Keep in mind that you may not need pre-installed EV charging. After some discussions with my building's manager, I was able to change my assigned spot in the parking garage to one that is next to a wall outlet (NEMA 5-20), and I'm charging from that using the Mobile Connector. Using the 5-20 adapter, I can usually get ~ 6 mph of added range while charging, so over night I can easily add 70 miles of range. That's more than enough to cover the vast majority of my local driving. On the rare days where I drive more or charge less and don't get caught up by the following morning, within a day (or two, at most) I'm back to "full" every morning.
To determine pricing, I used the 5-15 adapter that came with the MC and an inline power meter for a few months to determine average usage. Using local electricity prices and my typical (pre-COVID-19) driving patterns, I was using on average a little under $25/mo of electricity, and so we agreed I would pay $30 each month.
So, in a nutshell, if you see a facility you like but it doesn't have EV charging, you might check if something similar can be worked out.
I think what you're looking for is Watts (W), which is a measure of power.
power (W) = current (amperes) • voltage (volts)
You can also figure out the Watt-hours (Wh), which will tell you how long a power bank that can deliver x Watts will last before needing to be recharged. Watt-hours is (to me, at least) a more meaningful way of understanding power and time than mAh, which doesn't tell you anything about voltage, without which you can't determine power.
If you really want to know how much power your Surface Pro 3 (which I used to own, before upgrading to an SP4, and then an SPX) uses, get one of these, and measure it under various workloads:
Power banks like the Zendure will use a lot of power to charge, so don't skimp out on a charger. If you buy junk, it won't last, won't do what you need, you'll be forced to replace it, and you'll wind up spending more than if you bought what you should have in the first place.
Get yourself a Wattmeter like this one and see if current is spiking high enough on your PS to trip the 15 amp (assumed) breaker.
If it’s not, then something else plugged in on the circuit is pushing it over the edge.
The main limitation I had found with kill-a-watt type display meters on Amazon was that their max current rating was 10A. That made them too close to the limit for AEH applicances like boilers, ovens and ACs. Seems to be the case even now from a quick search.
I ended up going DIY using a 100A-capable power meter module similar to this fixed in a 16A extension box like this. My goal was to measure total house load at the board, but it's also useful for other devices. Required a bit of sawing and drilling. If you aren't into DIY, buy the module and approach a local electrician to get it fitted inside a socket box.
I don't know anything about wifi smart switches. But if you plan to measure AEH appliances, ensure they're 16A capable.
The i3-8100 is a 65W processor and given what you've described as the workload, I doubt you'll be hitting the limit of that 150W PSU. In other words, you'll be just fine running 3-4 VMs with this hardware setup, Just don't do any crazy CPU intensive tasks (like a stress test that pegs the cpu @ 100%) or you'll come close to that power limit.
That said, you're not really giving yourself that much room if you ever decided to move this system to a larger case and started slapping a few 3.5" drives in it, so keep that in mind when considering up-sizing in the future.
P.S - Do you yourself a favor and get one of these bad boys so you can monitor the power draw. Kill-A-Watt monitor (Amazon)
Edit: Added link to Kill-A-Watt
To figure it out, you measure how much power the well draws times how long it is on. You can use a data logger for this.
You are at risk of underpowering the cards ( just as bad ), the pop comes from pulling too much power out of the wall not the PSU. Get a cheap one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8? and see how much you are pulling currently
If you replaces all your light bulbs with LEDs, it leaves you with basically 2 things: refrigerators and AC's. There is the water heater too, and you could replace the heating element if you suspect that. There are plug in amp meters like this (out of stock), but you may be able to find something similar in the market here or ali express if you have to go that route. Most will give you stats like peak and average use, so plug something in for a few hours to get an idea.
That is the recepticle type you would need, but keep in mind just because only one thing is plugged into a receptacle, does not mean that it is the only thing on that circuit. Does the manual say anything else about a total amperage used by the device other than requesting a 20A circuit?
You more than likely have more than more receptacle on one of your 20A circuits, so using this device and another at the same time could trip the breaker and/or draw more current through your wiring than its rated for. You mentioned above that you have 12ga wire, so that's correct for a 20A circuit.
Depending on how many things are already on that circuit, and how much current your device actually pulls, you may need to have a dedicated 20A circuit run, provided you have enough service current to cover it, which looks iffy based on the picture on your panel.
You can always get a device like this to check what the device pulls: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_6VT4WE9WCX7SN7AWWSH4
I live in a 2b/2b condo ~900 sqft in North County. I have a gas stove / oven for cooking and a Nest thermostat that ensures the A/C or heater is not running while people are away at work. I don't do anything out of the ordinary to conserve energy like turning off the lights whenever I leave a room. My wife will leave the TV on while cooking just for background noise.
