Polish it, then wax it to protect it.
This is stuff is great and a little goes a long way, this should last you for several years:
Renaissance Wax Polish , 200 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_GE-3FbK2754EA
If you want to shine it up, use Brasso.
Brasso-2660089334 Multi-Purpose Metal Polish, 8 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D600PLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_kv9-FbP75N6NN
Some people don’t want to remove the patina (tarnish) because they like the antique look it gives the piece. If you want to maintain the patina, just wash it in the sink with water and dish soap then wipe dry.
First, don't store it in the scabbard. You can use polish on it instead of constantly oiling it, I found this is a good product for this
Please don’t use steel wool. It leaves little conducive fibers and can kill the cart of not cleaned properly. Use a product called brasso brass polish. Use a little dab on a microfiber cloth and buff with your finger they will look brand new. Then wipe clean with iso. I’ve done hundreds and it works great.
Edit added link.
this style of sword is from Germany 19th centcury and i generally see it described as a court saber. for the blue and gilt i suggest using ren wax to protect it and the rest of the blade this is a very nice example and the blue and gilt is very easy to loose.
Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner Paste for Metal, Plastic, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Jewelry, Sterling Silver: Great for Headlight Restoration + Rust Remover, Made in the USA https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000MUSOW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J1gcGbP4MTW63
That's a lovely piece, and an inventive way to decorate some pretty labradorite.
I use Renaissance Wax polish (Amazon) to finish all my oxidised work. It was was developed by The British Museum for protection of fine art and will not stain or discolour with aging. It is acid neutral, water and alcohol resistant. You may wish to re-apply this coating in time due to wear / usage.
i use mineral oil which smells a bit better, but needs to be applied a bit more often then ren wax which last until the dust covering it gets bad enough to damage the coating(aka years)
i would redo the grip but im a bit of a obsessive collector
Buy a tube of Flitz polish. Then you can more or less use any soft applicator and give it a rub (cotton balls, a rag).
Different folks have YouTube videos. But once the knife is apart, I’d suggest polishing all the metal contact surfaces. Waders, blade end, scales (for metal scales - NOT these G10 scales), the inside ovals of the liners where the Axis Bar slides, etc…
You don’t really have to do this - after you use the knife enough, the metal-on-metal self-polishes, but sometimes the wait ain’t worth it. For sure, don’t go crazy with the polishing - you don’t need tons of pressure or friction. You can also use rouge sticks if you’re familiar with rouge wet sanding. You’re looking for a very high grit (1000-2000 grit) and it should be done with a water or oil - you don’t want to dry sand the metal internals. I suppose you could even use a leather strap polisher if you had a machine , but I don’t, so it would have to be by hand…and I ain’t gonna try that…
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MUSOW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H63DQH7BWB2JQRDF868V
The stock pictures make them look more compact to my uncalibrated eyeball, but yeah, I guess that someone swapped the dies and didn't realize.
Polish routine is: Dremel, Felt wheel & Blue Magic Metal Polish. I had use use an empty box to polish them in because the dremel throws the polish in every direction. I also had to use a mask because believe it or not, the ammonia from the polish actually triggered my allergies.
I use this:
Blue Magic 400 7Oz Mtl Polish Cream
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/
Then, if it’s a metal that I want to hold off tarnish, I follow the polish with this:
Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish (65 ml)
I don't think polish would take care of the deeper scratches but would work for the lighter ones.
Is this the Polish that you use?
I mean stuff like this. Did you use any on your gale? I’ve been told that polish makes it look 10x better
I would use Brasso to shine it up and then protect it with car wax.
Brasso-2660089334 Multi-Purpose Metal Polish, 8 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D600PLA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_XNIbGbKEVRX94
Meguiar’s A1216 Cleaner Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYE5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_NPIbGb320P6WD
I used this product from amazon (honestly i just picked one semi randomly when I couldn't find the same brand I was told to use), It worked just fine. As for the dremel bit, I used the white fuzzy round thing you probably get in every dremel kit you've ever seen.
Try this.
“Renaissance Wax” is what the Smithsonian uses to preserve most types of hard artifacts. It's great for tools, knives, guns (storage not use) etc
Thankfully, the stuff on this blade was just on the surface and I was eventually able to rub it off with just my thumbs.
