Honeywell CG510A Thermostat Guard, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EJA7VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ixmwCbVSDTJRN
Well if $16 is too much for you to get heat again, I’m sorry for your life situation then. hope things get better!
You typically need C wire. Some thermostats have a solution to avoid C [not generic], and you will need batteries or power supply. Ugh
My choice would be to either add a wire, or use like https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Add-A-Wire-Kit/dp/B008PLWT8C add-a-wire kit. There are too many of them to count of those kits, you can find one.
>As soon as I saw her leave, I remotely turned off the one unit that I could. Obviously, I did not enter the house to turn the other one off.
Better would have been: message her that she left the A/C on and the windows open. Send pictures/videos. Ask her if she wants the A/C turned off or the windows shut, then pick one if she doesn't. Let her pretend forgetfulness, even though she did it on purpose; you get the same result with a friendlier conversation.
>She did however turn the AC back on immediately when it turned itself off. Every time she did, I got an error message. I looked out my window and heard the unit turn off, then turn back on, turn off, and turn on. This happened about ten times.
She probably thought you were remotely turning off the A/C every time in a childish little tug-of-war. The heat thing the next day was payback.
>I do have it in the rules that if AC is on, windows are to be closed, but no one ever reads the rules.
It's just plain common sense not to run A/C or heat when the windows are open, but we all know common sense isn't all that common. You can put a sign next to the A/C controls.
Smart thermostats can be set to require a passcode, but some non-smart thermostats can too. If you have an old analog thermostat, look at a thermostat lock box (or build your own if you're handy).
Or you can get a tamper-proof thermostat that won't let you set the heat above 72F or the cooling below 72F (there's another model with 76F/76F). Of course for a little more you can just get an actual smart thermostat where you can lock the keypad.
Have this same setup and have constantly had voltage issues. “adD A C wiRe” crowd doesn’t seem to understand not everyone is an electrician, hvac specialist or can run new wires. I’m in a 90 yo house it’s not that fuckin simple.
Nest did just start selling their own C Wire solution that’s easy to install. Mine just arrived today.
I have previously used a Venstar add a wire kit with success on my upstairs unit that had more issues, but held off with my downstairs unit because when heat was on I had very few issues, which is most of the year since my heat is radiant via a boiler. Only the summer months do I get power issues with cool only on my cooling unit to the nest.
I've heard that before too. Would something like this add a wire thing off Amazon remedy the problem? Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Accessory for All 24 VAC Thermostats (4 to 5 Wires), White https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nnMeCb39AEYJG
Best technical option is to run a new cable from the a/c unit.
One easy option is to install a Nest Power Connector at the a/c unit. Otherwise give up the G wire for a C or get a Venstar add-a-wire kit.
The new Nest thermostat was not designed for how you have it set up. You have 4 wires but are only connecting 3. Your furnace is now like a battery with only one end connected.
You need something like this that includes an isolation relay: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00755BZZC
Alternatively you can combine the old Rh with the power adapter wire going into the Nest R connector. This works but has reported higher rates of HVAC system failures.
Normally yellow and green are for air conditioning and blower fan. If you don't have them you don't need them. Some installers like attaching unused wires to make it look good.
So you really only have two wires active. Red R and White W.
The Nest E is hit or miss with an oil furnace. You can try it but plan on adding a transformer and isolation relay such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00755BZZC.
You have the symptoms of needing a C wire as Nest's power stealing is triggering the furnace. Since you have no access to the furnace your options are limited. Installing a https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00755BZZC might be easiest.
I realized it after I had posted my response and agree I misunderstood his point.
I had done some review digging its you are correct. Folks with no C wire seem to have partial success with their units however there is a lot of ugly reviews out there.
https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nest-Power-Connector-Accessories/dp/B093TRFQWP?th=1
It can be… or not. Hardest part is usually snaking a new wire between your furnace and the thermostat.
But first check to see if possibly there is an extra, unused wire behind the thermostat. Often an installer will use a thermostat wire “bundle” of 6 or 7 wires, and won’t need all of them. If you already have an extra wire, it’s a pretty easy job. You just need to attach one end of the wire to C on your thermostat, and the opposite end to C or Common on your furnace’s control panel.
If that’s not possible (or you can’t run a new wire), you can install a Nest Power Adapter as an alternative.
You need a C wire adapter. https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nest-Power-Connector-Accessories/dp/B093TRFQWP (check home depot if you want it today).
looking at your Nest base, i believe you've had it for a while now. the internal battery has worn down so much that the unit has to constantly charge to stay powered. since you don't have a C wire, it is power stealing and using the Y wire for a common wire. when power is sent down the Y wire (intentionally or unintentionally), the AC will try to run. when the battery was new, it only had to charge for short periods of time so you would have never noticed.
> I have a feeling of the Kumo cloud can make it connect to Alexa, that I can connect it through Hubitat or something I already have.
Not a good assumption - Mitsubishi have written the Alexa integration, as opposed to publishing an API that permitted Amazon to write that integration.
That being said, your heat-pump likely supports the Mitsubishi PAC-US444CN-1 thermostat interface.
This interface runs about $250, and will permit you to control the heat-pump with the conventional thermostat of your choice, such as a z-wave or zigbee thermostat that is Hubitat compatible, or even an ecobee, for which there is a Hubitat cloud integration.
Here's the relevant Amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-Electric-Thermostat-Interface-R2/dp/B01BNW6PZM
Hey any thoughts on using one of those kits to “add a C wire” ? Example. https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Add-A-Wire-Kit/dp/B008PLWT8C
I could pull a new wire but if this works just as good I’d rather do this and be done with it in 10 mins. Thanks.
