I got a temperature regulator and a window fan. Now its comfortable in my room in the winter.
I have this GoControl GC-TBZ48 thermostat that is Z-Wave, so it's not internet connected at all. It's only controlled via Home Assistant via the Z-Wave USB controller in my server. It's exposed to Google Assistant, so I can control it with my Google Home devices and my phone as well.
Yep, that's the heater! Has been working for half a year now perfectly.
Here's the temperature controller I use with it.
For the tubs, HEREis the exact tub I use. They're way better than shoeboxes because they're taller, and $1 each.
They pair perfectly with the associated IKEA lid which is $0.60, and CLEAR! why doesn't anyone make clear lids for tubs?
I would highly recommend these tubs for 1-2 bags of Uncle Bens. They will be the official recommended tubs when I post my official write-up to this subreddit.
we had the same issue when we installed our nest, what we ended up doing was buying a wire kit that gives you a outlet plug and a wire that you put into the c wire spot. you could have a hvac guy come and install a c wire permanently but we moved into an apartment so i didnt want to pay to do something that i wouldnt get use of 5 years from now.
Cable kit on amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MT5VWQN/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ecobee 3 w/ room sensor on sale on their site for 199. 11/18 - 11/28.
Amazon currently is showing the same price.
Edit: added links
>As soon as I saw her leave, I remotely turned off the one unit that I could. Obviously, I did not enter the house to turn the other one off.
Better would have been: message her that she left the A/C on and the windows open. Send pictures/videos. Ask her if she wants the A/C turned off or the windows shut, then pick one if she doesn't. Let her pretend forgetfulness, even though she did it on purpose; you get the same result with a friendlier conversation.
>She did however turn the AC back on immediately when it turned itself off. Every time she did, I got an error message. I looked out my window and heard the unit turn off, then turn back on, turn off, and turn on. This happened about ten times.
She probably thought you were remotely turning off the A/C every time in a childish little tug-of-war. The heat thing the next day was payback.
>I do have it in the rules that if AC is on, windows are to be closed, but no one ever reads the rules.
It's just plain common sense not to run A/C or heat when the windows are open, but we all know common sense isn't all that common. You can put a sign next to the A/C controls.
Smart thermostats can be set to require a passcode, but some non-smart thermostats can too. If you have an old analog thermostat, look at a thermostat lock box (or build your own if you're handy).
Or you can get a tamper-proof thermostat that won't let you set the heat above 72F or the cooling below 72F (there's another model with 76F/76F). Of course for a little more you can just get an actual smart thermostat where you can lock the keypad.
I'm in the process of shopping around to upgrade my manual thermostats for my baseboard heaters to digital... 2 questions
Has anyone here looked into/bought and installed the Mysa (or any other smart thermostat) for baseboard heaters? Wondering if it's any good...
My mom was telling me that in LA, the LADWP was giving rebates for individuals putting in smart thermostats. Does Seattle City Light have a similar program?
If you have zwave, I use these...
I run a this zwave hat on a pi4 that runs hassos.
Buy the Ecobee. Amazon has them on sale for $199.
I built my own proofing box with a normal desk lamp (use a regular light bulb, not a fluorescent), a cardboard box, a power strip, and this cool programmable thermostat (I got it on Amazon for about $35)
You program the thermostat to the temperature you want, and plug the lamp into the outlet on the front. When the temperature dips below your target, it provides electricity to the lamp. The bulb heats the air up until it gets to your target, then shuts off the lamp. It maintains the temp this way for as long as you want!
Have 2 of these in my home for 2+ years and love them. Wifi control in case you forget to turn it off when you're away, web interface and smartphone app to program it from rather than doing it at the head unit, and can switch back and forth from heat and AC without issue.
I would get the smartthings hub. Very good!
Nest smoke/monoxide detector is very good. Also get a zwave thermostat and pair it with a motion detector. I have it so if it doesn't detect motion for 2 hours then it decreases the temperature. This will save on power.
Good job on getting the schlage lock. I have 3! Very good!
GoControl Thermostat, Z-Wave, Battery-Powered, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZIRV40K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_co30ybGWFTN0Q
From what I've heard, the NEST or Ecobee are great if you have a varying schedule (i.e. work from home some days, or have a stay at home parent who runs a lot of errands during the day).
