I bought this Hakko station for my small electronics soldering. It works fine for me.
For someone who buys a lot of cheap shit, I wouldn't cheap out on a torch. Get the GT8000 Bigshot for only 41$ and you won't have to worry about a shitty flame and it breaking. This thing is the most recommending torch for a reason.
ENGINEER SS-02- it's a 'high end' solder sucker. Jammed itself within one hour of using it. The tip is metal and hot solder got stuck in it and cooled. Could not melt it again to get it out. Was so upset because everyone said it's the last solder sucker you'll ever buy.
My advice? Buy a better solder sucker. I tried for a while with the cheap plastic sucker pump that came with my cheap-as-fuck soldering iron and I just thought I was bad at desoldering but in reality that plastic pump with the hard tip is a piece of junk. I got the Engineer SS-02 that so many people recommend and it's so much better it's nuts. I can actually desolder now.
On the other hand, if you're not in a rush you could also try to find someone with a desoldering station who could remove it for you way easier. Shipping it to someone else and then shipping it back would cost as much as the SS-02 though
I believe it's a Blazer GT8000 Big Shot Butane torch. The pic doesn't have any markings on it but it looks very similar to the Big Shot. You can buy it on Amazon here for $100. Torch works very well and is refillable with butane gas.
I have the blazer big shot and I’ve loved it so far. Got it used from a buddy who got a new one of the same model about a year ago (he had it for I think 1.5-2 years before that?) and I have never had a single issue with it.
Should be fine operationally. Just not gonna click after being melted.. What kind of iron did you use? If it melted it out, I'm guessing you have an $8 iron in one of those kits. They're problematic because they just go to max heat all the time.. The weller wlc100 40-watt was my iron for like 15 years and worked just fine for this kind of bigger stuff (and is like 40 bucks).. Temp control is crucial: https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=soldering+iron+weller&qid=1597869810&sr=8-5
I used this cheap one here for $20 [link]
The kit has everything you need including solder and a solder sucker. It’s not the best quality but it worked great for me. I didn’t want to spend a ton on something I wouldn’t use a lot. I did get a backlight mod for my original screen. However after soldering the speaker I think I will wait till I have more experience. It’s much more involved and I don’t think my skills are good enough for that yet. I was able to use the soldering iron to fix the original screens vertical lines easily in a few minutes.
One thing I do suggest is to have another person or one of those helping hand clips for soldering. My solder job didn’t turn out that good. If I had waited for my spouse to help hold the wires or got the helping hand it would have gone better.
The speaker wires are very forgiving. You can do a really bad job and it still works.
I used one of these for years professionally, 40 hours a week. You'll want to replace that tip with an ST7 tip for electronics work but replacement tips are easy to find and cheap.
The switch pins won't come off, but you need to be careful to not lift the soldering pad if you want to reuse the pcb. Still, that's hard to do with the solder sucker itself. I've desoldered numerous pcb's with this guy: [link]
Just take your time and don't force anything.
Soldering hasn't been a thing in the trade for a long time and it outlawed by the NEC. Try /r/AskElectronics
That said I'm pretty good at soldering and used to solder surface and through-hole electronic components. The big thing is practice. You need a good unit with the tip for your application and a decent solder and flux.
My favorite unit is the Hakko FX-888D with a variety of nozzle, flat, and chip tips. Go to YouTube and watch some videos.
Yeah no problem. This is by far one of the best desoldering pumps I've ever used. [link]
Blazer Big Shot.
Does anyone have a recommended soldering iron and desolder pump? I am looking at this or this. For background, I'm in the electronics field and would probably use it for some projects. I'm not sure the extra features of the Hakko are worth.
I got this soldering iron kit last summer and it working well enough, I'm still really bad at soldering though, I need to practice more, here is a link to a logic analyzer that Ben eater links on his website on one of the 8 bit computer pages
In terms of the 6502 upgrades, I'd recommend for sure doing the 6551 serial upgrade early on, it's pretty helpful
but in the end you get what you pay for non annealed china glass, her tube is small is enough to convert with an adapter imho. adapter plus banger from dhgate maybe 20-30$ torch 40 at bb&b. i would honestly buy a big shot on amazoninstead. im not a fan of the bb&b torches the pizo ignitor ALWAYS fails after about 9 months causing you to have to return and get a new one id rather have something last 4-6years. i have had my blazer gb2001 for 8 years now still lights everytime.