I think a layer of oil would have probably helped. I have also seen some folks reference using wax such as this (Renaissance wax polish):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012S1XBO/?coliid=I3TKJE5RM9E7ON&colid=X93STTHQ1BTU&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I was wondering if someone would have suggested using something similar. I haven't ever used the stuff, but it might be worth picking up to try it out. I have also heard of people using beeswax with good results. I doubt it would be durable on a working blade, but during construction it might be useful.
is this the item you were talking about? https://www.amazon.com/Flitz-Plastic-Fiberglass-1-76-Ounce-Blister/dp/B000MUSOW4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1Z6I70THR9H7N&keywords=flitz&qid=1666741797&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjM3IiwicXNhIjoiMy4xMiIsInFzcCI6IjMuMDkifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=flitz%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-1-spons&th=1
Those are amazing OP! If you want to make them shine a bit but keep the aged patination you could apply a product like Renaissance Wax to protect the metal :)
Those resurfacer machines like disc doctor and JFJ are garbage. Spin too slow to do anything, more likely to add scratches than take any out. And most of them use a filler compound, that doesn't work well, better to basically sand off the scratches.
Get a buffing wheel and Flitz
Apply a pea sized drop to a disc, spread it around, buff it out. When buffing, stick one finger through the center hole, use your thumb on the outside edge to spin the disc the opposite way the buffer wants to turn it. Buff until their is no more Flitz, and no haze. If there are still scratches, go again.
I've resurfaced hundreds of unplayable disc's that now work. I used to buy lots on ebay of 30-100 scratched disc's for like $20, resurface them this way, and resell them (for very low prices, but playable games). All my ebay auctions for those games, I said I'd give full refund I'm exchange for a video of the disc going in and not reading. I don't know how many I had that failed, a few, but not a large percent, maybe 5%.
https://www.amazon.ca/Picreator-PCRW2-BRK-Renaissance-Wax-Polish/dp/B0012S1XBO
Use this, it works and it’s amazing. The NRA museum sells this product.
I have absolutely no idea what I’m talking about or any experience whatsoever, but I’ve heard they use Renaissance Wax to restore or protect paintings in museums… may be worth looking into?
https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-Polish-200-ml/dp/B0012S1XBO
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Use this stuff to polish feed ramps for guns use demel polishing pads or more work but micro fiber cloth works. Polishing to a mirror like finish
Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner Liquid for Metal, Plastic, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Jewelry, Sterling Silver: Great for Headlight Restoration + Rust Remover, 3.4 oz (Model: LQ 04535) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXNJS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_SDPEHJY7ES386CHPF2W1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I always use flitz metal polish on the whole clubhead, first with 3000 grit sandpaper and then again with a rag. Cleans it right up, and even stops future wear and fingerprints. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MUSOW4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
i like ren wax because it last longer and reducing the number of times you need to reapply reduces friction. even the softest cloth rubbed on the blue a million times will wear it down.
RUST PREVENTION for long term storage.
Control humidity with heaters (better) or silica gel (in small spaces.)
Redry used silica gel in a 220 deg oven.
Rust prevention:
Vapor Corrosion Inhibitor paper:
ZERUST rust preventive capsules, tabs, or paper wrap one time use. Use in a small, closed container.
Clean and WAX for long term storage: Renaissance wax:
https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Wax-200ml/dp/B0012S1XBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495662265&sr=8-1&keywords=renaissance+wax
Brownells Rust Preventative Spray: http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/oils-lubricants/rust-prevention/rust-preventive-no-2--prod1124.aspx
for the brass i would use brasso but do not get it on the wood or leather. i normally wrap the leather in something tight then in blue tape to cordon it off like if you were painting before using it and you can use blue tape right on the wood.
for the leather i would get a shop towel damp in mineral oil squeezing out as much as will come out then gently dabbing the leather to remove dust and grime and rehydrate the leather. this indirect method will prevent over saturating the leather in oil which will damage the leather, but it being dried out will also damage the leather. its very much by feel and in-between dabbing sessions i would wait 24 hours to let it air dry until you are happy with the feel of the leather. you want to stay between 15-29% oil by weight and its not at 0%. after you are happy with the hydration levels seal it with ren wax or dubbin to create a moisture seal and protect it but wait at least overnight after applying oil.
that specific dubbin is what i use because its what matt Easton recommends.
dont get water on the leather ever.
Flitz metal polish. It'll change your life. Test on a small area first.
Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner Liquid for Metal, Plastic, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Jewelry, Sterling Silver: Great for Headlight Restoration + Rust Remover, 3.4 oz (Model: LQ 04535) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXNJS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6N62CXN2N0R974ZW91BB