If you have a predictable schedule, but still want control to change things while you're out or monitor from vacation, I always recommend going with something like this wifi thermostat for less than half the price.
Brand new (still in the shrink wrap!) Ecobee 3 thermostat with remote temperature sensor. It's this one.
I used to have a Linear/GoControl TBZ48A that I liked. It helped extend my zwave signal towards my front door so my lock could contact the hub. It's not pretty but it was cheap, zwave, and it worked. The newer ones don't look so bad though:
GoControl Thermostat, Z-Wave, Battery-Powered, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZIRV40K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Dua1zb552TY7S
If you already have smartthings, buy a "dumb" z-wave thermostat. It will integrate better with smartthings.
I had a Nest in my previous home and it was a PITA when combined with smartthings, so I bought a basic z-wave thermostat and it's a lot easier to manage.
Most of my automation relies on the smart app "routine director" which uses presence and time to switch between combinations of home/away and day/night. Away routines set temp higher/lower depending on season relative to being home.
Well I bought two of the GoControl thermostats for my house and have been extremely satisfied. They use zwave - no wifi, no servers you have to go through... just pair it with your zwave hub and you’re good to go.
The selling point of those smart thermostats, like Ecobee and Nest, is all the control that you can do from your phone. But if you have home assistant, none of that is needed because home assistant is the “brain” that allows access to all that. So the simpler the thermostat, the better, in my opinion.
I have the GC-TBZ48. It's unfortunately jumped in price since I bought it for $80, now $145.
But it's been rock solid for a year. It's integrated into Home Assistant and I use Node Red for automation to control temperatures.
I saw someone using this on a sub and it seemed to be affordable and effective.
Yeah this is my first try with fungus but we are running 20 shoeboxes, using substrate that’s heavy manure, and also running a spare 150w led 12/12 in the top of the tent (and clear lids). Hoping we got it right and soon I have the all the medicine needed for the summer at minimum 🙏
To be fair, our relatively old-school thermostat also allowed us to set schedules.
It looked like this, though it didn't have Wi-Fi connectivity:
This heater and a temperature regulator is what I use and it works great. If you don't want to spend money try putting them higher up, heat rises. You can use your hand to feel the difference in temp between the air on the floor compared to the air under the ceiling
You can get a nice temperature controller for ~$30 off Amazon - Set your desired temp range, plug space heater into the controller, and wallah! I’m currently using two of these models; one for colonizing, another for fruiting, and they’ve worked great
I just bought the new nest thermostat. I have a 4-wire setup (Y, W, G, R), but my C wire is not attached to the HVAC.
I ended up purchasing a C Wire Adapter (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MT5VWQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). The adapter says to put one end in the C and the other end in the RC, but the Nest thermostat doesn't have a RC. Some of the product reviewers for the adapter are claiming to put the other end in the R slot with the red wire.
Is it dangerous for the Nest to have the R wire and one end of the adapter wire both go into the R slot?
Z-Wave would probably be the best bet. I was thinking about getting one of these
Don't need a super fancy one since HA will control all the logic
R is usually your power from the heat/AC to the thermostat.
W is usually your heat return to close the circuit for heat. No idea why you'd have 2 to this terminal.
G is usually fan for the air handler.
C is usually common wire.
Y is usually your cool return to trigger AC on.
O would be your heat pump.
What is the current model thermostat?
Was the AC unit replaced with a like sized unit?
Xposting to /r/HVAC may be a good idea, they will know more about this stuff than we will, though it may take longer to get an answer.
I have two of these units in my house and have had no issues at all with them in 2 years. Being able to adjust temperature remotely while coming home from vacation is a wonderful thing as opposed to having a hot/cold house, and email alerts to any issues is a great benefit as well.
Just throwing it out there that relocating the thermostat or adding a remote sensor won't fix your underlying problem of a drafty apartment. All this will do will change the "set" temperature of the thermostat to keep the apartment at a comfortable temperature.
A cheap solution? Buy a cheap thermometer and place it in an area you want to be comfortable. Note the set temperature of your thermostat to keep it at this temperature and adjust accordingly.
As /u/niceflipflop stated, your cheapest option for what you're describing will be $240+.
What you probably need is common, a (C) wire. It carries current to power your thermostat.
