Search for carbon filter on Amazon and you’ll find a bunch. They’re all pretty much the same.
VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan, Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, Pre-filter Included, Reversible Flange 4" x 14" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMBU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NN2YA3R0B0VMEM2PYMNZ
Marijuana grower chiming into this good idea. Since your going to be needing fans to make positive pressure you can also look into getting a carbon air filter with an in-line fan . Marijuana growers like me use them to scrub strong plant smell so it should clean all that smoke smell for you. This is what I use https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Australia-Charcoal-Pre-filter-Included/dp/B01DXYMBU6?th=1&psc=1
Great white and Growers Recharge seem to be more popular and well thought of.
Here is a fan with speed controller built into it
Here is my copy paste daily response to people planning on using shit tier LEDs.
> TL;DR Don't waste your cash on shit tier LEDs - buy HPS/MH/CMH if you are short on money.
> LEDs are not better in any measurable way then HID until you get to at least mid tier stuff.
> DE HPS / CMH are close to comparable to COBs. That said I believe the results of lab testing that I've seen show more usable light from Vero / Cree COBs ( and possible Citizen , but I haven't seen as much data on them). The number that you are looking for is the ppfd. This is the photosynthetic photon flux density. It is the measurement of PAR at the canopy and is measured in micromoles per second per meter squared.
> IIRC really good HIDs like Gavita DE HPS or CMH are around 1.7 - 1.9 micromoles per joule and COBs are 1.8-2.2, and quantum board type setups are 2.5+. Shit tier LEDs from amazon (mars hydro , vivaspectra) are like 1.0 - 1.2.
> I'm not saying you can't grow bud with shit tier LEDs I'm saying you will grow more and better bud using HPS of the same $ amount vs shit tier LEDs.
In your example your spending $140 on 10 year old LED tech and getting 264W at the wall which doesn't even come close to the 40 - 50W per SF rule most people use. This $120 400W HPS will crush those Mars lights in yield and quality. This is why I say don't use LEDs unless your ready to spread that wallet wide.
Things to think about later are drying racks, jars, and trimming scissors.
That ten inch passive roof vent is purpose specific for providing attic ventilation to both cool and dry the attic space above the ceiling insulation and below the roof deck. It should never be used for your purpose. Doing so will be both ineffective for bath ventilation and reduce attic ventilation. A bad combination.
Obtain and install a dedicated roof top fan vent like this: https://www.amazon.com/Broan-636-Roof-Vent-Only/dp/B000BQW6LE
Thank you for the reply. So this is not a good product?
It had really good reviews and said it was fire resistant aluminum?
I had trouble with my in-line fan and the PC fans that I installed in the tote originally fighting each other.
Meaning I had the PC fan on the outside of the tote. And the shroud onto the pc fan. Then the duct on the shroud. And then the in-line fan then filter.
I found that the space between the tote wall and the shroud (the depth of the fan) was leaking a lot of smell out.
I moved the pc fan inside. The the tote wall. Then the shroud. Then the duct.
Now that I’m this far into explaining it. I guess I should have asked if it’s possible that the smell problem is from an air leak around the duct and fan and not from the filter being used up or insufficient?
> The black box goes on top of the printer during the print, and on second photo, the exhaust is attached to the black box that sucks up the air from the box.
That was clear, but when you lift the box off it’s no longer drawing air from around the printer so when you open the lid all that stink drifts out into the room. The air filter is actually causing the air to move more and spreads it out. If you have a cabinet then you can open the door with the fan still running and so it will continue to pull the air out around the printer even when you open it’s lid.
Here’s an example of a centrifugal fan. The blades are parallel to the side of the fan and scoop the air in such a way that they overcome pressure better than a standard fan. They’re sometimes called Squireel Cage fans because the blade mechanism looks like the exercise wheel you get for a pet rodent.
Hm, this is the one I purchased, it says the inner material is flame resistant aluminum
Hey! I bought a filter off amazon and it was garbage. I wrote a 1 stare review saying it didn’t remove the smell and the seller contacted me and agreed to give me a refund if I removed the review. Try writing a review and see what happens. If you happen to be in Canada I ordered https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Australia-Charcoal-Pre-filter-Included/dp/B01DXYMBU6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542050922&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=carbon+filter&psc=1 and it actually works. I’ve tested it in flower and there was no smell. Hope this helps.
