What kind of router did you get? And what is the collett size?
I bought this set from amazon and love it. It's got the basics you will need for starting out. And, as /u/snuffvieh said, get specialty bits as you need them. But get the quality ones, then.
As for a router table, I had a cabinet I made and put a router table top, Number 6 plan on this list on top of it. I took the drawer out of the top of the cabinet and put in a tip out. Not the best of plans, because shavings get caught in there really fast.
It's most likely for a slotting Cutter bit. Used for well cutting slots. Edit. (It's missing the actual blade that goes on it, you can buy them separately if you want)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V2GYC1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_G4ZFYMG9KEB5X3712FC9
Just got stuck in the workpiece—I cut waaay too deep. This is the set, if you're interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KSOOLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UMYhzbHH2WF4G
There seems to be a bigger set on Amazon for $30 now, though.
I bought this MLCS set off Amazon as my starter set:
https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/
It's been fine - I'm now buying better quality bits when I know I need something and I've replaced a couple of these with nicer versions, but for a basic set this has been a good value for me.
This is the one I bought. Has a bunch of good ones but not enough round-over bits. (Side note: I glued the bit chart it comes with on the under side of the lid so I know what is what.) I actually have a Ryobi round over set also. It's decent for light work.
Yakamoz 1/4 Inch Shank 3-Wing Adjustable Slot Cutter Router Bit Set with Bearings | 6-Picecs Slotting Cutting Blades, 1/2 Inch Cutting Depth, 6 Different Cutting Widths https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V2GYC1M/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_HDHRGVPHCQCS7G3TZK1A
I'm new here, so please let me know if this post goes against any rules! I read through them but it seemed like this is ok...
I am working on a large credenza with mitered corners. My mitered corners are NOT GREAT. I would like to route out a a 1/4"x1/4" inch channel on the corners and fill with strips of hardwood, and then do a 1/4" round-over to give it a cool mid-century feel. I believe since I have two pieces of 1/2" ply laminated together, taking out 1/4"x1/4" in the joint will not result in a loss of structural stability. I will be edge-banding the front, if you're worried about exposed plywood edges.
To do so I'm looking at this bit set.
Do you think this will work or am I missing something?
Woodworking is an endeavor that essentially a scalable version of how to skin a cat. You can accomplish a lot with a hand saw, some chisels, and some planes. You can also accomplish a lot with a circular saw and router. It's really how you want to accomplish the same tasks. As you already have a circ saw and miter saw you're already ahead of the game (build a straight edge jig or buy one for the circ saw) I don't have a Jasper brand jig, but I make due with the Milescraft circle jig for my router and it's fine. I have a Bosch 2.25 HP router with a fixed and plunge base. I haven't thrown anything at it that it couldn't handle (just take multiple small passes). It's big enough to take care of most jobs, but not too big that it's unwieldly for trim work. That said, most routers in that horsepower range will work. Routers are pretty simple tools and even cheap ones still spin straight and true.
You can never have enough clamps. New clamps are expensive. Look for sales, shop at harbor freight, or better yet look at CL, Facebook, yardsales, or auction estate sales. If you do buy new, buy pipe clamps and black threaded pipe. They're way cheaper than parallel clamps. also look for a couple of decent squeeze clamps. They're super convenient, however the cheap ones don't have enough clamping force.
In terms of router bits, I have these and they have served me well. You'll need more eventually, but buy them piecemeal for the specific jobs you need them for and look for carbide bits. Freuds are nice, but a little pricy (although not close to the most expensive).
Eventually you'll want a table saw, but that's once you're really committed.
Finally, dust collection and a good mask are really important especially with MDF.
You could use a core box bit like these to make the interior channel then glue the halves back together.
I just searched “cove bit” on amazon and found several up to 1”. Here’s one set
Don't use a template, your box is the template you want to follow. Get a rabbeting bit with a top bearing (i.e., the bearing is on the end, opposite the shank with the cutter in between; here's a Freud set on Amazon). The bearing will ride on the inside of your box's recess, following it all the way around.