Old style thermostats just serve as a on/off switch, and require no power themselves, so the two wire approach works fine. You can buy a battery powered smart thermostat, like this go control model. If you're using an ecobee or nest, they don't have batteries, so they need the C wire to power themselves.
You'll need to pull a new thermostat wire with at least 3 wires, and find a source for 24v from your furnace. My furnace brand had an online PDF specifically instructing people where to get 24v for hooking up smart thermostats. Try googling your furnace or furnace controller brand and seeing where you can get 24v from.
I'm currently looking other options. Looking at Amazon for line volt compatible thermostats.
Here's a smart one: https://www.amazon.com/STZW402WB-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS/ but it requires SmartThings or Zwave.
Honeywell also makes something but requires Redlink (whatever that is.) I may just get a regular non-smart programable thermostat, which would be better than what I currently have.
Here's a list of the top (non-smart) programmable thermostats for line voltage therms:
This is the nice one but might be expensive if you have a lot of zones
honewell makes a system that you install a wireless device on all the heaters and you can control all the zones with your phone or central thermostat but I can't find it now.
I noticed my growth really speed up Once I got my temps to A stable 75 to 80°F, I use a small grow tent with one of these hooked to a 500w amazon basics space heater. It was recommended by another user but I had to modify the placement of the temperature shutoff sensor inside the heater. It would shut off every 5 min and not turn back on. But once I moved the sensor it works perfectly.
I ended up going with this one: Willhi ETC
Very affordable digital plug and play option.
You can cheat. I had to get plug in power supplies for power to the t-stat separately from my two wire oil fueled boiler. I have an old (130ish) house that is a hack job already, so I just added to it a bit.
Replaced existing 2 wire t-stat cable with modern 4 wire stuff from wall locations to boiler. Spliced red/white pairs into appropriate lines in the new 4 cables, and bought a couple of dc power supplies which I spliced into the other pairs in the new 4 wire cables. Been working fine for over a year now.
Here’s a similar power supply. I also use one of these for the Wyze doorbell.
24 Volt Transformer, C Wire Adapter Thermostats, Compatible with Ecobee, Nest and Honeywell Smart WiFi Thermostat, Ring Nest Hello Skybell August Doorbell (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MT5VWQN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B6K9VVMZMSTBEG16JHVW
Great question. I'm completely satisfied with my Z-Wave GoControl GC-TBZ48 (often under $70 on eBay). The similar Radio Thermostat CT101 is $58 on Amazon. These have simple manual control front panel interfaces (up/down one degree per press) and simple Z-Wave control. My SmartThings controller handles time/day/presence automation of thermostat control, and enables voice control through Google Assistant.
For my use cases I can't see any advantage with a more expensive smarter thermostat like Nest or Ecobee. SmartThing's presence control is much more useful than Nest's motion detection - i.e. it can turn on the heat when I'm within a mile of home, and set different temperatures depending on who's home :-D
Definitely looks like mains lines, probably for something like baseboard heat if I were to guess. You'd have to use something like this if that's the case:
Mysa Smart Thermostat for Electric Baseboard Heater | Pairs on Wifi, Control from Smartphone or Tablet, Scheduling and Geofencing, Easy Connecting and Setup
The one that’s tagged in the pinned tek. But I’m just using it to see the temp, I have no heat control plugged to it, just using room temperature
WILLHI WH1436A 10A Temperature Controller 110V Digital Thermostat Switch Sous Vide Controller NTC 10K Sensor Improved Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_M8M08692RM3KR0YFMBPS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> Could I perhaps put a case or something around the thermostat?
Yup. There are thermostat covers available that permit air-flow. In my experience, this is sufficient to prevent thermostats coming on due to negative pressure even when there isn't heated make-up air. Here's an example:
Yeah they can them 'line voltage' or 'high voltage' thermostats. Looks like there's a few out there now but it's really dependent on the type of heat you have.
Take a look at this MySa link, 4th picture looks pretty much identical to what you showed us, got neutral and ground. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VBP42M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_GBGDDNQEQX37PW82441G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I know absolutely nothing about them but it's nice to see someone is trying to fill that niche!
My "recipe" for this build:
I used the WILLHI Temperature Controller (seen on top). The 25 Watt bulb in th le bottom plugs into it. I set custom ranges on the controller to keep the temperature where I want to for my starter and dough proofing.
