Woodcraft has a highly reviewed one on sale for $20 right now. Here are the Amazon reviews for it since it looks like the Woodcraft site doesn't have any reviews.
My local Woodcraft was out of them Saturday when I was there. So maybe call ahead if you're going to try to pick up locally.
20% off this Ryoba pull saw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU9XB1W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2TGKEFETR2PWY&psc=1
I don't think this is a Prime day deal but I also just recently picked up a Dewalt 735X planer for $500 and it looks like there's another $25 coupon on it as well. Pretty crazy price for that. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OX9KME/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I would say a good hand saw. I have a Japanese Pull Saw, and it's almost as fast as setting up my power tools, and cutting. This is the one I have.
I have a little hobby hand saw that works awesome for bigger pieces. https://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75300-Precision-Razor-Saw/dp/B00004Z2U4/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=hobby+saw&qid=1600196236&sr=8-5
This kind: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9XB1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bnwxFbKA4YYMC
They are not expensive but once you start using it, it will probably become your goto saw for most purposes.
Edit: another advantage to the Japanese saw is that the blades are inexpensive to replace when they get dull. Western saws cost more to replace or the fancy ones can be resharpened which is a whole ordeal. There are experts who resharpen fancy Japanese saws, but they all live in Japan and the saws they sell here aren't really made to be resharpened anyway. But at $20 for a replacement blade I'm not gonna start caring any time soon.
Home depot and other big box stores only promise to get within 1/4 inch if your target. Not great for trim and baseboards.
Better option would be to spend $20 to buy a miter box. https://www.amazon.com/35-241-35-550-Aluminum-014-Inch-Cutting/dp/B000BRBZYC/
Trim is pretty thin and easy to cut and the miter box will keep your cuts straight (or 45 degrees for corners).
Looks like a good one. I have the 7-inch Ryoba from Suizan: https://www.amazon.com/SUIZAN-japanese-ryoba-double-woodworking/dp/B07HGQXXWC/
I like it, but it’s a bit small for big resawing jobs. Seriously considering getting a rip panel saw for anything over 8 inches thick or so. I’ve had to resaw panels along the thin side lately, and it can get tedious and tiresome with a short saw.
Any chance you could spend a little money and get a handsaw? Something like this may do the trick for small projects like you're describing without the run-around of finding a precut project.
SUIZAN Japanese Pull Saw Hand Saw 9.5 Inch Ryoba Double Edge for Woodworking https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9XB1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_pjWUFb33FZX0H
Japanese pull saw. Super useful for flush cuts or precision hand cuts, and cheap enough too. Save it for when you need to pad your Amazon order to get up to $35.
I really like the sound of Japanese saws over Western, but am wary of chintzy knockoffs. Someone recommended this brand of saws, sold via Amazon, that are made in Japan:
Do you have experience with this brand at all? Were I to swap out the Japan Woodworker saws for these to save some money, do you think I'd be alright or do the Amazon ones look unusable?
And as for planes, do you think I could get by with two? And if so, which two would that be? Block and Jack or Smoothing and Jack?
Xacto Razor Saw from Amazon for $10.
Dozuki is for dovetails. This one is more general purpose.
SUIZAN Japanese Pull Saw Hand Saw 9.5 Inch Ryoba Double Edge for Woodworking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9XB1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n-nKFbX4N5KZF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My guess is that you are distressing new assembly to make it look like an antique, right? I use a Shinto saw rasp to imitate the effects of rodents on furniture. A coarse or bastard cabinetmakers rasp will also do the job. (I also us a big ring with about 50 keys on it to imitate the effects of children.)
A table saw, or a good pull saw like
SUIZAN Japanese Pull Saw Hand Saw 9.5 Inch Ryoba Double Edge for Woodworking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9XB1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3uAgFbYTS8TAD
Pull saws offer easier easier cutting using more arm motion and less hand strain as long as the piece can be set up right. A circular saw might be appropriate depending on what other setup she has. Okay circular saws can be had at Lowe’s and Home Depot for $35
You are never going to match the grain with a fill. Easiest option is to chop off 1" (the overhang), break the sharp corner left from the cut with some sandpaper, then add some topcoat to the end grain. Being end grain it will look different no matter what topcoat you use so this will help make the color match easier.
Next best option is to use a jigsaw and round off both corners but if done properly might end up looking terrible. Some risk, but a little better payoff. You can also buy a rasp and create the round by hand which IMO is rather fun and you would have plenty of control. This Japanese Shinto rasp would be perfect. Find something with the correct radius you want (maybe the bottom of a can of peaches ?) to draw a radius, then work your way to it.
I wouldn't be opposed to using a cordless drill + forstner bit if it was a round hole, as it would leave a clean cut. But if I wanted more freehand work, I use rasps and files, followed by sandpaper.
This Shinto rasp can handle most jobs as long as it can fit. One side is rough to hog off material quickly, the other side has finer teeth for a smoother finish.
If you need to file into some curves or inside corners, then a file set like this would help: https://www.amazon.com/DS-Space-Carbon-Wooden-Handles-Plastic/dp/B074J5RJFW/
I'd suggest using a long Japanese ryoba saw, like this: https://www.amazon.com/SUIZAN-Japanese-Ryoba-Double-Edge/dp/B01MU9XB1W
The blade is longer than an oscillating multi tool so you can easily cut a very straight line across the whole jamb and casing all at once. Just put a block of flooring under it as you cut as others described. I have no connection to that particular saw/company, just came to it's a very versatile tool and perfect for this.