What the hell that's way too expensive for a soldering iron. You can get a good one for like 10-20 dollars. Here's the top amazon result to get you started: Full Set Vastar 60w 110v Soldering Iron Kit - Adjustable Temperature, 5pcs Different Tips, Desoldering Pump, Stand, anti-static Tweezers and Additional Solder Tube for Variously Repaired Usage [link]
I bought this cheap kit off Amazon and used it to desolder and then solder at least 200 switches.
It works quite well and you can adjust the temperature which is important.
The solder sucker included also works well enough, but is prone to clog up so I would empty it once in awhile and make sure that the tube isn't clogged full of dry solder.
Do you plan on doing plenty of soldering in the future or is this a one off job? A decent soldering iron makes a night and day difference when it comes to working on electronics. I've used the cheap $10 ones you can buy from hardware stores and they've always ended up being difficult to work with.
I'd recommend a weller WES51. They're a tad bit pricy, but you can get interchangeable tips and it's temperature controlled. I've had mine for 2 years now and it's absolutely fantastic.
You'll probably want to use some thin rosin core lead solder. You should be able to buy this at your local hardware store.
If you plan on doing any sort of reworking, copper wick is super useful for removing solder. A cheap solder sucker is also nice to have for removing larger blobs of solder.
Weller WES51 Amazon link
I recently purchased a Weller WES51 analog soldering station on amazon for $97, well worth the price! I use it primarily for soldering wires to small PCBs so it should work for your uses!
There is a pretty basic soldering kit on amazon that I have been using for the last few months and it has been amazing! Ill link it to you below.
I bought a cheap soldering kit from Amazon for $17 [link]
Also a Dremel tool for sanding surfaces and cutting plastic [link]
I‘ll be in Berlin in two weeks and can bring my soldering iron and desoldering Station to fix this with you.
If you want to do it yourself you only need a good soldering station with temperature regulation from Weller or Hakko. A simple high quality solder sucker (I use this one) should be enough for a single switch and it’s not really hard to do it. Just search on YouTube there are plenty of great soldering and desoldering tutorials.
If you plan to desolder more in the future you should definitely consider getting a desoldering station. The one I got from Amazon is not so expensive and if you need to desolder a whole board it saves a lot of time and hassle.
Aaah gotcha, I see that now. Yeah that is kind of strange that they're all off like that.
As far as the Dremel goes, it's a great tool to have as it can do so many different things. Here is a Wen brand rotary tool that's very similar to Dremel for only $20 on Amazon. If it's something you're not going to use constantly, there's no point in spending the $100+ on Dremel when this will work. As Adam Savage said, buy the cheapest version of the tool you need. If you use it enough to break it, then buy the good one.
Look at the WEN kit on amazon. I got one last week for $20 and it came with the snake attachment to let you use it like a pen in your hand. Takes the same tools as a Dremel and even has speed control.
this one on Amazon price can go up and down you might be able to find it as low as 10 bucks.
I love this one! $33 on Amazon.
This Hakko iron is super nice and of higher build quality than a Weller.
Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) [link]
I use this Weller and have no complaints. I keep it set at about mid-range (500F):
For hobbyist projects, I use leaded solder. It's so much easier to work with than lead-free varieties. A no-clean, flux core solder means you don't have to scrub the board afterwards, and the flux-core adds flux as you solder so you don't need a bottle of flux for most projects, and everything flows nicely all the time. I use Kester 245, but that's mostly because I get the expired rolls from work. Anything similar (63/37, leaded, no-clean) should work the same.
Heres an amazon link just to make it easier
The black is $41
Can't help you with your first question. But I will say from experience working computers and gaming headsets. Take lots of pictures. Lots and lots you will need a diagram to get it back together. If you have repeated or similar colors of wire it is best to take some masking tape and label them and label the other side on your hand drawn digram.
Second don't clip the wires that will introduce interference in the system when you put them back together and it adds more failure points.