I found this on Amazon. Search for 4 inch hose adapter. The adapter is meant to attach to a 120 mm fan. If youre using a inline fan, you could screw it strait to your bucket.
Tinker3D Antminer S7 S9 S9i E3 T9... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXZ8EUG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
you have no need for a blower that big nor speed controller. For odor control of the enclosure, a 120mm 50+cfm fan mounted on a 120 to 4" round adapter is fine. Also, the single layer Al flex duct is a PITA, this works better. my recommendation is my exact setup. Most people use an fan or blower way to big for odor control.
Check this shroud out.
I used them in a space tote that I use for males (now that I bought a tent).
Without a banana for scale, or at least something that says what size fan that is, its hard to say how useful of a design it is.
Most people will tell you the charcoal filters that are small enough to fit inside the resin printer don't really do much. They certainly are more safety theater than they are increasing your safety. (i.e., they may slightly reduce smells, but not enough to take the dangerous chemicals out of your air)
If you're trying to make using a resin printer relatively safe in a residential space, a more substantial filter that flows a lot more air is necessary.
Thanfully, these days, the huge number of people who are growing plants in their houses they don't want neighbors or the fuzz to know about have made that kind of high-volume filtering really surprisingly inexpensive. Things like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DXYMBU6/
A small grow tent, a high-flow blower and a filter like that will work far better. I used a slightly bigger grow tent -- one big enough for a 2x4' workspace for the printer, part cleaner, etc -- and it was less than $200 total. I can vent outside, but there's no resin, alcohol or any other smell even if I don't. (In fact, the odds are the air coming out of the tent is a lot cleaner than the air going into it...)
Sorry for all the questions, but do i need this as well? https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Heavy-Duty-Four-Layer-Ventilation/dp/B07WRDTX4C/ref=pb_pd_lutyp_m_rtpb_sccl_6/136-6274174-4888566?pd_rd_w=cbHok&content-id=amzn1.sym.8c8fc28b-4b3f-4af8-b314-d27c7918df76&pf_rd_p=8c8fc28b-4b3f-4af8-b314-d2...
> was wondering what else you guys would recommend
I use this carbon air filter to reduce the chance of spores, allergens, and having fresher air in the tent. You can get some small fans in there to provide circulation as well. I use smartdevil fans, $15 a piece.
buy some of these cheap outlet gaskets, they work wonders
This might help you too. Be sure you check your fan size so they match. But then you can run a vent hose to your fan too.
I have what u/Funny_Car9256 suggested and like them. These are the ones I bought, I like them because I can just pop out the type I need instead of buying all the different cuts.
You can use smoke to detect if air is leaking through cracks if you want to try to diagnose. The close proximity might be the biggest factor here though. Sealing your house is a good first time home owner starter task, helps build the confidence to do more and you get real benefits from it quickly like saving on energy bills and being more comfortable. Either adding or replacing existing caulking, weatherstripping, sealing and repairing any damage like cracks and holes on both the inside and out. Go through every seam in the house, walls, floors, ceilings, windows, doors, flashing, vents, outlets, etc and you can be occupied for a while.
If you are comfortable turn the power off and take the exterior and interior outlet covers off, inspect for damage, inspect the receptacle box, the wall around the hole made for the outlet, etc. If it bothers you more I'd write it down on a list and when the list gets to the size you want call and electrician and ask them to move the exterior outlet, they may want to wire it better as well.
Get these:
TradeGear Wall Plate Insulation Gasket 26 Pack – Wall Gasket Replacement Made with Weatherproof, Polyethylene Insulating Foam – Energy Saving, One Size Fits All Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CYKCU4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EQ4W062V4PZJ6W4T10ZT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You need a coupe of things.