Then looks like I may have to get up into that attic after all to try to find that A/C system board.
Just in case I don't have any other unused wiring running from the A/C system area, do you think I should be able to use the Nest Power Connector to connect to Y + R + C on the control board and then connect other side of the Power Connector back to Y + R to wires running to my thermostat?
https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nest-Power-Connector-Accessories/dp/B093TRFQWP
As per this photo (though looks like they are using furnace wire W instead of Y for cooling here but I think the idea is the same).
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71sTsWfScQS._AC_SL1500_.jpg
Yes Mitsubishi sells an adapter for external conventional thermostat. There is also a red link kit but I’m not too sure how that works.
You need to install a nest C wire adapter. This will eliminate the running of both the AC and heat at the same time. The reason the AC is running is because when it runs heat, it uses the Y wire for charging. You can put the outside wires back at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nest-Power-Connector-Accessories/dp/B093TRFQWP
Also available at best buy and home depot if you want to purchase it in person.
Confirm if your nest detects the C wire. If it does, then this is just being unreliable. I recommend installing the nest C wire adapter to be safe. https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nest-Power-Connector-Accessories/dp/B093TRFQWP
It is also available at home depot and best buy if you want it today.
This will prevent this from happening at all.
You could try a product like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BNW6PZM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_ANRB3JA65H6RGXVKZH0Z
That would allow you to control the Mitsubishi with a traditional thermostat, such as an Ecobee or Nest, and then connect the hydronic to Rh-W. Giving you one controller for the two systems.
There was no common wire in the original thermostat wiring so I need to add one.
By “add a wire” I meant this https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nest-Power-Connector-Accessories/dp/B093TRFQWP/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=78927694938&gclid=CjwKCAjw7IeUBhBbEiwADhiEMbhaBvQTPcx0T-RdJtV8UN-EJjXLaMVIHjiIQzyq1gQXEgu27vBDRhoCkygQAvD_BwE&hvadid=379237678521&hvdev...
Do you have any idea why heat will function and charge fine without a common wire but the AC will not? Assuming it has something to do with the signal voltage required to toggle the starting capacitor.
I ordered this power adapter for the thermostat with my two wire system. Have not had an issue with it yet. Set up was very simple.
24 Volt Transformer, LANMU C Wire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C3J6PQX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Force the issue. Either he keeps the thermostat at his preferred temperature but pays the difference in the electric bill himself or you all collectively agree on a temperature and split the electric bill evenly.
If he refuses to accept either solution, then buy a lockable thermostat cover like this one and install it when he's not there. Don't give him a key to it until he agrees to a reasonable solution.
u/dont-fear-thereefer is right. It's a missing common wire issue. If possible, i would pull both the Y1 and G wire. But in general, your system is going to try "run" every time it charges. So the fan might still run even after removing the wires because it's just going to charge using the W wire (which in turn might start your fan).
You have 2 options.
> Could I perhaps put a case or something around the thermostat?
Yup. There are thermostat covers available that permit air-flow. In my experience, this is sufficient to prevent thermostats coming on due to negative pressure even when there isn't heated make-up air. Here's an example:
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-CG511A1000-Thermostat-Prevent-Tampering/dp/B000BPGP6M/
You can just get this: https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nest-Power-Connector-Accessories/dp/B093TRFQWP
this is really simple especially if you already know where to put the c wire.
I found this product recommendation on Reddit and it worked like a charm. Venstar 2 wire kit with relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00755BZZC In the Reviews, there's a post by Survivalist that well explains the wiring: https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/TxTO3F1E27XZS7/ref=ask_ql_ql_al_hza
Sure.
The Nest Smart Thermostat (silver and black one) can pull power to charge an internal battery when the heat / blower / AC are on. If it really runs low, it just runs the system blower to give it a circuit to charge off.
Any battery powered smart thermostat will work. That is mostly things like Z-Wave or ZigBee or Bluetooth
You could just add a C-wire if you can run new wire from where the thermostat is to your HVAC.
Or you can use an add-a-wire kit like this- put one of these things on both ends, and you can turn two wires into 3.
If you have access the furnace, you can buy a Nest C wire adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nest-Power-Connector-Accessories/dp/B093TRFQWP). Once you have that, you can install it according to the directions at the furnace control panel. You already know where the C wire goes since that's where the green wire is currently. This frees up the green wire to be used for G again. Move the green wire to the G terminal at the furnace.
I used two of these to make my four wire thermostat wiring into 6 wires.
Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Accessory for All 24 VAC Thermostats (4 to 5 Wires), White https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NDEZZ5DFQFAT8AMQGAR9
So I'd suggest: 1. Run a new thermostat wire with at least 4 conductors. 2. On your furnace look at the labels where these wires go. I am guessing the blue wire goes to "W" and the yellow wire goes to "R" (or maybe Rh, same thing). 3. If there is a C terminal at the furnace, connect blue in your new wire to it. Connect red to R (or to Rh, ie where the current yellow wire goes to) and white to W. 4. On the Wyze thermostat, red wire to Rh, white wire to white, blue wire to C (common). 5. If you don't have these terminals on your furnace, then you need a 24VAC transformer like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C3J6PQX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 6. Plug in the transformer near the furnace end of the new thermostat wire, use 2 conductors from that wire to send the 24VAC to the Wyze, connect the 24VAC to C and Rc (order doesn't matter, they are symmetrical with AC) 7. Connect R on the furnace (yellow wire with your current cable) to the red wire, and then W on the furnace (blue wire with your current cable) to W on the Wyze. As soon as you get the AC connection right you'll see the Wyze light up with the Wyze logo.
Hope this helps. Note I am not a professional HVAC person by any measure, but I have installed a Wyze thermostat before. :)