Unsoldering them is your best bet this the pictures and digram should let you put them all back just fine
Heat your iron then press the iron to the solder blob until the wire comes out repeat as many times as needed until all wires are Free.
I have this kit it's cheep it works it's not for pros but it will do this job and be good for occasional use.
This is the battery and holder I got on eBay:
This is the soldering kit I got, seems like it has anything I’d ever need as a beginner soldering apprentice
I was super nervous going into it but I watched like 3 videos and a couple videos on unsoldering and it was a piece of cake.
Picked up one of these awhile back and it's been great. You'll probably want to grab a selection of tips too.
It was a different brand name but I think this is literally the same device as the one I have. Same color and everything.
To add to the list....Here's what I recommend for beginners...
AI Synthesis is top on this list. Excellent documentation, how to video, and great support.
Trogotronic is usually recommended for power but I also like their VCA. The nice thing about trogotronic for power is you can start with the basic 3u kit for $98 and when you are ready to expand its just another $28 for a board.
Befaco is another great option. They have a lot of modules and great instructions as well.
Last but not least is Music Thing Modular.
Those companies all have one thing I really appreciate - Detailed build instructions. As a beginner one thing that frustrated me was some companies expected you to understand how to read schematics and provided very little support. Also, dont skimp out on the equipment you will need to solder. A cheap soldering iron will frustrate you and make you think you dont know how to solder. I finally ended up with a Hakko soldering iron. Take care of the ips and it will last you a long time.
No. You want an iron that you can control the temp on. Those plug and play ones are horrible.
That's a decent starter.
Did he over push the cable on the TV's end as well?
Anyway this type of console repair is easy for soldering beginners. You just need basic tools, desoldering braid, flux, a solder sucker and patience. If you want to make your life easier get an Engineer SS-02 solder sucker for a tad more money.
EDIT: So this happens regardless of what cable you test it with? Do you get the buzz with a different device?
Haha I don’t live in Canada and I got mine at a local shop, but the go to here is the blazer gt8000 [link]
A friend of mine on here who has dabbed much longer and more told me he believes that to be one of the best of the best.
Thanks for the response. I will order the reds then as I have only seen great things about them online. I did see the teals in a few comparisons online ( I believe they are called 2.0s and reds are 4.0s) and some even said the reds were stiffer but on paper I do think teals are like 5-10g more if I am not mistaken. I feel the safe bet is get the reds. I will order them and buy a soldering tool off amazon. I will probably have to buy some new mouse feet too. I have never soldered before so I am very inexperienced in this and not very knowledgeable. I did see some soldering kits off amazon for $20-$25 but heard any soldering kit worth it is really in the $100+ range. Would a $20 kit like this get the job done - [link] ? I am not trying to spend as much as I did on the mouse to replace the switches but will gladly spend $40 and some time to potentially fix this problem.
$ 1K is plenty, but as other answers have you realizing, you need to know what you want and you need a plan, if you want to stretch that money as far as it will go.
Personally I would avoid AliExpress. Tayda has excellent prices and with very few exceptions, everything that I have bought from them has been totally fine. I like Mouser for anything I can’t get from Tayda.
Some places you can save money and be ok, other places cutting corners will save you a few pennies but you will likely regret it in the long run. You can’t avoid an initial investment in tools and basic supplies and that is not a place to cheap out.
You don’t need a lot to start out. I’ve used this model soldering iron for decades: Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station [link], this is good solder and a pound will last you forever: KESTER SOLDER 24-6337-0027 Solder Wire, 63/37 SN/PB, 183°C, 1LB [link]. You’ll need wire strippers, little cutting pliers, good needle-nose pliers.
One place you can save money, especially when you are starting out, is in your rack/case. I built mind out of scrap wood and spent literally zero $. My rails are Keva blocks my kids outgrew. Likewise your first power supply. Look up the “MFOS Wall Wart” PSU. if you want to see if the bare-bones DIY approach is for you, you can build one of those from scratch on stripboard for about six bucks, match it with a good AC wall wart and that will support your first several models. You also could as spend just a bit more and make one on a PCB from AI Synthesis and see if that approach suits you better.