The only time in the last 3 years we used over 500 kwh in a month was when we left for two weeks around the holidays and forgot to change the thermostat so the heater was basically running all the time.
Try buying a watt meter to identify where the bulk of your energy usage is coming from. L
Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D94BGWB20Z7YBN61EE7P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got this power meter to see how many Onewheels I could plug into my 1000W gas generator.
On the XR I've only ever seen it draw 220W unless it was full with the green light on.
I guess you could attach a current meter at the power cable and measure the results with both firmware, but that might be too much work.
Somwthing like this:
I'm not too familiar with logging voltage, that might be something you should research.
you can do the math, as silverbandit0096 did for you, or you can buy a watt counter and record exactly how much power your stuff is using, in case you need more proof than just math.
for example, https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B0777H8MS8/
the math will be accurate though.
You can try a cheap usage meter like this one to measure how many amps it's actually using:
If something is defective, the compressor is going out, etc. it could be pulling more amps than it advertises.
I'd suggest you pick one of these up to be precise about your specific machine. Also, go around the house and unplug anything you don't use regularly. You'd be surprised how many vampire electronics people have.
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B0777H8MS8/
You plug the device into it and it measures both the amperage and real power(wattage) sometimes the latter is more useful.
as has been stated, you really need actual load your systems are drawing. get a basic kill-o-watt meter
then as others have said, use the run time calculators available to determine load run time.
The voltage in Norway is 240v. I used a plug-in electricity meter (or plug load meter) to read the wattage & ampere.
Here's one from Amazon
Here's the exact one from a Norwegian store
I'll update when the server is up and running.
I just know from a video I watched that the tale tell sign of dyscalcula is how fast you can count the number of objects on a screen. So I figured I'd start there.
I do have a jug of saline solution.
This is the one I grabbed:
gotta buy digital power extension or plug in monitor
here's a link for reference if you're interested in buying this kind of stuff
Or something similar for the best/most accurate measurements.
You can also use something like HWmonitorx64 which will show you current voltages of components in the system to give a general idea but it isn't 100% accurate and depending on the system may not be able to gather power readings from certain components.
I'm not an electrician but to roughly estimate your setup power draw, go to pcpartpicker.com. Enter your build and it will estimate for you.
Another way is to use wattage meter like this one.
You did not mention WHAT "studio monitors" you are using? Assuming they are active since you also did not mention any kind of amplifier?
The very first thing to do would be to ensure that the active monitor speaker power cords are running from the SAME circuit as your computer. The easiest way to do this would be to use a common "power strip" from the wall power outlet, and plug your computer, speakers, and EVERYTHING else in your system that uses mains power.
It is unlikely that your entire system draws enough power to overload a single circuit/outlet, but you can use something like a plug-in meter to measure how much power each gadget draws.
Plug-in Electricity Usage Monitor Watt Meter
Second, you could consider using some kind of optical (TOSLINK) connection to break any electrical "ground loop" that may be contributing to your noise problem.
If it uses 1000 watts per hour, that is 1 kilowatt per hour. If you want to see how much power your pc is actually using, you could use a power meter such as this one on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0iM2EbYZHGW8D
As stated by others, it is highly unlikely that your pc would use the full 1000 watts. The rating of the power supply is how much it can supply, not how much it will use.
Kilowatt/hr output measurement plugs are cheap, plug light in that and plug that into wall, most have other settings like how much it is costing per hr etc
Could help reduce electric costs if you have a peak/off peak price.
Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_FNxCDbWDCVFY8
Back in the day when I did that kind of stuff as part of my job, I would do runtime X2 and add a little more. Not exact, but a quick “rough number.”
This is a nice tool to see what your gear is doing in real time....
Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HZpJDb26YPW33
Another tidbit: I tried using a power meter to get a better sense of real time power consumption for each device and everything looked normal. When the PC was plugged into it, it would draw typically between 75 - 175 W under various low loads. Once I launched a game, however, the circuit breaker tripped, even without anything other than the PC and monitor plugged in (no laptop, TV, space heater, lamp, etc.).
You can use a device like this:
Test each device plugged in and see if anything is using a high amount of electricity.
Yeah, I definitely wouldn't recommend taking a multimeter to that kind of connector. Dead shorts on a lithium pack are no joke.
The cheaper ones like this aren't very robust, but here's a power meter that might meet your needs, if the included LCD with your kit doesn't display voltage. If you go with something like this, put it between the battery and the controller, and it'll track power consumption as well as voltage. The display gets washed out in sunlight though, so it's not great for trying to keep an eye on while riding.
