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I advocate heavily against buying devices (light bulbs, garage door openers, etc) that are designed specifically to work with these smarthome services directly. Instead buy into an established framework like insteon or zwave and add on a hub that works with Alexa/Google/Apple or whatever else comes out next month.
That service or technology might change or go out of business. Garage door openers should last 20 years. What will happen to Alexa in that time frame? Will the API change breaking compatibility with older devices? Will Amazon start charging a subscription premium that you don't want to pay for any more?
Instead, buy a "smart" contact closure switch and figure out how to interface that with your smarthome platform of choice (homekit, alexa, googlehome, etc). A dry contact switch will simulate what happens when you press the garage door open button that's mounted on the wall and it can can be made to work with any type of smart home service.
Examples:
Take either of those technologies (zwave or insteon) and search for how to interface it with alexa. There are a large number of solutions out there depending on your needs. The good news is that you are investing in a platform that you can expand on that is not specifically tied to Amazon - you could easily control the same hardware with HomeKit or Google Home or whatever next month's flavor is.
Kill-o-watt is good, but you can monitor up to 16 circuits (comes with 8 sensors) at your electrical panel with this $110 setup: https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Monitor-Circuit-Electricity-Metering/dp/B08G37ML2R
Or a cheaper $20 single circuit alternative: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB9B2QL/
I think what you want is BOND.
You'll install a remote-control kit (sold separately, but some are linked in the above review article) and then use BOND to act as an extra, WiFi enabled remote control.
I hate being that guy but like... this is a sub for professional sysadmins, not for hobbyists to ask tech support questions.
Anyway, I think what you're looking for is a smart plug of some kind.
You probably saw the one without energy monitoring. This one has energy monitoring. And there are some other differences as well. I was also confused at first
There are simpler ways to accomplish this, but you can use a Sense Energy monitor along with Home Assistant's integration for it.
I was all set to buy a sense system, then I found this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CJGPHL9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think this might give you a much better insight into where you are consuming the most power.
You might want to start with one, and decide if a second one would be beneficial. It sounds like with the number of circuits you have a second one could be helpful.
I bought Bond to control my dumb ceiling fans but also, at least partially, for the promise that "sometime soon" it would be able to control my garage door. Two years later it still only controls my ceiling fans and I've given up. I now control my garage door with meross.
Bond works well enough but it's not as smart as buying a ceiling fan that is natively smart. Bond, for example, controls the lights on my fans but has a hard time keeping track of it's on/off state especially if you've made adjustments manually or with the OEM remote. It also isn't the strongest signal so if you have multiple ceiling fans spread over a large enough area you'll need multiple units.
Put a 120v relay inside the outlet box. Either leave the outlet, or remove it, cut the plug off, and hardwire the light directly to the relay inside the box.
I use the ones Insteon makes, because I run an Insteon network, but there are z-wave/zigbee ones out there.
Not vouching for this model or brand, but something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8
Or use a Shelly1, which is wifi/mqtt.
Related products on Amazon actually showed me exactly what I remember seeing before also, here's the link!
BOND | Smart Home Automation | Make Your Old Ceiling Fan or Fireplace Smart Through WiFi | Works with Alexa and Google Home | Remote Control with App | Compatible with iPhone or Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b9hECbG247AEX
if you can reach the plug easely, most smart plugs have buttons that can be controlled locally, something like this might work:
https://www.woot.com/offers/kasa-smart-plug-mini-with-energy-monitoring
Woot has these today for $9.99. Amazon is selling them for $23.46
I’ve seen this idea elsewhere. But get a smart plug, you can set a timer to switch the plug off/ hence kill power to the charger after a set amount of time. I did this last night on my second balance session. Set the timer for 11 hours 45 minutes. Worked flawlessly. I like this model Limited-time deal: Kasa Smart Plug HS103P4, Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Echo, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, 15 Amp, UL Certified,4-Pack , White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCNB2L3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MZ4Z5PWVB753VT8RTHN0
Why not get an Emporia Smart Home Energy monitor. I can measure consumption at each circuit real-time or over a period of time. I can also setup notification triggers as needed.
Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJGPHL9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TX3M6BED1038R6JT8RR8
Setup an Octopi! It is an absolute game changer when it comes to interfacing with your printer.
I recommend the "Bed Visualizer" plugin (Note you'll need a BLtouch or other automatic leveling probe for this to work), the "Dashboard" and "UI Customizer" plugins for a bit nicer of a ui, and buy yourself a TPLink Kasa KP115 smart plug off amazon and then download the "Tp-Link Smartplug" plugin. That'll allow you to monitor power usage and remotely turn your printer on and off. I love this because if I have a print ending in the middle of the night the printer will automatically turn off after the print is done. It also will automatically turn off your printer if you have a Thermal runaway situation.
Since you are running Octoprint anyway, you might be cheaper, and easier in the long run, to add a relay instead. I have bought the relay, but have not done the install yet, so this is theoretical knowledge.
A relay works by taking a small voltage (like the 5V that the Pi can generate right off the bus) and using it to allow a larger voltage to pass through. Think of it like a powered switch. There are three lugs on the relay. I will call them A B and C. If there is voltage coming from the Pi to the relay, then A and B will be connected. if there is not, then B and C will be connected. This lets you setup the relay in one of two ways: Normally powered or Normally Dead. If you cut the main 24V power line in the power supply, you can hook it up so that it is normally powered, unless the Pi shuts it off. This way you can still print (from SD Card) without the Pi on or connected. The Pi will keep it shut off when you are not using it. If the Pi fails, the printer will be on.
The second way (and the way I intend to do it) is to have the relay normally off, and the Pi will turn it on. This way, if the Pi is not working, neither will the printer.
The way this works, you use an addon in OctoPrint called "PSU Control" It will turn on the Power supply to the printer when you are ready to use it, and turn it off when you are done. Think of a desktop printer that goes into standby mode when not needed, but wakes when you are ready to use it.
Here is the relay I got: (out of stock right now, but gives you an idea)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRUAHLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Edit: minor word changes
OK got it. I hope you don't mind all my questions. Hopfully this is the last of it.
I have amazon prime so is this close enough to your link above: https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Module-Arduino-Official-Boards/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474495841&sr=8-1&keywords=5V+to+12v+relay
Also, what end would I connect the 5v to trigger the other end 12v?
Thanks again!
I use
Works perfect for fan and fan speed as well as lights.Works with window unit a/c's also that have remotes!
If your fan doesn't have a remote already you can install one....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073JQFDXG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1
This is supposed to work the best and can control fans in multiple rooms with one device, but it's $99.
I use the Bond Fan controller. It’s not HomeKit compatible yet but the company has said its coming soon. It works well with Alexa to control speed and lights. You would need to have remote control modules in each fan but they are reasonably priced ~$20 per fan.
I think you could do something like this thing, an in wall zwave switch, though I’m not sure of a current brand/model off hand given this one is discontinued.
Z-Wave In-Wall Fixture Module
https://www.homedepot.com/p/206590919
Edit:
Think this is what you need:
ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Relay, Hidden Smart Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights and Ceiling Fans, 120-277VAC, 10A, Neutral Wire Required, ZWN-RSM1-PLUS, Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_moQwFbH61P8RV
>What I'd like to do is a wireless trigger, basically cut the wire, put some kind of wireless relay in the middle and have that relay complete the circuit.
You should be able to do that with a zigbee/z-wave/wifi relay, like this https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Z-Wave-Multi-Input-Output-Contact/dp/B00B6RZ7MM
At 125A, you should be fine. I tried running my wall charger above 20A just to see if I could and it blew the main breaker. I can't upgrade my panel, so I have to be a bit more cautious.
If I can get away with a 50A service panel, you should be more than fine with a 125A panel.
Personal Opinion Here; Don't get carried away with how much the Wall charger can do, it's not designed to be a supercharger, and it does not need to be :-).
Another Side Note; If you have a Sense power monitor, you can watch how much power things are taking, and adjust accordingly. For me, I have to be sure I don't exceed around 10,000 watts.