Pots, knobs, jacks, and cables always add up. There’s only so little you can spend and still have a satisfying product but you probably won’t have to spend very much at least to know how far you want to take this.
Should be no capacitor problem here, as the cap goes on the tone pot not the volume pot.
You can break the volume pot while soldering stuff to the back for grounding if you really make a hash of it. Soldering to the terminals is pretty fool proof.
I actually love doing this kind of stuff. Do you have a friend who dabbles in electronics or otherwise knows how to solder? You can teach yourself from YouTube or I seem to remember Seymour Duncan had a good video.
If you buy a soldering iron get a good one with a stand and a sponge tray like this one. Without a stand you will burn yourself and the table. You wet the sponge and wipe the iron tip on it to get waste off.
Nice work dude. Maybe you have a Dremel already and just didn’t feel like using it, but if not this Wen kit is awesome, especially for $20. I have some really nice Dremel gear but these days I just grab the Wen for small jobs like trimming a mouse shell. It cuts through plastic like butter.
If you're just starting get something cheap. No need to go all out. You might ruin the kit as long as it's cheap it's fine
This kit I've purchased in the past when I was still learning. Temperature controlled, has a bit of solder and other little essentials
If you want something better I can send you links. But you dont need something expensive to learn.
I also recommend you try soldering on something else first before you attempt anything risky.
Anbes Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers [link]
You could try getting a cheap soldering kit? This one is $17 though
You have two options aside from a de-soldering iron:
I just picked up a Weller soldering station at my local hardware store. Seems to work pretty well for me
If you are doing vintage gaming, you might as well pick up the skills to do it yourself. It's a really painless process and very well documented, plus a decent quality but basic soldiering iron is not expensive.
The best $17 bucks you'll spend. Works extremely well. I was able to desolder a 75% in around 30 mins....no idea the longevity of it, but at this price I'll just buy a new one when I need it, lol
i've never tried a split board before, but would def. give it a shot. I've heard once you go that route you usually fall in love haha.
Yeah I had to get a new (smaller) tip for my Hakko solder station, but if you do any soldering to the point where that would be worth it, I can't recommend it enough. It's amazing
100%, cheapie but goodie. The WEN rotary tool w/ extension. Then, get a huge kit of accessories to go with it. Have had mine for years and dollar for dollar I’m very impressed.
On Amazon the Wen 2305 and up have pretty good reviews. Same with the Black And Decker one you suggested.
WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft [link]
Are the collets universal?
Thanks for the help.
Also available on Amazon.
It's a bit more, but hey guaranteed shipping timeframe so it's worth it to me. Thanks for the tip, I've been using wick and about to do a 104 key, let's hope this baby lasts through that.
> You need a $120+ soldering iron
That's not necessarily true. This Weller is normally over $120, but it can be found for cheaper (like on Amazon.)
EEVblog, the author of the video linked above, even recommends (on a budget) this Hakko ripoff that even takes Hakko tips. Super cheap and is temperature controlled. You can find it cheaper than its Amazon listing too.
Thanks! Just keep the damn thing moving! When a rotating bit sits in one place to long it will create happy little accidents.
edit: that particular tool is on amazon.
I purchased some spare titanium screens and a quad torch from Dynavap. I spent a good hour yesterday reading about torches. I'd like to pick up one of those creme' brulee torches from Bed Bath and Beyond this weekend too. Reddit says they're exactly the same as those pricey torches on Amazon and they heat you up in about 2 seconds.
I bought this kit off Amazon for $16. Not super high quality, but I've used it for several builds with no problem.
Its never too late to learn how to solder, if its only a few switches that are like this you can buy some Gateron switches individually or in a 10 pack and replace the bad ones.
A decent soldering kit that comes with everything you need can be bought at amazon for less than 20 bucks, with a solder sucker included and if you want even easier solder removal you can get one of these desoldering iron pumps - [link]
There's plenty of switch desoldering tutorials over at /r/mechanicalkeyboards, and if you need help just make a post and I'm sure plenty of people will be glad to help you out.
