How to make a bong out of a Hennessy bottle:
1/5th bottles seem to work best. Get a bottle, wash it out, and set aside.
Go to a smoke shop and ask for a downstem and bowl piece. Ideally the down stem will be about 6” long. You can go longer/shorter depending on the angle your hole is made at.
Once you have your downstem, take a tape measure and measure the OSD of the glass. (Outside diameter. In my case the OSD was a hair over 1/2”, so I used a 5/8” drill bit)
Once you know the OSD of the downstem, you’ll need to go to the hardware store and get a drill bit that is at least 1mm larger than the OSD of your downstem. You need a special carbide (or diamond in some cases, ymmv depending on where you go to get the bit) drill bit that is intended for going through glass. They look a bit like this.
Drill your hole. ALWAYS WET DRILL GLASS. Always. Do it in your sink with the water running, and drill at about half-speed. It will take some time to get through the glass. The angle you hold your drill at will determine where and how the downstem sits in the bottle. About a 45 degree angle on the glass where I put my downstem works well.
Once the hole is made, rise the bottle out very well, and dry the outside. Put your downstem in the hole, and use some putty to make the air seal.
Pack a bowl, and enjoy ��
Are you using a lot of water with it? That kind of bit inherently have a limited lifetime but that can help a lot. This is what I have and I put holes in maybe 10 pots on one bit and used a good amount of water.
I drill holes in ceramic and glazed pots all the time. You just need a diamond drill bit. I got this set of 5 from Amazon really cheap and they work great: FireKingdom 5pcs 12mm 1/2" Inch Diamond Drill Bit Hole Saw for Tile Glass Marble Granite Fiberglass Ceramic Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1SAY58 Just search on YouTube for instructions. You just spray the surface with water then start drilling at an angle, then when it starts to wear a groove in the surface, you can move the drill to drill straight downward. It is a little tricky to get it started till you get the groove going (the drill wants to slide around).
If you have a drill, you can buy a diamond drill bit and drill holes in the bottom of your pot pretty easily. I just ordered these on Amazon and got them yesterday:
FireKingdom 5pcs 12mm 1/2" Inch Diamond Drill Bit Hole Saw for Tile Glass Marble Granite Fiberglass Ceramic Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1SAY58
I cut holes in 5 or 6 pots last night and it worked great. And now I can go to thrift stores and find cute containers to use :)
I have used my Irwin screw extractor bits on stuff that small. Comes with instructions, pretty easy to use if you are at all a tool user and comfortable with a drill.
Here's the Amazon link as I'm lazy: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get a diamond hole bit and make anything a pot. I am particularly fond of mugs, sugar and creamer sets, and for large pots I like soup tureens. Thrift stores and yard sales are my sources!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1SAY58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RFXVW2DPE1GK5VS7V843
They make both. Ones like these have the countersink bit wrapped around the drill but that you can slide up and down using the included Allen wrench to automatically countersink once you’ve drilled your desired depth, all in one pass.
And ones like these are for using after using a normal drill bit. Each have their own use cases.
I’ve used this one, but Irwin makes a few different sets. It doesn’t come with a tap handle so you’d need to pick that up as someone else said if you need to use the extractor (you don’t need it for reverse drill bits).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_glt_fabc_AZ2WQK7XXG1TNPP0GACB
I did a single room install a few weeks ago that required me to punch a hole up into my attic. I ended up using a box attachment for my oscillating tool: https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical-box-cutout-saw-for-oscillating-multi-tools-56666.html. Makes patching the hole super easy since you can use the punched out drywall as the perfectly sized plug.
You can then use a flexible drill bit to punch into the attic from the hole: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005M29JN0.
My first thought is to give a fish bit like this a try.
usually the thing that requires the high strength is the tension held on threads caused by the "pinching" from the head end. Since your head end is... not there any more, the bolt tension is no longer being applied to the threads. Ergo, it would in theory be a lot easier to get the bolt tip out now.
That being said, if the bolt is as rusty as that subframe... was.... then you're still going to have an uphill battle.
You can try soaking it in PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating oil for a few days, and then using a Left-Handed Drill And Extractor Set kind of thing to get that nub out. (this is what I have and it's saved me a few times.)
If you can get the rest of the subframe out, and only have this one broken bolt, then it might still be salvageable. Were I you, I'd try to get the rest of the hardware out before giving up.
May also want to consider adding a small MAPP gas torch to your arsenal. You want to heat the "nut" end, not the "bolt" end, as much as is possible. Going forward, impact tools might be good for you as well -- the vibration you get from an impact is more likely to "rattle" the rust loose, as opposed to a high amount of force on a huge breaker bar or whatever. The huge force can be more likely to break the bolt.
I got my pin vice on Amazon. Not sure which size I use because they aren't marked, but it's in the kit.
CML Supply Mini Micro Drill Bit Set and Pin Vise Chuck 31 pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RJE3X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cBWxBb0B08864
-Do I need a primer to paint MDF?
Yes
-Should I use glue or screws? Either way, what glue and what screws?
Depends on how much weight your looking to hold. Since I'm paranoid about stuff falling apart, I always pre-drill with a countersink drill bit (non-affiliated amazon link here), glue up, and use Deckmate Deck Screws to secure it.
The glue will hold, and the screws will secure it in place.
I would suggest priming/painting before assembling. Its hard to get into those inside corners once everything is put together.
The best part of MDF is its relatively cheap, so if you make a mistake, just start over and learn from it.