The width of the rabbet is determined by how much larger the diameter of the cutter is than the diameter of the bearing. The depth depends on how much you "plunge" the bit using the router's depth settings. Flip the router upside down with the rabbeting bit installed, and raise/lower the bit until the cutter is flush with a piece of your acrylic that's resting on the bottom of the router.
The photo is of the trim along the bottom of a cedar chest. I’m trying to figure out the best way, or safest way, to cut the cove near the middle of the piece of trim. For scale, the piece is 3-1/4” tall. I want to replace this piece as it is damaged. I have figured out how to do all parts, minus the cove. I assumed this was a routed cove around 3/4-1” but don’t have a standard bit in any of my kits this size. Table saw?
Edit: would one of these work?
Thanks for the advice. That’s sort of the way I was leaning but I like to hear feedback that it was a good theory. Had considered a couple more expensive ones but I like this idea better to start out.
So now the question is which set between these two:
Probably a coin flip I guess??
Update:
Thanks for the suggestion. Seems others have also made this suggestion so I went with this MLCS kit:
MLCS 8377 15-Piece Router Bit Set with Carbide-Tipped 1/2-Inch Shanks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wr2SybQJ8VEMY
I saw this set recommend in this sub. I have the same router as you and I've been happy with them.
I got the 15 piece Hitex set for less than $20. They seem to be working fairly well - haven't sent more than 100 feet of wood through any of them yet though.
I assume I'll mess them up sooner or later as I'm starting out too, but it's a pretty cheap set, so no real loss. I literally had bits come loose and fly off the router before I realized that I needed to really tighten up the collet too ...
I bought the router bit off Amazon. $23 (https://www.amazon.com/16-Depth-Slotting-Cutter-Set/dp/B0002TUCRA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471212918&sr=8-1&keywords=router+bit+for+t-molding). It worked great. Just make sure you do it BEFORE you put things together and any screws are added. I learned from my mistake, and it was an obvious one, but those screws can really eat that bit! :) Stupid mistake, and I know it's obvious, but when you're anxious and wanting to finish your project it is easy to overlook! :)
For the entire cut, I'd stand the final board on-end, with a jig attached to provide support for the router on the outside of the board and probably some curved triangles in the corner to help support the router when it's going those curves. Then you use a rabbet bit like this to remove the material and just follow along the board to remove material.
I'm the first to admit that I'm not an expert, but is there something fundamental that I'm missing which would make it impossible to run a router along the inside of a board stood on-end like that, assuming there's proper support to keep the router level and the workpiece stable?
This router bit set. I just got a router this fall, and I haven't used it yet. But I'm really looking forward to its capabilities.
Any opinion on the MLCS router bit sets, such as http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S ? Curious if they're at least reasonable for starting from scratch with...
I minored in Japanese! And forgot all of it...
BUT, it looks like a router bit for cutting t-molding. I have one that I used to build a vidoe game arcade. Here's one on Amazon,
http://smile.amazon.com/16-Depth-Slotting-Cutter-Set/dp/B0002TUCRA?sa-no-redirect=1
I would recommend something completely different from most people here. Since you just bought your first router, chances are, you'll need some time and variety of bits to pay with to get a good sense of what you can accomplish with them. So, my recommendation is to buy a set of reasonably priced bits such as this: http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-6077-Woodworking-Carbide-tipped-15-Piece/dp/B001S2RAWA/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1439734294&sr=1-5&keywords=router+bit+set
The kit will have most of what you're likely to need for now. Then, as any particular bit wears out, replace it with a quality bit. That way, you'll have a bunch of bits you may need in a pinch without having to run to the store, and build a new series of workhorses via replacement.
1) buy a half in router, the 1/4" ones are mostly useless. Check craigslist
2) buy this set of router bits, I don't think there's a better deal out there
3) feed left to right, as you face the edge you're cutting
It's not hard. I use a Makita RD1101 bought used, which I like because the grip allows me to keep pressure on top the the piece I'm cutting.