For this project no.
I saw you mention having trouble with straight cuts.
Get a speed square and a pull cut saw. I prefer the Japanese style ones. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HGQXXWC?pd_rd_i=B07HGQXXWC&pf_rd_p=ad30dda5-7068-4151-a176-bb7863eee2e3&pf_rd_r=3F8ZXSJF540Q001HRQBK&pd_rd_wg=LoI6M&pd_rd_w=N40zF&pd_rd_r=f2602399-1948-408c-afbf-67f0571240fe
Use the speed square to make straight lines. You can use it to mark around the whole piece if you want. And make a bunch of other fancy marks.
I use it as a cutting guide with my circular saw. Ne er have to guess or "eyeball" it. The square keeps me straight.
As for the pull cut saw. You get more control cutting on the pull than on the push. European style saws are push cut. And I've never understood why.
Like, how much money? You can get a miter box with saw for $16. Then just curb-cycle it if you don't want to keep it.
I think he uses hardwoods the most. I ideally would like to get 3 pieces. So perhaps the Gyokucho 9 1/2" Ryoba, a 9" Shinto Rasp (as per u/NarcolepticTreesnake's recommendation), and ....something else...
Maybe a Dozuki like the Suizan you recommended? Although, I think I'd prefer the same brand for both? I think that would make a nicer gift? What about a Suizan 9.5 Ryoba flush cut instead of the Gyokucho? (https://www.amazon.com/SUIZAN-Japanese-Ryoba-Double-Edge/dp/B01MU9XB1W/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=suizan%2Bjapanese%2Bpull%2Bsaw&qid=1654524516&sprefix=suizan%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-5&th=1)
Second the Japanese Handsaw, easy to use even for a weakling like me
SUIZAN Japanese Pull Saw Hand Saw 9.5 Inch Ryoba Double Edge Flush Cut Saw Woodworking tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9XB1W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_PVNMQG43EJ6C6G21G4TT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I highly recommend a Japanese Ryoba saw if you want to make straight accurate cuts fast. It has 2 features that I really like,
1) it cuts on the pull stroke which I find to be much more natural than western push saws, this also allows the saw to be lighter
2) you're getting 2 saws for the price of one. One side has cross cut teeth which are beveled on alternating sides which makes it easy to cut fibers when you are cutting perpendicular to the grain and the other has rip teeth which are perfectly parallel which makes it easier to cut with the grain. Any saw will have one of these two patterns you can use them for rip cut or cross cuts but it will be better at one or the other. This saw means you don't have to choose. (There are some hybrid tooth saws out there but compromises are never as good as the real thing)
I have this this one which is $40 on Amazon and I love it
Not much of a carver, but I'll take a stab (haha knife...stab...knife....ok, I'll let myself out) since you're not getting any other replies.
I suspect your issue is that the knife kerf (thickness) is causing the cut out part to pry up too sharply, causing the tearout.
You could try scoring the wood along where you want the depth to be (trying to encourage it to tear out where you want it eventually.) Barring that, I'd use a band saw or a thin kerf saw (like a small Japanese pull saw like this: https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Mini-Dozuki-Panel-Saw/dp/B001G9ZEEQ) to bulk remove material, then carve the last bit of the way.
Olson Saw 35-241 Fine Kerf Saw 35-550 42 tpi with Aluminum Thin Slot Miter Box, Slot Size .014-Inch, Slot Angles 45, 60, 90, Cutting Depth 7/8-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BRBZYC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_J0FJV2EVTQF0VFD64YJ0
You can shave the head of your handle down to fit that. The lugs will make it a little trickier than a single bit without lugs but it can be done.
A 4-in-hand or farriers rasp (or a Shinto-brand rasp off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Shinto-HC-TL-SSR200-9-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0) would make short work of removing material to fit the haft to the head. Add some sandpaper, boiled linseed oil and you’re in business.
There are any number of videos available showing different techniques for fitting a haft to a head.
“An Axe To Grind” is a great one to start with. Fitting a double bit (in my opinion) is a much simpler prospect than a rockaway/Kentucky/Jersey-pattern single bit but yours can certainly be done.
Anyway, the video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=22tBYD-HMtA
Thanks! Will this one work? SUIZAN Japanese Ryoba Pull Saw 7 Inch Double Edge Hand Saw for Woodworking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HGQXXWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0G71JA2K6ZEYXGZT1Z87?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’ve been using Suizan saws for a few years. Super sharp. Great saws. I keep a folding version in my travel box but for around the shop you don’t need the folding feature. I did bend the blade on a dovetail saw pushing it too hard to cut something around my house. Not the saws fault. I was doing something I dumb. Only problem I’ve had so far. They also offer replacement blades (common for this type of saw).
This is on the smaller side but would likely fit the bill for your use case and not incredibly expensive. SUIZAN Japanese Ryoba Pull Saw 7 Inch Double Edge Hand Saw for Woodworking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HGQXXWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JS1Y86QWR3XG73PS0MCY
I’m not sure on local retailers in Canada, sorry I can’t be of more help there.
A Shinto-brand rasp from Amazon will make short work of reshaping a handle. They’re worth every penny in my opinion ($~30-$40 USD).
https://www.amazon.com/Shinto-HC-TL-SSR200-9-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0
This will help guide a straight cut and it's relatively inexpensive at $15, keep practicing and watching YouTube
CRAFTSMAN Mitre Saw, 12-Inch Saw & Clamping Box (CMHT20600) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RBMNCDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NNM8WPB697QCJSMQ50JE