The best
Gun Cleaning Kits:
Reddit reviews
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The best of Gun Cleaning Kits by number of unique Reddit comments:
![Birchwood Casey PERMA BLUE LIQUID Air Gun Shotgun Blueing 90ml [13125] Blue Rifle](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41Ti0BOWUXL._SL500_.jpg)
Top Reddit reviews mentioning Gun Cleaning Kits:
Been EDCing my ultratech every day since I got it and it started misfiring or not locking but just lubed it with some Hoppe's Lubricating Oil and the problem pretty much dissipated. The deploy force can barely get into cardboard though.
Are all of these brand new? Looks like the handgun ones have plastic wrap but wasn't sure about the long gun ones.
Amazon is selling some of these/similar products for similar pricing.
Here's a cheaper version of the AR mat.
Places like Midway are still selling it for $189.99. Looks like Amazon has them for $147.99 as well with prime shipping available to boot.
It's a TekMat and they're pretty neat.
Amazon
Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/Glock-AD00073-Perfection-Cleaning-Bench/dp/B00A6VX9M4
^^^I'm ^^^a ^^^bot ^^^and ^^^this ^^^action ^^^was ^^^performed ^^^automatically.
When you get to that point, maybe make a new post. I'd hate to advise you wrong, here. I also think more people would see the question about proper oiling procedure if you make a new post with that title when you decide you need to oil it.
Here's my observations:
After 70 years, the grease/oil used over that time has solidified some, got dust and crud in it, etc. You have to use a solvent (? is that the right word?) to clean it off completely. Then, in some of the locations you'll want to add oil back onto the clean parts. You want clean parts, so you're not immediately adding grime and dirt back into the works.
I've personally only ever used gun oil (Rem oil, or Hoppe's 9 [amazon.com/Hoppes-Oil-Combo-Pack-Precision/dp/B073PHCTG2] for instance). But the ball bearings or whatever that are under the carriage might benefit from a different kind of oil -- but I'm not sure about that since I've never needed anything better/different than the Hoppe's.
I'm just letting you know my advice comes with the above caveat, and I encourage you to post a new thread if you clean it and think you need to oil it after you've cleaned -- for instance if it doesn't "feel" right yet with just the cleaning.
Technically yes but it may help break down whatever they used to secure it. I use a Wheeler barrel clamp for muzzle work. It keeps the torque from transferring into the barrel nut and receiver.
Its probably a Tek Mat. They're for gun cleaning / assembly, but its literally the same material as a cloth mousepad.
https://www.amazon.com/TekMat-12-Inch-36-Inch-Long-Cleaning/dp/B0036N474S
Just search for TekMat on amazon and you should be able to find a ton of different guns.
A barrel clamp is less than half the price and still much better than the lug-lok/reaction rod.
In fact, you can buy a split block from PlastiXrevolution for $23 and the barrel clamp for $37 and still save money over the lug-lock while having tools that will be significantly less likely to damage your components.
Did you remove the barrel to install the trigger bow?
I used this from Wheeler, bought it 7 years ago. I'm sure there may be better options out there. The Tavor barrel is a pencil barrel so I have to use the smallest diameter opening. I've seen some that use wood blocks. Rosin powder can help grip as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-672286-Universal-Barrel-Clamp/dp/B00RPAE8J2
There's only 2 that I use. One is a gun oil, the other is a sewing machine oil. they are absolutely interchangeable...lol
Anyway that loob looks brown and probably not a good idea. Use clear high quality, high viscosity oils for your sewing machine that don't turn yellow and don't break down easily.
hoppes no 9 https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Oil-Combo-Pack-Precision/dp/B073PHCTG2
Juki defrix oil https://www.amazon.com/Juki-Genuine-Defrix-Sewing-Machine/dp/B01N190GB3
or anything similar to these.
Was kinda fun little February/off season golf project.
For the black oxide finish I used one of these kits Amazon link . But I paid $20 at a Bass Pro Shop.
I have a small bottle with a needle spout that is filled with Hoppes #9. It's perfect for things that need a very small amount of oil. I use it on my sewing machine, bearings, etc.
