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How to make a bong out of a Hennessy bottle:
1/5th bottles seem to work best. Get a bottle, wash it out, and set aside.
Go to a smoke shop and ask for a downstem and bowl piece. Ideally the down stem will be about 6” long. You can go longer/shorter depending on the angle your hole is made at.
Once you have your downstem, take a tape measure and measure the OSD of the glass. (Outside diameter. In my case the OSD was a hair over 1/2”, so I used a 5/8” drill bit)
Once you know the OSD of the downstem, you’ll need to go to the hardware store and get a drill bit that is at least 1mm larger than the OSD of your downstem. You need a special carbide (or diamond in some cases, ymmv depending on where you go to get the bit) drill bit that is intended for going through glass. They look a bit like this.
Drill your hole. ALWAYS WET DRILL GLASS. Always. Do it in your sink with the water running, and drill at about half-speed. It will take some time to get through the glass. The angle you hold your drill at will determine where and how the downstem sits in the bottle. About a 45 degree angle on the glass where I put my downstem works well.
Once the hole is made, rise the bottle out very well, and dry the outside. Put your downstem in the hole, and use some putty to make the air seal.
Pack a bowl, and enjoy ��
Imo the single sets that have everything tend to be cheaper quality. Also it depends on your budget. My go to everyday bits are the Pilot Point Titanium from DeWalt. Use em on anything other than concrete. Amazon has them on sale now for $13 for a 21 pc set.
Let's take a look at my amazon purchases here....ah yes, these are the drill bits I used.
As I was drilling, I was spraying with water too - it was recommended on the packaging, and I just assumed that was what I should do since I did a rock shop in science class when I was a kid :D
I highly suggest a index if you want to sort the bits like the guy above me mentioned. They look like this and you can find em cheaper at hardware stores but its like those block puzzles for toddlers. If it just fits than its that size.
What are you gonna do with the extra boxes?If you are getting rid of them you might want to bang em up on craigslist/facebook for $10. Never list anything free cause the bloodsuckers come out but if you just want them gone listing them cheap and then just giving them to the first person to show up with cash works well.
I said Carbide. I just meant hardened. This will be what you want:
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1361-Titanium-Pilot-21-Piece/dp/B004GIO0F8
You had masonry bits which is something you don’t want for this.
This is what I bought to make some holes in hard ceramic tiles: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GNC8RI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They worked very well. I tested them on a spare piece of tile first, and was surprised how easily they bore in. Good luck!
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West Marine might have them. You can shop online.
One suggestion that may help with this and other projects is a plastic drill bit gauge (they come in metric too)
If you want the screws out, I'd suggest a left-handed drill bit of the appropriate diameter. And for the skeptics, they are real: https://smile.amazon.com/Comoware-Drill-Titanium-Nitride-Coating/dp/B07QKS4Z71/ref=sr\_1\_2\_sspa?keywords=left+handed+drill+bits&qid=1663466260&sprefix=left+handed+dri%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaW...
That's a security pentalobe. It's presence means they don't want you messing with it...so maybe you shouldn't. But if you insist: correct tools.
The reason I asked is the 5 pointed torx bits (on ali) or next day from Amazon $10 for set would probably work out (even if not intended). Included example below ... (remove space between "." and com)
https://www.amazon. com/Ram-Pro-Point-Security-Tamper-Driver/dp/B01IUCONNY
Those are actually some slightly more difficult materials to drill, but you can do it! Both tile and plexiglass are prone to cracking or shattering when you drill, so you'll want to make sure you're using the right bits. For tile, you'll likely want a carbide-tipped masonry bit like this one and they make specialty bits for plastic as well like this.
Take your time, don't press very hard, and let the drill do all the work for you. You may want to start with a smaller hole first, and then move up to a larger bit until you get to the size of your fastener, since taking out more material at once will make it more likely to chip or break.
As for fasteners, since you said you're attaching this to the wall, you'll want to know what the structure of the wall is made of. If the wall is tile, and you're in the US, it's likely drywall or plaster underneath. I don't know about construction in other areas. You'll know it's drywall if you get a white powder coming out of the hole once you're through the tile. Drywall and plaster aren't hugely strong, so you may want to look at wall anchors. There are lots of styles of wall anchors, and they're not very expensive. You'll want to estimate the weight of whatever you're hanging and then double or triple that number to choose your anchors and make sure it definitely won't fall.
Lastly, be careful drilling into a wall, since it's possible there's electrical wires or plumbing hidden behind the wall, and damaging those can be a real problem. Again, go slow, let the drill do the work, and wear gloves and eye protection. You can do this!
Center punch and/or small pilot hole.