The cooler is a spare one I had but it is a 60 quart cooler.
Link to the controller below!
WILLHI WH1436A 10A Temperature Controller 110V Digital Thermostat Switch Sous Vide Controller NTC 10K Sensor Improved Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NRPJ993F380G55YPZM11?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Haha yes. I got the WILLHI Temperature Controller and used a 25 Watt bulb for the heat source
Someone else also mentioned the CT80 which would also work.
I used this for a long time before going to ecobee. it has a built-in web server with a REST interface so it's super easy to program. Not the prettiest, but was rock solid for 4 years.
Others have mentioned RadioThermostat, I have the CT50 and it works really well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQS35XA - I have the wifi module, but they have a Z-Wave module too. The only issue I have is it makes an ad-hoc network for setup that Android doesn't see, so I configured it with my laptop.
I just added the RadioThermostat integration in HA and it works fine. I put it on my non-internet IOT network.
You'd have to look up the instructions for your specific smart thermostat. For our Ecobee we had R and W wires in the wall going to our boiler, and then connected RC and C to the wall plug.
We purchased this one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MT5VWQN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details)
I just got this 2 months ago. It weeks great. Only 2 wires like you have. Stelpro Z-Wave Plus KI STZW402WB+ Thermostat (White) for Electric Baseboards and Convectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYL1OAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XVVNWT5T5ZB5B1HJY2SW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the help. I've looked into multi-zone heat pumps like a mini soy, but they're prohibitively expensive.
It will probably just be easier to have a thermostat for the main shop and a thermostat for the office heater (this is the one I found: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VBP42M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2Q0YW826MBQX34CT5MV9) The AC I have picked out is wi-fi enabled and can be controlled with LG ThinQ, so I imagine I could controll all of this from a home assistant dashboard.
Are you talking about something like this?
Nope I got this recommended thermostat with it: WILLHI WH1436A 10A Temperature Controller 110V Digital Thermostat Switch Sous Vide Controller NTC 10K Sensor Improved Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CV4GXNKRVYCWFRFAZ87Q
Thinking this one would do the trick. Mysa Smart Thermostat for Electric Baseboard Heaters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VBP42M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YR8QPVXD9T1VNP67WY7H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Looks very similar to the gocontrol zwave thermostat that I have. Fan and mode are switched and the buttons aren't filled in, but maybe they make another version?
GoControl Z-Wave Battery-Powered Smart Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZIRV40K/
so the best way to do this would be to use something that actually forces the heater back on after it goes below the target heat as well. i just use the one that is recommended in the UB guide:
here is the temp controller
here is the heater UB guide recommends
using this little duo keeps everything at a stable temp. the temp controller allows you to set the heater to turn off at a certain temp, and turn back on at a certain temp. i basically set mine in the difference of .5 of a degree. so i usually keep it at like 75.5 to turn off, then turn back on once it drops to 75 degrees.
Install a Thermostat lockbox. only $15
Maybe get written authorization from the leaseholder, when your roommate inevitably throws a fit. "It was out of my control, take it up with [leaseholder]"
I use a digital programmable thermostat to automatically change it. This is the thermostat I use
The thermostat can also be adjusted temporarily if needed.
I put mine in a small room with a window (it's really small) and set a mini space heater in there with a temperature regulator (like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V4TJR00?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details). Today is my first day using it, and it seems to be going well? I have Reishi and Lion's Mane in there.
You can use one of these with a small ceramic heater, use the low setting or keep it at 1000 watts or less. I do this for a bedroom that has 3 exterior walls and gets a bit chilly, works great. It worked great when the thermostat on my deep freeze went bad last summer too.
I use a 3rd gen nest with two wire heat only steam radiators.
Without a c wire is possible if your thermostat gets enough power. Mine doesn't, it gets like 3.6-3.8 which eventually causes the battery to die and wifi to drop etc..
The only solution at that point is to take it off the base and plug it into a wall outlet to charge it. It isn't worth doing.
I ended up buying a c wire adapter for a wall outlet and it solved my problem entirely.
This is the one I purchased.
