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I bought an etekcity lasergrip1022 on sale for $10 on amazon and it has adjustable emissivity. It’s currently at $19.99. You just have to look at the table in the manual to get standard emissivity values for typical materials. Or, ya know, google
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013X0NQT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_R9ctAb23NH4M1
Edit: accuracy can be important for laymen, too. I used mine yesterday and found out my pipes were 1 degree above freezing....
For what purpose? You can send a plastic bottle to Ward Labs and they will have results to you in a few days. You can grab a cheap TDS meter on Amazon if you just want to know how the RO system is working.
Firmware hack ftw. 100mhz oscope for 350$. https://www.amazon.com/Rigol-DS1054Z-Digital-Oscilloscopes-Bandwidth/dp/B012938E76/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=rigol+ds1054z&qid=1597796927&sr=8-3
Well, we can't really tell you what the mineral content of your water is but you can tell us with a TDS meter (https://www.amazon.ca/Professional-TDS-ppm-Conductivity-Meter/dp/B01FPG89CE/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=TDS+Meter&qid=1625476265&sr=8-7) Anything that's at least 15USD or 30CAD should be fine. It's actually something I would recommend everyone have and to test your water supply (drinking water) every week or at least once a month because if there is an issue it will show it (some of them will actually let you know if the water is "drinkable" with red/green lights) (PS: completely off topic but if you have tap water and water through your fridge you can actually see when you need to change your filter, and to see how much cleaner your filter makes your water, in my case it lowered the mineral content by a few digits)
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You always have to PH water, the only time you don't PH water is with outdoor grows ina large amount of soil (even then I still ph water if possible). Eventually (in a container) the ph of the soil will change depending on the water you add and the nutrients.
I would make sure you're getting good PH down, but it's kind of widely known that it takes like 3x as much PH down to get the ph down as it does ph up to make it go up. Make sure you're leaving the water for 20 seconds at least (as well as mixing/stirring it) before testing the water. I like to let the water sit for maybe a minute or two between tests and stirring so I can be assured that the chemicals have been evenly distributed throughout the water.
I use this EC meter. Unlike pH meters, the cheap ones are probably generally fine, because the electroconductivity of a solution is much easier to measure with electronics than pH.
I use bottled water and now i started adding some minerals back.
You should get a water TDS meter, i use this one:
TDS Meter Digital Water Tester, DUMSAMKER Professional 3-in-1 TDS, Temperature and EC Meter with Carrying Case, 0-9999ppm, Ideal ppm Meter for Drinking Water, Aquariums and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H578WWT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1H0YPC2JWYF7ZR3SBN7V
My bottled water have 7ppm which i think is too soft, it may not cause scale but it is supposed to cause corrosion.
Water Quality Tester, Accurate and Reliable, HoneForest TDS Meter, EC Meter & Temperature Meter 3 in 1, 0-9990ppm, Ideal Water Test Meter for Drinking Water, Aquariums, etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073713G5F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PRQ4QDXY0ZVKP6QF3CJ8 Save yourself a headache and get this. It will make you a much better grower. You will be able to feed the plant correctly and be able to adjust as needed
The pH of your water can be important for some plants as is the temperature. I imagine you know where to find a thermometer but you can get a cheapo tds meter on amazon for like 15 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073713G5F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Acho que nessa faixa de preço só a Edifier mesmo https://www.amazon.es/EDIFIER-Studio-R1700BT-altavoces-Bluetooth/dp/B00MXY21LW
Strange, your numbers look fine. 1400 ppm run off is a tad high, but shouldn't cause burning... however burnt tips + dark green leaves almost always means you need to back off on the food. EC meters are cheap. I'd order another in case yours is reading low. I've been happy with this one.
are you dead-set on computer speakers, or are you willing to upgrade to something a bit more substantial?