Your power company provided an estimate for what the electricity could have been used for. Your power company just knows how much you use but not what you got connected and how much power each device uses.
The best you can do is listen to what is running more (a/c or fridge) to find out what is broke. One of them are the most likely cause. If you can't figure out by that what it is then you might need to measure what is using your power. Products like the Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G37ML2R/) can tell what electrical circuit is using how much power (might need an electrician to install).
If your fan has a remote control, you can use something like the Bond controller for automation.
Interesting, I thought last I looked their maximum load was to low for this, but for example this Kasa KP115 says maximum load 1.8kw. So a PC with a 1000 watt PSU is 800 watt below the maximum load of the smart plug.
If you really want to know, look into something like this power monitoring system.
He might want to invest in something like this. I installed one on my service panel and it’s pretty accurate and has helped to find a lot of parasitic loads that have ended up saving enough to pay for itself.
Have you looked at a solution like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJGPHL9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_701HMWKQJ92YPAZQGRYR
I have been looking at getting one. It goes in your circuit breaker box and will monitor your homes entire power usage
Does your fan have a remote control?
If so, you can use this device to control the fan, and replace the bulbs with smart bulbs. Then you can leave the switch on permanently and control the devices separately.
This is the Kasa plug you want to use for IFTTT integration:
You install it in your panel and you get monitoring of total and 8 ($110) or 16 ($150) individual circuits. I've had one for a few years now and it works great.
Double Discount Best Seller
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Kasa Smart Plug HS103P4, Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Echo, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, 15 Amp, UL Certified, 4-Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RCNB2L3?ascsubtag=b2945112ab1b11ec989ae645f6083ee10INT&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=an0e75-20&linkId=b5504f85f3a4c5970014789ab924860d&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
Put the power surge inside a box to make it look better. I would also advise on connecting the plant lights to a wifi enabled connector plug. I do this and it automatically turns them on and off at set intervals, just make sure the physical switch is on.
I agree on placing the plant stand against the cinderblock, moving the lizard next to it, then moving tv to lizard side.
Yeah. https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Monitor-Circuit-Electricity-Metering/dp/B08CJGPHL9/
A mere $150 for a per circuit monitor.
Consider getting something like Limited-time deal: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K6PHJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_dl_F7RC8558H1GK01Q8AS8S
That might figure out what's burning so much energy.
We were turning on a pair of space heaters and went from 1100 kwh in October to 2200 in February.
Looking at home efficiency improvements, a wood burning fireplace, and solar this year.
There are some pretty cool techie ways to go about this, such as this product. I really want to get one, but can't justify it at the moment. Note that you will have to do a bit of research to make sure you have all the right bits, and you may well need to consider an electrician, depending on your experience.
This is the energy monitor that I use, you may want to hire someone to install it but it is not very hard to do. You can watch the energy use on a cellphone app or Window computer, I have the optional $8 outlets that not only monitor energy but also allow on/off operation of lights etc. from your phone.
I can monitor 8 circuits 120 or 240, down to the second and up to a year - very easy to see what things cost as you just enter your electric rate and billing cycle and then it charts it for you for.
https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Energy-Monitor-Electricity-Conserve/dp/B08G37ML2R?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Monitor-Circuit-Electricity-Metering/dp/B08CJGPHL9/
Looks like there's plenty of options that hook up to the individual circuits. Holy cross college what a pain in the duck to shoehorn those things in inside the breaker panel. Ain't no way around it though.
What's your heat system? Hot water? Air conditioning? Electric car?
Lighting is 99% not the big power consumer you're looking for.
Be aware that you can use a power monitor/switch like those from Kasa or from Shelly to verify power consumption yourself.