24 Volt Transformer, C Wire Adapter Thermostats, Compatible with Ecobee, Nest and Honeywell Smart WiFi Thermostat, Ring Nest Hello Skybell August Doorbell (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MT5VWQN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_KAGAJJ4EA2SB5G6W6JG7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hi there. I bought a Nest Thermostat. I only have a furnace in my home and have an R and W. I understand that a C wire is highly recommended and so I bought this C wire adapter. I believe one wire goes in C on the thermostat, but where does the other one go? I read that it also goes in R. Can someone help me?
The details really depends on your setup like if you have a boiler, furnace, AC, or electric baseboards so there is no one stop solution.
I have a hot water boiler and it was pretty easy for me. I bought a 24v transformer like this one off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Thermostats-Compatible-Honeywell-Thermostat/dp/B07MT5VWQN
And then plugged the two wires directly into the ecobee lite 3. It's been working well for me going one 1 year now.
Can you tape a box or cover over it while you’re gone? Like this Honeywell CG511A1000/C Medium Thermostat Guard with Inner Shelf to Prevent Tampering (Clear) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000BPGP6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_9FJXBS4QT606TP0J3N9S
It ain't pretty, but it just works and is easy to integrate into just about anything.
Radio Thermostat CT50
They make programmable line voltage thermostats which is what I believe you need. Honestly that is the route I would go. It would be cheaper to heat with a mini split or something like that but for one room you probably won't get a return on investment anytime soon.
Mysa Smart Thermostat for Electric Baseboard Heaters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VBP42M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_TC0AFTY3FH7QZ48QJFG9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I installed two of these at a previous home. They are z-wave. This was also 5 years ago, there may be better options, now.
Stelpro Z-Wave Plus KI STZW402WB+ Thermostat (White) for Electric Baseboards and Convectors
Don't use a wood stove in an RV... Much too dangerous. If the propane heater is not vented outside, I'd recommend not using it either as you'll have a humidity problem.
I'd second using one or two electric heaters (we heat our 40 ft class-A with two small heaters...) I have external to the heater thermostats to control the temperature which works well:
There are other cheaper ones, but when I tried the cheap ones they didn't work as well as the LUX did.
If you have a subscription, you can set up activity zones HOWEVER that will only stop notifications. The wireless cameras/doorbell will still activate, record, send to the cloud for analysis and thus, run down the battery pretty quickly. If you don’t want to run a traditional doorbell transformer to power the Wired, you can look into something like this:
You need a Stel-pro KI Zwave plus thermostat and a Zwave controller, like Samsung SmartThings hub.
Source: I work for an IOT provider in the Smart Apartment space, and we’ve used this thermostat with another hub previously and it works well.
Yes for sure! Something like this
24 Volt Transformer, C Wire Adapter Thermostats, Compatible with Ecobee, Nest and Honeywell Smart WiFi Thermostat, Ring Nest Hello Skybell August Doorbell (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MT5VWQN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JWBJE196JWTF4JW2QWD6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm looking for one myself currently. I don't think the z-wave stuff will have a requirement for cloud connectivity--which is good and bad. Good because, no cloud, bad because now you have to rely 100% upon your chosen home automation system to set up and schedule your thermostat. While some of them have a UI in the thermostat itself, most do not. As a result, they're pretty ugly and look very much like something you'd see in an office building. For some people, they want the pretty/cute nest or honeywell look.
I've found that Nortek sells a handful of dumb z-wave thermostats that might fit the bill. Also, this rather plain looking GoControl: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Thermostat-Z-Wave-Battery-Powered-Works/dp/B00ZIRV40K/ref=sr\_1\_9?dchild=1&keywords=zwave+thermostat&qid=1624305242&sr=8-9
NTA. You could try this, I've installed them for a couple of my clients who are landlords (I'm a handyman).
A different heating solution than a mat is to buy a temperature control something like this and a box fan. You'll then adjust the settings to turn on when it hits 75 and off at 79 fahrenheit for innoculation. They probably make them in celsius for the UK and you'll just have to adjust the settings to 23.9 to 26.7.
I use this method for my closet and the temperature stays within range 24/7. The best part is instead of being limited to a box with a heat pad, you'll instead have a whole closet to work with.
That's the issue I don't have access to the furnace. I ordered something else to power the Ecobee: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MT5VWQN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Meanwhile, I wait, I have the W as C just at the thermostat, I hope two days doesn't cause an issue.
