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Ballpark $200.. I bought the wood about two years ago and believe it was ~ $80-$100 2x6x8 walnut. The epoxy, tyvek tape, mica powder and a few other things I didn’t have were about $110. Here’s the epoxy and mica powder in case anyone is interested.
We actually ended up using a couple brands because we really underestimated how much we would need. So we started with this stuff from home depot and then ended with this stuff from Amazon. They both worked great. I think the part that made it look really good was using a heat gun to get rid of all the air bubbles.
???
It’s pretty common. I’ve made belt buckles out of it.
Simple amazon search:
EPOXY RESIN CRYSTAL CLEAR 16 oz Kit. FOR SUPER GLOSS COATING AND TABLETOPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWT156B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DguHzbHFXJ16E
Buy some plasti dip in a can, the orginal stuff that you can actually dip the clips into it will give a much thicker coat.
great idea with buying the neighbor some traps.
is this the steel wool meant? https://www.amazon.ca/Steel-Super-Rhodes-American-Finish/dp/B074MDTWQR/ref=sr_1_5?crid=10JXELQGI1X2G&dchild=1&keywords=steel+wool&qid=1610468373&sprefix=steel+wo%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-5
that looks like the one used for dish washing. and my father in law was saying that the mice will create another hole if we do that, is that not true?
Just bought a can of plasti dip. Can get it from any hardware/automotive store or even Amazon. Put some masking tape around the logos, and put on 3-5 layers. Super easy to do. It’s the same process as spray painting something, but the good thing about the plasti dip is that you can just peel it off whenever you like without leaving residues (takes 30 seconds). I peeled mine off after a year just bc I got bored of the color.
Crystal Clear Bar Table Top Epoxy Resin Coating for Wood Tabletop - 1 Gallon Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYK2NAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_zxqaGbCCJDFDK is a great and trusted brand. I’d advise going with a much smaller size though, unless you have more epoxy/resin projects you want to pursue.
White...not sure how that's possible. Literally any other pigment colors would work. White idk....
How much epoxy do you need? Order something off of amazon and overnight it. I used this with great results. Though for projects I really cared for, I would use west systems. Might not be easy to get a hold of west systems within the timeline.
First I sprayed on 6 coats of normal black performix plastidip and then 3 coats for performix plastidip metalizer copper!
edit: amazon links
https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW
Hardware store, walmart, or amazon has it! Many many colors!
Oh, don't use art resin, use something UV resistant and made for bartops. Popular brand on Amazon
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If it isn't UV resistant, it will yellow and become brittle like older plastics often did, and I know the stuff sold at most art stores is NOT uv resistant.
Watch some of their vids on YouTube, they are pretty cool.
Here it is on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=plastidip&qid=1556123766&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Let me know if you need tips.
I had a similar situation with that bolt in the rear (phrasing?), I actually planned on making a design with a neodymium (sp?) magnet that required no legs at all and would be strongly magnetized to that bolt. To my dismay, I too noticed that the front had no bolt. I print them face down, and just clean off any gluestick residue with a damp cloth, then they are very flat and shiny, I dont have to do any sanding at all. I got the resin off amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWT156B/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I just measure equal parts for both A and B, then mix the crap out of it. You have pleant of time before it becomes "unworkable", I mean like at least an hour before you couldn't pour it anymore. Don't worry about the bubbles while mixing it, just do this... https://youtu.be/36V-7vejTHs
Did you conformal coat your FC? The only time I've had anything die on the shelf was due to dampness / water in the electronics. Happens more often when flying in the damper months of the year, but can happen if you fly after a heavy dew in summer.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Premium-Acrylic-Conformal/dp/B07B8RY7M6
Use this stuff outdoors, it has a very strong vapor / odor which is NOT good for you to breath in.
