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I did a single room install a few weeks ago that required me to punch a hole up into my attic. I ended up using a box attachment for my oscillating tool: https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical-box-cutout-saw-for-oscillating-multi-tools-56666.html. Makes patching the hole super easy since you can use the punched out drywall as the perfectly sized plug.
You can then use a flexible drill bit to punch into the attic from the hole: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005M29JN0.
My first thought is to give a fish bit like this a try.
I picked up the $15 set of titanium hex drivers off amazon and a precision tool set for like $10. And I picked up a 5.5mm pack of combination wrenches for my kaiju as using the precision driver was tough in a certain spot.
The hex drivers and precision set would have honestly been enough.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071PB4RPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UKD-FbXHA6D6Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP2GGBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_knIPmLPgtIk63
These were what I got.
I've used this cheap kit from amazon to put together a few PCs, do some laptop repair, and pretty much any thing else that didn't require insulated tools or a drill. The bits didn't snap the moment I misused them, so the quality is decent. The included hex/socket(?) is also great for putting in standoffs. The handle leaves a bit to be desired in ergonomics, but you could always buy a more comfortable handle - these bits are a standard size.
edit: fixed link to make automod happy
Do you also use those long flex augers blind?
Get one
Yeah, they're semi-flexible... used for drilling holes in top and bottom plates of walls by way of an outlet or wall switch cut out.
Like one of these.
I had this issue, I was using a hammer drill with a masonry bit, I bought a Tungsten Carbide drill bit and it went through the lintel like butter.
EXACTLY how I do it. I have a flexible shaft bit (4 feet long) for it, but otherwise, exactly the same.
https://www.amazon.com/MAGBIT-MAG-777-inch-Fish/dp/B005M29JN0
The drill bit I linked to has a hole for attaching a cable to and pulling back through the holes
Unfortunately no access.My bracket is too small for 2 studs, so I'm hoping I can just use the middle metal stud to support the middle, then the sides with some dry wall anchors or maybe something like this . https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013YPWIWA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_0XHT6VTMBXAB1PDNXSPX
This Ifixit kit is really good quality https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Mako-Driver-Kit--64-Precision-Bits/IF145-299?o=4 but any driver like this will do the job https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071PB4RPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_B6R9N9E3D9DQTCPFZ7DC
This is the set I've had for 8 years. I mainly use it on phones and laptops though since the screws are smaller. The Phillips that is the biggest works on mb screws which is that big round one near the middle/bottom. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071PB4RPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_AV3D8AK1QZ1ER2J3GPAD
I would recommend just buying something like this if you don't have something similar already which you probably do. It has a #1 and #2 Phillips as you can see. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_9BX1YX1RT8VDMNSNHYF2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
No no no, that one is terrible. You have to go with this one that is much more expensive but it has a little lever on the right the makes all the bits pop up at an angle. I hit that little lever and closed it about 64 times when I first got it. Amazing.
Amazon has this one.
If you have enough room, you could use a couple of rigid extensions. They are usually 16-18 inches long. More than one can be used at a time.
I would also suggest a cable fish pole. They are more rigid than a fish tape and easier to push straight down/up a wall.
Hard to tell from the photos and it will depend on how it's framed. If you're moderately handy, it shouldn't be a big problem though.
This is how it's usually gone for me in the past in my house. I'd cut a section of the drywall out between two studs maybe 18" to 24" high on each floor and then get a flexible auger bit like the one linked below to drill through the floor and celling plates.
Once you have the holes between the floors than it's just a matter of fishing the line through. I usually try to use the auger bit itself to pull the wire back through once I've drilled through the plates/floors. It can get a little tricky if it's an exterior wall with insulation or you pick a bad spot and run into obstacles in the wall.
You'll get some good experience repairing small sections of drywall which in my opinion as a homeowner is always something you want to be able to do.
I took apart and clean to my original day one PlayStation 4 and Playstation 4 Pro with a T8 or T9, usually you can get the whole set super cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071PB4RPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QcbuFb6Q4P8YY
Stuff like this should ideally hit a stud, not be fixed to drywall alone (though uprated anchors like these can do a decent job). The included anchors (at least those in the pictures of the Amazon listing) as rawlplugs that are designed to be used with concrete/block walls - not drywall.
From what I see... you drilled into the mortar between the bricks everywhere. Baby tapcons work in the mortar.
If you want to go heavy...get a masonry set from Amazon. I suggest: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VQPN42W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But go a tad smaller than the drill bit they send you and you should tap tap tap the inserts in.
Again, if you are drilling concrete, get a plastic cover that will cover WIDTH wise drilling, and whats directly below the hole. Drill in, pull out, drill in, pull out the excess concrete. Dont make the hole bigger than it needs to be.
You should not use force because the cartridges afternoon made durable like N64 bricks. I would opt for leverage with a pair of tweezers, by placing the pointed end on the lip of the opening until it catches a little in the cartridge. You should be able to carefully pry it out without crushing the cartridge or warping it further. Good luck. If all else fails, buy a cheap t-series kit for phones and small devices. This is what I have for my Switch and phone repairs
Solved it myself. For any of you spacemen of the future that might be trying to do the same thing to this kind of laptop, here's a little help:
You need a T5 torx screwdriver as well as extremely small Philip's head drivers. This set had everything I needed.
You need to pop the back plate off, first. In addition to screws, its attached to arms that are attached to the screen; all you have to do is wiggle them a little and they'll separate.
Remove all screws except the ones attached to the fans. Those don't need removal.
Open the laptop up partway and press the top plate (the part that covers the keyboard) forward until it just comes off. After that, flip it over as if you're going to use it and carefully lever the cover off to expose the RAM.
The RAM is the chip in the centre, there's only one slot and its filled by an 8GB RAM stick, so you need a 16GB+ stick. The rest of the RAM is soldered directly to the mobo.
Once you're done, snap everything back into place and make sure the rear plate's back on the swivel arms of the screen. Rescrew everything together and you should be golden.
The cheap options, should be good enough for a Pro Controller.
The good option. Probably overkill for just the controller, but this thing is amazing for general use. It has bits very few kits do. The screwdriver is fantastic. If you do other sorts of electronics stuff I highly recommend this kit.
You’ll be fine as long as you use the correct fixings.
I’ve used these and can vouch that as long as the little wings have space to extend, they’ll hold anything.
Grip-It TV Bracket Plasterboard Fixing Kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013YPWIWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_h7ElCb312ARY9
Just get a precision screw driver set from Amazon for $10.
I found this one on amazon if youre looking for a multi bit set. Seems to have pretty good reviews but take a look at the videos. I would buy it myself but i already have a similar set that doesnt see much use. I dont know if my harbor freight one is s2 tool steel though, i know ive bent a couple of the flathead tips. Who knows maybe ill get it.
I found this one on amazon if youre looking for a multi bit set. Seems to have pretty good reviews but take a look at the videos. I would buy it myself but i already have a similar set that doesnt see much use. I dont know if my harbor freight one is s2 tool steel though, i know ive bent a couple of the flathead tips. Who knows maybe ill get it.