I don't necessarily recommend it anymore due to the price nearly doubling since I bought it, but I have the GoControl GC-TBZ48. It's Zwave and the only trouble I've had out of it was the inital pairing. My HUSBZ-1 stick is about 30 feet from the thermostat with a wall between, it refused to pair. I had to buy a 32ft USB active extension and practically sit the stick on top of the thermostat to get it to pair. Since then, absolutely rock solid. It's easily controlled from the thermostat card in HA and I use Node Red for automation purposes.
Since my house already has a Honeywell, I was thinking of this WiFi enabled Honeywell. It says it “works with Alexa” so should be pretty easy to get into HA.
check this out. https://www.amazon.com/WILLHI-WH1436A-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=dsv+sous+vide&qid=1617744192&sr=8-3
This one from Honeywell works with the Honeywell TCC plug-in.
Been using these for just over two years. Love them. https://www.amazon.com/Stelpro-STZW402WB-Thermostat-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=stelpro&qid=1615717169&sr=8-1
I have a 5 zone boiler and all my thermostat only had 2 wires. I needed up using this.
24 Volt Transformer, C Wire Adapter Thermostats, Compatible with Ecobee, Nest and Honeywell Smart Wifi Thermostat, Ring Nest Hello Skybell August Doorbell (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MT5VWQN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GN1SXZD9PV2F2A7MN9MS
This will feed the power to the C wire. Not an elegant solution but it works. It used it on mine a year ago
what he said and I would recommend getting one of these it’ll auto turn on/off when it’s at the temperature you want
I bought this cheap little heater at Walmart
And this temp controller on Amazon.
Set the controller to turn on at 75, off at 79, facing away from my spawn bags and jars in the top of the closet on my 68 degree room. Only have a curtain keeping the closet closed and it keeps the space in there around 78 degrees no problem
I'm guessing you have some kind of electric radiator/baseboard heater? Not sure what country you're in but if you look for 120v thermostat you can find some choices like this
You should be perfectly fine at your current temps, though it will likely take a bit longer. If you have a suitable closet to grow in though, you could get a small space heater and something like this to turn off the heater when the closet reaches a certain temp. Depending on your ambient temperature, it could run anywhere from 30 minutes-3 hours a day, which is definitely safer than just leaving it on all the time. But if you're not comfortable with that, then you'll be just fine as long as the temperature doesn't wildly fluctuate.
Ohh! Yes, it's a Mysa - https://www.amazon.com/Mysa-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboard-Heaters/dp/B075VBP42M/
A bit pricey, but I needed a line voltage thermostat for my baseboard heaters. They integrate through the HomeKit integration and worked like a charm!
Yeah, a C-wire power supply will power it. So, something like this would do it. https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Thermostats-Compatible-Honeywell-Thermostat/dp/B07MT5VWQN/
(Not saying to get that one, that is just an example of what will power the thermostat.)
As for you old thermostat, take a pic of the setup, post to https://imgur.com/, then copy link here.
https://www.amazon.com/WILLHI-WH1436A-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00V4TJR00/ref=pd_aw_fbt_img_2/140-4833592-6491647?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00V4TJR00&pd_rd_r=8065cd40-823d-4fef-ac99-051529e87ca5&pd_rd_w=mSGo5&pd_rd_wg=XXK... this is dope too
Any cheap heater with mechanical switches will do really.
Our local walmart is selling these for ~$13 and they'd do fine
I went with the Lux WIN100 to control ours instead of a true smart option as it was a more convenient off the shelf option than coordinating a smart switch with a temperature sensor.
Honestly, and this is going to go against the grain of this sub, but you should probably look for a dumber solution, like a temperature controlled plug
A good one will be underwritten, so if it fucks up and doesn't turn the space heater off, and it burns your house down, your insurance company can't weasel out of a claim
Take a look at a zwave compatible thermostat as long as you are interested in running some sort of hub. This model even ramps the electricity so it doesn't overshoot tempature settings.
I have this one and have had zero issues with it. My first set of batteries lasted a year before I replaced them (they weren't dead yet but the battery level finally started dropping in HA so I changed them.)
Home inspector here. You should check the wiring on that either way. No way that was a switch originally. Probably an outlet that was turned in a switch by someone that didn't feel comfortable with wiring it correctly when the heater was installed.
If it were mine, I'd run some Romex up to a proper height and then maybe install something like this to it.