The Big Shot is the highest quality hand torch that I've ever used or seen anywhere, they're incredible. It's on Amazon for $53 right now. Unless the size is a huge problem, you wont find a better torch. If you do get a Big Shot the red piece of plastic that goes over the fuel knob is meant for traveling, I've known wayyy to many people who threw them out.
If the Big Shot is too big then go with the Big Buddy. Vetor are straight up relabeled Chinese designed torches, companies like Newport and Blazer at least design their own.
If you can afford it get a proper soldering stations with at least a power switch and a basic control knob (Weller makes decent products).
My WLC-100 apparently goes from 5-40 watts and the knob is labeled 1-5 (so I guess it's 8W per marking). Amazon is selling the same one for $40.
I have done a bit of soldering and recently used it to reflow the solder on the IC pins in a gbc cartridge. Since I set it 2-3 usually you probably want at least a 20 watt iron.
If you only intend to solder once or twice, any cheap soldering iron on Amazon will do. The Engineer SS-02 is recommended by some for a desoldering pump. If you have a bit more leeway, this desoldering iron is reportedly quite good (since it can heat the solder and then suck it away, all within the same tool)
Get yourself one of these soldering kits. It has everything you need to get started with soldering (though I recommend using solder wick instead of the pump for desoldering.) Get some Bourns 500k push-pull pots (I recently bought a pair for $16 from an Amazon marketplace seller) for both controls. You could wire them up to coil split each pickup independently (assuming they have 4 conductors) as well as to bypass the controls entirely, have one pickup active all the time, etc. They're incredibly versatile.
Also, some new pickups and a Switchcraft jack will help immensely.
Since you've already got people offering help, I won't feel so bad saying that you should learn to solder. It's a wonderfully useful skill and fun.
Here is a great starter kit from Amazon for $20. It even comes with some solder.
You could probably find a used or new, cheap PCB on /r/mechmarket to practice. I just built my own, new 60%. It was harder than I thought but also not terribly difficult. Learning how to desolder (because I'm an idiot and messed up a lot of things) was a more difficult process. Again, not terribly difficult. You could always buy a soldering practice kit on Amazon.
I would suggest you buy a good solder sucker to make your life easier. I recommend this one. I also tried this thing per suggestions on /r/mk but found it disappointing. It doesn't suck out all the solder cleanly when I tried it.
I don't know about the quality or differences between the new and old QFRs or LED process. Some LEDs are separate and are independent of the switches, so you don't have to worry about that. Some are in the PCB themselves, so you don't have to worry about that again. Then there are cherry MX RGB switches which I know absolutely nothing about.
I've got through about 8 keyboard builds/rebuilds with a generic $20 kit off Amazon and it's still holding up. Like, this'd be fine if you're not willing to drop $100 on something you may rarely use. Or most of the cheap adjustable ones on there.
Check out this guide, watch a couple soldering tutorials, switch soldering is some of the most basic stuff.
While it isn't possible to replace the switches without soldering, the solder job is a lot simpler than it seems. Just watch a good tutorial and get a decent 20 dollar solder kit off amazon and you'll be set. It's a good skill to learn. This solder set is amazing and actually comes with a solder sucker which you need to replace a switch anyways. I've used it hundreds of times and it's held up very well.
I bought the cheapest soldering kit on Amazon and it's lasted me through like 9 builds/re-builds so far. Still working fine. Something like this. I don't know exactly how accurate the temperature dial is, but it seems to be about right on mine.
Buying quality's never a bad idea, but you really don't have to if you're not using it a ton.
I hear you, I OBSESSED over this for a few days. And I still got the first result on Amazon and wasted two days I could have been tinkering or doing anything else haha.
Here's the one I got.
Looks like the price ticked up or I got a deal or something. Definitely get a helping hands or similar device to hold your projects, so incredibly helpful. Can find those at any hobby store or Amazon for cheap too.
A good 40 watt iron will cover most amp building requirements but can be too much for PCBs. I prefer an adjustable temperature iron. PCB work for FX requires lower temps than eyelets for an amp. And replaceable tips mean you can choose the horse for the course. Bigger, wider types transfer more heat.
I use the Hakko. It heats fast, it's consistent and I can get tips at Micro Center, Frys or Amazon.