the suggestion I leave often is to get a Lepai amp and the cheapest bookshelves you can find on Amazon. I don't know what online stores Poland has, but I'm assuming you can order off of amazon.de
powered monitors are another option, which combined the simplicity of computer speakers with the sound quality that bookshelves provide. this seems to be a decent pair in your budget, but due to the language barrier, I'm having trouble navigating the german site
Both of those options are way over the stated budget. For under £200 with BT those ones listed look decent. Really the only other option Ive seen that fits this criteria is this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Edifier-R1700BT-loudspeaker-loudspeakers-Built/dp/B00MXY21LW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495722982&sr=8-1&keywords=edifier+r1700bt
Cheaper than the Roth's but wont have all the connection options or likely the same sound quality. I would try the Roth's. If you dont like them you got them from Amazon so easy return.
I've heard a lot on here, and online, it's pretty common for your first batch to die off, the key is if you have babies or the first batch has babies in your water, if the water is in the acceptable parameters that you say, will be born and used to your water and will thrive. I just recently started and my first batch all died I got from my LFS then I orders 10 from shrimp farm .com and it came with 2 extra, and I almost didn't notice it came with like a dozen, must've been born a day or two before shipping or maybe even on the way, baby shrimp smaller than a grain of rice. All of them are still going strong and I have 3 berried females right now. Of that batch I've lost 3 or 4 adults.
Edit: also saw your looking at getting a TDS meter off Amazon. Be selective in what you choose, I got a couple on there I returned because they were giving me extremely adverse / fluctuating readings all the time. You want to make sure you get one that has ATC, Automatic temperature calibration, or something like that.
I got this one and verified it still my school chemistry lab testing their tap water, RO water, and DI water and compared it with their readings and it was pretty darn close.
Professional TDS ppm Meter | Digital Test Pen Combines EC, TDS & Temp (3-in-1) | 0-9999 ppm & ± 2% Accuracy | Quick and Easy Testing For Hydroponics, Ro System, Pool, Aquarium, Spa and Water Hardness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FPG89CE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fNB2AbFRA3C04
It's out of stock right now it looks like through Amazon? May be available through other sellers or sites ?
I got this one off amazon. Haven't really done extensive calibrating but it reads low in spring water and high in my tank water so...it seems good enough to give a ballpark reading.
At this stage, they don't need much in the way of nutes, so the soil is likely too hot. Measure the EC/ppm of the run off. Anything above 500 ppm is too much.
12" for the lights should be fine; they don't need much light when they are vegging. I doubt you are over doing it with 32 W.
If these are not autos, then the ones that are flowering will need to re-veg. This could take a few weeks under 18/6. If you have more seeds, it might be quicker to replant.
Generally it’s 1-3 teaspoons a week per gallon of water but it depends on plant uptake if it’s a recirculating system. To you have an EC monitor? Here is a cheap one I’ve used before Water Quality Tester, Accurate and Reliable, HoneForest TDS Meter, EC Meter & Temperature Meter 3 in 1, 0-9990ppm, Ideal Water Test Meter for Drinking Water, Aquariums, etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073713G5F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_wFDGFb8QPR1P4
You could monitor the actual reading fluctuations and change your variables based on that over visual of the plant.
In general with a smaller tank you may need to flush the nutrient tank once every 2 weeks or month and start with fresh water and nutrients.
The EC reading will tell you the total conductivity of the salts in the water but it won’t tell you what nutrients are there. For instance the plant could be eating mostly nitrogen but leaving some of the micro nutrients. Your ec reading looks fine but if you did the extra step of getting a nutrient analysis test done you’d find that the water has a good ec level but is jam packed with sulfur.
They are reusable, I had one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Accurate-HoneForest-Temperature-0-9990ppm-Aquariums/dp/B073713G5F/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=water%2Bmineral%2Btester&qid=1600387116&sprefix=water%2Bminer&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
You can also get a kit like this which is handy:
No, don't buy a them scope until they've been through a few courses and have a better idea of the direction things are taking. Especially in a time of COVID-19 when who knows what's going to happen next. Even if this weren't the case, students recently enrolled are known to change from one major to another and suddenly, the oscilloscope is gathering dust. If, however, you're bound and determined, then $350-ish gets something decent, 4-channels, 50MHz https://www.amazon.com/Rigol-DS1054Z-Digital-Oscilloscopes-Bandwidth/dp/B012938E76/ref=zg_bs_393269011_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QZPWW1JWTX5SZC2RWJZK
Use time foil or tape even cardboard around the stems. You can plant whenever if you monitor nutrients in water. Get a tds meter keep around 600 or so and plants will thrive.
