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I hate being that guy but like... this is a sub for professional sysadmins, not for hobbyists to ask tech support questions.
Anyway, I think what you're looking for is a smart plug of some kind.
if you can reach the plug easely, most smart plugs have buttons that can be controlled locally, something like this might work:
I’ve seen this idea elsewhere. But get a smart plug, you can set a timer to switch the plug off/ hence kill power to the charger after a set amount of time. I did this last night on my second balance session. Set the timer for 11 hours 45 minutes. Worked flawlessly. I like this model Limited-time deal: Kasa Smart Plug HS103P4, Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Echo, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, 15 Amp, UL Certified,4-Pack , White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCNB2L3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MZ4Z5PWVB753VT8RTHN0
I converted my Anvil Foundry to 220v. Was pretty easy and your job will be the same. If the Digiboil only uses 3 wires in the original cord, cut the end off and install the one you need. The black and white wires will go to the two hot lines and the green will be the ground. The new plug should have some sort of info showing which wire goes where. Only question would be how much current the Digiboil draws. Dryer lines are typically 30amp which should be way more than adequate for your use.
As far as the GFCI is concerned, I used this one. It installs inline, is rated for 220v and also doubles as another power switch. So far no issues using this setup.
This is the one I picked up prior to powering on my SpaceBucket and I haven't tripped a breaker. $10 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UOU6OVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Note, prior to the SpaceBucket, in the place I am currently living (has bad wiring and circuits) and I was tripping breakers.
I never once tripped and i've been running my SpaceBucket(s) for over 2 months now.
It sounds like you've already enabled the schedule and then turned on Sleep Mode at its lowest setting. The 'Light Sleeper' is 39 dB and that's equivalent to a human whispering. Is the Mila right next to your head?
Your only other option will be to buy these: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Alexa-Smart-Wifi-Plug/dp/B07S57PQSM and schedule it to power off at a schedule that suits your needs.
It's these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S57PQSM/
Here's the guide I used to authenticate via API: http://itnerd.space/2017/06/19/how-to-authenticate-to-tp-link-cloud-api/
If you have any programming knowledge you should be able to take it from here, but let me know if you need help. Took me hours and hours to figure it out myself.
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Kasa Smart Plug HS103P4, Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Echo, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, 15 Amp, UL Certified, 4-Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RCNB2L3?ascsubtag=b2945112ab1b11ec989ae645f6083ee10INT&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=an0e75-20&linkId=b5504f85f3a4c5970014789ab924860d&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
Put the power surge inside a box to make it look better. I would also advise on connecting the plant lights to a wifi enabled connector plug. I do this and it automatically turns them on and off at set intervals, just make sure the physical switch is on.
I agree on placing the plant stand against the cinderblock, moving the lizard next to it, then moving tv to lizard side.
Hope you find it useful. I did forget to add that most lights like this use an inline switch, which obviously isn't going to work too well if it hidden in the back of a cabinet. My solution to that was a couple of smart plug switches like this. You can use them as designed and control the lights with your phone, or you can ignore that, and use the physical on/off button on the side of the switch.
The Arduino power supply is plugged into one of these wifi outlets.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DYMS1L3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I created a routine the Google Home app to turn off the outlet, wait a few seconds, and then turn it back on. This power cycles the Arduino, which I have coded to trigger one feed cycle. I actually ordered a real time clock module before I thought of this, I was just going to have the thing auto-feed once a day after wiring in the clock, but this is way easier and cooler.
In my experience, if you're going with the plug on a timer instead of a smart bulb, the WiFi variety with an app is significantly easier to use and more reliable than that manual one they linked. I've used these Kasa ones with great success.
Amazon is one of earth's largest corporations and gets scrutiny from name-brand newspapers -- if you embarrass Amazon, most newspapers will pick up the story. So Amazon spends money on security.
You want to find the cheapest knock-off IoT device you can, like a smart plug, and see if you can identify a failure mode like "I can make the lights flicker fast enough to short the bulb / blow the breaker". Then find a way to get control of the plug from within its own LAN.
I purchased this 4‐pack of smart receptacles for $26: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCNB2L3/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_dl_H5NG1T6H14H7Q1AP9M7J
I connected it to my Alexa and just use voice commands to turn on and off. You can also use their app if you don't have Amazon smart speaker. I have 3 base stations, and I use the fourth plug to power the Vajro headset. This way I can turn it all on as a group.