Kasa is more user friendly: Kasa Smart Plug Mini with Energy Monitoring, Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT, Wi-Fi Simple Setup, No Hub Required (KP115), White – A Certified for Humans Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LN3C7WK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_K0YZJ84CNGJX24GEJBVF
The Shelly 2.5 can be installed behind the receptacle to control and monitor power with a clean look: Shelly 2.5 Double Relay Switch and Roller Shutter WiFi Open Source Wireless Home Automation Dual Power Metering iOS Android Application (1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z623J8Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VQY2WP4V0SJW0YS9VWWT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Both are controlled with their respective vendors applications and both integrate very well with the home automation system Home Assistant. For more energy monitoring, you can check Shelly EM or Iotawatt. I use Iotawatt together with Home Assistant monitor all my home energy consumption. But Iotawatt works via the web browser. It doesn't have an app.
In my experience, if you're going with the plug on a timer instead of a smart bulb, the WiFi variety with an app is significantly easier to use and more reliable than that manual one they linked. I've used these Kasa ones with great success.
I have this. You clamp it on the circuits in your panel and everything works off of your home WiFi and there's a nice app. Since your charger is 240vac, you clamp one of those current sensors on one of the lines and multiply it by 2 in the app. It works really well, I've been enjoying mine.
If you really wanted to go to town on this there are solutions which use CT clamps to monitor multiple circuits and install in your panel. E.g., https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Monitor-Circuit-Electricity-Metering/dp/B08CJGPHL9/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B08CJGPHL9&psc=1
As an aside, if you're not too far from your panel and there are spare breaker slots you should really speak to an electrician about getting a 240v socket and/or level 2 charger installed. If it's close by the cost won't be too much and you'll be able to charge much quicker and future proof in case you switch to an EV with a much bigger battery in the future. They're also safer for pulling a continuous heavy load. Do you know if that socket is on it's own circuit or if it's shared? If not, be careful introducing additional loads while your car is charging.
You need to find a clamp meter that has a min/max function and that allows you to disable the auto off function if it turns off on its own. You might end up spending just as much or more on a multimeter as you would a simple Emporia Vue energy monitoring system.
This sort of system. It monitors your usage on each breaker so you know what is using power
Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08CJGPHL9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_F8DACZA17GFY6SKXSZ6Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The small amount of water dripping from your hands or towel will be negligible. I have a heated towel rack with power behind the rack. You might want to put a smart switch inline and just voice control the light with Alexa or Google.
Amazon is one of earth's largest corporations and gets scrutiny from name-brand newspapers -- if you embarrass Amazon, most newspapers will pick up the story. So Amazon spends money on security.
You want to find the cheapest knock-off IoT device you can, like a smart plug, and see if you can identify a failure mode like "I can make the lights flicker fast enough to short the bulb / blow the breaker". Then find a way to get control of the plug from within its own LAN.
A clip on multi-meter won't work unless you can access the individual wires inside the cable. Clipping it around the whole cable will give you no reading or an very inaccurate reading because it can only measure uni-directional current flow but clipping around all the wires has a bi-directional current flow.
If it is a dedicated circuit and have access to the electrical panel you can put in a monitoring system like THIS.
Otherwise getting a smart EVSE that has built in monitoring and management would be the next route but that would be much more expensive.
I purchased this 4‐pack of smart receptacles for $26: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCNB2L3/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_dl_H5NG1T6H14H7Q1AP9M7J
I connected it to my Alexa and just use voice commands to turn on and off. You can also use their app if you don't have Amazon smart speaker. I have 3 base stations, and I use the fourth plug to power the Vajro headset. This way I can turn it all on as a group.
I would buy a system to install and find out how much load you use typically. Sense or Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering would accurately tell you how much power you need. And then it will help you monitor your usage to save power consumption.
Install this first and see what a month looks like.
I use this. Sense Energy Monitor – Track Electricity Usage in Real Time and Save Money – Meets Rigorous ETL/Intertek Safety Standards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K6PHJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_KY62DGWNWGN851KNYNHY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Pick up one of these (or something similar): https://www.amazon.ca/Emporia-Monitor-Circuit-Electricity-Metering/dp/B08G37ML2R/
If you're going to install yourself, switch off the breaker before attaching the CT. If you know a electrician you can call a favor in from that's the way to go.