In a rough material like OSB its really tough to get an accurate pilot hole - the screw or bit will want to wonder into the nearest crevice in the surface of the wood.
I would suggest trying out self centering drill bits. You stick up what you want to screw in (gate latch or whatever) and the bits will self center in the hole to give you a centered pilot hole. I use them all the time for mounting shelfs and brackets and whatnot, and they work great.
Left handed drill bits all the way. I know they almost sound like a joke... Those things saved the day when I worked for a Harley Davidson service department.
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Cobalt-64-Inch-Assortment-30520/dp/B0002NYBJG?th=1
You have to open the control box under the front foot pad. It's not hard to get to at all, however the screws on the box cover are those stupid 5-point Torx security screws with a bump in the middle so you need specialty bits to open it.
I do a lot of pot drilling. Bosch makes the best ceramic/glass/tile bits I’ve used: BOSCH GT2000 4-Piece Carbide Tipped Glass, Ceramic and Tile Drill Bit Set , silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GNC8RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3FB6T2GFHWZEH2A6X8TD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's going to be a pain because of that low profile flat head. Here's a LH twist drill set that has a 1/16 LH: COMOWARE Left Hand Drill Bit Set, 13 Piece | M2 HSS with Titanium Nitride Coating | SAE (1/16" - 1/4") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKS4Z71/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_28KST7HR43NAP23TK87Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It's hard to tell the thread spec from the pic, but I think 1/16 LH would give you a good shot at a clean extraction. It's possible that the head will break off, but you can disassemble your cooler and twist the threaded shank out with pliers.
which ones on amazon? All the ones I find are rated kinda bad or stupidly exepensive...
I've found these, but I'd prefer.something better, but not the drill hog set at 390$...
Buy this set of left hand screw bits:
Put them in a power drill, put the drill in reverse, and start drilling the screw.
The drill bit will either catch on to whatever is left of the screwhead, of it will just start biting/drilling into the screw, and the friction will unscrew it since the drillbit is grabbing in the counter clockwise direction.
This is what I do when I take apart hard drives. They're usually small hex bolt heads and I'm not gonna get a dedicated screwdriver or the purpose.
I've also used it on stripped laptop screws, and larger motorcycle bolts.
I just drilled some holes with a Vertex frame to a island top that I bought from Home Depot. I got my frame centered on the top and don't forget to account for any peripherals that you plan to attach to the bottom of the desk.
I used this self centering drill bits after I setup my frame and left it as "template". Then it's less measuring to take place and can be used as a pilot hole.
I took the hole drilling a step further and used EZ Lok threaded inserts so I can bolt my frame to my top. It's not necessary but something I chose to do.
The bit-set costs $10 on Amazon.
As mentioned, if you a hot glue gun, it takes 15 maybe 20 mins to fix. I didn't have have a hot glue gun but I had a tube of leftover silicon for caulking my bathroom so I just covered the whole thing with silicon and let it cure for a couple hours.
My nut hadn't fallen out yet but I just did it as a preventative measure, don't need it falling out and shorting my Pint in the middle of a ride. Didn't care about warranty since I had already voided it when I installed my Quart earlier anyway.
I use a special tool, and a technique.
Drill and attach one screw, then the second, and so on.
I use a tool called a Vix Bit, but there are knockoffs now. I have a full set in various sized. They ensure that the screw hole is centered in the hole for the hardware. Here's the Bosch version - https://smile.amazon.com/Bosch-Clic-Change-Self-Centering-Assortment-CC2430/dp/B0000TZX1M
I like this style case
Norseman Drill Bits 44170 Ultra Dex Type 240-UB 135 Degree Split Point Magnum Super Premium Jobber Drill Set (29 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00627C8ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MDWNGKAG4GXKY4X2WY91?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not so hard at all. Just make sure you have all tools 🧰, especially torx star driver bit TS30 (if I’m not wrong) RAM-PRO 9Pc Torx Star 5 Point, Security Tamper Proof, Driver Bit Set – T10, 15,20,25,27,30,40,45,50 – Multifunction Damage/Shear Resistant Hollow Torque Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IUCONNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K6PJ9RJ8W4F6C9B0ZSFD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the only set I own so I’m assuming it was this one. DEWALT Titanium Drill Bit Set, Pilot Point, 21-Piece (DW1361) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GIO0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_T9ldGbKFEARHS
I used painters tape to protect the surrounding areas.
Ordered this left hand drill bit set (reverse bits) and it pulled the stripped hex bolts right out. Note: 2mm bit did nothing. The 4mm bit grabbed onto the bolt and ZIP, out it came.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKS4Z71/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_kJV1FbXZ2EY1B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1