Pick up a bottle of hoppe's 9 oil and you can address the mirror squeak yourself. The bit you're lubricating doesn't need much - basically half a drop and it has a low enough surface tension that it will migrate into the crevices it needs to be in. I did this fix through the bottom of the camera after removing the bottom plate.
Edit: then I googled what a needle oiler is and have to ask, whats the difference between a bottle with a needle vs the pen looking device?
Started out with the Dillion dry tumblers and now that I do around 10,000 a month for the team the Franklin arsenal wet tumbler with steel pins is the only way. Never will go back. They look great after 30 minutes inside and out.
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Separator-Polishing-Reloading/dp/B00HTN4R6O
The Reaction Rod is a waste of money. It costs more than the vastly superior MI Upper Receiver Rod and is even outperformed by a $23 split block from PlastiXrevolution.
You really should use a barrel clamp for muzzle device work, anything else should be a split block or a URR. Tools like the bev block and reaction rod are by far the worst options for upper receiver work.
Otis Technologies FG-750 Cleaning System, Tactical, Clam Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000C52A5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kM7yFb6Q0Q7B4
I picked up this one. And somebrushes.
Otis Technology Bronze All... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRH2BD9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share.
I'm a first time gun owner so I'm no expert or anything just bought what I needed and figured the money I save could be used for a light or holster.
barrel clamp and a really long wrench
All of my muzzle devices have copious amounts of rocksett and this method works flawlessly at getting them off.
If you can't borrow some locally, Birchwood Casey has a kit on Amazon for $14. Might be worth it since you said you got a 10 pack of these
Going to get this Wheeler Universal Barrel Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RPAE8J2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FCZ3Cb0NFN5ZH
Gwacs mk II for the record of anyone ever stumbling on this on this is a cool lower, but it's not going to be easy to find the pins, cav arms doesn't sell them anymore, and gwacs isn't really all that responsive. The safety is not easy or always possible to remove, once installed. Also, the left side of the mag release area is too deep and demands an ambi release to work reliably, but a standard lower is still smoother, easier imo.
Otis makes some really nice kits, but I don't know if I'd call them 'luxury'. But they're local (to me) and the military uses them, so I use them.
Otis Technology The Otis Elite https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QVR4K6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OYT5BbX7QN1HD
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-672286-Universal-Barrel-Clamp/dp/B00RPAE8J2
It's what I use and it works wonders. I usually use copious amounts of rocksett when installing muzzle devices. I ended up swapping from a standard gas block to an adjustable one on my ar10 and gad to remove the muzzle device. The fucker was on there so tight that I ended up lifting the entire bench before the rocksett broke free.
Don't get a Reaction Rod or BEV Block. They both put stress on the index pin which was never designed to take any torque.
Get a barrel clamp if you're working on gas blocks or muzzle devices.
You can also get this upper vice block for $24 and it's a LOT safer to use than the reaction rod or bev block.
A friend got it for me.
I found an AR 15 one after a quick google search on Amazon.ca
I'm sure they have the gun you want there somewhere
If you're worried, you can get something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Otis-Tactical-Cleaning-System-Brushes/dp/B0000C52A5
I have one that I can clean every rifle and pistol I own. They easily attach to a strap or molle web platform. As others have pointed out, unless you're in the mud or water (or own a kimber or something that rusts super easy) you shouldn't need to clean, but it's nice to have the ability.
Otis CLP
I'm still quite new, but I bought this little package to get me started and hopefully it will last me a good while. My only real gripe so far is that the case isn't the best, and the brushes can be hard to pull out of their respective holders. Does the job though, my SKS looks friggin mint.
I have this one and it works great. Probably as cheap as you can get for a stainless tumbler: https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Series-Rotary-Tumbler-7L/dp/B00HTN4R6O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490555477&sr=8-1&keywords=frankford+arsenal+tumbler
You'll most likely never need to replace the media unless you lose some over the years. If you're looking to clean up nasty suppressor baffles, definitely get a stainless wet tumbler. I had a dry corncob tumbler before that I used for brass and it worked fine for brass but it didn't do shit to a crudded up baffle.