Move the CTs around circuit-to-circuit (or get the larger package), you should be able to track down the power guzzler.
Something like this Emporia Smart Home Energy could do it, but it's not a cheap device.
You can set IFTTT triggers for when excess energy is being generated or not, but you would want to filter that information so you only triggered your rigs on and off on something like 15 minute windows.
I honestly don't know how bad thermal cycles are for GPUs, but on my main machine I will start and stop pretty heavy duty gaming sessions for 20-30 minutes several times in a day without much thought.
You and OP /u/auntielayla should consider getting a Sense energy monitor installed. It tells you exactly how much electricity each of your appliances uses at every second of the day so you can figure out what's draining electricity (or use the data as evidence to dispute with ConEdison)
https://www.amazon.com/Sense-Energy-Monitor-Electricity-Usage/dp/B075K6PHJ9
I usually don't even have the lights on? I have power saving LED bulbs.
The only thing I can think is my electric golf cart, but I've had that for over a year and it's never been this high. I'm going to plug in one of those "kill-a-watt" things on it to monitor for a while.
I was going to install one of these and see if I could monitor more closely:
https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Monitor-Circuit-Electricity-Metering/dp/B08CJGPHL9
I have this home energy monitor installed in my panel, its a bit overkill but I like being able to see the consumption of my entire house. Easy to install if you are comfortable or you can get your electrician to install it at the same time as your new 50a circuit.
https://www.amazon.ca/Emporia-Vue-Management-Breaker-Version/dp/B08CJGPHL9?th=1&psc=1
Lol what I meant is that rebooting may not solve your offline issue but there is a fix to rebooting remotely if you want to
Its not just an app - system linked below
I have the 8 circuit model, cost about $110. I monitor my 3 mini-split systems, the lowest power draw on standby is 30 watts for a 12,000 btu unit. which is negligible.
Not only can this monitor 8 separate circuits but also the main, you can view your monthly electric usage to date at anytime during the month withing 1 second of actual use, as it keeps a running total if you enter your electrical rate.
Here is the one I have;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G37ML2R/ref=dp\_iou\_view\_item?ie=UTF8&th=1
You're most likely ignoring lots of other things. Electricity consumption isn't usually just a few large things it's just everything added together. Like your fridge might only be like 4% of your monthly usage.
Even in an apartment, I think you can hook one of these up:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G37ML2R/
It'll more closely monitor your usage at the circuit breaker level.
If that ends up way off, you've got an issue.
This worked for me. It’s mimics the remote.
BOND | Add Wifi to Ceiling Fan, Fireplace or Somfy shades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CYNRVCHA61NG723CDP1H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, I use HA too. I looked at the Aeotec, but I was also looking at this which has 16 clamps to monitor each circuit separately. But I’m not sure if I need all that data, would be nice to have though. I also prefer z wave, but I haven’t been able to find something like the emporia but with z wave.
I use these for my lights. In the app, you can setup a schedule to turn on and off your lights. They frequently go on sale, I think I got this four pack for around 20-25 last time it was on sale.
Kasa Smart Plug HS103P4, Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Echo, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, 15 Amp, UL Certified, 4-Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCNB2L3/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_62GCBFXR2EB4G3NYBBQ4
I'm using this Zooz Zwave plug for this application, but it's not really inexpensive. Kasa has a Wi-Fi plug that's a bit less expensive. I'm sure there are other option that I'm not familiar with.
That’s exactly right! The room could have multiple outlets all sharing a single circuit back to the panel. This is why such smart devices that measure energy consumption right at the panel for each circuit Is so helpful. Could save you lots of headaches and even your life!
Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJGPHL9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FMQKQ0AWPHXRSGBNBCZX
Υπάρχουν διάφορα συστήματα αλλά είναι κάτι αρκετά εξειδικευμένο. Πρέπει να ρωτήσεις σε καταστήματα με ηλεκτρολογικά για να βρεις άνθρωπο που θα στο περάσει κιόλας και σίγουρα θα κοστίσει.