These are easy to set up and won't lose their config if you have a power outage. Bless your heart for not having a timer!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S57PQSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Lol what I meant is that rebooting may not solve your offline issue but there is a fix to rebooting remotely if you want to
I use these for my lights. In the app, you can setup a schedule to turn on and off your lights. They frequently go on sale, I think I got this four pack for around 20-25 last time it was on sale.
Kasa Smart Plug HS103P4, Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Echo, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, 15 Amp, UL Certified, 4-Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCNB2L3/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_62GCBFXR2EB4G3NYBBQ4
Change it and get a WR. You can’t fix gfis and they don’t work like a circuit breakers
TOPELE 15 Amp GFCI Outlet 125 Volt Tamper-Resistant and Weather-Resistant, Receptacle, Indicator with LED Light, Nylon Wallplate and Screws Included,TR WR White, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X725S4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AMV9KR49MSY5DAMVB4NP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Leviton GFNL1-W Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim GFCI Tamper-Resistant Receptacle with Guidelight and LED Indicator, 15-Amp, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013OVC61C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_9JEAD3ST7NQ5QBMAQQQ3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you for your detailed response! I will check to see if the outlet is on the same circuit breaker as out oven. I absolutely would not plug anything else into the same outlet. This is the actual plug we got (which is big enough to cover both outlets so no one accidentally plugs something in.)
Tower Manufacturing 30439005 Auto-Reset 15 AMP Grounded 3-Prong GFCI Single Outlet Adapter, Yellow https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00UOU6OVU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_AAW8CVMT9MCTXTP91R4F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My new dry vac dust collected causes a trip of the circuit breakers fairly often. Maybe a couple times a week. Its unideal. Right now I just plug it into a surge protector which is plugged into the outlet.
What an external GFCI adapter help? Or would it make no difference.
Hi! Thanks for the comment-- this is the inline GFCI we have. It's the same one that is used in the video I linked above.
I am pretty sure it's not a 4-wire GFCI. That's why I'm wondering about powering the PID on the line/unprotected side of the GFCI.
The guy in the video ([u/shortcircuitedbrewer](shortcircuitedbrewer)) just omits the neutral when going from the plug to the GFCI, he just pops out the neutral prong.
I had a look around for a spa panel but I found the local cost (in Canada) was pretty high, around $300.
We installed a receptacle with a nightlight, inside the bathroom door and it was the best decision ever. I never turn on the light for the late night pees, which is clutch because my 1 year old has his room right next the bathroom and is a light sleeper.
> Can't set base stations to auto-suspend when SteamVR exits, so have to unplug/replug them manually every time (or deal with their annoying noise).
I use smart outlets for this. You can just yell at you Siri/google/Alexa to turn them on :). Cheap for a set of 4: Limited-time deal: Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Echo, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, 15 Amp, UL Certified, 4-Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCNB2L3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_ZPVJ73V6TDNWJ65CKK1V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Plug HS103P4, Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Compatible with Alexa, Echo, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, 15 Amp, UL Certified,4-Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCNB2L3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V0G9RC4ATBNDZQF5D4V1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the type plug you need...it will connect to your wi-fi through the SmartHome app, which you can use to turn them on/off. You can use your phone entirely (including the Amazon Alexa app) or you can get an Amazon Alexa/Google Home device and it will allow you to control things via voice. (So will the Alexa app on your phone, but not as easily/quickly as speaking directly to a voice-ready device.)
Happy to answer anything else if you need. Cheers. Let me know how it works for you!
This is the one I used:
Leviton GFNL1-W Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim GFCI Tamper-Resistant Receptacle with Guidelight and LED Indicator, 15-Amp, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013OVC61C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_C5P8VFT460YC5VN6CFEK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A lot of us use wifi smart plugs. They're less expensive, are easier to program and will do what you want.
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I find it hard to believe that a Kasa outlet would be great yet a Kasa plug-in switch would be flawed. This Kasa plug-in actually has a higher percentage of 4-star reviews, plus is much lower cost (4 for only $25):
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Kasa-Smart-Wifi-Plug/dp/B07RCNB2L3
these will save you .25"-.5" in the box. looks like the ground is touching the neutral, you probably also have an upstream gfci there is a lot of misinformation on the internet but a gfci may protect downstream devices. if the neutral did touch the ground and there is an upstream gfci, it would need to be reset before you could reset this.
if none of this helps you remember a gfci is a LIFE SAFETY device and electricians save lives. <3
I take reddit gold for tips.
That's a good way to do it.
Cheaper and easier may be a smart switch that will reset power on a schedule. You can for example restart the dish every night or so.