Weller has be in industry standard for years.Many people swear by the Weller WES51 but I think it is now discontinued and replaced with the digital Weller WE1010NA. I did make due with the lower-cost Weller WLC100 for years, but don't recommend it; the tip was held in by a set-screw and when that got loose a dangerously hot tip would fall out onto my workspace/amp/lap/etc.
I bought this rotary tool by Wen from Home Depot for $35 and it's really good considering the price. There's one with a smaller case and less attachments on Amazon that you could get without much extra out of pocket expense.
I have a Weller WLC100, the tip that came with is is a flat chisel style tip that makes it hard to run the soder on the wire. I haven't sodered in like 10 years and after a couple of attempts I just can't seem to get it to stick. Thats why I'm looking for someone to professionally help me, as I don't know anyone IRL to help me out. The job looks simples but after failing I just be willing to pay someone to do it right.
I'm just about to order my first custom mechanical keyboard (quefrency) and I'm wondering how much solder I'm going to need. Will this kit have enough?
Recently gotten into soldering. Had a very similar kit and used to it unsolder keyboard switches. Burned off a few pads because of the soldering iron. (Luckily I learned how to bridge switches). I bought a better soldering iron from Home Depot this one and no longer had any issues.
In fact unsoldering and soldering felt 10x easier and smoother than the one I got with kit.
I have several. The Weller I have had for more than 13 years. pretty basic and works like a charm. You can get it on Amazon for about 40$.
Yep! I haven't gotten to use it yet (because my parts from TCSS haven't arrived yet), but I got this kit from Amazon for $15.99 and it comes with a soldering iron, a solder sucker, and some solder and it has good reviews.
This is what I've been using for a few months. It's a good little iron, will definitely do for whatever you might want to do. Comes with a kit with a lot basic stuff. Cost is $25 plus free shipping with Prime.
And then you can buy the two Nintendo security bits that will open every cartridge from GB through N64 as well as every console SNES through GameCube. I got one of each on Amazon for I think $6 total.
It's an smd diode. You may have gotten extras with your keyboard. As far as soldering you can pick up a cheap good one on Amazon for 20 bucks
Anbes Soldering Iron Tool Kit with PU Carry Bag,60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Iron,5pcs Tip,Desoldering Pump,Tin Wire Tube,Soldering Iron Stand,Tweezers,Wire Stripper Cutter,2pcs Electronic Wire [link]
I've used that one to solder (and desolder) switches and Mill max sockets on probably 6 or 7 keyboards before I upgraded to one of these
YIHUA 862BD+ SMD ESD Safe 2 in 1... [link]
Listen to me very carefully.
You are not bad at soldering.
You're soldering iron is trash ( probably ).
I really thought i was terrible TERRIBLE at soldering. I had a $10 no temperature adjustment iron, nothing to clean the head with besides wet paper towel, and bad solder.
Ironically if i had done a little bit of effort when picking an iron i would have gotten this one. [link] .
That temperature adjustment makes all the difference in the world.
Between that iron and just the advice of "Solder flows onto what is hot", was enough to make my soldering go from "haha oh god don't look at it" to "haha okay that's not embarrassing and works well enough".
So yes, clearly by this wall of text i am excited for you to experience an iron that isn't total crap. Seriously though heat up the pad and/or the wire first, then touch the solder and it will wick right onto where you're trying to go. For some reason it took reading about 3 or 4 guides before i found that one sentence.
Use 350 to start on the temp, but i've started doing 400 lately.
Lastly, clean the tip of the iron between EVERY solder. if the tip doesn't look nice and silver and shiny it's not going to conduct the heat well and things won't get hot and the solder won't flow where you want and you'll get mad.
Good luck, trust me i have never written more about a $13 product in my life before, enjoy!
This one has served me well. I like the one with a digital readout too.
Helping hands are hard to do wrong, just don't get the cheapestone or one with a bunch of "accessories." The WLC100 is in your budget. It is not true temperature controlled but you can adjust the output wattage. If you can grab a used WES51 from ebay
I'm a fan of the Hakko 888-D. It's a little pricier but she's a workhorse.
This is the best solder sucker in the world.
If your boyfriend does any kind of soldering, he may really like this.