Δες πχ κάτι τέτοιο ή κάτι τέτοιο
What's the miner and what's your electric rate? You can just do the math.
I use this to monitor all my miners at the panel:
Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJGPHL9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YT3C0CPAC94S9WJWSWTJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Relay - ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Relay, Hidden Smart Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights and Ceiling Fans, 120-277VAC, 10A, Neutral Wire Required, ZWN-RSM1-PLUS, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FEY7NWHQTA0N7RZFJBVD
My warmer has a small box 3x1.5” or so. Where the electrical comes in and the switch is housed.
I put mine in there
Sure! They’re wifi plugs you can turn power on and off to remotely from your mobile device. I’ll post the link to the one I got:
Kasa Smart Plug by TP-Link, Smart... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079B7SHD8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Take a look at the Bond Bridge. I use one with my HB fans to control them from Alexa and HA system. If you don't want to do the voice thing their app works great too.
If there is no neutral in the light switch you can use a module like this one in the ceiling fixture or box.
The switch leg hooks from hot to Aux and the device will toggle on and off whenever the manual switch changes state. (thus allowing a zwave command to turn it on and off without preventing the switch from being able to turn it on or off later) I have used them where I had some 3 way switches and it works fine. You can use the old manual toggle but you will have to ignore the on off label if you do or you could just use a 3-way switch but only wire one of the travelers.
That sucks for no NG..
What about the Emporia, that is the one I am looking at.. I am not sure if HA can pull data but it has a notification feature built into it...
So far i've navigated the IOT waters well. everything still works....
but if my light bulbs stop working that's a few dollar fix. a main panel? I struggle to trust it enough.
When I build i plan to put in some gutter above the main panel for CT monitoring. keep the mess outta the panel. using something like: https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Monitor-Circuit-Electricity-Metering/dp/B08CJGPHL9
then if it breaks who gives a shit.
I've heard of this product. no personal experience but i think it will give you the peace of mind you need at the end of the day. https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Monitor-Circuit-Electricity-Metering/dp/B08G37ML2R/
my personal experience has been its easy for all 4 ac units to be on, pool pump on, wife has stove going and dryer. but thats my household. yours may be different on how things are.
Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJGPHL9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_B2CJG2FA40J0KA5XX4C7
I wasn’t referring to the energy cost of monitoring, simply the cost of “tools” (I.e. the price of outlets with built in monitoring).
Something like the Emporia system with 16 channels @ $150 that goes in the panel may suit your needs. I have no idea if this is good or not
You got me, I had to go look up bond bridge.
https://www.amazon.com/Automation-Ceiling-Fireplace-through-Control/dp/B071GVGVVH
Bonjour a tous,
Aujourd'hui je viens vers pour avoir des conseils sur le suivi de sa consomation electrique.
J'ai un compteur electrique Linky, pouvons nous lire les donnes du compteur comme la consomation en temps reel?
Aussi, je voudrais savoir, si on peut part fusible (qui sont decouper par fonction ou piece sur le tableau), brancher un truc comme ca: Lien 1 ou des genre de clamps qu'on met sur chaque fusible et qui monitore l'activiter electrique.
J'aimerais eviter de brancher des trucs sur mes prises, car par exemple j'aimerais monitorer la consomation de la clim.
Merci beaucoup
I use the electrical plug “HS103” that comes with an App called “Kasa” hS103 I manually set a timer so it goes off at 10pm and comes on at 9am.
> Can't set base stations to auto-suspend when SteamVR exits, so have to unplug/replug them manually every time (or deal with their annoying noise).
I use smart outlets for this. You can just yell at you Siri/google/Alexa to turn them on :). Cheap for a set of 4: Limited-time deal: Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Works with Alexa, Echo, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, 15 Amp, UL Certified, 4-Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCNB2L3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_ZPVJ73V6TDNWJ65CKK1V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These are all great solutions. I use something less involved than tailwind, probably a competitor to shelly. But it ties into my smart home (HomeSeer) so I can control/manage my garage door from anywhere via my phone. You can tie in at the opener, or at the motor itself which is what you are showing in your picture. It is dry contact based like Shelly.
