charger in place when you lock the car.
There is actually a Tesla to J1772 adapter. OP should get a Tesla charger, then get the adapter if/when they get a non-Tesla EV.
Lectron - Tesla to J1772 Adapter, Max 40A & 250V - Compatible with Tesla High Powered Connector, Destination Charger, and Mobile Connector (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V7V2QT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3AXKWRMGM408CK8R92B7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The Tesla charger is a very good value for a 48A EVSE and you won’t need an adapter every time you charge it.
Thanks. Do you think something like this would do a similar job as I'm based in Europe so not familiar with that store: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sierra-Tools-JB5684-Operated-Transfer/dp/B00318D7K8/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=13TNYNC93X5MK&dchild=1&keywords=liquid+transfer+pump&qid=1627748793&sprefix=liquid+transfer%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-3
I have an aftermarket charging cable because Carvana originally told me the car would arrive without one. It arrived with the original charging cord tucked in the side compartment in the rear, and you're right that one doesn't have a cap. Mine was absolutely filthy so I'm sure the previous owner was charging outside.
This is the one I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GJK2S9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
It's been working great for the last 2 months I've had it. I like the cord keeper kit with wall cap for safe keeping too. You can buy that kit separately if that's what you'd like.
Lots of people seem to really struggle getting all of the air bled from the coolant on the KA for some reason. Jack up the front and use one of these funnels. let the car come up to temp with the heater on defrost, full heat, full blast. might need to rev it a few times. You may still have air trapped in there. if so, with that thing about a third or half full, it'll be the high point on the system and the air will escape there. Don't fill it more than half of the funnel, the coolant will expand as it heats.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
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especially from your statement that there is no hot air coming out in defrost.
100% you've still got air trapped in there.
Just bought one if these for $160 and works great:
2013 1st-gen Tesla mobile charger --> this adapter --> 2022 Bolt charges at 9.6kW (40A).
If you have a newer Tesla mobile charger or an older Bolt, it will charge at 32A, but still cheaper than Chevy's dual-charger (~$250).
>this was prompted by my car navigating me to a charging station only for it to be a Tesla destination charger (with no accompanying J1772).
FYI, you can buy an adapter to charge at Tesla Destination chargers. Of course there's no way to charge at a Supercharger.
Then I will keep an eye out on the radiator to see if I need to top out any coolant
--That step is crucial and many forget to keep an eye on the coolant level after driving it around.
I'd definitely get a good radiator funnel for burping like the one linked below. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6AS6LY/
Step 1: get any sort of safety toe non-slip boot or shoe. Make sure you find it comfortable while bending, squatting, walking, and generally being in all day. They even make hiking style boots nowadays that are really breathable. Just do some research and experiment at a store. Many of the suggestions here are excellent.
Step 2: make sure you have a good pair of non-slip and abrasion resistant gloves so you don't hurt your hands
Step 3: buy a set of Shoulder Dolly Moving Straps. Even if you can't expense them, it will be the best $40 you'll ever spend when it comes to efficiency in moving and maneuvering.
A couple of guys dropped off a washer and dryer for us a few years ago and had a set of these. We had a very narrow stairway with a terrible sharp angle at the top going down to a very cramped utility room/laundry room, and they were able to get the old set out and the new set in in about 20 minutes total. I was so impressed I bought a set the next day and it's been a lifesaver.
I've moved awkward and heavy furniture, appliances, entire households, even a 4'x5' granite countertop where we clamped the belt around the bottom so it wouldn't slip and lifted it right out of the house.
Best money you will ever spend if you move heavy things with any frequency.
Tesla Gen 3 Charger + Tesla J1772 Adapter = NO (Tesla J1772 adapter is for converting J1772 to Tesla plug. Not the other way around.
Tesla Gen 3 Charger + third Party J1772 converter (for example - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V7V2QT8/) = YES
Third party EV wall charger + Tesla J1772 adapter = YES
Get a line out converter. Splice it into the radio harness and gives you rca outs. Just find one on Amazon with good reviews.
Edit : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Llk-ub0FVZFK0
Check this out
hi, sure! I used a cheap generic "Buck Converter DC DC Step Down" referred in the amazon listing as MP1584EN, that takes max 24V IN (so we should be within the range even on charging phase) and lowers it down to 3.3v needed to run safely the esp8266.
amazon link: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
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on my module i have a screw for selecting the desired voltage output, you have to be very accurate, slights movements of this screw cause big changes in output, but with some patience and a multimeter you should be able to set it up for your desired OUT value.
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as for your LDO attempt: i don't know which model you used but if it gets hot it's either too much voltage IN, hence the lowering process produces too much heat or too much amperage to sustain. Check the datasheets if you remember which model you used
True.