An outlet measuring tool like this TS-836A Plug Power Meter Energy Voltage Amps Electricity Usage Monitor,Reduce Your Energy Costs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E945SJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LNZiAb3N0ZPDM
Some battery backups provide this built-in, otherwise you can get a plug that sits behind the battery backup in the elec socket and shows how much you are using. Like this here
You can't. You can rig up something and use an amp probe or buy a plug-in power meter but what you're asking for doesn't exist, at least not cheaply.
Honestly, i just use a Kill-a-wattVery similar to the one in the link.
When you say "safety fuse", is this something in your PC or something in your home?
If it's something in your home, you should get one of these to test what your computer is drawing from the wall: https://www.amazon.com/TS-836A-Energy-Voltage-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B00E945SJG
It's possible that your drawing too many amps from the wall.
Simple things first. Change the bulb. If it doesn't solve the problem, the next step is to verify fluctuating voltage. Get something like this:
and plug it into a socket in the room. Can I assume that the light and the outlets are on the same circuit?
This device should answer the question about your room's voltage.
A $16 kill-a-watt clone is expensive, or something else? If your laptop comes with battery software you can check for free there maybe.
@ .15Kw/Hr I'm looking at about 29.00/Month.
I use this to watch my wattage and how much I'm being charged.
Everyone else commmented on the obvious toxic situation you are in. I am just gonna try to help you with a way to quatify how much electricity you are using.
plug this in, and then plug in what you want to measure. You can do some easy math and figure how much electricity anything uses and do some basic math to calculate how much that cost if you have an electric bill laying around.
This is the best solution, you just need to adjust for your PSUs efficiency to get your total power draw.
HWmonitor has a field for CPU package power draw, GPU-Z will show GPU power draw. Not totally certain how accurate those measurements are though.
ya, I really want to use my kill-a-watt on a window unit in my house for a 48 hour span, just to see what the start surge would be.
These little babies are really useful to measure power draw: http://www.amazon.com/TS-836A-Energy-Voltage-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B00E945SJG/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1461221932&sr=1-3&keywords=kill+a+watt+electricity+usage
OP, don't just blindly buy these things to save electricity. Most modern devices draw very little (< 1W) power when turned off.
DO yourself a favor and buy a simple power meter, this one is $15 and is the one I own. It's super simple to use, just plug it into an outlet and plug something into it. It'll tell you how many watts it draws, and it will even keep track of how much energy (kWh) it's used, which is super useful for things like computers or refrigerators that have non-constant power draw.
Then, after you've done this, worry about dealing with things that are drawing power. Some things might be, but I know when I went around my apartment, almost nothing was drawing power that surprised me. My TV, computer, monitors, speakers, lights, all at 0W when off. Even my printer, which I had previously tried to keep "off" when I wasn't using it, was drawing a negligible amount of power while idle (< 1W).
If you do have something that draws a lot of "ghost power", it's probably only one or two things. Then maybe get those wireless outlet switches for those devices.
In the sub 100w total usage range, I'm comfortable with just the exhaust fan blowing air at/over it in its current configuration. But, I'll monitor close. I had the temp up to 149*F open-air in passive mode, while doing my 'burn in' / stability testing. Currently, in its Bucket design heatsink temp is in the ~low to mid 80s range, which is pretty cool.
Power Meter $14.94 shipped.
Dell R710 with Xeon 5570's, 36GB, 3 drives
Dell Optiplex 390 with an i5-2400, 8GB, 2 drives
Lenovo ix4-300d with 4 drives
Dell PowerConnect 2724
Total draw is between 260w and 290w. Runs about $30/mo.
I recommend getting something like this, they tell you a lot about what is cost efficient: http://www.amazon.com/TS-836A-Energy-Voltage-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B00E945SJG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1436157985&sr=8-2&keywords=power+meter&pebp=1436157993528&perid=1QHRGGV60XARJBBCE1PH
If you have budget left, I know I can find benchmarks of this online. But please buy a kill-a-watt to check the wattage your PC will output. Preferably when stress testing both the CPU and GPU with furmark, intel burn test, OCCT. You might be surprised at how little this system pulls from the wall. I estimate between 450-500W depending on how high your overclocks are.
I suggest windforce cards a lot and I am slightly afraid to suggest a 650W PSU despite the fact that the benchmarks show that 2 GTX970s pull 439 watts when in full stress. Add a 111-140 for the CPU and like 5 for the HDD/SSD and you get to a roudhly 550W.
The kill-a-watt can also be used for other stuff! So not a terrible buy, handy tool to have.