Note that you need a smart home to make this approach work. It is not a 'freestanding' product like tailwind.
That smart plug is a must! I love the auto-off, especially when a print finishes in the early hours of the morning. It's piece of mind. I have the pi powered seperatley, so that I'm not shutting it off other plugin allows my to use OctoPrint to turn the printer on remotely too)
This is the plug I use: Kasa Smart Plug by TP-Link... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B079B7SHD8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use this one as well, same functionality:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LN3C7WK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But the problem is that the internal consumption of the AC adapter is included in the measurement, it is not as clean as connected directly to the USB-C port on the laptop.
Not exactly the same situation with me however I installed five remote-controlled fans in my 1500sf house and home automation being an afterthought, purchased a IR/RF blaster
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071GVGVVH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Somehow it manages to go through walls and controls all 5 fans, so I presume my fans use radio signals. just a suggestion for anyone coming across this with my situation (already have remote control fans installed) and looking for an alternative.
Never used one, but there's a product called Sense you can install in the panel to monitor energy usage. As far as I know, it can do a pretty decent job of identifying energy hogs. I'm sure there are other similar products you could use as well.
Plug HS103P4, Smart Home Wi-Fi Outlet Compatible with Alexa, Echo, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, 15 Amp, UL Certified,4-Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCNB2L3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_V0G9RC4ATBNDZQF5D4V1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the type plug you need...it will connect to your wi-fi through the SmartHome app, which you can use to turn them on/off. You can use your phone entirely (including the Amazon Alexa app) or you can get an Amazon Alexa/Google Home device and it will allow you to control things via voice. (So will the Alexa app on your phone, but not as easily/quickly as speaking directly to a voice-ready device.)
Happy to answer anything else if you need. Cheers. Let me know how it works for you!
https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Wi-Fi-Plug-TP-Link/dp/B079B7SHD8/
$8 if you remember to click the 20% off coupon. Don’t upgrade the firmware. Works great with the Octoprint TP-Link plugins. No need to make a stupid cloud account, just follow the instructions on their website for local network only, unless you are the trusting sort, and actually want to control the thing away from home. Keep in mind that most of the “fancier” more expensive models require the cloud account BS. Stick with tried and true cheap units like these. They work great.
Or you can install something like this in your electrical box .
Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJGPHL9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XT14NKDX8R0AYNN9V0NQ
It will give you all in (from grid , from solar ) and all usage so you can find what is using most energy and adjust it accordingly
A lot of us use wifi smart plugs. They're less expensive, are easier to program and will do what you want.
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Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CJGPHL9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HKCHGAR8F6ZN3R6DGWWT
These have been rock solid for motoring use at the panel they also make a smart plug that can measure use and can be exported to csv. emporia energy!
If I were going to do this I would probably add another float switch for the pi at a higher level, so it doesn't time out and turn off if the sump is actually full.
You could also use that higher switch to turn it back on when the sump fills up a bit more. Sounds like a fun little project.
To run your load on and off, you'll just need a relay that uses 5v to switch, and is capable of switching 120VAC. For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FV2AF1D81T7FSHBHSTB9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm looking at smart outlets at the moment with energy monitoring and wondering whether those would work. Here's an example of one:
I find it hard to believe that a Kasa outlet would be great yet a Kasa plug-in switch would be flawed. This Kasa plug-in actually has a higher percentage of 4-star reviews, plus is much lower cost (4 for only $25):
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Kasa-Smart-Wifi-Plug/dp/B07RCNB2L3
There is a guy called SpaceGoats on YouTube, he has videos on making 120 & 240 volt meters.
But if you need something bigger, you could have an electrician install a sub panel, and you can purchase a panel meter such as the Sense Energy Monitor.
I installed an Emporia Energy Vue 2 for monitoring. It's not specifically for solar, rather it lets you see real-time usage of up to 16 circuits (breakers) as well as total power being used.
I just used one of its channels for my solar and the other 15 for all large loads.
Works great and was easy to install. $150
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CJGPHL9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1