Responding to both your ESC and Motor recommendation request for budget options:
Hobbywing Quicrun 120a is your cheapest option for a bigger ESC. Although, simply dropping the KV of your motor will help a lot (High KV pulls more amps)
Rocket 550 sensored (make sure you're getting the fullcan/"dustproof" one, not the "drift" one with milled out slots to lighten the can). I'd go for something like 3300kv and higher gear rating than a higher KV and lower gear rating. You can use a calculator like this to estimate (keep in mind you have to convert KV * Voltage = RPM) https://www.omnicalculator.com/everyday-life/rpm
I don't think the rocket is waterproof. You can water-resistant it by opening it up and covering the circuit board with a waterproofing agent. Most "correct" is conformal coating, but you can also use dollar-store/walmart clear nail polish. Then use liquid rubber (aka liquid electrical tape or plasti-dip) on the soldered connections.
I also recommend aluminum heatsinks (buy ones with fans, you can always remove them at first), and if that's not enough (or plastic fans break), aluminum frame fans. Make sure to buy the correct fan size. FYI, can also buy aluminum frame fan for ESC.
If you got a soldering iron tip you can trash, you can just melt through the barrier. You'd then reseal. The proper stuff to use is Conformal Coating (and may be what's on there already).
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Conformal-Coating/dp/B085G42TGS/
About 10 bucks all in all. Just have to move furniture from your wall while you look at the bottom and top seam. Also a ladder obviously helps to reach the top edges of your ceiling or any ledges you have that are too high to reach.
Those are beautiful. Screams quality timeless craftsmanship. I wouldn't touch them except with fine furniture wax......
but it's yours to do with as you please... buffing it with some very fine steel wool would knock the gloss off and be easily restorable
Conformal coating isn't really that expensive and is specifically intended to provide lasting protection to circuit boards.
However, just about anything reasonable should work. This is very much not a demanding use case.
Doing multiple coats would provide substantially more protection than the choice of material.
Good way to scrap the glass, dumbass. use 0000 steel-wool next time.
As others have said. get some 90%+ Isopropyl, spray it down real good, let it sit for a day or two and see what happens.
Next time...use this on your board. Water won't be an issue after you apply THIS
Add some conformal coating to perfect the exposed circuits to the elements or other metals. I'm an aviation electrician and also did bench work for many years, you want to peirce your work. Conformal choosing is brushed on and dries fast.
MG Chemicals - 422C-55MLCA 422C Silicone Conformal Coating 55 mL Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085G42TGS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_72QWNXY3HPAMZP0X8A8H
When you need to keep the quad safe from water ... accept no substitute ... Silicone Conformal Coating
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Conformal-Coating/dp/B085G42TGS/
For all your quads water proofing needs...
Yes I was meaning the little air bubbles you get in the resin while it us curing. Normally i use a hair dryer to pop the bubbles. I normally work with filling in wood so I've only ever cared about the top not having bubbles.
The mold I made did get some air bubbles in it. I can deal with those with my dremel grinder fairly easy I think.
I'm using this resin
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYK2NAG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Drilling small holes I assume drill from the top down. I'll see what I can find for vacuum pot that is bank breaking.
Thank you very much
I haven’t yet bought and used it, but I was considering Plastidip for a similar project:
https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11209-Plasti-Dip-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000LNN11G/
It’s a kind of spray-on rubber.
I'd imagine this stuff should work really well for that application. I used to use something similar at a chemical plant where I worked IT...the boards in the PC's on the floor would corrode over time from the fumes...this stuff stopped the corrosion and you can't really even notice it: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Urethane-Viscous-Coating-Temperature/dp/B000IC7ZQ2/
Funny, was just going to come back with a couple of links and Techspray was one of 'em. There's brush on bottles as well:
Acrylic Spray
(non-monitized LMGTFY links)
Oh yeah, I. feel ya. I was so PTSD about my nazgul going down, I had 2 spares. After CC, I never needed to touch my spares lol
This is what I btw, MG chemical 422C.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Urethane-Viscous-Coating-Temperature/dp/B000IC7ZQ2
Clean your circuit boards really well, mask any locations that may have heatsinks or places you don't want sealed and then spray with this conformal coat. It will make your circuits waterproof.
You can also spray over connections prior to heat shrinking, great stuff.