Next question: Is the wire in the outlet 14 gauge or 12 gauge?
If it’s the latter, you would upgrade the circuit to a 6-20, which should be more common EVSE plug.
Edit: example
Megear Level 1-2 EV Charger(100-240V,16A) Portable EVSE Home Electric Vehicle Charging Station(NEMA6-20 with Adapter for NEMA5-15) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GJK2S9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G19PAZVSSPGHATBEXNHG
Na, I just came up with my own plan as I went.
Just about any 5volt buck converter will do the job, just get one with enough amps. I think the built-in usb provides ~600ma, I got one that outputs 3amps from a source voltage of 6-18 and I think it cost like four bucks, I bought a pack of 5 though as I use them for all sorts of projects. You'll power it from a constant 12volt supply, which I just piggybacked from the 12volt accessory socket. I also put in a 12v regulator between the 12 tap and the buck converter, just to ensure a clean steady 12v source to power the buck.
As far as wiring, that wasn't too bad, just find the four wires for the usb plug, cut the 5v pin so you only power the usb from the buck, but tie all the grounds together to serve as reference ground for the buck.
If you want to support fast charge, there are a bunch of premade circuit boards and reference designs, but I didn't bother on mine. I used to get the "your device is charging slowly" notification all the time with my pixel, now charges perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/MP1584EN-DC-DC-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI
These are bucks I bought. Do make sure you adjust these property before you plug in something expensive like your cell phone...
I had a similar issue once after doing a coolant flush. The car had one of those stupid ass pressurized reservoirs and no cap on the radiator. I thought I bled the system thoroughly enough but, NOPE!
Took it for a test drive around the neighborhood and that needle started to rise after less than a minute. I shut it down immediately. Fortunately, I was still on my street.
I let things cool down and then tried another bleeding process. Come to find out, I had a pretty massive air bubble as during my second bleed, a big gulp of coolant finally got sucked down. After that she was good.
I've found that using one of these makes the coolant bleeding process so much easier and cleaner.
Never had an issue again after using this.
Firstly, what kind of EV do you have that doesn't have a J1772 and uses Lead-acid batteries? Does it support 240v by chance? If so you might be able to make this work if your garage just has the "High power wall connectors" and not SuperChargers.
First you need this adapter to get from the Tesla-specific plug out to normal J1722 https://www.amazon.com/Lectron-Tesla-Charger-J1772-Adapter/dp/B07V7V2QT8
Then there is this thing that takes a J1772 and gives you normal plug. The trick is, it will only do 220v output. https://www.evseadapters.com/products/j1772-ev-adapter-for-ebike/
A bit cheaper but probably the same thing. These things have been my saving grace since I got into DWC. You could buy two for when the first inevitably fails when you're changing tubs lol.
I don’t know the legal aspects, but this might get you what you want: Lectron - Tesla to J1772 Adapter, Max 40A & 250V - Compatible with Tesla High Powered Connector, Destination Charger, and Mobile Connector (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V7V2QT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_51E80AA5NVX4ZJ32KAEA
There are two things here:
"Tesla Destination Chargers" - these are the same as "Level 2" chargers that are common for home charging, and at many "around town" locations that don't spring for full DC rapid chargers. These are, in fact, the same thing as a standard level 2 EVSE, just with a Tesla plug instead of a J-1772 plug. You can get adapters for these that let any EV charge at a Tesla Destination Charger. (Or use a Tesla home charger.)
"Tesla Superchargers" - these are 100% proprietary. While early on, Elon did say that the Tesla charging system would be "open" - it required that another automaker who wanted to use it needed to give Tesla royalty-free licenses to all their EV-related patents. Semi-obviously, no other automaker took them up on the offer, not even the automakers who made EVs with Tesla powertrains (Toyota with the second gen RAV4 EV and Mercedes with the B-class Electric.) So while those two vehicles have Tesla motors and batteries, and there are even third-party CHAdeMO conversions for them (both came with only "Level 2" AC charging,) there is no conversion to support a Supercharger.
Neither Elon nor Tesla have made any statements about Superchargers being "open" in years. I don't know if Elon's offer is still valid or not, but since the system relies on two-way communication with the vehicle, and that vehicle having a valid Tesla account with billing information, I wouldn't hold your breath.
What I think is more likely is that at some point Tesla switches to CCS as they have in Europe, then the Supercharger network will be just another CCS network that any CCS EV can plug in to.
I felt my fingers smashing into metal guard rails from reading that lol.
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Next time I'm going to make sure to get a lifting strap, so it'll somewhat simulate deadlifts/farmer's-carry