I would also HIGHLY suggest using a respirator (you should use one at all times when working with wood) and setting up some sort of dust collection. MDF is very very messy and can pretty much be like powder, especially when/if you use a router.
It looks like you were driving the screw too deep so that the V-shaped head was causing the wood to split. The fix for this is to countersink the hole so that the head will sit flush with the wood. They have two in one bits that will predrill and countersink at the same time for speed, otherwise you can buy just a countersink bit and drill the pilot hole separately (pilot hole first, then put tip of countersink in the pilot hole to have a perfectly centered counter sink).
Alternatively, you could use panhead screws that won't sink below the wood.
This is what I bought to make some holes in hard ceramic tiles: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GNC8RI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They worked very well. I tested them on a spare piece of tile first, and was surprised how easily they bore in. Good luck!
I wanted an extension cord inside my cabinet (the end that everything plugs into). It plugs into an external power strip.
I just drilled the hole larger. The hole that the Arcade1Up power supply cable is supposed to go through. Bought one of the cheapest hole expander drill bits I could find on amazon (some of the bits are quite expensive). This is the one I bought; looks like it's about 5 bucks more, now, than what I originally paid, though.
I'm not a fan of just ditching the panel. There are green and red LEDs on the the parts I used to mod the cabinet (encoder boards, audio amp, etc.)... without the panel, the LEDs reflects off the wall that the cabinet is up against and then there's a glow in the back of the cabinet that I don't like. I figure it keeps dust out, too.
I just used this set for the first time on Sunday. Got the bolt out easy peasy. i was so happy. Its a little pricy but paid itself off already.
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I was going to recommend Irwin ones, both the screw kind and the bigger ones with a hex-end on them. For rounded bolts, I'm a fan of the Gearwrench bolt-biter sockets, though. I haven't been too happy with the Irwin bolt extractors, their screw extractors are my go-to though.
Your link is kinda broken there though, bud:
That's a security pentalobe. It's presence means they don't want you messing with it...so maybe you shouldn't. But if you insist: correct tools.
The reason I asked is the 5 pointed torx bits (on ali) or next day from Amazon $10 for set would probably work out (even if not intended). Included example below ... (remove space between "." and com)
https://www.amazon. com/Ram-Pro-Point-Security-Tamper-Driver/dp/B01IUCONNY
Those are actually some slightly more difficult materials to drill, but you can do it! Both tile and plexiglass are prone to cracking or shattering when you drill, so you'll want to make sure you're using the right bits. For tile, you'll likely want a carbide-tipped masonry bit like this one and they make specialty bits for plastic as well like this.
Take your time, don't press very hard, and let the drill do all the work for you. You may want to start with a smaller hole first, and then move up to a larger bit until you get to the size of your fastener, since taking out more material at once will make it more likely to chip or break.
As for fasteners, since you said you're attaching this to the wall, you'll want to know what the structure of the wall is made of. If the wall is tile, and you're in the US, it's likely drywall or plaster underneath. I don't know about construction in other areas. You'll know it's drywall if you get a white powder coming out of the hole once you're through the tile. Drywall and plaster aren't hugely strong, so you may want to look at wall anchors. There are lots of styles of wall anchors, and they're not very expensive. You'll want to estimate the weight of whatever you're hanging and then double or triple that number to choose your anchors and make sure it definitely won't fall.
Lastly, be careful drilling into a wall, since it's possible there's electrical wires or plumbing hidden behind the wall, and damaging those can be a real problem. Again, go slow, let the drill do the work, and wear gloves and eye protection. You can do this!
get one of them step bits they are cheap
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Do you also use those long flex augers blind?
Get one
Just a safety note: using an actual drill, or even a dremel, on a tiny miniature that you're holding in your hand is not recommended. It's too easy for that spinning bit to slip and punch a hole in your finger.
Try a pin vise instead. It's hand operated, which affords you much finer control. The possibility of slipping still exists -- I've poked myself a couple times with mine -- but since the bit wasn't under power it didn't do much actual damage.
The bits that come with that will have no trouble at all with plastic, resin, or pewter. I did have one snap off the one time I tried to drill a pinning hole in a brass mini though. Brass is tough.
These drill bits will make it easy to add holes, and they're affordable and effective. Here's a video of how to do it without breaking your pot.
When you get that piece extracted take it to a hardware store and youll be able to find what you need.
Itll be something like m8x1.25 - maybe 20mm long.
Maybe even m6x1.00 -20mm long.
Easy out set with drill bit can be found here, dont have to get this exact one, just one similar. :
IRWIN Screw Extractor/ Drill Bit Set, 10-Piece (11119) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9P9HHFTJVMD1E9EMEFX0
These drill bits are designed to be turned in the left hand ( counter clock wise ) position. Sometimes the drill bit alone will bite the fastener enough to turn it out.
Be sure to use the proper size, and drill as straight and centered as possible.
Can start with smallest drill bit and slowly make the hole slightly larger if there is enough room.
Here a how to video: https://youtu.be/SMrDYJvY0Ts
Left handed drill bits all the way. I know they almost sound like a joke... Those things saved the day when I worked for a Harley Davidson service department.
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Cobalt-64-Inch-Assortment-30520/dp/B0002NYBJG?th=1
You have to open the control box under the front foot pad. It's not hard to get to at all, however the screws on the box cover are those stupid 5-point Torx security screws with a bump in the middle so you need specialty bits to open it.