And you can return it if he doesn't need it / or already has one.
I would just get the hakko
I tried to cheap out on irons but it makes everything Take so much longer because it's a lot harder having to work around the limitations of the iron.
You already have to get right how much flux you need, temperature, how much solder you need, and heat time.
You can't have a cold joint but you also can't burn up the board.
Getting all of those right is so much harder with for example what I had and hated, a RadioShack 40 buck iron and a Weller 30 buck iron from the hardware store.
Cheap irons are a waste of time and money
Get that one. It comes with the steel wool in the stand and the sponge. If you need different size tips buy them when you need them, the one it comes with is useful for most places with .1in pitch components
Ah, I did not see it. Well you're pretty much ready to get at it then. If you don't have a good solder sucker: Engineer Solder Sucker
I've worked on xbox controllers for a while so I have quite a bit of kit. I have a soldering station that has a hot air rework station on one side and a good soldering iron on the other. Its also got a power supply that goes upto 15v.
I've been looking at that hakko gun for a while, I will treat myself one day! For now I use one of these Japanese solder suckers, it amazes me every time I use it! [link]
If you don't have the hakko gun I'd definitely recommend one of these 👆
Recently got a microscope with screen and endoscope, that is a game changer, I had been using a jewelers loupe for years! It's all in the kit man
Man it took me 5 minutes. I used this cheap dremel from Amazon. Think about it if you build more. Set of diamond bits was $10.
WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft [link]
After years of using a solder sucker that heats and sucks and using solder wick, I bought one of these ( ENGINEER SS-02 Solder Sucker Desoldering Pump [link] ) and I will never go back. Honestly, the price is about double what it ought to be, but it just works so well.
As for alternative chips, I have no clue. You will have to grab the data sheet and do some Googling.
I personally use the hakko FX888D it’s about $100 but is well worth it. I wouldn’t bother with cheaper irons as you will likely find them more frustrating than it is worth. [link]
I bought this on the cheap and it worked great.
WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft [link]. Multiple speeds. Then a set of diamond burr bits for $10.
I would not recommend harbor freight tools if you are looking for quality. For a soldering iron I use this. It may be a bit more than you’re looking to pay, but it works extremely well both for soldering and for plastic welding.
That's by far the best entry-level iron ($100). The color scheme is quite funky, but Hakko is very much a trusted Japanese company.
There are plenty of standalone irons (iron plugs directly into mains) but they are not as good or as easy to handle.
this a good one to start?
I bought one off of Amazon similar to this [link]
It worked well, but replacing the batteries was more difficult than I thought it would be even after watching hella videos. I ended up just taking my game in to a local retro game shop to fix. They only charged me $5
Guitarpcb is a great site. Aionfx.com is another great site and has kits with everything you need. You can buy inexpensive practice soldering kits on Amazon (don’t get anything that says SMT) and there are plenty of how-to videos on Amazon. It’s easy to learn. Get the best soldering iron you can afford…it will make the process a lot easier. The most you need to spend is $100 (see below) but there are much less expensive ones available to fit your budget…you can always upgrade later if you decide you like the hobby!
One thing to bear in mind is that as enjoyable and satisfying as building your own pedal can be, it’s not necessarily going to save you money.
Not sure about budget soldering irons, but if you are soldering it's probably a good idea to be able to desolder. As such I would strongly recommend not cheaping out on a solder sucker. I recommend the Engineer SS-02.
as Bikersquid said, you'll need a soldering iron. Nothing super fancy but adjustable temp is a plus.
This is the one I use: [link]
Amazon is just the company that sells them. Just get a good brand: [link]
I use this torch and a terpometer. My go to temp is 530-510 so I don't scorch my throat. Cheaper option is to get an IR thermometer.. if you have pets try and get one that doesn't beep lol
ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers [link]
This is the one I use. It’s pretty inexpensive, but works fairly well. If you’re just going to solder every once in a while, this would suit you perfectly.
Aoyue 469 Variable Power 60 Watt Soldering Station with Removable Tip Design- ESD Safe [link]
You don't need anything crazy, I used a Weller 100 for all my modding needs for many years before finally upgrading to the one I'm using now. These units cost around $60CAD