Here is a cheap one that works well for me. You can plant as many plants as you want as long as they have nuts to eat
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073713G5F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VJkjFb3EE291V
i bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013X0NQT0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$21, works well
lux measurements are worth nothing. spend an extra $60 on a PPDF meter from amazon, this is the cheapest one. if you're gonna spend the next 4 months on these plants, it's worth being able to test that you're getting them the most PPFD possible.
https://www.amazon.com/Light-3000umol-365-780nm-Tester-Illuminance/dp/B09BMR1SMF
since you will be using two lights, any sort of PAR or PPFD measurements of those posted on any websites go completely out the window. those are only accurate with one light. things change drastically with more than one light. it's not as simple as doubling the hight or halving the power or anything.
i would highly suggest picking up a $60 PPFD meter from amazon. at only 200 W you'll likely want to keep the lights pretty close to the canopy. how close? nobody can tell you since you have more than one light.
https://www.amazon.com/Light-3000umol-365-780nm-Tester-Illuminance/dp/B09BMR1SMF/
don't buy that. that measures lux which is not helpful. you need a PAR or PPFD reader. the cheapest one is $60.
https://www.amazon.com/Light-3000umol-365-780nm-Tester-Illuminance/dp/B09BMR1SMF
aim for as close to 1100 PPFD as you can evenly across your canopy.
You really need some way to measure par to be able to know how close to put the light. There are apps for your phone that measure light, and you can buy a cheap bluetooth par sensor on amazon that links to an app on your phone.
if you buy a PPFD meter you can check this yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/Light-3000umol-365-780nm-Tester-Illuminance/dp/B09BMR1SMF
when you're using 2 lights, all the manufacturer published PPFD/PAR maps go out the window. you need to grab a PPFD meter and adjust the lights until your canopy is as even as you can get it.
https://www.amazon.com/Light-3000umol-365-780nm-Tester-Illuminance/dp/B09BMR1SMF
this is what i use and works just fine. this is the cheapest option that measures PAR/PPFD. lux meters are cheaper but you don't want lux measurements.
Or you can get a grow light. I use something like this to measure the PPFD my indoor plants are getting and adjust the lights according to what is desired for plants. Looking up online you should be shooting for a PPFD of at least 300 for pepper plants, closer to 500 or 700 if you want flowers/fruit.
EC, TDS, and ppm meters are different names for the same thing.
I previously used this one, and replaced it with this one when the battery glued onto the cheap one's circuit board died. Those two meters disagree, the new one seems to be much better at taking the temperature of the solution measured into account, and in general it seems much better made. I picked that one because it was what my local hydro store had, but I've been much happier with it, and I can actually replace the batteries when they run out.
I use this cheap 15$ TDS meter. Here’s an Amazon link https://www.amazon.com/Accurate-HoneForest-Temperature-0-9990ppm-Aquariums/dp/B073713G5F/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3OL0NCUTVLY0I&keywords=tds+meter&qid=1665317274&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjcxIiwicXNhIjoiNC4xMCIsInFzcCI6IjMuOTEifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=td...
Get one of these water quality testing PPM meters: https://www.amazon.com/Accurate-HoneForest-Temperature-0-9990ppm-Aquariums/dp/B073713G5F/
According to the EPA secondary drinking water regulations, 500 ppm is the recommended maximum amount of TDS for your drinking water. Any measurement higher than 1000 ppm is an unsafe level of TDS. If the level exceeds 2000 ppm, then a filtration system may be unable to properly filter TDS