You need a proper roof vent like this. https://www.amazon.com/Broan-636-Roof-Vent-Only/dp/B000BQW6LE/
You might actually have that but it doesn’t look like it. If that is the correct one then the duct to vent connector might have come loose or broke. The connection tube may be in the duct. The connection tube may have tabs on the outer edges that let it hang from the bottom of the roof vent. If they are broken or there isn’t the correct roof vent then it is time to replace. Note that bath roof vents have a flap to let air out and prevent air from coming in.
Also I can see that there isn’t any tape on the duct. You should use Nashua 324a tape. This is the best tape for ducting. Don’t use duct tape.
Is that a rigid duct as well? It looks like it. If that duct doesn’t quite reach the roof vent then you can use a bit of flex duct.
So getting on the roof can be dangerous. Make sure you have friends there to help you. Also there are YouTube videos to show you how to install a roof vent. Make sure to get all the right tools and the right sealant for the roof.
So let’s say you can’t fix it right away. A temp fix is to measure the hole on the roof and get a hvac register boot that matches the dimensions. Ensure it has either an edge flange or hanging brackets so you can screw it into place. They make registers like this one that would work as well with a little blocking. https://www.homedepot.com/p/SPEEDI-BOOT-6-in-W-x-8-in-L-to-4-in-Dia-Ceiling-Box-Boot-SBH-684-CBOX/309791421
Don’t use screws that will go through the sheathing. If you attach it directly to the sheathing. I would add blocking to help support the register boot.
Good luck
Well your right, if you can't get it to vent straight up to the attic, getting it to vent outside your house is the least of your problems
If you are sure the ducting is clean, the 90 degree elbows are crushed/collapsed, maybe it is time to look into a power vent.
I have never used had to use one, they are not exactly cheap, but if it works, may be worth it. this appears to be a top seller on Amazon
I'm using an AC Infinity inline fan, It works well and is practically silent. The original vivoson inline fan I had was a piece of junk. The motor bearings failed after running for about 2 months.
This is the product I purchased from Amazon. Seems to have great reviews but is it crap?
Have you considered a UL listed booster system that is automatic?
"Includes 115 VAC cord - automatic operation"
Or this automatic one (unclear about UL listing)
"Fantech DBF 110 Dryer Booster Fan 4" Duct 167 CFM - Ducting Components - Amazon.com" https://www.amazon.com/Fantech-DBF-Dryer-Booster-Duct/dp/B000GXF7KO
The product is equipped with a pressure-sensing switch that activates the fan once positive pressure is sensed in the duct line.
Naah
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Australia-Charcoal-Pre-filter-Reversible/dp/B01DXYMBU6
It's what they use on grow tents. Definitely works better than anything else. It's an actual carbon filter. And you add a flexible dryer duct, you have a perfect sploof to blow your smoke into.
Definitely get the inline fan combo
Yes that's a toy and it looks downright silly in design. I can see why it was blocking your vent.
Below is a real filter.
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Australia-Charcoal-Pre-filter-Reversible/dp/B01DXYMBU6
Trial and error / little stubbornness / parts lists on this sub and the associated website / the Vivosun store on amazon.
But even just yesterday I took off the ac infinity fans and screens and adapter for the vent hose and put them in a different order so the adapter was snug to the wall of the tote instead of leaving a gap and letting air escape. So I guess the guide of tinkering too much is one that I still follow ;)
So I saw some loose charcoal and then did some poking around Amazon reviews and noticed that I’m not the only one that has had this problem with this particular filter. There also seems to be a lack of documentation as to what this 4” filter is rated for with respect to air-flow cubic-feet-per-minute (CFM), much less what type of corresponding CFM the attached fan needs for odor filtration. The fan OP recommended is 100 CFM, and the consensus from the Amazon reviews seems to be that is not strong enough. I held a piece of tissue in front of the filter with the fan running and it wasn’t strong enough to pull the tissue to the filter. I also blew smoke towards it, and the fan wasn’t strong enough to capture it.
After a lot of reading and price comparison, I got AC Infinity Air Carbon Filter 4" with Premium Australian Virgin Charcoal, for Inline Duct Fan, Odor Control, Hydroponics, Grow Rooms which is rated at 210 CFM and this VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower for Grow Tent fan to power it. This setup actually holds tissue to the filter.
Whether or not this combo will actually scrub the air and for how long, I can’t say.