There's tons of timers and thermostats. No end of choices. Just make sure it supports enough amps to run your heater.
Another thought- doesn't the heater have a thermostat of its own? If you want to prevent it from running constantly that might be the answer. Set the thermostat on the heater to the max temp you want, then even if it has power it will shut off if that temp is reached.
You could also try something like this- it's more expensive, but it basically is a real thermostat. You can set times for weekdays and weekends and temperatures it should maintain. So it might keep the temp at like 55F (so the pipes don't freeze) all the time, then go to 65F weekday mornings or something.
FYI - this is the timer I have been using and it’s rated for 15 amps. I guessed at the timeframe surprisingly well... Amazon says I bought it in 2014.
Cheapest isn't usually a good option in the long run. In this case it more than likely will be hard to set up/connect, keep a connection, not have options that you'd probably want, good chance it won't operate as flawlessly as one you'd spend a bit more for and tech support may be non-existent. Cheap parts, cheaply put together...more trouble than it's worth. Honeywell is old as dirt. They're reliable. Tech support is 50/50. They make a dependable thermostat. I could have bought any wifi thermostat I wanted and chose the Honeywell TH9320WF because it did everything I wanted (and I could make the screen any color ;) ). It was $156 at the time on Amazon. Honeywell makes less spendy ones tho. It will have the Honeywell dependability but just the basics. $82/Amazon.
4 star rating
You will run up against the same issue as the OP - visitors and family will appreciate a conventional user interface without hub or cloud dependencies.
I believe the Aube part runs at either 50 or 60Hz and so should be OK in the UK. You'll need to find a UK-spec thermostat Amazon UK sells the GoControl unit for £101, but you might find better options.
Looks like it. From amazon:
I live in a condo and my old thermostat has heat/cool options as I have AC. Will this work?
No, This was designed just for baseboard heaters so there is no cool setting.
Radio Thermostat CT50
Home Assistant has a binding.
This is the combo that I use, under $60 total:
Starting with temp control unit
hey friend, I had the same issue with my nest, ended up using one of these and never thought about it again: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MT5VWQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The official guide suggests a small ceramic heater and temperature controller (both available from Am*zon: controller and heater). I have installed these. The ceramic heater only cycles when the temperature falls out of the preset zone. Temperature controller is outside of the closet (temperature probe inside), so I always have a visual of the closet temp. I've also seen tek with a reptile mat, using dowels to elevate the tub holding your bags between the mat and the tub. The guide recommends against a heating pad/mat directly against the bag surface. Hope this helps.
Line voltage thermostats have gross analog controls (versus fine digital controls)
You could add an aftermarket digital/timer tstat to the electrical plug. Amazon search for it
I have this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VBP42M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_btf_t1_25pBFbHBYJQKT, works pretty well with Alexa and it's nice looking. Works directly with 120v. I don't know about SmartThings though.
I'm sorry that this is all mostly roughly what I remember. We had a smart Honeywell one that had you log into a web portal to control the thermostat. That was maybe 2017. Our neighbors have a similar one (this one) that I think still works that way, but I'm not sure. I know for a fact (the one my neighbors have and we had, not sure if that's the right link but it looks the same) that you connect to a WiFi network from itself, and go to 192.168.1.1 to set it up, so it has web server tech inside it. None of this is for sure, but maybe I got you down the right path man.
>Lux ELV4 5-2 Programmable Line-Voltage Heating Thermostat. The ELV4 works with heating-only systems that are supplied by up to a 20 amp circuit breaker. It's universal design allows it to work with both single-pole (two-wire) and double-pole (four-wire)systems, 120/240-volt systems up to 16 amps (resistive: 1,900 watts at 120 VAC/3,800 watts at 240 VAC), and line voltage (120/240-volt) hot water systems with motors up to 1/4 horsepower.
What you have there is essentially a thermostatically controlled relay. When it senses the programmed temperature it completes a high volt circuit which should turn your heater/baseboard on. Normal thermostats are 24v and a little more complicated in that they have connections for heat pumps, fan control units, etc. (*I'm not 100% sure about this.)
On the amazon page for this device, I found a listing for a Mysa Smart Thermostat for Electric baseboard Heaters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VBP42M/ It requires 4 wires though. Call an HVAC contractor to investigate if this will work for you.
Oh. I see someone else already mentioned the Mysa.